The island of Corsica, or rather its most popular town called Bonifacio. This city is considered the most photogenic and most colorful city of the island, and this is not at all surprising. The attractions located here are only admirable. 
Bonifacio is a city and at the same time a commune located in the south of the island of Corsica. The city is located on a long narrow peninsula, which is on the very edge of Corsica, and it is separated from the island of Sardinia by the Strait of Bonifacio. The population of the town is slightly less than three thousand people.
- Area: 138 km²;
- Timezone: UTC+1, summer UTC+2;
- Population: 2,700.
How to get there
Getting to the city is not difficult. The nearest airport is located just 21 kilometers north of the city center. It can also be reached by bus from Ajaccio and Bastia. 
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A bit of history
The first settlements in this area date back to prehistoric times, this is evidenced by an ancient residential cave near the village of Capello and chamber tombs, which is north of the city, near Figari. The first place dates back to about 6500 BC, and the second place refers to the Megalithic culture of the 3rd–2nd millennium BC. The history of the city itself begins in 828, when the fortress founded on this site was named in honor of Boniface II of Tuscany. 
Attractions
Bonifacio is divided into two parts: the Marina is a port quarter, which is intended for the anchorage of warships, fishing boats and pleasure yachts, and the Upper Town is a citadel located on 60-meter sheer cliffs. And, of course, the most interesting sights are located in the old part of the city. 
Here you will find a citadel with a very beautiful cemetery of sailors and the Aragonese stairs that descend directly to the sea. According to legend, all 187 steps of this staircase were carved in one night, during the siege of the city by the Spanish king. Nearby is the Cathedral of St. Dominic in the Gothic style, dating from the XIII century and the Church of Sainte-Marie-Magere, which dates from the XIV century. Not far from the port, in a natural cave, there is an aquarium where you can admire the flora and fauna of the Strait of Bonifacio. 
Embankment Camparetti, all built up with hotels, shops and restaurants. Opposite the embankment, on a hill, rises the Chapelle-Sainte-Roch church, which dates back to the 16th century, and the Porte des Genet drawbridge, which was once the only entrance to the city, leads to it. Stroll through the narrow streets of the city and enjoy the covered galleries and double arched windows. Watchtower Torrione, which dates back to 1195 and is 35 meters high, behind which is the historic quarter of Bosco. 
Bonifacio cannot boast of having places for swimming. It does not have a convenient entrance to the sea, and its strait is also known for strong currents and constant winds. Therefore, if you want to enjoy the warm sea and clean beaches, then you should go to the beaches to Santa Manza Bay and Rondinara Bay, which is 9 kilometers north of the city or to the small bays of Catalong, Pianterella and Sperone, which are 3-7 kilometers east of the city .
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September 17th, 2010 05:09 pm
That's it, that's all, my friends. Before you is my last Corsican post. For dessert, I left a one-day excursion to the most visited city of Corsica - Bonifacio (in the French transcription Bonifacio).
The writer Anatole France once remarked: “Sometimes one day spent in other places gives more than ten years of life at home.” For some reason, it seems to me that he was talking about Bonifacio! The city is magnificent!
So, for our visit to the southernmost city of France, we chose the already familiar company Nave Va. The cost of the tour for one adult is 58 euros, for a child - 40. We leave Ajaccio at 8 in the morning, returning at 18.30. 4 hours are given for a walk around Bonifacio: not much, of course, but for the first acquaintance it is quite enough.
It didn't storm this time. One of the team members gladdened us with this news as soon as we stepped on board the boat. It's nice to know and show some concern. In general, we did not experience any discomfort during the trip.
For some time they swam accompanied by dolphins ...
We met them, unfortunately, only once ...
It takes about three hours to sail to the final goal of our trip, but on the left side of the board there are beautiful landscapes ...
so time flies completely unnoticed ... Just remember to sit correctly ... on the left
In general, the coast from Ajaccio to Bonifacio is one of the most beautiful in Corsica!
Absolutely deserted beaches…
However, there are still traces of civilization ... Do you see the ruins? Apparently, this is one of the watchtowers.
The towers are located along the entire Corsican coast. There are 65 of them left in total. When an enemy ship appeared in the distance, the inhabitants of the island were warned about this by a smoke signal ...
People also meet ... This lady noticed my camera and expressed dissatisfaction. Literally in a second, she will build a composition called “fak yu” from her graceful fingers. Fi madam….
And this aunt, it seems, just a minute before our arrival, sunbathed naked ... And now she chastely covered her nakedness ... The one who was lying nearby seemed to have decided to hide ...
Meanwhile, chalk (gentlemen geologists, am I right?) rocks appeared - a sure sign that the final goal is already close ...
By the way, Napoleon's Grotto is clearly visible, but more on that later...
The city is getting closer and closer...
Here he is, handsome!
Proud and impregnable!
One of the myths about Odysseus mentions a city on a white rock that can withstand any siege.
Moreover! There is a legend according to which Odysseus even visited Bonifacio. I wonder if the city has changed much? I read somewhere that he looked like this!
Impressive, isn't it? The houses are located at an altitude of more than 60 meters above sea level...
The history of Bonifacio begins from the moment when a certain marquis from Tuscany gave this place his name. Later, the location of Bonifacio, which was advantageous from a military point of view, was appreciated by the Genoese and in 1187 captured the city.
This is what the texture of the coastal cliffs looks like...
On the way to the port, we sail past the famous grotto of Saint-Antoine (or the grotto of Napoleon, because from the outside it very much resembles the famous cocked hat of the emperor)
And here is the port...
In general, the city is divided into two parts: the lower city of Marina and the Upper (Old) city, the one that is located on the rocks.
This is a view of Old city from Marina...
How could it be without fortifications ... This is a fortress city!
You can get to the upper town either on a special small tourist train (included in the price of the tour), or on foot along the Monte Rastello footpath (pictured) ...
This is she...
The road ends at a certain balustrade, from which amazing views open…
Including one of Bonifacio's business cards - a piece of limestone rock called "Sand" ...
The views are really good…
From the balustrade you can see neighboring Sardinia (12 km to it), but I will not present photo evidence ...
Why do we need Sardinia if we are in Corsica!
There are no beaches in the city itself, but, as you can see, this does not bother some people ...
The purest sea water, perhaps one of the many visiting cards of Corsica!
This is the Chapel of Saint-Roch near the fortress of Porte-de-Gene…
Until the 19th century, the gates of the Porte-de-Gene fortress were the only entrance to the Old Town ... In general, there is also a drawbridge there ...
Guests are greeted by a local musician…
Welcome to medieval Bonifacio!
Parallel streets are sometimes connected by such corridors...
On the small "Street of the Two Emperors" in the house number 31 from January to March 1793, Napoleon lived (in those days, of course, he was not yet an emperor, but an ordinary lieutenant) ...
And in house number 22 in 1541 Charles V stayed ...
We continue to wander through the narrow streets of the city ...
Photographing any particular building as a whole is quite difficult. Very tight...
But the locals still manage to use scooters...
In general, there are 2,700 inhabitants in Bonifacio, most of whom are descendants of Italians who settled here after the capture of the city by the Genoese. It was a long time ago, so few people here speak the Ligurian dialect ...
Bonifacio is the most visited city of Corsica, so every tourist here is trying to sell an absolutely unnecessary souvenir "as a keepsake"...
Including a kind of Corsican "birdhouse", so that all your guests ask: "Oh, where did you bring this beauty from?" "Ah! It seems from Bonifacio!"
The church of Sainte-Marie-Majère is squeezed on all sides by houses, and several tables of one of the restaurants are so close to the side door of the temple that it is difficult for visitors to the tavern to figure out why they came here: to pray or still eat.
By the way, I meant this restaurant...
Quite funny signs come across ... It's easy to guess what this piglet will turn into ...
A cafe with the uncomplicated name "Fa" ...
Attributes of a disco... Apparently, for beauty...
From the Church of Sainte-Marie-Magere to neighboring buildings, special struts-flying buttresses are thrown. They distribute the load from the vaults of the cathedral, and in addition, through specially fixed gutters, rainwater flowed into a special cistern, located under the loggia of the church ... The volume of the cistern is 600 m3. It was a strategic supply of water in case of a siege.
Between ordinary buildings, there are also spacers and the same tricky rainwater collection system. Reservoirs for her were in every house.
The houses have very steep stairs. By the way, before there were no steps at all: you could climb into the dwelling only by a rope ladder and, in case of danger, immediately drag it along with you. This is not a metal door for you to put! Everything is much more reliable! It really is a real fortress city!
And this is another "feature" of Bonifacio - "the stairs of the King of Aragon." In general, the city was besieged many times. A particularly difficult siege was established in 1420 by the troops of the Aragonese king Alphonse. So, the legend says that his soldiers, in order to penetrate the city, cut through a staircase of 187 steps in one night in the rock! This is not for you to climb inside a huge wooden horse! Right? It's harder work!
If you are not prone to dizziness from heights, then do not deny yourself the pleasure of visiting this "attraction". The steps are quite steep, you need to go down very carefully. Handrails are available. The staircase leads to a path laid right in the rocks hanging overhead ...
The resort town of Bonifacio occupies a magnificent secluded location on the southernmost tip of Corsica on a narrow peninsula of dazzling white limestone.
The upper town (haute ville) replicated in the photographs, a labyrinth of narrow streets with two tall Genoese houses on the sides, naturally grows out of sheer cliffs, in which winds and waves have hollowed out voids and furrows.
On the north side, between the peninsula and the mainland, there is a deep crevasse, which forms an ideal natural harbor, which for centuries served as a shelter for various ships. Today it houses a luxurious marina that attracts yachts from all over the Mediterranean.
Separated from the rest of the island by a strip of thick maquis, Bonifacio differs from it in temperament, being distinctly more Italian than French in spirit. The city has preserved the Renaissance features that can only be found here, and its inhabitants speak the Ligurian dialect, a heritage from the time when Bonifacio was a virtually independent Genoese colony.
Such a place has inevitable drawbacks: exorbitant prices, colossal crowds in August and commercial cynicism, not typical of Corsica as a whole. However, the Old City is one of the most breathtaking sights in the entire Mediterranean.
This spectacle easily overshadows all the tourist bad taste surrounding it and fully justifies at least a one-day trip. If you want to visit during the high season, try to arrive early before the bus tours arrive around 10 am.
Arrival, city information and accommodation in Bonifacio
Figari Airport, 17 kilometers north of Bonifacio, is connected by flights to mainland France. There are also several charter flights from the UK. Out of season, there is no bus service between the airport and the city (Transports Rossi buses run during the season), so you have to take a taxi, which will cost about 45-50 €.
Buses from other parts of Corsica arrive at the bus depot at the pier, near which most hotels. The tourist office (July-September: daily 9.00-20.00; October-June: Monday-Friday 9.00-12.30 and 14.00-17.15) is located above, in Fort San Nicro in the upper town (haute ville), at the lower end of rue F. Scamaroni.
It can give you information about the availability of places in hotels. Car rentals are provided by Avis on the quai Banda del Ferro, Citer on the quai Noel Beretti and Hertz on the quai Banda del Ferro. All of them have offices at the airport.
If you need to exchange currency, be aware that the only ATM in Bonifacio at the Societe Generale bank on waterfront Comparetti(quai J. Comparetti) money often runs out, so try to use it early or you may find yourself at the mercy of scam money changers dotted around the city. You can use the Internet at Bomiboom.com (quai Comparetti, €0.15 per minute).
Staying in the city can be tricky, as hotels usually fill up quickly during the season, so you need to book a room in the center in advance. Better yet, get rid of worries and save a lot of money by choosing another place to stay and come to Bonifacio for the day, because the prices in the hotels here are the highest in Corsica. The same applies to large campsites along the road to Porto-Vecchio which may also be overcrowded.
Bonifacio Hotels
1). Hotel La Caravelle“Old hotel in a prime location on the waterfront, standard rooms not worth the price. Hotel address: 35 quai J. Camparetti;
2). Hotel Center Nautique“A chic, but not prim, hotel on the shore, finished with pleasant wood and decorated with nautical charts. All rooms are on two floors, with spiral staircases between floors, and tastefully furnished. The best high class hotel in Bonifacio. Hotel location: city pier;
3). Hotel Des Etrangers– Simple rooms (more expensive ones have TVs and air conditioners) face the main road. The hotel is located directly above the port. Nothing special, but very good for Bonifacio. Opening hours: April-October. Hotel address: 4 av Sylvere-Bohn;
4). Hotel Le Roi d'Aragon– Newly renovated 3-star hotel. Off-season discounts are higher than average. Some rooms are small, but the more expensive ones have sun terraces connecting them. The rooms offer great views across the port. Hotel address: 13 quai J. Comparetti;
5). Hotel Santa Teresa– Large 3-star hotel above the cliff and Maren cemetery. The hotel is notable for its amazing view across the strait to Sardinia. Not all rooms face the sea, so please ask for "vue mer avec balcon" when booking. Hotel address: Quartier Saint-Francois.
Campsites Bonifacio
1). Camping L'Araguina– Closest to the city, but inhospitable and terribly cramped. Lack of facilities for washing and toilets. It is best to avoid it unless absolutely necessary. Opening hours: April-September. Campsite address: Av Sylvere-Bohn;
2). Camping Campo di Liccia“It’s very big and shady, so there’s definitely room for it. Opening hours: April-October. Campsite location: 3 kilometers north towards Porto-Vecchio;
3). Camping Pian del Fosse– Large 3-star campsite, recently refurbished. In June and September it is very quiet and peaceful. Well located in relation to the beaches. Opening hours: April-mid-October. Location of the campsite: 4 kilometers from the city of Santa Manza.
Attractions Bonifacio
The neighboring rue du Palais de Garde, with its covered arcades and two-arched windows separated by unusually low columns, is one of the most beautiful in Bonifacio. The oldest houses here did not have doors on the ground floor at first. Residents climbed to the second floor by ladders and pulled them in with them so as not to be subjected to unexpected attacks. The first floor served as a barn and a granary.
On the other side of the Palais de Garde stands the church of Sainte-Marie-Majeure, originally Romanesque but rebuilt in the 18th century, although its richly stuccoed bell tower dates from the 14th century. Its façade is hidden by a loggia in which Genoese officials held court during the Republic.
The main treasure of the church is the remains of the True Cross, rescued during a shipwreck in the Strait of Bonifacio. For centuries, the inhabitants of Bonifacio carried them to the edge of the cliff during storms and prayed for the calm of the sea. The relic is kept in the sacristy of the church along with an ivory barrel with the relics of St. Boniface. You can look at these shrines only if you find someone who will open the sacristy for you.
To the south, rue Doria leads towards the Bosco district, and rue des Pachas, branching off at its end to the left and down, stretches to the 35-meter watch tower Torrione, built in 1195 on the site of the castle of the Counts of Bonifacio.
From it down the cliff leads the stairs of the King of Aragon (Escalier du Roi d'Aragon), only 187 steps (June-September: daily 11.00-17.30; 2 €), according to legend, built in one night by the Aragonese, who tried to capture the city in 1420 . In fact, it already existed by that time, and people used it to get water from the well.
Bosco area (Bosco)
To the west of the tower lies the district of Bosco, named after the forest that grew here in the 10th century. At that time, a community of hermits lived here, but today this limestone plateau is treeless and deserted. Signs of life are only visible at the military training camp, where young Corsicans in the sweat of their brows pass public service. The boundary of this area is marked by the Church of St. Dominique (St-Dominique), a rare example of Corsican Gothic, built in 1270, most likely by the Templars, and only later passed to the Dominicans.
Behind the church begins Mill Street (rue Moulins), which leads to three mills built in 1283. Two of them were destroyed, and the third was restored. Behind the mill, you will see a monument to the 750 shipwrecked victims who died in 1855 as a result of the collapse of the military transport "Semillante" en route to the Crimea - many ships were lost in this strait famous for strong winds.
The highest part of the plateau is occupied by the Marin cemetery (Cimetiere Marin), whose white crosses stand directly above the blue depth of the sea. The cemetery, open until sunset, is a charming place to explore. Here you can see magnificent mausoleums with a wide variety of architectural decorations: stucco facades, Gothic arches and classical columns.
Near the cemetery is a Franciscan monastery (Couvent Francois), founded, allegedly in memory of the fact that St. Francis sought refuge in a cave nearby. The story goes that the monastery is a sign of the city's apology to the saint, on whom a local girl almost poured a bucket of slop. From the esplanade of St. Francis (Esplanade St-Francois), enveloping the cemetery and the monastery from the south, there are beautiful views across the strait to Sardinia.
Where to eat and drink, Bonifacio nightlife
There are plenty of places to eat in Bonifacio, but it's best to avoid the gaudy restaurants around the marina - most of them don't justify their high prices. Restaurants in the upper city are less pretentious.
Grab a bite to eat at Boulangerie-Patisserie Faby (4 rue St-Jean-Baptiste in the upper town), a small bakery serving local treats such as pain des morts (sweet buns with chestnuts and raisins), fugazzi (biscuits flavored with vodka, lemon and anise) and migliacis (buns with fresh sheep's cheese), as well as the usual range, baked in the traditional local way - on the stone.
bars and cafes on the Quai Comparetti are the center of the social life of the city and the modest nightlife that dares to exist here on the surrounding terraces. The only one that existed here night club a few years ago, the nationalists blew it up, so you need to go to Porto-Vecchio for real entertainment.
Bonifacio Restaurants
1). Restaurant L "Archivolto“It's one of the most dignified places in the upper city, with a candle-lit interior filled with antiques and all sorts of old stuff. The cuisine here is not so colorful, and the prices correspond better to the level of dishes than in other establishments. But the restaurant fills up quickly, so it is recommended to book a table in advance. Lunch menu about 15 €, in the evening only a la carte, about 28-30 € for three courses. Opening hours: Easter-October. Restaurant address: Rue de l "Archivolto;
2). Restaurant Cantina Doria– Corsican dishes at practical prices. The popular €15 three-course set, which includes the local specialty aubergines (aubergines a la bonifacienne), is incomparably good by the standards of the upper town, but if you succumb to the temptation of fine wines, their choice here is excellent, your bill can skyrocket . Restaurant address: 27 rue Doria;
3). Restaurant Center Nautique– The best place for breakfast in Bonifacio: coffee, hot croissants, baguettes and freshly squeezed orange juice on the table plus a view of the bastion. Well worth spending 10 euros, but to get the best table, you should arrive early. Location of the restaurant: In the hotel of the same name;
4). Pizzeria De la Poste– Inexpensive and fun pizzeria serving oven baked lasagna, spaghetti with brocciu cheese, stuffed mussels and great pizza (10 euros). Pizzeria address: 6 rue Fred-Scamaroni;
5). Restaurant Les Quatres Vents– A small lively restaurant, popular with both locals and tourists. The set of dishes for 17 euros is exceptionally good. To find a table outdoors, you need to arrive early. Location of the restaurant: on the waterfront near the ferry pier;
6). Restaurant Stella d'Oro(Chez Jules) - A la carte restaurant with stone walls and wooden beams. Top-notch Corsican dishes include merizzane (stuffed eggplant) specialties. Also on offer are the famous spaghetti with lobster sauce and ravioli with brocciu cheese. A set of dishes from 22 euros. Restaurant address: 23 rue Doria - near the Church of St. John the Baptist (St-Jean-Baptiste).
Neighborhood Bonifacio
From the bluffs at the top end of the Rastello stairs (reached by a path to the left of the top steps) there are impressive views of the citadel, but they are nothing compared to the views from the sea. All day long, a fleet of sightseeing boats takes visitors to the best points to explore the chain of caves and other attractions accessible only from the sea.
There is also a route with a visit to the group of small Lavezzi islands (iles Lavezzi) - where a military transport (“Semillant”) crashed in 1855, which today are declared a natural reserve. All sightseeing ships, on which there are no empty seats, make trips to the continuous commentary from the loudspeakers. However, it makes sense to just go around the mouth of the bay and look at the Old Town, perched on the famous chalk cliffs. A trip through the caves costs 10-12 €, and a longer one excursion on Lavezzi - 20-25 €.
The beaches on this part of the coast are usually smaller and less attractive than most beaches in the south of Corsica, although those that border the Gulf of Santa Manza (Golfe de Santa Manza) to the north are among the most picturesque. At the southernmost tip of Corsica, which can be reached by a narrow but car-accessible road, there are three small bays with the most popular of the beaches, which are easily accessible from the city.
The first of these is the Pianterella beach, 7 kilometers east of Bonifacio, the most boring, and behind it is a nasty swamp. But if you go south and go around the cape, which takes about 15 minutes, you get to the beach of Sperone (Bregope) in a pearly white bay with calm and shallow water, ideal for small children.
However, in the summer, this beach does not have free places, so you can go even further along the coast, to Calalonga (Calalonga), where it is not so crowded. To get there, you need to go east on the D-58 highway and after about 3 kilometers turn into the first turn on the right. Undoubtedly, the most picturesque beach in this part of Corsica is Rondinara, a perfect cove with turquoise water, surrounded by dunes and flanked by two twin capes.
Fortunately, it is located quite far from the beaten track, although the recent construction of paved roads along the coast may change this situation. To see it at its most deserted, come there early in the morning. The turn to it is indicated by a sign at the 10th kilometer of the N-198 highway leading north.
Bonifacio is a place that amazes and enchants at first sight. The "pearl" of Corsica, as they call it here, for its beauty and the color of the sheer cliffs. The landscape is so beautiful that these massive cliffs, sea caves and the Lavezzi Islands are recognized by UNESCO and are under its auspices. Bonifacio is the very first city in Corsica. He proudly stands above the sea on white cliffs 70-100 meters high and looks into the distance. Seen from the top of the fortress neighboring country Italy, or rather, the island of Sardinia. You can go upstairs from the port-quay along a steep staircase or by car to get to the parking lot near Cimetière marin. The sights of Bonifacio are examined in order.
Bastion and fortress
Arriving by car, you will see Cimetière marin. What is this? Translates as a graveyard of sailors. It is not gloomy, although it is not necessary to go there. This is a historically important place for Corsica, as it is the first collective (for soldiers and sailors) cemetery on the island. Going around it, you will see the ruins of observation towers and the fortress wall of the bastion. The first stone of the bastion was laid by the Genusians, the construction was continued by the French. Bonifaccio has a complicated history. An unusual landscape and a strategically important place has been noticed since ancient times: BC. Romans lived in the vicinity of Bonifacio. In the era of our era, it became the first city of Corsica. Bonifacio was founded by a count from Tuscany in 824-829.
Gothic Church of Saint Dominique
Looking at the turret and chapel of the Church of San Dominique, it is hard to imagine that it was built at the end of the 13th century. The Gothic style is unique to Corsica, with only two churches on the island bearing elements of this style, both of them in Bonifacio.
Church of the Blessed Virgin (Sainte-Marie-Majeure)
Considered the oldest building in the city, construction began in the first half of the 13th century. Walking along the narrow stone streets, pay attention to the vaults between the buildings. They collected rainwater and, according to a special system, entered the cistern, which stood in the courtyard of the church. Holy Mother of God. Gothic-Romanesque style; it is worth going inside to admire the luxurious wall and ceiling paintings. Not far from the church, you will see the entrance to the Etandar Bastion, which has become a museum of the history of Bonifacio.
Staircase of the King of Aragon
The staircase carved into the hundred-meter rock is the symbol of Bonifacio. According to legend, it was carved in 1420 at the behest of the King of Aragon by his soldiers. According to other versions, it was built either by monks who descended to a source of drinking water, or by residents, as a plan to escape and descend to the sea during a siege. Now there is no source, and the path passes by the sea. It is worth raising your head - and it seems that white limestone rocks go up to the sky. Recommended if you have no health problems: after all, these are 187 steep and uncomfortable steps. Ticket 2.5€ (or complex ticket with a visit to the Etandar Museum for 3.5€).
Porte Gênes gate
The whole fortress is like an open-air museum. Stone pavement and restored, but real gates, emphasize this feeling. Leaving the walled city (or vice versa, rising from the port), it is impossible not to pass the 15th century Porte Gênes (literally the door of the Genusians). It was the only entrance to the citadel.
What else to see in Bonifacio?
- Descending from the gate down to the port, pay attention to the low chapel of Roch (Saint Roch). It is known that when the plague was rampant in the Middle Ages, the last infected came here.
- Embankment-port.
- Lavezzi Islands, sea grottoes
From the port of Bonifacio, several companies offer boat trips. Slowly sailing on a boat, you can see the sea grottoes and the stone "map" of Corsica, carved between the rocks by waves and wind. Adult ticket 17.50€, with snorkeling option slightly more expensive. Would you like to visit Lavezzi, one of the most beautiful beaches in Corsica? Walk to the natural park-archipelago - 35 €. There will be time to swim and explore the islands.
Have a fabulous trip to Bonifacio!
Ilmira Contini
