Making a silicone mold at home. How to make a silicone mold with your own hands for epoxy resin What can be made from liquid silicone

The article describes personal non-professional experience!

Silicone molds are used both in production and in everyday life. They are used to make gypsum products, such as decorative stone and souvenirs, in the production of soap, candles, jewelry, and in cooking for creating dishes and baked goods. For some applications, molds are produced from special types of silicone, for example, heat-resistant, for food and others.

In addition to silicone, polyurethane molds are also often used. We haven't worked with polyurethane, so we'll skip this topic.

There are many different silicone molds on sale, but it’s not always possible to find what you need. If you really want to, you can make a silicone mold yourself at home.

There are several ways to make molds with your own hands:

The most accessible way is using silicone sealant. Not the best option, but in some cases it can be useful. The only advantage that can be noted is the availability of sealant. The main disadvantage is that molds made from sealant quickly and easily lose their shape (stretch). In addition, silicone sealant in its pure form is inconvenient to apply to the product because of its stickiness, it takes a long time to dry, it needs to be applied in thin layers and before applying a new layer you need to wait for the previous one to dry completely (about 24 hours). Making the mold takes several days. To prevent silicone sealant from sticking to your hands and to make it easier to apply it to the desired relief, the sealant can be mixed with potato starch. The resulting mixture will be a bit like a thick dough and will be easier and faster to make into a mold. For silicone molds made from sealant, as well as for thin molds made from molding silicone, you need to make a rigid frame, for example from plaster, so that the mold does not deform when pouring.
Acrylic sealant is not suitable for making molds!
Use of silicone compound for making molds. It is a set of liquid silicone and a catalyst (hardener). The principle of operation is simple - 2 components are mixed in certain proportions and the resulting mixture is poured into the object from which the mold needs to be removed.

To fill the product, you need to make formwork around it. It can be made from anything: plasticine, plastic, wood and even CD boxes, the main thing is that it does not leak. Easy to seal with a glue gun.

The product itself does not need to be treated with anything (if it is not made of silicone) - silicone practically does not stick to anything and the mold is easily removed.

If the molded object has reverse angles or you need to make a 3D mold, you may (depending on the brand of silicone) need to make a composite mold from several parts. To do this, you must use a release agent.

The silicone must be poured in such a way that the molds can be smoothly joined together; for this, there must be holes in the first part and protrusions in the second. For this we used glue sticks from a hot-melt glue gun: the rods were cut in half and secured at the bottom of the formwork around the object being poured, before pouring the next layer, we remove them and cover the entire surface of the resulting part of the mold with a release agent so that the second layer does not stick to the first.

The photo shows a form made from Pentelast 710 after 45-50 plaster pours.

There are many varieties of silicone compounds, we only had the opportunity to work with 2 of them: Pentelast 710M and Pentelast 718. Both of these compounds are made in Russia and are available in 1 kg packages, and they are also among the cheapest.

Pentelast 710 M differs from 718 in its greater fluidity and longer reaction time with the catalyst (remains fluid longer). When cured, 718 is a little harder, no other differences were noticed.

Mix silicone with hardener strictly according to the instructions, quickly but carefully, so that
minimum air bubbles. If you add less hardener than necessary or mix it poorly, the silicone will remain in a “thick sour cream” state; if you add more, you may not have time to fill the mold.

After 24 hours, the resulting form can be used. These silicones are not the best in terms of strength, so for objects with reverse angles it is better to make composite molds. Unlike some ready-made commercial molds, which are initially cut to remove the resulting products
and do not tear when you stretch them, forms made from the above-described compounds will easily tear at the cut site. They stretch well without damage and you don’t have to worry about the shape breaking if you do everything carefully. We use these molds to cast souvenirs and figurines, and they can also be used to make soap.

Molds made from these silicones cannot be used for culinary purposes and polymer clay cannot be baked in them in the oven. There are special silicones for these purposes. They are also not very suitable for making decorative stone; for this it is better to use either molds made of more durable silicone or polyurethane.

Old and unnecessary molds can be used by adding them when making new ones; to do this, unnecessary molds need to be cut into small pieces.

To make composite silicone molds, it is imperative to use release agents.

By the way, the release agent has a shelf life of 6 months (indicated on the label), but it performed its functions quite well after more than 2 years
from the date of production. One bottle lasts a long time; you need to apply it in a thin layer.

Although we are describing here methods for making molds at home, it is still undesirable to do this at home, because the catalyst is toxic and stinks very strongly, and the sealant also does not have the most pleasant smell. All work must be carried out in a well-ventilated area. As a last resort, you can use the balcony (like us :)).

In construction, molds are often used to produce various products and products. The most basic of them are polyurethane and silicone. It is possible to pour not only gypsum and concrete into them, they are also used to make artificial stone. All this can be done with your own hands. Even if it seems that you need to have some knowledge, this is a misconception. This article will tell you in detail how to make a polyurethane mold, a mold for pouring plaster, silicone, a mold for pouring plaster, concrete. He will also teach you how to make your own matrix for producing molds from silicone or polyurethane. The most important thing is to understand how to build, according to the rules, a practical template for a matrix that is suitable for materials such as polyurethane, molded plastic and silicone.

Unnatural stone, at the present time, is a good, profitable business. To open your own business, with the prospect of further growth, you do not need a lot of cash investment. Unnatural stone can be easily made with your own hands using all technologies. But first, it is important to have a room with a suitable temperature so that work can be carried out year-round.

The production of unnatural stone requires good, high-quality forms, which cannot be obtained without a matrix. The manufacture of a matrix sample must be approached very responsibly, because the strength of the final product depends on it.

Some people consider the process of making artificial decorative stone at home impossible. But thanks to desire and desire, everything becomes possible. It is better to have good quality materials and combine them with some additives. For example, the setting time of silicone and its fluidity can be adjusted using catalysts.

It is quite achievable to produce a matrix for the production of silicone and polyurethane molds with your own hands, with the help of which the casting process itself will be possible. To make a matrix, you need to purchase or find a sample from which it will be possible to copy or produce forms identical to the presented model.

If it comes to non-natural stone, then in these circumstances the sample must be of perfect geometric shape, without cracks and possible deformed corners. Most often, a variety of raw materials are used to produce polyurethane forms, to create non-natural stone or a sample for the production of stone forms. For example, plaster, drywall or foam. Sometimes they come to the method of copying from non-natural or gypsum stone, but the ideal option is considered to be a sample made from natural stone.

To do this, take a natural stone, cut it into thin plates (about 1 cm) and glue it together with glue. The stone must acquire an impeccable geometry in all respects. If there are uneven sides or protrusions, then a grinder and a machine will come to the rescue, which will level or remove all unnecessary parts. The finished stone with any irregularities removed is ready for gluing.

Stage 2. Production of a matrix for creating molds from polyurethane or silicone, formoplast, liquid plastic

The created model needs to be glued onto some kind of base in order to make a matrix from it. An excellent option would be to use chipboard as a stand. The finished model must be glued to the chipboard using silicone sealant. But this can only be done on the glossy side of the stand.

For gluing, silicone sealant is taken and applied to the back side of the prepared model. All edges and corners are thoroughly covered. When turning the stone over, press it firmly against the chipboard tray. Next, use a spatula to carefully go over the joints, making sure that all air bubbles disappear. There is no need for excess air when filling with polyurethane or silicone. After covering, the workpiece should be left until completely dry. After this, it is time to build the sides for the matrix. The height of the walls must exceed the height of the glued stone. The material for this can be plastic, steel or duralumin corners. At a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the finished model, the corners need to be screwed to the chipboard around the entire perimeter using screws.

It is important, after screwing, to carefully go through all joints and corners with silicone sealant, once again double-checking the reliability and tightness of the structure. Otherwise, fluid polyurethane or silicone, which has the ability to penetrate even the smallest cracks, will leak out of the matrix. In order for all the material to dry thoroughly, it is better to leave the matrix to dry (about 12 hours). It is recommended to use silicone sealant for aquariums. Its main feature is the elimination of shrinkage or cracks that often appear after drying. A matrix treated with such a sealant will last for many years without problems.

After making sure that the almost finished matrix is completely dry, the next step is to lubricate it with a specialized separator. This mixture can be purchased at any construction stores. Almost all of it has a wax base, and differs only in the manufacturers. The best separator is English. After application, it dries completely, dissipates, and after just a few hours, polyurethane, formoplast, gypsum or silicone can be poured into the prepared matrix. Any compositions used to create forms are suitable.

Stage 3. The rule for pouring polyurethane into the matrix when making a polyurethane mold

Firstly, you should decide on the choice of the substance itself. For example, if we are talking about non-natural stone, then it would be correct to make molds from polyurethane. And so, it is allowed to fill with any material adapted for such work. Large factories and enterprises use specialized equipment that makes the task easier. But you can fill the mold with your own labor. How to do this correctly?

There are unnatural stones with different numbers of angles. This stone looks beautiful and is very popular. For him, polyurethane form is the best option. It is convenient and practical, easy to clean and will not create any unwanted errors. The pouring process is a delicate matter and here you need a table or some other object that will be clearly level. Ready-made silicone or polyurethane (manufacturers themselves write how to prepare it on the packaging of the material) should be poured in in a slow stream, avoiding the ingress and formation of air bubbles. In this case, it is important to tilt the matrix slightly to one side.

When the solution reaches the bottom wall of the matrix, the entire structure can be lowered and the pouring of material can continue. Left for a day, the matrix will harden and take a suitable shape.
Once completely dry, the matrix is ready for disassembly. It is too early to use it for the production of artificial stone. For better fixation, it is advisable to leave the product in a warm place for some time. This is necessary so that the form has no unevenness on the walls or surface. This is especially true for polyurethane, since this material has memory and, if you bend it and leave it like that for a short time, it will remain that way. By standing in a warm room, such forms will have a longer service life, regardless of what solution they will be filled with.

Also read:

Somewhere a couple of months ago, I got caught here this video is on YouTube, where a man made a mold from gelatin and glycerin. I really liked the video, especially because all the components of this recipe are easily accessible and not very expensive, at least for small volumes of forms. The video itself, although in bourgeois language, is nothing special to delve into; it was enough to hear fifty-fifty, after which it became clear how much glycerin and gelatin should be mixed. Therefore, I decided to try to repeat this recipe for homemade silicone or rubber, whichever is closer.

At the nearest pharmacy and grocery store, several vials of glycerin and the same number of packets of gelatin were purchased. Here everything will depend on the size of the mold; if you want to make a mold for something large, then accordingly you will have to purchase a little more of all these components.

Mix everything approximately 50/50, that is, by eye. Experimentally, I found out that if you pour more glycerin, the mixture turns out to be more liquid and fluid. But if there is not enough glycerin, then this gelatin paste will stretch like drying Moment glue and at the same time it is difficult to stir even in a water bath, let alone pour it into a mold with a part that has complex detailing. In general, 50/50 seems to be the best option. I have not tried adding glycerin more than twice (to find out the limit at which the mixture would remain strong and not sticky after hardening).

It’s ideal to heat the whole thing in a water bath, because you don’t have to control the temperature, but you don’t always have access to a gas stove, so for now I made do with an ordinary candle. The main thing is not to let the gelatin boil, otherwise it will start to burn and smell terrible, as if you were frying some kind of animal carcass :-) I heated and stirred this substance for about 10 minutes so that the mixture was homogeneous and without any lumps. There in the video he heats the whole thing in the microwave, but in order not to look for dishes for it and not to conjure with the required heating time, for now he decided to make do with ordinary heating over an open fire.

I tore this glass crystal off the chandelier for the duration of the experiment. I also bent a mold from a strip of plastic to a size slightly larger than this stone.

I poured a little of this silicone into the bottom of the mold and left it to cool to make something like a base for a stone. I decided to do this so that the thickness of this rubber would be more or less uniform on all sides of the crystal. Otherwise, if the mold is thin, it will not hold the desired shape well, moreover, it may tear when the prototype is removed from it.

After that, partially dip the crystal into a bowl of gelatin to get rid of air bubbles from the bottom of the stone. Then we quickly transfer this pebble and place it on the bottom of the mold, along with the gelatin stuck to it, as if gluing it.

Now the simplest thing is to fill the form with gelatin to the edges of the formwork.

What's good about this homemade rubber is that it hardens literally before your eyes, as soon as it cools down you can cut it. There is no need to wait a week for this form to set completely, as is usually the case with acidic construction silicone. After the mass has cooled, unwind the plastic from this cube.

We make a cut at the top and carefully remove the glass crystal from our mold.

Then mix and pour epoxy resin into the mold.

The epoxy resin casting no longer came out of the mold as easily as the glass prototype. Therefore, I had to carefully cut the mold in a circle and tear it apart so as not to scratch the epoxy crystal with a knife. I don’t know yet what this is connected with, but the casting turned out cloudy and not transparent. Either the presence of water somewhere in the gelatin mass is affecting it, or something else. On the other hand, if you cast something colored in the mass, then it will no longer have much significance.

Also, purely for the sake of experiment, I tried to cast a fragment of this stone, but from plaster (alabaster). The results were disastrous. Gelatin begins to absorb water from the gypsum and as a result, at the end we get a sticky plaster stone and a form spoiled by water. Maybe something rough and without much detail can be cast from plaster in a gelatin mold, but then you will have to somehow clean the surface of the plaster cast from fragments of sticky gelatin.

In general, I liked the fact that this homemade silicone mold allows you to make castings from epoxy resin. While there is a lot of fuss with acid (assembly), and aspic is still expensive. Another positive feature of such gelatin forms is that they can be adjusted with a hot spatula, that is, if there is an unnecessary hole somewhere on the form, you can simply cover it up by melting a fragment of this gelatin mass in a spoon. You can also easily melt and refill old molds into new ones. I remember how much I tinkered with this radiator, although with the help of this gelatin mold, it could have been copied even faster and with better quality. Of course, there are also disadvantages: this mold is afraid of water and temperature (it melts), so if excessive heating occurs in a massive epoxy casting, the mold may simply float along with the resin.

Afterword 1

After some time, I tried to polish this epoxy crystal to find out exactly whether it was cloudy in bulk or only superficially. I also created a separate page about hand polishing epoxy, in case anyone is interested. The results of polishing, of course, were not particularly impressive, because I had never really polished the resin myself. But some shine still appeared on this pebble, this is especially noticeable in the video that I added at the end of that topic. In general, epoxy castings in gelatin molds turn out cloudy only on the outside, at least for me, so keep this in mind if you want to cast something in such a mold.

Silicone rubber is an indispensable material for many areas of life. Silicone molds are used in cosmetology and the culinary field, in the creation of any kind of jewelry, decor and cosmetics, etc. We will talk about the main properties of silicone rubber, and also provide ways to independently create molds from this material.

Molding polymers

To produce a universal material, nitric acid is used, which is added to quartz chips to dissolve it. Then the catalyst is added. The finished composition is similar in consistency and appearance to rubber. The material is safe, does not emit harmful substances, and is not affected by alkalis and acids. The completed material has a number of quality properties: plasticity, resistance to mechanical stress, moisture resistance, and no shelf life. Finished products do not require special complex care.

Compounds, which include two main components - a paste and a hardener, are classified according to the purpose of use as follows: coating, pouring, and mold-making compounds. Such compositions make it possible to independently produce almost any shape, up to samples for the production of paving slabs.

To harden the composition, special catalysts are used - tin or platinum. The catalyst provides the material with a number of properties: temperature resistance, strength and hardness, the ability to quickly harden, long service life, and resistance to active use. The shade of the future rubber will also depend on the hardener - whether it will be matte or transparent. Tin hardeners provide higher strength values. Platinum catalysts create more flexible and softer products.

The use of homemade polymers

Compounds are widely represented on the market, however, there are craftsmen who prefer making products with their own hands. This not only reduces costs, but also provides an additional opportunity to express yourself in creativity.

Creating silicone for molds with your own hands can be done using several technologies. The substance prepared in this way is not identical in properties to the factory samples. Homemade compositions may be inferior in quality to industrial ones; they can only be used for home crafts.

Before starting the process of creating silicone, it is worth stocking up on a container or box to work with. Assembly boxes make it easy to remove the part from the case. There should be no gaps in the container design, since elastics tend to leak out.

Before placing the material in a box, it must be covered with a separator - quite greasy or soapy. If you plan to make a matrix for a vertical product, it needs to be secured to the bottom of the container, using plasticine for adhesion. Next, the manufactured compound is poured around the part. The material must be poured in a thin stream until the figurine is completely covered inside the container.

First recipe

Preparation. First you need to prepare all the “tools” - a small container, a spatula for stirring, a container for pouring and a template figure, a copy of which you want to receive as a result. You will also need glycerin and gelatin in equal proportions; they must be melted in one container in a water bath, stirring regularly. Melting occurs within 10 minutes; You can't let the composition boil.

Now you can proceed directly to manufacturing. The bottom of the container (cardboard or wooden) is filled with the prepared composition. Next, the figurine needs to be placed in silicone and immediately pulled out, and then promptly transferred to a container. The template souvenir is attached to the bottom; You must immediately pour the hot mixture into it, completely filling the container.

The silicone hardening process occurs in a matter of minutes. After the material has completely hardened, the resulting form is released from the container and its bottom is cut off. Then you can remove the figurine. The empty space of the workpiece can only be filled with epoxy resin.

Disadvantages of the recipe:

The resulting workpiece is unsuitable for further work with gypsum, since it does not repel moisture;

It will also not be possible to make soap - the mass tends to melt;

The product is not designed for long-term use; it quickly loses its appearance and properties.

Second recipe

Preparation. You will need: construction sealant and starch. It is also worth preparing the figurine immediately. The shape you will receive is quite hard and will have a sunken depression, so in this way you can only create a one-sided product.

The process itself takes place in several stages:

The working surface is sprinkled with anti-stick starch;

A little sealant is poured into the center of the table;

The sealant is sprinkled with talcum powder or starch and quickly mixed; the material should not stick in the end;

The material is formed into a small, dense cake, the size corresponding to the future product;

Quickly, while the sealant has not yet set, you need to press the template figure into the mass;

The silicone must cure for at least 24 hours;

Now the workpiece can be dried in the oven.

Advantages of this method:

Possibility of reusable sample use;

High temperature resistance;

These molds allow you to work with a hot soap base.

Among the disadvantages are the need to work very quickly, since the working mass sets quickly, as well as the strong unpleasant odor of the sealant.

How to make silicone with your own hands at home. And how to make liquid silicone for molds with your own hands. Today in a video clip I will show you an interesting recipe. Also, in my opinion, this is a truly unique material. It allows us to create useful things for fishing. I won’t reveal all the cards for now, but I will demonstrate something very important. I want to tell you the technology of how to make silicone with your own hands. As practice and experiment have shown, this material is suitable for making silicone baits.

How to make silicone and how to make silicone baits will be discussed and I will clearly draw your attention to the nuances. Silicone for baits is different. We have the opportunity to independently give it hardness or softness. Thanks to the two components gelatin and glycerin, the strength increases. Let me give you an example: the more gelatin, it is possible to make strong baits for fishing. Useful homemade products for fishing are easy to make.

A huge advantage when I show how to make silicone is that I don't inhale dangerous fumes. The product is absolutely one hundred percent environmentally friendly. Which is a great achievement. In a nutshell, let's talk about how to make silicone. To do this, we need three components: gelatin, glycerin, and petroleum jelly. To prepare, pour in twenty grams of glycerin and add the same portion of gelatin. Add a couple of drops of Vaseline oil to this amount. Then leave for about an hour. So that everything is saturated and becomes a homogeneous mass. And finally, on the stove we dissolve and turn everything into a single mixture.

You see that the question of how to make silicone with your own hands at home is very simple. Even a child can handle this. Silicone has physical properties. It can be used to make molds, models, baits, and toys for children. Silicone also has minor drawbacks. It dissolves in water. But for some this is a big plus.

A frequently asked question is how to make silicone baits. DIYers, in my opinion, first you should try the version of the presentations in the video. And soon switch to branded plastisol: https://vk.com/silikon_pjaterka

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How to make silicone at home - method 1

White Spirit;
pipette, spoon, plastic glass;
acrylic paint;
liquid glycerin;
silicone sealant.

All components are mixed in the following proportions: for 30 grams of sealant, take 150 grams of white spirit, 1 drop of paint and 3 drops of glycerin.

Place the sealant in a plastic cup.
Add the specified amount of paint and glycerin. If you don't have a pipette at hand, you can use a straw.
Add white spirit.
Stir the solution until it becomes homogeneous (no paint should be visible).
Ready. You now have about 5 hours to use this silicone before it hardens.

How to make silicone at home - method 2

To make silicone you will need the following components:

ethanol;
liquid glass.

Sequence of actions when preparing silicone:

You need to prepare a suitable container in advance and create working conditions. The container can be any. Pour ethyl alcohol and liquid glass into it in equal proportions. Mix the ingredients with any tool (wooden stick or spoon). When the solution begins to thicken, it can be brought to the desired state simply by rubbing it with your hand. A white dense mass forms in the container, which after some time will become similar to plasticine.
The required shape needs to be sculpted only when the mass begins to harden. There will be no problems with this, since the substance will be plastic and soft, similar to rubber. Once you have the desired shape, set it aside until it hardens completely. The silicone will harden and the mold will become less susceptible to deformation.

How to make silicone at home - method 3

Add 3 tablespoons of silicone sealant and the same amount of potato starch to a plastic cup. The resulting solution must be stirred for 7-10 minutes. When the silicone begins to easily come off your hands and knead well, you can begin making the mold, which is very simple.

How to make silicone at home - method 4

Buy several packets of gelatin and the same number of vials of glycerin. The quantity depends on the size of the mold. Everything is mixed “by eye”, approximately 50/50. Try not to violate the proportions: if there is little glycerin, the mixture will be liquid, and if there is too much, it will stick like glue. 55/50 is the best option.

All this needs to be heated in a water bath, but an ordinary candle will do. Your main task is to prevent the gelatin from boiling. Otherwise it will start to stink a lot. You need to heat and stir the substance for about 10 minutes until you get a homogeneous mixture.

How to make silicone at home - copying an object

Prepare a mold that is slightly larger than the item you are copying. Pour some silicone into the bottom and leave to harden. This will be the basis for the item. The thickness should be at least 1 centimeter so that the “rubber” reliably envelops the object from all sides. If the mold is thin, it will tear when the prototype is removed or will not hold its shape at all.

Partially dip the prototype into a bowl of gelatin to remove any air bubbles. Quickly transfer the item and place it on the bottom of the mold, gluing it down. Fill the mold completely with silicone. Homemade resin from the 4th method hardens very quickly - before our eyes. Immediately after cooling, disassemble the mold. Make a cut and carefully remove the prototype.

Mix and pour epoxy resin into the mold. The frozen casting is quite difficult to remove, so you will have to cut the silicone in a circle or completely tear it apart.

Getting rid of silicone

Wash the surface using any detergent designed for grease. You may also need a piece of pumice and a knife to get rid of the silicone. The hardened silicone is cleaned off with a knife, and all its remnants are removed with pumice. This method is only relevant for non-scratch surfaces.

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Types of silicone and master models

Of course, when purchasing material for making molds, you should first of all pay attention to its technical characteristics. Today, only two main types of silicone are produced: coating and filling.

For both materials, master models made of metal and wood, as well as plastic, cardboard, or even just paper can be used in the manufacture of forms.

Coating silicone

This variety is very suitable for making molds. This is a very viscous silicone, applied to the master model with a special brush. An example of such a material is the heat-resistant auto sealant ABRO

Potting silicone

It is also a good material for making molds. When using it, the master model is installed in the flask and poured from above. Liquid silicone for molds of this variety consists of two components: a hardener and a base. Before pouring, they are thoroughly mixed and then placed in a vacuum chamber to remove air bubbles. A very popular material of this type is, for example, Pentelast-708S.

Elongation factor

What characteristics can be considered the most important when choosing a material such as liquid silicone? In principle, almost any variety of it is suitable for making molds. However, it is still worth paying attention to some indicators when purchasing. The most important parameter characterizing the quality of silicone is the elongation coefficient. For modern materials this figure ranges from about 200-1300%. The higher this number, the more the hardened silicone can stretch and the greater the number of castings a mold made from it can withstand.

In practice, 700-800 percent one- or two-component liquid silicone is usually used. It is usually ideal for mold production. Products made from material with this elongation coefficient can easily withstand up to 80 castings. This figure may be smaller or larger, depending on the complexity of the master model configuration.

Silicone viscosity

This is also an important indicator that has a huge impact on the quality of the finished form. Pouring liquid silicone for molds has a very low viscosity. During operation, it easily fills the smallest recesses of the master model. Therefore, it is advisable to use it for the manufacture of molds of very complex configurations.

Viscosity is measured in CPS. For potting materials this figure usually does not exceed 3000 CPS. For comparison: water has a viscosity of 0 CPS, sunflower oil - 500, honey - 10,000.

Other indicators

In addition to viscosity and elongation coefficient, when choosing silicone you should pay attention to:

Work time. The higher this indicator, the longer the material retains its viscosity.

Polymerization time. This characteristic is also quite important. It shows how long it takes for the poured form to reach the stated elongation factor.

Two-component liquid silicone for mold making typically takes longer to harden and polymerize than it does when viscous. This can be attributed to the advantages of the material. After all, when working with it, the master does not need to rush anywhere.

How to use

Liquid silicone is used to make molds as follows.

The master model is fixed to the stand with a drop of superglue and coated with a special release agent. At home, this could be, for example, Vaseline or machine oil.

The stand with the model is fixed in the flask. The latter can be made from almost any material: wood, plasticine, plastic, etc. Disposable flasks are made of paper. Its height should be twice that of the future form. The fact is that during the vacuumization process, silicone foams very much. One of the walls of the flask must be removable.

The evacuated compound is poured into the flask in a thin stream. This is necessary to ensure that as little air as possible gets into the liquid material.

The flask is placed in a vacuum installation for 1-2 minutes. Repeated processing is necessary in order to remove absolutely all the air from the silicone that got into it during pouring.

The form hardens in about 5-6 hours. The final polymerization occurs after a day or three. At the final stage, the mold is removed from the flask and cut in half. After this, the master model is removed from it.

Viscous silicone molds

In this case, a slightly different technology is used. A mold is not used in the manufacture of silicone molds. The master model is simply coated with the material using a special brush in several layers (2-3 mm each) with intermediate drying for 2-3 hours.

Liquid silicone for molds: price

The advantages of this material include not only the ease of making molds. It has earned great popularity due to its low cost. The price of high-quality silicone can range from only 450-750 rubles.

In specialized stores or on the Internet, you should look for silicone intended specifically for making molds. The fact is that today a variety of types of this material are produced. For example, liquid fishing silicone is sold. It is used to lubricate braided threads on gear, which extends their service life and increases casting distance. Such silicone, of course, is not suitable for making molds.

How to make at home

In order to make liquid silicone for molds with your own hands, you need to buy ethyl alcohol and liquid glass. You will also need a plastic bottle and a wooden stick. Since silicone components are quite caustic materials, you should wear thick rubber gloves on your hands. The manufacturing procedure itself is as follows:

Liquid glass and ethyl alcohol are poured into a plastic bottle in equal parts.

The mixture is thoroughly mixed with a wooden stick.

After it thickens, it needs to be removed from the bottle and thoroughly kneaded with your hands.

Silicone prepared in this way resembles plastic, sticky rubber and can be made into any shape.

Silicone molds for the oven

Of course, environmentally unsafe materials cannot be used to make such castings. In this case, liquid silicone for molds is made a little differently:

Three tablespoons of potato starch are poured into a yogurt cup.

Pour silicone sealant there in the same quantity.

Mix everything for ten minutes.

From silicone prepared in this way, you can easily make a simple baking dish. Before pouring the dough, it must be coated with vegetable oil.

Using silicone molds

So, liquid silicone is often used to make molds. The use of products made from “starch” material allows you to bake original pastries, cakes, etc. But how are molds made from ordinary silicone used? Most often they are used to make beautiful products from various kinds of two-component fillings. Any large items are usually not made using silicone molds. Therefore, ordinary medical syringes are used to mix the components of the fillings at home. Next, they are tinted with a drop of dye and poured into the mold through the injection hole stretched by a spacer.

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What is needed to make silicone

The following materials are required:

Before you start making a rubber-like material, you need to ensure safe conditions. The work must be carried out with rubber gloves, because this material itself is very toxic.

It is also necessary to choose the right place to carry out the work. The room should be good ventilate. The ideal conditions for working on creating silicone are outdoors. But if this is not possible, then you can do the work on the balcony.

It is also worth knowing the peculiarity of the material - fast hardening. Therefore, it is recommended to produce the material in small quantities or carry out all actions quickly.

Other materials can be used to make silicone:

Place sealant in a plastic cup. Add glycerin and paint to it. To do this, it is convenient to use a pipette or straw. Add white spirit. Now you need to mix the mixture thoroughly so that the mass is homogeneous. Silicone is ready! It will remain liquid for about 4-5 hours and then harden.

How to make silicone at home

First of all, to make the material you need to mix ethyl alcohol with liquid glass in equal proportions. This can be done in any plastic container. During mixing, you need to add dye to the mass according to your own preferences.

Both a wooden stick and a regular spoon are suitable for kneading. After kneading, you will get a mass resembling plasticine or rubber. It can be used in several ways in the future. For example, knead with your hands. You can also put the mixture into a regular cooking bag or syringe with the necessary attachments and squeeze out the amount that is needed. You can also use regular cookie cutters. Or another option is to cast the required shape.

Important! Repeating the shape of an object will only be possible if you apply silicone mass to the outside of the object. To put it another way, apply the mass not into the mold, but from the outside.

Another important point: before applying the rubber mass, the surface should be lubricated with vegetable oil or soapy water.

How to make a silicone mold

For this you will need special material - compound, which consists of:

catalyst (hardening agent)
silicone pastes.

Thanks to these components, any shape can be cast. True, this is not exactly silicone (it is more reminiscent of rubber in its properties), nevertheless.

To make an analogue in the form of a silicone mold, you need to do a number of steps:

The required silicone mold is ready!

How to make a mold on a plate

To do this you will need liquid/cast silicone.

The stages of work are as follows:

A plaster or foam plate must be treated with soapy water.
Take a brush and apply silicone to the surface.
Now we need to work out the details. Particular attention must be paid to the top layer.
Wait until the silicone dries.

Now all that remains is to remove the silicone and the required shape on the plate is ready!

How to make a mold from silicone sealant

There are no difficulties here either. You will need any silicone sealant.

Stages of work:

You can also do this. Roll the silicone dough into a ball and press the dough into it. Align the edges. After a few hours, check whether the silicone has hardened or not. If yes, then the workpiece can be removed. The resulting form is ready!

Work very interesting with the material, especially creative people. You can do whatever you want with this material. However, if you want to use such a silicone mold for baking, then you should refuse such a desire. It is better to purchase an industrial silicone mold.

You can find many videos on the Internet that detail how to make silicone and molds with your own hands.

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Molding polymers

The universal material is obtained by dissolving crushed quartz with nitric acid. When mixed with one of the catalysts, it somewhat resembles rubber. The substance is non-toxic, resistant to alkalis and acids. When finished, it is elastic, impact-resistant, water-resistant and has an unlimited service life. Products made from it are very easy to care for and easy to store.

According to their intended purpose, two-component compounds, consisting of a paste and a hardener, are divided into pouring, coating, and silicone for making molds. With your own hands, you can make from these mixtures not only blanks for souvenir soap, but also strong templates for pouring paving slabs, obtaining decorative stones and gypsum stucco.

To give the substance a solid state, before use it is mixed with a tin or platinum catalyst, which is included in the kit. Some qualities of elastic rubber depend on the type of hardener:

transparency or dullness;
tear or tear strength;
dimensional retention and heat resistance;
hardness;
final hardening time;
durability and circulation resistance.

For example, mixtures with tin catalysts are used in industry and construction. To produce artificial stone or strong plastic products, you need the most durable materials. Food grade silicone for making molds into which chocolate and caramel are poured is produced on the basis of platinum hardeners. The softness and elasticity of these compounds is more suitable for “sweet” production and baking.

Where is homemade polymer used?

Despite the variety of compounds on sale, some craftsmen prefer to do everything themselves. This is usually justified by saving money and being creative.

Making silicone for molds with your own hands is possible in several ways. It should be clarified that the resulting substance differs in characteristics from industrial mixtures. And these differences are not always positive. If branded liquid silicone for making molds is used to create large and small products, then homemade rubber is made only for home creativity.

When starting to make silicone for molds with your own hands, place a container, box or drawer for the main work. It is made from cardboard (if the sample is small), wood or plastic. It can be collapsible or solid. From the first it is easier to release the frozen workpiece. There should be no gaps between the container parts, since all types of elastics have fluidity.

Before putting the “model” into the container, it is covered with a separator. This lubricant should be wax, fat or soap. To get a matrix for a vertical souvenir, it is attached by a stand to the bottom of the container on a piece of plasticine so that it does not float up. Then the pre-mixed compound is poured in a thin stream around the model. Filling the container begins from the corners, completely covering the figure installed inside.

Recipe No. 1: preliminary preparation

If you need a small amount of elastic rubber for a small product, you can use one of the options below. Making silicone for molds at home begins with preparing a vessel, a spatula for stirring, components, a main container for pouring and a small souvenir, the so-called master figurine, a cast of which is planned to be obtained for “cloning”.

For the first method, take equal amounts of glycerin and gelatin and place them in a small container. The composition is melted in a water bath with constant stirring, avoiding boiling. Heating lasts 10-12 minutes.

Details of recipe No. 1

The bottom of the prepared cardboard or wood tray is evenly covered with the resulting mixture. Then the souvenir is dipped into homemade silicone and quickly placed in this box. The stuck figure is immediately poured with hot mixture, filling the tray to the brim.

Liquid silicone for making molds, obtained in this simple way, hardens in a few minutes, almost before our eyes. After the mass has completely cooled, the resulting block is removed from the box, a cut is made on the bottom side and the souvenir is carefully removed.

The resulting shaped cavity can only be filled with epoxy resin. Making silicone for molds with your own hands using this recipe has several disadvantages:

the finished master product absorbs water, so it cannot be used to produce plaster castings;
the mass melts when you try to fill it with a hot substance, so it is not suitable for creating designer soap.
After several uses, the inner surface of the mold deteriorates, loses its gloss and quality.

The ability to repeatedly remelt used dies is considered a plus.

Recipe No. 2: preparation

Making silicone for molds with your own hands requires some effort. Craftsmen who work with plastic clay make templates and molds in this way to bring their ideas to life. So, you will need one of the types of high-temperature resistant construction sealant and ordinary food starch or talc. It is advisable to work with rubber gloves. Since the sealant sets within 10 minutes, it is necessary to place in advance next to the object from which the cast will be prepared: a shell, a figurine flat on one side, something else. The mold will be solid, with a concave depression, so it is suitable for the production of only one-sided souvenirs.

Recipe No. 2: details

Sprinkle a little talcum powder or starch on the surface of the table (to prevent it from sticking).
A bunch of sealant is squeezed out of the tube into the center of the sprinkle.
Add starch on top and mix everything.
The resulting “dough” should contain so much starch that it does not stick to your hands or to the table.
A thick cake is made from the mass, corresponding to the size of the future souvenir.
Quickly and carefully, with force, press the selected sample into this workpiece.
The silicone for making molds is left to dry for a day.
After removing the figure, the template cavity is lubricated with talcum powder using a brush and tightly filled with plastic clay.
This base can be placed in the oven to dry along with the filler; it is not afraid of high temperatures.

What's good about this method?

The first advantage is the reusability of the resulting template. The material retains all its qualities. You can pour a hot soap base into molds made from starch and construction sealant, after sprinkling them with alcohol from a spray bottle. DIY silicone for making molds can withstand temperature loads on par with industrial compounds.

Among the disadvantages are the sharp vinegar smell of sealants and the rapid hardening of the “dough”. But the master can prepare the amount of substance that is needed at a given moment in time for a specific job.