The device of a hand mill. How to make a grain mill with your own hands. Crusher assembly: rotor manufacturing

A manual kitchen mill is a modern household design that allows you to easily grind any variety of cereals and grains. To develop a kitchen mill, professional craftsmen use innovative technologies, making work in the kitchen much easier and more enjoyable. Mills are considered the newest devices for working in the kitchen; they are of great value for modern housewives and have already become quite popular in the household appliances market.

Grinding mill

The advantages of this device are difficult to overestimate. So, among the main advantages it is necessary to highlight the following:

• ease of operation;
• the ability to select the degree of grain grinding;
• maintaining maximum nutrients;
• saving time;
• a wide range of.

Every housewife who has a manual kitchen mill in her kitchen will say that using the device is simple and convenient. To do this, you just need to install it on the table. Doing high-quality work on grinding a specific product with your own hands is not difficult. Thus, mills from various companies can cope well with salt, poppy seeds, spices, peas, corn, rice, cereals, seeds and nuts.

It is difficult to argue with the fact that a finished product, ground into powder, cannot be compared in quality to a freshly ground one. This is especially true not only for grains, but also for spices, the main value of which lies in their aroma. Therefore, you should not be surprised that even ordinary housewives, and not just professional restaurant chefs, have become friends with mills. It is noteworthy that there are not so many varieties of mills according to their functional purpose, which cannot be said about their design.

Types of manual kitchen mills

Let's look at the most common types of hand mills that modern kitchen equipment and appliance stores offer us.

• Disposable Mill;
• Manual type burr mill, reusable;
• Electric mill.

A disposable home mill is usually a transparent container made of glass or plastic. It already contains salt, sugar, cinnamon or pepper and peas. The size of the product does not exceed 10 cm. The principle of operation of a disposable mill is that you need to twist the lid, resulting in ready-made freshly ground products. Nowadays, not only a stone home flour mill is available for sale, you can also find elite mills that provide the ability to set and adjust the degree of grinding. Spice grinders may contain one type or a mixture.

Among the advantages of a disposable grinder is a reliable, practical grinding mechanism that allows you to efficiently grind the aromatic spices in the container. Also, when purchasing a complete finished product, you do not need to spend time separately searching for a mill and the required product. This is a great option for people who are constantly busy and value their time.

DIY mill

It is no secret that the disadvantage of such a product is its lack of ergonomics and cost-effectiveness. From time to time you will have to purchase a new flour mill, which can put a significant dent in your pocket. And considering that different dishes may require different spices, your kitchen may be overflowing with a bunch of disposable grinders. You can also notice that the design of disposable mills is very universal and laconic and not everyone likes it.

A manual reusable mill, including a stone one, consists of three parts. It is equipped with a special container into which whole spices are placed, millstones or a high-quality knife, as well as a container into which ready-made crushed spices are placed. These types of flour mills can be:

• equipped with an ergonomic handle;
• equipped with a wheel that must be rotated, or equipped with an upper block;
• universal;
• for a specific type of product, including grain;
• made from a variety of materials, including wood, ceramic, brass, cast iron and plastic.

The main advantage of this type of manual mill for grain and other products is the wide selection of shapes, colors and textures. You can always find an option that best suits your kitchen design. It is noteworthy that this kitchen accessory, including those equipped with stone millstones, often becomes the best present, possessing such qualities as practicality and originality.

It is worth noting that many owners of a manual mill, even if it is a stone flour mill, say that the grinding process itself, accompanied by the creaking of millstones and the pleasant crunch of aromatic spices, has a calming effect. A souvenir hand mill for flour may be fragile, mainly due to the fact that it is equipped with plastic millstones. Therefore, when choosing a product, you should pay attention to the cutting part of the mill. It is best if it is made of metal. Owners of mills with a wooden body say that the design often does not withstand oily seasonings and grains, including garlic, mustard, nuts, star anise, flax and sunflower seeds.

For this product, it is best to choose a mill whose body is made of ceramic or stainless steel. You also need to know that such mills do not provide a choice of grinding degree. It must be emphasized that some of the spices cannot be combined with each other at all, so before grinding the next product, the mill must be thoroughly washed and ventilated. An electric mill is powered by either batteries or batteries. This type of kitchen utensil, like the models discussed above, consists of a special container for spices and other products that require grinding, as well as millstones. Often this type of product has an unconventional design.

The millstones of the mill, powered by electric current, significantly save the time of their happy owner. The electric mill works quickly and very efficiently, easily grinding the required amount of spices. By choosing operating modes for each type of product, the hardest of them can quickly be turned into fine sand. You can choose the degree of grinding if desired: very fine, fine, medium and coarse. If we talk about disadvantages, this model has only one - high cost. Preference should be given to brands that use only high-quality, environmentally friendly materials for the manufacture of kitchen appliances.

Mill for flour production - flour grinder

Particularly popular is a manual mini-mill for grinding grain, which is also called a flour grinder. With its help, you can easily prepare excellent whole grain flour that is good for health, as well as press flakes that are used to bake delicious buns and bread. An environmentally friendly product obtained using a flour grinder retains all useful substances and vitamins. Bakery products made from such healthy flour do not lose their excellent taste and softness for a long time. This hand mill can grind almost any grain.

The reliable mill mechanism, consisting of three stainless steel rollers, like the body, is driven by a comfortable handle. In this case, the rollers move at different speeds, and the distance between them can be adjusted. The mill hopper is made of plastic. On average, to coarsely grind 90 grams of grain, such a product requires only one minute. After passing the resulting flour through the rollers one more time, you need to grind it for two minutes to get a fine grind. A manual stone mill for flour production also allows you to achieve good results.

Thus, such modern kitchen appliances can grind grains and do a lot and greatly facilitate the work in the kitchen. It is worth noting that a natural, high-quality product obtained as a result of processing it through a mill retains all its useful qualities. So, for example, flour dishes made from ground grains will not only delight you with their unique taste, they can also prevent cardiovascular diseases and minimize the likelihood of strokes and heart attacks.

Making a home hand mill with an electric motor. Homemade do-it-yourself mill

Making a home mill with an electric motor

For the mill, I found a faulty electric motor (with a power of about 300...1000 W). The engine was first disassembled. The starter was left unchanged. But with the rotor (Fig. 1) I performed the following operations:

I drilled holes in it along an inclined line with a drill with a diameter of 10 mm to a depth of 7 mm (the distance between the holes is 1...1.5 cm);

I connected the holes with grooves 7 mm wide and 3.5 mm deep using a cutting wheel.

It should be noted that in places where the finished product exits, that is, at points I, grooves are formed especially carefully, limiting the depth to 1.5...2 mm. After all, by setting the depth of the outlet grooves using the selection method, it is possible to regulate the grinding quality;

The top of the rotor is chamfered (with emery);

The rotor is inserted into the stator and holes are drilled or chised in the stator covers to fill the grain and output the finished product.

For the convenience of filling the grinding product into the mill, a loading hopper made of tin is attached to the lid. The dimensions of the hopper depend, of course, on the size of the engine (Fig. 2). A handle is attached to the top of the motor shaft (now mills) (using a pin, a bolt, or (if there is a thread on the shaft) nuts. The design of the handle can be of any kind.

For ease of use, the mill (assembled) is screwed to a board, which is then placed on a bench or stool, where a hole is cut for the flour to exit (Fig. 3). An inverted bucket is placed under the bench (when working) and a container for flour on it. They grind products either by moving the handle back and forth (180°), or by first making five turns of the handle clockwise, and then two...three turns counterclockwise (otherwise the grooves become clogged).

The advantage of this mill is that it is made from readily available waste materials. Disadvantage: low productivity.

So, if you use a 300 W motor for the mill, the flour output will be only 700 g/h. And by making a mill from an engine (I repeat, a faulty one) with a power of 1 kW, the productivity of the mill will increase to 2.5 kg/h. It is clear that the greater the engine power, the larger the size of both it and the rotor, which means the faster the grinding goes. By the way, to increase productivity, instead of a handle, you can try connecting an electric drill to the mill shaft and turning it on at low speed.

Tips for a novice miller:

Clean the rotor once a week;

Add grain in small portions to avoid clogging.

all materials from the “Ideas for the Master” section

Previous publications:

Grinding various grains and preparing feed for livestock and poultry on a private farm, producing corn, oat, wheat and other coarse or fine flour for home baking - all this is possible with the Malyutka micromill, created in Udmurtia by O. Zaitsev and A. Yagovkin. The small dimensions of the “Malyutka” are not a hindrance to the unprecedentedly high productivity of the unit - a bucket of corn turns into high-quality flour in just 5 - 6 minutes, and wheat, oats and similar grain crops - twice as fast.

As for reliability, it is convincingly evidenced by the fact that over two years of operation of the mechanism at full load, not a single malfunction arose.

The design of the micromill is extremely simple, so any DIYer familiar with drilling and turning can make it. And if it is possible to order three main parts (rotor, stator and bearing cover) “outside”, then you can literally assemble the mill “on your knees”, in a home workshop.

For those who decide to do everything themselves, some technological recommendations. The first concerns the manufacture of the steel rotor. It is machined integrally with a shaft of variable cross-section (from round steel or forging grade “45” with a diameter of about 120 mm and a length of 90 mm) in three stages. After pre-processing, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled into the workpiece, evenly spaced around a circle with a diameter of 105 mm. After removing the top layer (grooving to a diameter of 104.5 mm), the working protrusions-teeth open.

The finished rotor must be subjected to heat treatment - hardening and tempering. The technology of this process is as follows. The part is heated to a temperature of 800 - 820 ° C (light red heat color), after which it is lowered into an oil bath (when quenched in water, the part can turn out to be too brittle, and some types of steel are prone to cracking). After hardening, tempering is carried out, for which the rotor is heated to 380 - 400 ° C and then cooled in air. As a result, the surface hardness increases (up to 350 - 400 Brinell units). The quality of hardening can be checked with a regular file - it should slide along the cutting edge of the tooth without leaving a mark.

The stator is perhaps the most complex part of a micromill. As in the manufacture of a rotor, one cannot do without turning and drilling work, and the process of obtaining the part itself is also carried out in three stages. First, the workpiece is pre-processed on a lathe.

In this case, a technological allowance is left on the side of the working chamber, for which the central hole is drilled to a diameter of 70 mm. After this, a circle with a diameter of 105 mm is marked on the workpiece and, in accordance with the drawing, the centers of future holes are marked on it, which subsequently form the working surface of the stator. Then the contours of the upper and lower “windows” are marked. Next, blind holes are drilled to a depth of 28 mm exactly in accordance with the drawing and markings.

After this, the technological allowance is removed on a lathe and the cavity for the working chamber is bored to a diameter of 105 mm. Then, having unfolded the workpiece, bore the seat for bearings No. 203, and also make a groove for the sealing collar, if provided. Practice shows that, in extreme cases, you can do without this design “excess”.

Having finished the turning work, it is necessary to drill threaded holes for installing the stator cover, nozzle, loading hopper and bearing cover. And finally, the stator must also be subjected to heat treatment using the technology described above for the rotor.

The base plate (frame) for mounting the micromill is cut from a steel sheet 6 - 8 mm thick. The stator is attached to it with M6 screws, which simultaneously fix the pipe. The latter, by the way, can be made removable and easily installed in the hole in the frame, which in this case is done locally - according to the actual dimensions of the pipe, which will be held in the hole by friction alone. In principle, the cross-section of the pipe may not be square, but round, and it can be made from a piece of thin-walled pipe with an outer diameter of 28 mm. At the same time, the hole for it in the slab should be round, in accordance with the actual diameter of the pipe.

The loading hopper is cut and bent from roofing iron, followed by soldering the joint seam. This design is quite simple to manufacture, and serves no worse than one welded from a thick sheet. The hopper is installed on the stator using two M6 bolts.

A characteristic feature of the Malyutka micromill is that when the rotor rotates in one direction, only half of the stator working chamber is involved in the process of grinding raw materials and obtaining the finished product. If you rotate the rotor in the opposite direction, then the second half of the stator will participate in the work. The result in the first and second cases is different, since the sizes and number of protrusions in the working chamber on the right and left are not the same. This is what makes it possible to achieve a greater or lesser degree of grinding at the output, changing only the direction of rotation of the rotor.

The micromill rotor rotates on two radial ball bearings, which significantly increases the load-bearing capacity of the unit and the reliability of the entire mill as a whole.

And one more detail: a spacer ring - 0.5 mm thick, installed on the shaft between the bearings and allowing them to move by the calculated amount; in this case, a certain interference appears, adapting the unit to the internal stresses that exist in the rotor-stator mechanisms.

The electrical equipment of the micromill - a capacitor, a toggle switch and a fuse - is mounted on a dielectric plate next to the electric motor. The rotor is reversed by simply switching the capacitor, which, due to the relatively small load on the motor, has a capacitance of about 3.8 μF.

The shafts of the engine and the grain crushing mechanism are located coaxially. The transmission of rotation is carried out by a connecting rigid coupling. To adjust the alignment, there are guide holes for M6 bolts located in the mounting angles. Moreover, for movement in the horizontal plane, holes adjacent to the base plate of the mill are used, and in the vertical plane, holes located on the other shelf of the corners are used.

Before testing the mill, it is necessary to carefully adjust the position of the stator using bolts: the rotor should rotate in it easily, without jamming. After this, the micromill can be mounted on a chair or stool, plugged into the network and filled with grain. Flour will pour out of the outlet pipe into a container placed below.

Rice. 1. Micromill “Malyutka”:

1 - electric motor (from the washing machine); 2 — engine mount (M6 bolt with spring washer, 12 pcs.); 3 — engine support (steel angle 45×45, 2 pcs.); 4 - plate (steel, sheet s6 - 8); 5 — couplers (studs with M6 nuts); 6 — casing (roofing iron); 7 — coupling (StZ); 8 — rotor (steel 45); 9 — bearing unit cover (StZ); 10 — stator (steel 45); 11 — pipe (roofing iron); 12 — stator cover (steel, sheet s3); 13 — stator cover fastening (M6 screw, 4 pcs.); 14 — spacer ring; 15 — fastening of the loading hopper (M6 bolt, 2 pcs.); 16 — bearing No. 203 (2 pcs.); 17 — fastening the bearing unit cover (M6 screw, 3 pcs.); 18 — M6 set screws with locknuts; 19 — handle bracket (steel, sheet s2, 2 pcs.); 20 — loading hopper (roofing iron); 21 — handle axis (M6 stud with two nuts); 22 — handle (wood); 23 — fastening of the pipe (M6 bolts).

2. Schematic diagram of the micromill

Search results have been added to Favorites The listing has been added to Favorites Sign in to save Watched to your account Sign in or Create an account. A bag of flour in a few minutes DKU - Do-it-yourself homemade products With a 1.2 kW electric motor, which is equipped with household mills, it is difficult to obtain satisfactory results.

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Sooner or later, everything forgotten old comes back again. This truth also applies to the home mill for grinding various types of grain crops, which in the past was in almost every home.

A household electric or mechanical mill is an important unit for lovers of a healthy lifestyle and proper nutrition. Using this device for grinding grain, you can obtain flour and cereals from barley, and other cereals, and know for sure that the product is made from high-quality raw materials.

1 Features and types of home mills

The main value of this device is that with its help you can get flour or cereal at home in a matter of minutes. Some models of appliances produce not only flour and cereals, but also flakes and.

It is difficult to determine which one is better; it all depends on the task that the owners set for it.

The flour in the mill comes in different grinds, which can be adjusted depending on need. So, for dietary nutrition, choose medium and coarse grinding, and if you need to get flour for confectionery baking, then set the mill to fine grinding. To ensure that the grinding quality is as high as possible, the grain is loaded into the hopper well dried.

A home grain mill at home is not intended for grinding spices, nuts and sunflower seeds, as the millstones of the equipment clog.

There are two types of home mills:

1. Mechanical device– are distinguished by a lower price and a unique feeling of turning grains into flour. If desired, hand mills can be equipped with an electric drive.
2. – universal equipment capable of handling grain grinding in large volumes. Models with a powerful engine have a grain fraction size regulator, and also grind dried fruits and mushrooms.

1.1 Manual grain mill: how to choose?

A manual type unit is ideally suited for cases where it will be used autonomously from the electrical network or a large amount of flour at the output is not required.

Since the mini mill handle is rotated manually, you should pay attention to the diameter of the millstones: the larger it is, the easier the grinding will be. Good grinding is not possible without balancing the millstones.

The material for making millstones is granite, ceramics or basalt. Products with a granite component are environmentally friendly, durable and reliable. In devices with millstones made of corundum ceramics, the flour is ground very finely.

The external body of manual mill models is made of hard wood (linden, pine, beech) or metal. Wooden is environmentally friendly and can impart a unique pleasant aroma to flour.

2 DIY grain mill

Before you make a mill yourself, you will have to study known drawings and the experience of craftsmen. The easiest to manufacture electric homemade grain mill was created by engineers O. Zaitsev and A. Yagovkin. This mini-device is called “Baby”. With its help, you can grind grain into coarse or fine flour, crushing it into feed for pets.

To manufacture the unit yourself, you need to have skills in working with turning and drilling equipment. If you don’t have your own experience, you will have to order three main components from the craftsmen - a rotor, a stator and a bearing cover. Next, having all the necessary parts on hand, you can assemble the entire structure together in your home workshop.

If knowledge and experience with equipment is sufficient for independent work, then technical recommendations should be taken into account:

Technical characteristics of a homemade mill:

• Overall dimensions (excluding pipe and loading hopper) – 320*160*170 mm;
• Electric motor power – 180 W;
• Productivity – 0.5 buckets of ground wheat and other cereals, 0.2 buckets – corn.
• Number of factions – 2;
• The weight of the device is 1 kg.

As an option for self-production, there is also an electric roller mill. Such a device will grind up to 500 kg of grain per hour, but it is also suitable for cereals for pets and birds.

2.1 Making a grain mill (mukomoku) from scrap materials (video)

2.2 Laboratory mills LZM-1

In addition to industrial and household mills, there is a laboratory grain mill LZM-1, which grinds laboratory grain samples to determine quality indicators.

The laboratory mill LZM-1 is used at flour-grinding, grain-processing and grain-receiving enterprises, as well as in organizations involved in assessing the quality of grain crops. Used at the sample preparation stage to determine the moisture content of grains.

The LZM-1 mill is an electric motor built into the housing. A knife is attached to the motor shaft, which performs the grinding. The upper part of the body is equipped with a plastic cup into which the grain flows. The hopper is closed with a lid on a threaded connection. The device is turned on and stopped using a toggle switch. Start of form

Many housewives believe that high-quality food can only be prepared from natural ingredients. Today, even grinding flour yourself is becoming fashionable. There are household grain mills for this. You can buy the unit or make it yourself.

A grain mill will allow you to obtain a product from raw materials, the quality of which is guaranteed by your own choice. The ordinary machine grinds wheat, oats, corn, barley and other grain crops. The output, at the owner’s request, is flour of any type of grinding, flakes, cereals of different fractions, and mixed feed. The household mill is small in size and easily fits on the kitchen table. At the same time, its productivity allows it to cover the needs of the household. The simplest model with a low-power electric drive processes half a bucket of wheat per minute.

The grain mill operates on the basis of a rotary mechanism. It consists of:

• rotor;
• stator;
• electric motor.

The operating principle of such a mill is simple. The grain enters the mechanism through the receiving cup. Inside it is ground with the help of a rotor and stator. The finished flour or other product is poured through the outlet pipe into the prepared container.

Homemade grain mills come in two types:

1. Mechanical. Grinding is carried out by rotating the handle using your hands or a simple electric drive. They have low productivity. But assembling the mill is very simple and inexpensive. You will experience the pleasant process of turning grains into flour. It is similar to grinding coffee beans in a manual coffee grinder.
2. Electrical. Aimed at processing increased volumes of grain. These grinders are a great option for regular use at home. Models with a powerful motor can even grind mushrooms or dried fruits.

Attention! In order for the “filling” of the mill to work reliably, it is placed in a body made of hard wood such as pine, linden or beech. Wood will add pleasant notes to the aroma of flour.

Preparing to assemble a simple mechanism

The proposed model of a household mill is the author's own. It was developed by Udmurt masters. The length of the case does not exceed 32 cm. The height and width are even less. The mass of the assembled crusher is 15 kg. The mill needs a motor with low power, up to 180 W. A motor from an old washing machine or similar household appliance will do. Basic productivity - 1 bucket of corn or 2 buckets of wheat in 10 minutes. The author's assembly diagram for this mill is shown in the photo. In addition to the electric motor, you will need:

• 12 screws and the same number of spring washers for fixation;
• a pair of steel corners measuring 45x45 mm (for motor support);
• steel sheet about 8 mm thick (for the frame);
• and another one, about 3 mm thick, as well as fastenings - 4 bolts;
• studs with nuts;
• a small iron box for the roof (reception cup) and 2 screws for it;
• rotor;
• stator;

• protective cover for bearings;
• coupling;
• metal pipe;
• spacer ring 0.5 mm;
• pair of bearings No. 203 plus 3 bolts;
• steel handle brackets 0.2 cm thick;
• wooden handle.

Attention! In this mill design, bolts of the basic type - M6 - are used everywhere.

Crusher assembly: rotor manufacturing

To manufacture the rotor along with the shaft, stator and cover for the bearing compartment, you will need the ability to operate a drilling and lathe machine. Before working on the mill, it is important to know the subtleties of the process:

1. The shaft is machined from round steel or M45 forging.
2. The basic diameter of the rotor is 105 mm with subsequent turning to 104.5 mm.

The finished part should be hardened:

• heat in oven to 800 °C;
• cool in oil container;
• heat to 400 °C;
• Set aside to cool at room temperature.

Attention! Quenching cannot be carried out using water; it will negatively affect the strength of the mill.

You can check the quality of the procedure with a file. It should not leave marks on the cutting edge of the tooth.

In the proposed scheme, the rotor rotates on a pair of radial bearings. A spacer ring is attached to the shaft between them. This will allow the bearings to move and adjust to the voltage inside the device. The mechanism will become more reliable and last longer.

Stator and other elements

Making the stator yourself is even more difficult. When turning on the machine, leave a minimum allowance in the workpiece:

• make an opening in the center - 70 mm;
• mark the workpiece based on a diameter of 10.5 cm, mark the locations of future openings, contours
• holes at the bottom and top;
• drill blind holes 2.6 cm deep;
• eliminate the allowance on the wall and cut out a space for the rotor (10.5 cm);
• on the reverse side, cut out a seating groove for the bearings;
• think over and prepare a ring for the seal.

Advice. The stator also needs to be hardened.

Working on machines is the most difficult stage of mill assembly. Therefore, you can entrust it to professionals by ordering parts from them. The stator position is manually adjusted using clamp bolts. The quality of grinding depends on accuracy. The electrical circuit of the mill, in addition to the motor, includes a capacitor (3.8 kmF), a fuse and a switch. All contacts should be closed from direct access.

After a successful trial run, all that remains is to make the frame, secure the apparatus, and attach containers to it for receiving and exiting raw materials. The simplest grain mill is ready.

Have you tried making such a mill yourself?

Homemade mill: video

The smell of freshly baked bread evokes pleasant feelings in every person, especially if it is made from healthy whole grain flour, but it is very rare to treat yourself to such a treat. In stores you can find flour of any grind, but its quality sometimes does not correspond to the high cost. The surest and most logical solution to this problem would be to acquire your own mill, and if, after reading these words, an image of a huge building and massive millstones appeared in your head, we hasten to console you - today you can make a compact machine that will fit in any kitchen. In this article we will tell you how to build a homemade grain mill with your own hands.

Any housewife who wants to feed her family healthy and tasty dishes dreams of owning a mill. The manufacture of this device is not so difficult from a technical point of view, but it will require the master to have the ability to handle turning equipment and drilling tools.

A home grain mill allows you to obtain flour of any grind size - coarse, medium or very fine (depending on the settings). It sounds quite tempting, especially when you consider that the cost of whole grain flour is incommensurate with the costs of its production. If you look at it, whole grain “real” flour is grain that has undergone rough processing without removing the grain shells. They are also known as bran. White flour, on the contrary, undergoes multiple processing, filtration and other procedures, as a result of which, in fact, all useful components are removed. It is logical that the production costs of white flour are higher, but for some reason it is cheaper than “unrefined” flour. This is a clear example of skillful marketing that follows modern trends in a healthy lifestyle. If you want to eat healthy organic food, spend more money.

The grain itself costs mere pennies, so to produce flour at home using a household mill you will spend a minimum of money. The most common model is the “Malyutka” mini-mill. It was invented many years ago in Udmurtia by two engineers. With the help of “Malyutka” you can not only grind grain to the required size, but also make feed for livestock, poultry, produce corn, buckwheat and any other flour. Agree, this is an indispensable device for a family living in a private house and keeping pets.

The dimensions of this homemade grain mill are very modest, but the performance is truly impressive - in just 5 minutes you can grind a whole bucket of corn, and it can handle a bucket of wheat in 2-3 minutes.

Technical characteristics of “Baby”:

• body dimensions without hopper and pipe – 320x160x170 mm;
• capable of producing 2 types of grinding (coarse and fine);
• low engine power - 180 W (high performance with significant energy savings. For comparison, a regular electric kettle or heating element electric stove consumes 2000 Wh);
• productivity: corn – 0.2 buckets/min, wheat, oats and other crops – 0.5 buckets/min;
• rotor-stator chopper, reversible;
• The total weight of the assembled device is 15 kg.

The most important task on which the efficiency and durability of the mill depends is the manufacture of the rotor and stator.

Mill diagram

In the image below you can see a detailed diagram of the creation of the compact Malyutka mill, indicating all the components used. Before assembly, prepare a complete list of required parts.

Parts for assembling “Baby”:

1. Electric motor (you can take the motor from an old washing machine, since little power is needed).
2. Mounting points for the electric motor (you will need 12 pieces of M6 bolts with spring washers).
3. Support for the engine made of two steel angles 45x45 mm.
4. The frame (base of the mechanism) is made of sheet steel 6-8 mm thick.
5. Ties (studs with nuts).
6. Reception box made of roofing iron.
7. Coupling for transmitting rotation of shafts.
8. Rotor.
9. Cover for bearing assembly.
10. Stator.
11. Iron pipe.
12. Cover made of sheet steel 3 mm thick.
13. Fastenings for the cover (4 M6 screws).
14. Distance ring.
15. Reception box fasteners (2 M6 bolts).
16. Two bearings No. 203.
17. Places for fastening the cover for the bearing assembly (3 M6 screws).
18. M6 screws with nuts for installation.
19. Handle brackets made of 2 mm thick steel.
20. Loading box
21. Axle (M6 stud and nuts 2 pcs).
22. Wooden handle.
23. Places for fixing the pipe with M6 bolts.

Making a rotor

The design of the “Malyutka” itself is outrageously simple, so anyone can handle the assembly if desired, but for this you need to be able to handle a lathe and drilling equipment. If you don’t have the skills and you don’t plan to acquire them in the near future, you can order the necessary parts from a turning workshop. You will need a stator, rotor, and bearing cover.

If you want to do everything yourself, you should take into account several technical nuances:

1. Make a rotor immediately with a variable-section shaft.
2. Make the shaft from forging M45 (length 9 cm, diameter 12 cm) or from round timber (steel).
3. Divide the whole process into several parts: preparing metal blanks (in a 105 mm circle, drill holes with a radius of 5 cm at an equally distant distance), removing the outer layer of the circle so that the groove size is reduced to 104.5 mm, and the working teeth are opened, after which the finished The rotor must be hardened.

The rotor should also be hardened correctly: first heat it in an oven to a temperature of 800C, then lower it into an oil container. In this particular case, it is not recommended to cool the metal with water, since it will crack and become very brittle. Then you need to do a vacation, that is, heat the rotor again, but to a temperature of 400C, and leave it to cool at room temperature. The result is a very hard and durable piece that will last for many years. To check whether the hardening is done well, run a file along the cutting side of the tooth - if it slides easily and does not leave a mark, then the hardening is good.

In the Malyutka mill, the rotor will spin on two radial bearings. This will increase the rigidity of the unit and the strength of the entire device several times. A 0.5 mm spacer ring must be attached between the bearings to the shaft - it will allow the bearings to move slightly and will create the tension that is necessary for the unit to adapt to the tension inside the mechanism.

Making a stator

The stator is a little more difficult to make than the rotor, as it requires extreme precision. The work can be divided into several stages. First grind the workpiece on the machine, then leave a small technological allowance. To do this, drill out the opening in the center to 70 mm, mark a circle with a diameter of 105 mm on the workpiece, and mark the central points of future openings. Subsequently, they will create the stator work plane. Markings should be applied strictly according to the drawing.

Mark the outlines of the holes at the top and bottom, and then drill out blind “windows” about 26 mm deep. On the machine, remove the allowance that you left earlier and bore the place where the working chamber will be located (105 mm). Turn the resulting workpiece over and make a landing recess where the bearings will be inserted. You will also need to machine a groove for the sealing lip if you are installing one, but in practice the unit works just fine without this part.

When the stator is ready, you can start creating threaded holes for the bearing and stator covers, the nozzle and the loading box. Finally, the stator, like the rotor, must be subjected to heat treatment using the technology described above.

In order for the grain grinding mill to work properly, it is necessary to correctly and precisely set the stator coordinates. Bolts are used for this. During operation, the rotor should move easily and smoothly, without jerking or jamming. Only when you are sure that all the parts are moving as they should, can you test run the mill. To do this, it must be fixed on a table or stool so that the device does not fall to the floor due to vibration.

Manufacturing of the bed

Another important design detail is the frame, that is, the base plate. To make it, you can use a thick steel sheet of 6-8 mm. The stator is attached to the frame with M6 screws, which will simultaneously hold the pipe. It can also be removable. To do this, you will need to install a pipe in the opening of the base, which will correspond to the diameter of the part. And it will stay in the mechanism only due to friction.

To make a pipe, take a piece of thin-walled pipe with an outer diameter of 28 mm. A product with a round or square cross-section is suitable, and depending on this factor, a hole of the appropriate shape and diameter must be made in the frame.

If you have completed the manufacture of all the above parts, making a loading box will not be difficult. It can be made from iron roofing sheet by bending it to a given shape and soldering the seams. Regular sheet iron can also be used, but roofing sheet metal is much stronger and more durable. When the box is ready, install it on the stator and secure it with two M6 bots.

Before you start creating a manual grain mill, keep in mind that if the rotor rotates in one direction, only the first half of the stator working chamber will be used. When the rotor rotates in the other direction, the second part of the chamber will turn on. There are different numbers of protrusions on both sides, and their sizes are also different. For this reason, the grinding in the first and second cases will be different. This allows you to get coarse or fine flour depending on your needs. All you need to do is change the direction of movement of the rotor.

Installation of electrical equipment

It is clear that force is needed to set all the parts in motion. In this case, it is the power of electricity. Even before you start cutting out the components of the mechanism, prepare the necessary electrical equipment. Luckily, such a simple design doesn't require anything complicated or expensive.

You will need an electric motor, a capacitor of about 3.8 uF, a fuse and a toggle switch. Install the motor on a dielectric plate, and attach the other parts there. To rotate the rotor in the other direction, simply switch the capacitor.

Position the crusher shafts and the motor shaft coaxially. Use a rigid coupling to transmit rotation. In all mounting angles, be sure to drill guide holes for the bolts to adjust and fine-tune the position of the shafts. Also make holes in the frame (base) - they are needed for movement.

All that remains is to load the grain into the receiving box, place the container under the outlet pipe and make your first flour grinding at home.

Not everyone can make such a practical mill, but this task is quite feasible, even if you don’t have turning equipment at home. Below is a video about a grain mill, which clearly shows how to make an alternative design using granite millstones and minimal financial investment:

To make it, you will also need special equipment, but even if you order all the parts in a workshop, the cost of the device will be significantly lower than that of store-bought products.

We told you how to make a grain mill, and we hope that this article will help you make your own flour to prepare delicious and healthy food.