How to make a subwoofer box correctly
Preparation
To make a subwoofer enclosure yourself you will need:
- Drawing;
- Materials: plywood or MDF, glue, screws, terminal block, wire for connection;
- Tools - jigsaw, screwdriver, pencil, template for mounting hole or compass.
Drawing
Having the housing parameters for the subwoofer in hand (volume, area and length of the port), you can make a drawing yourself using special programs (in my opinion, SketchUp from Google is the most convenient for this). But if you make the box for yourself, then there is no point in wasting time learning the software and doing everything the old fashioned way - by hand.
If you do not know how to calculate the body, then read the material. You can also order a paid estimate on the Internet; as a rule, it is accompanied by a clear drawing for manufacturing.
An example of a drawing of a housing with a bass reflex (FI)
Materials and fasteners
Housing material
In order to make a box for a subwoofer, you need a material that should vibrate as little as possible. From experience, it is best to use MDF (not painted, not laminated, etc.)
MDF (MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard). In Russian - medium density fiberboard.
MDF is easy to process, has good density, due to its structure it has no resonances and does not delaminate - the bass in such a box is soft and dense. MDF is more expensive than plywood and is “afraid” of moisture.
Plywood is the most common option and costs less than MDF.
Do not use chipboard or old furniture to make subwoofer boxes. A plywood or MDF body will always sound better.
If the walls are thick enough, there is no need to cover the inside of the body with vibration insulation, etc.!
Do not use material thinner than 18 mm. and the larger the volume of your case, the thicker the walls should be.
Many large stores that sell sheet material offer a cutting service to your dimensions, where they will cut the perfect parts for you on a machine, all that remains is to assemble the body.
Fasteners
For fastening it is best to use yellow screws length at least 2 times the wall thickness. The heads of black ones often break off; they are thinner and not as strong. An advanced solution is furniture bolts, but if this is your first sub, then it will be easier with self-tapping screws.
Yellow screws, black screws, furniture bolts.
Cage nuts for attaching the subwoofer to the case - that's cool! The sub can also be secured with self-tapping screws, but with bolts in the mountings, the speaker is attracted as tightly as possible, and if necessary, it can be removed and installed as many times as necessary without damage. And the polished hex bolts look really cool.
Bolt with cage nut
Video about installing cage nuts (a more convenient option):
Glue
If you are sawing the walls with a jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw, then the glue will additionally act as a sealant between the uneven edges; any liquid wood nails will do for this. If you unraveled the material on the machine and the edges of the body walls are perfect, then you do not need to use glue; it will be enough to coat the joints from the inside.
Terminal block
You can route the wires directly, but it is better to make a box for the subwoofer with a terminal block.
Terminal block for housing
Use threaded options - they are more reliable. For round seats, it is convenient to cut a hole using a nozzle.
Wires
You will need a piece of wire to connect the subwoofer coil to the output terminal block. Take any copper wire no thinner than 4 mm. in most cases this will be sufficient.
Tools
You will need:
- A circular saw— for cutting material, it can be either manual or stationary, it all depends on your capabilities. It is better not to cut with a jigsaw, the edges will be too uneven, even if you attach a guide bar, since the file can still wander.
- Jigsaw- for cutting out holes for the speaker and for the terminal block, it can also be a router, with its help the holes will be smooth and neat. To cut out the wall for a round terminal block, you can use a saw attachment. Select the right jigsaw blade for the job at hand.
- Screwdriver- for tightening screws and drilling holes.
Cutting parts
So, you have decided on the shape for the sub box and you have a drawing.
Mark the sheet according to the parts and cut according to the marked dimensions. Use a disk with a large number of teeth; the smaller the tooth size of a circular saw blade, the fewer chips you will get, and their size will be insignificant.
If you use a manual circular saw and your hand is not full, better to use a guide, so as not to accidentally “fail” the cut.
It is better to do this work together, since it is quite inconvenient for one person to turn large sheets and hold them while working.
Below is a good video from Rockford Fosgate, although in English, but everything is clear here without translation - choosing the shape of the body, lining up the parts, cutting.
Subwoofer enclosure assembly
To properly make a box for a subwoofer, before screwing in a self-tapping screw, drill a hole for it with a thin drill, this will increase the strength of the fastening and protect the plywood from delamination. Distribute the number of screws evenly along the length of the side and make sure that they do not meet at the corners.
Almost always a template for cutting out the mounting hole comes with the sub; it can be part of the box or be a separate attachment. Cut out the template, transfer it to the front side of the box and cut it out with a jigsaw or router.
Template for mounting hole (cut from box)
If you don’t have such a template, you’ll have to arm yourself with a compass. When marking and cutting out the hole for the speaker, be very careful! The basket shelf is almost always narrow. If you cut less than required, the subwoofer basket will not fit into the hole; if you cut a little more or not exactly, the sub will not fit tightly or the mounting screws will hang in the air.
For heavy subwoofers, it is recommended to make the front wall of the housing double to eliminate vibrations during speaker operation.
Double front wall
With large dimensions of the case, double walls may not be enough and in some cases it will be useful to use spacers.
Options for struts and stiffeners
Please note that all wire entry channels, terminal blocks, etc. must be sealed, internal partitions (port walls) must not have any gaps.
It is convenient to cut a hole for a round terminal block using a nozzle; when installing it, do not forget to glue it around the perimeter.
When tightening the screws, do not overdo it so as not to tear it off and do not forget to pre-drill holes for them.
If you use cage nuts to mount the speaker, then first install it in the seat, accurately mark the drilling locations, remove the speaker and drill through the front wall according to the marks (make sure that the drill is always perpendicular to the plane). Select the thickness of the drill in accordance with the diameter of the embedded nuts. Install the nuts into the prepared holes from the inside of the body so that they do not fall out when the bolts are screwed into them.
Cage nuts on the inside of the front wall
When screwing the speaker, do not forget to connect it to the terminal block; for this, you can solder the wire to it or use special terminals.
Informative video of assembly and gluing using the example of Rockford's serial Subic.
If your case was correctly designed, it is sealed, strong and with sufficient wall thickness, then its sound will definitely please you.
In contact with
A buffer for the car to amuse people. :winked:
In order to assemble a subwoofer for a car with our own hands, we will, of course, need the desire to make it and patience, because assembling a subwoofer is one such audiophile solution for which some do not have enough patience. You will also need material things; you can purchase them both at a construction equipment store and at home, for example, the same closet will do.
We will need:
- Chipboard 18 mm thick, approximately 2.5 * 1.5 m
- A screwdriver or drill, if you use a drill you need to carefully tighten the screws, since chipboard is a rather soft material
- Screws 45-55 mm long, 120 pieces
- Silicone sealant
- Low-frequency speaker
- A couple of stronger wires
- Clamp for wires from amplifier to speaker
- Drills 4 mm and 8 mm
- A circular saw or a jigsaw, the second one will be more convenient for sawing
- Construction tools such as corner, pencil, ruler.
To assemble the subwoofer smoothly and efficiently, you need to find a partner who will hold the chipboard for you while sawing and feed you the screws. We have found a partner, we can start sawing up the components.
The dimensions of our speaker are 8 inches, which is enough to drive a small car, the dimensions of the box are taken from the group in contact, I chose the best option on a slotted bass reflex, I looked at many reviews, which contributed to the choice.
First, let's cut out the top and bottom sides, their dimensions are the same and equal to 536 mm in length and 311 mm in width.
We cut everything carefully so that there are no bevels, check for evenness with a corner, everything matches, and move on. The next step will be sawing the side parts, these sides are different, the length of one is 447 mm, and the other 500 mm, on the smaller side you need to drill a hole, stepping back from the edge 2 cm with an 8 mm drill, running a jigsaw into the hole and cutting out a circle with a diameter of 181 cm, the speaker will be fastened from the outside so as not to disassemble the entire box in the event of a speaker failure.
Now let's pre-drill holes for the screws so that the chipboard does not crack, and so that dents do not form in the place of the screw. The appearance of the screwed-in screw does not look very good, we will make a small recess for each head, now when the screw is tightened it becomes flush with the plane.
So, we have a box of four walls, it remains to cut two boards for the phasic, the length of one is 223 mm, the other is 258 mm, all two sides have a height of 220 mm. You need to cut all the walls at right angles; you can measure it using a corner, apply it, it matches, which means the angle is exactly 90 degrees. We screw the sides onto the self-tapping screws, also first drilling holes and making recesses, countersunk for the screws, it is made 8 mm - drilled. Now we attach the side with 258 mm to the connection, the port should be 35 mm on both sides. So, we measured it, everything fits together, we can attach it with screws.
And yet, when installing all sides of the buffer, it is necessary to coat their seams with sealant, it is better to apply it in waves, this will make it less likely that the sub will sniff, and when the sub sniffs it is very unpleasant. All that remains is to put on the side and install the speaker, then the top cover. Next step: use a soldering iron to solder the wires tightly to the speaker, push it into the seat.
Then we tighten it with four shorter screws (it’s better to coat the rim with a small amount of sealant), about 30 mm long, and solder the wires, observing the polarity from the speaker to the terminal block.
After all the sealant has dried, you can close the sub cover, this is the last stage, on the cover you need to measure where the screws will be both for the fuse and for the walls, the thickness of the chipboard is 18 mm, therefore, stepping back about 8 mm from the beginning of the edge, we turn the screws. Before this, apply sealant to all parts of the sides at the top, without allowing the sealant to dry, place the lid on.
A subwoofer is a separately installed speaker system that is designed to reproduce low-frequency sound waves in the range of 20-120 Hz. It only sounds at low frequencies when the main speaker system only at high and mid frequencies. Low-frequency sound is unrecognizable to the human ear, so it can be mounted anywhere in the car interior. Making your own subwoofer is not a difficult task. You need to start by purchasing speakers.
Types of subwoofers
There are passive and active subwoofers.
Passive subwoofer It is a housing with a speaker built into it. For a subwoofer of this type to operate correctly, an external amplifier with sufficient power is required.
It comes with its own low-frequency amplifier already built into it with the ability to adjust the volume. Many active subwoofers also have bass and treble cut controls. This is necessary so that the sound from the subwoofer is consistent with the speaker system. The most significant drawback of this type of subwoofer is its high price.
Interesting to know! In 1998, Russian craftsmen from the Autolux company created the Bluesmobile from a Nissan Terrano II. It was equipped with four amplifiers, six speakers and nine subwoofers, with a total sound pressure of 147 dB. This monster holds an official record of 135.9 dB. But this is quite enough to feel how your internal organs “walk” throughout the body.
Choosing speakers for a subwoofer
Typically, subwoofers use speakers of the following sizes:
Six-inch speakers, used as additional sources of mid-bass frequencies.
Eight-inch speakers, used to produce front bass.
perfectly reveal their potential in a closed case with a volume of 15-20 liters. This results in a good subwoofer of compact size with optimal sound pressure.
Twelve inch speakers are optimal for housings from 25 to 35 liters. This is perhaps the most optimal option.
Fifteen inch speakers often used in SPL sound pressure competitions. They are built only into housings from 60 to 90 liters, and such a device will not fit into every car.
The basis of the resistance difference in the sound coil operates on the principle: the lower the load resistance the amplifier has, the higher its power. A load of 1-2 ohms leads to deterioration in sound quality. It is recommended to choose twice the load of 2-4 ohms.
Neither experts nor amateurs have yet agreed on the power characteristics of the speakers. But what can be confirmed with certainty is the need to choose a speaker that is superior in power to the amplifier. No audio system is designed for long-term operation at peak power. This leads to an increase in nonlinear distortions and a significant decrease in the quality of reproduced audio signals. Therefore, some balance must be maintained.
Selecting speaker parameters
Now it's time to create a virtual model of a homemade subwoofer. It is better to design the future box using the WinISD 0.44 program, but this will require some characteristics of the speaker, or rather the Thiel-Small parameters:
Qts- speaker quality factor;
Fs- resonant frequency in open space;
Vas- equivalent volume.
You won't have any problems with the Fs parameter. For GDN35 Fs will be 38 Hz, for GDN50 - 40 Hz, and for GDN75 it will be 25-35 Hz. If the speaker is branded and made abroad, then its parameters can easily be found in the WinISD 0.44 database.
When calculating the subwoofer box enclosure, the most important parameter is Qts. This parameter determines the ratio of the transfer function of the frequency dynamics Fs to the transfer function at those frequencies whose frequency response is horizontal. To put it another way, at frequencies above Fs, Qts determines the efficiency of the speaker at the resonant frequency. The only problem is that low-frequency speakers, for example, of the HDN standard, are produced in different places, and the parameters vary greatly between different manufacturers.
When calculating a box for a subwoofer, it is necessary to take into account all possible variations in Qts values and add waste options. Many sources indicate the following parameters:
35GDN-1-8 Qts = 0.4;
35GDN-1-4 Qts = 1±0.5;
50GDN-42D Qts = 1±0.5;
75GDN-1-4 Qts = 0.2-0.5.
Vas- is not a particularly important parameter that affects the calculations. It can be considered equal to the following:
GDN35 - 40-50 l.;
GDN50 - 90 l.;
GDN75 - 80 l.
Designing a Subwoofer Box Using Software
The next stage of making a subwoofer with your own hands is to choose the type of box. Using the program, you can create projects of four types of boxes:
closed box;
Bass reflex;
4th order bandpass;
6th order bandpass.
Each speaker has its own positive and negative sides. The choice of box, to a large extent, should be made based on the selected speaker itself. The program will help you figure out which box will suit the speaker best.
Before creating a subwoofer box project, you need to model the speaker with the parameters stored in the database. Click "New", then select "Own drivers", then "New" again, and load your parameters. Then confirm – “OK” and close – “Close”. Then create a project based on this speaker. Repeat the procedure several times using different types of boxes.
Design consists of varying the size of the boxes and adjusting the frequency of the bass reflexes. The program reacts to the changes you make and changes the sound graph in real time depending on the frequency. To adjust the frequency of the bass reflex, the length of the pipes and their diameter are changed. Make sure that the size of the pipes does not turn out to be too large; this will be indicated by the Vent mach field, which will light up in red. The ideal graph is the one that crosses the -3 dB line at a frequency of 25-35 Hz, and then passes along the 0 dB line and drops to 150-200 Hz. Further design will involve searching for possible deviations.
Types of box design
There are four most popular types of subwoofer boxes. The design features of the boxes directly affect the quality of the sound obtained at the output. Below we will briefly talk about them:
is the easiest option to model and manufacture. In fact, its name expresses its essence. The subwoofer speaker is placed in a closed wooden housing, which improves its acoustic characteristics. It won’t be difficult to make such a case, but its efficiency is the lowest of all those presented.
It is a body divided into chambers of different volumes. A speaker is placed in one of them, and an air duct in the other. The peculiarity of this subwoofer design is the ability to limit the frequencies reproduced by the diffuser.
Bandpass 6th order differs from the previous one only in that it has one more additional air duct. This type of design is the most difficult to design and create, but has the highest level of efficiency.
– a housing with a tube built into it that removes air. Due to this tube, additional sound comes from the rear of the subwoofer. In terms of the quality of sound characteristics and the complexity of manufacturing, this type can be placed between “ZY” and “Bandpass”.
Subwoofer housing drawings
For example, let's look at the diagram. In this article we will make a box for a subwoofer with a 12-inch speaker. The volume of the structure for it should be 40-50 liters. Designing a housing for a subwoofer is not difficult. Here is a rough diagram for this. Just pay attention to the minimum distance from the speaker to the walls of the box. It, like the entire volume of the structure, is calculated on the inner surface. 
Material selection and required tools
Necessary materials to create a subwoofer enclosure:
Speakers, when choosing which, you need to know the difference in their characteristics. Usually the instructions or on the box indicate the recommended design specifically for a given speaker.
Plywood sheet, fiberboard, chipboard. The quantity must be calculated based on the size of the future building.
Acoustic terminal. Optional element. You can simply drill a couple of holes through which to bring the wires out of the speaker.
Acoustic cable.
Sealant or PVA.
Self-tapping screws for wood.
Epoxy resin.
Varnish or paint.
Glue for carpet. The one in the can is convenient.
A bass reflex enclosure requires a tunnel of a suitable size. If you do not find what you need on sale, then purchase a pipe of the required material at a building materials store. Plastic, cardboard and even metal will do.
Necessary tools to create a subwoofer enclosure:
Jigsaw.
A screwdriver, if not, a screwdriver.
Roulette.
Pencil or marker.
Carpet or other material for the outer covering of the body.
Scissors.
Case manufacturing stages
1. Cut the walls of the housing according to its dimensions. It is necessary to cut, observing the dimensions, carefully measuring. When assembling, the gaps should be minimal; ideally, the parts of the body should fit as tightly as possible to each other.
2.
Coat the joints of the walls with sealant and connect them together. Then secure them with self-tapping screws in increments of five centimeters.
3. Re-coat the joints both outside and inside. Do not allow even the slightest holes, as a whistle will be heard through them when the subwoofer is operating.
4. Cut a hole for the speaker terminal in a convenient location.
5. Use a jigsaw to cut out a hole for the speaker.
6. If the box is designed for a bass reflex subwoofer, then the corresponding port is installed in the corresponding hole using epoxy resin.
7.
To protect the case from moisture, it must be coated with varnish or paint.
8. Cover the case with carpet or other material, leaving holes for the speaker, port and terminal.
9. Place the terminal in its place and secure it with self-tapping screws, additionally coat it with epoxy.
10. Secure the wires inside the terminal to the terminals. Connect the other side of the wire to the terminals on the speaker. The wires should not sag. The length should be sufficient for connection.
11. Reinstall the speaker. Seal the joint between the speaker and the box with a gasket. If this did not come with the speaker, you can use foam rubber or window sealing.
12.
Secure the speaker to the body with the self-tapping screws that came with it or any other suitable ones.
Now let's talk in more detail about how to make a subwoofer yourself and mount it on a car. The most convenient and universal body shape is a slightly truncated pyramid. Since most cars have a standard rear seat angle of 23 degrees, the rear wall of the subwoofer is inclined at the same angle. After determining the required space, calculate the size of the case and draw a drawing of the body of the future wooden case.
It is better to make the front wall from chipboard with a thickness of 23 mm, the side wall - 20 mm. Cut out the walls from the material according to the dimensions in the drawing, and then assemble the body. It is better to lubricate all connections with glue and secure with self-tapping screws. It is better to drill the holes for them to 3 mm, and for the heads it is better to take a drill with a diameter of 1 cm. Next, on the side, use a compass to make markings for the future acoustic terminal. Cut them out with a jigsaw. A terminal under high pressure may make unnecessary sounds. To avoid this, shield it with a small box, then coat the joints with glue and secure with self-tapping screws. Use a plane to cut off any excess projections.
In the front, mark and cut a hole for the speaker in the same way. To protect against moisture, impregnate the body with nitro varnish. It can also be applied to the inner end of the front panel. For greater attractiveness and practicality, the exterior of the body can be covered with carpet. It sticks to the same nitro varnish. Connect the speaker to the speaker terminal and attach them to the housing.
Housings for this type of subwoofer are quite bulky. Such a subwoofer is difficult to calculate and configure, but such a homemade element of a car speaker system has a higher efficiency than the previous version. In this case, the parameters are also calculated using special software. The assembly of the body is carried out as in the previous version, only it must also be carefully sanded. Next, cut out holes for the bass reflex, handle pockets and socket. Install all fasteners and check them thoroughly. The body can be covered with leather.
The manufacture of a housing for this type of subwoofer should be undertaken by those who have experience in making calculations, because it is difficult to calculate and it is easy to make mistakes in dimensions. But the bandpass produces a wonderful sound and has good efficiency. In addition, it is well protected from external mechanical damage, as it is completely hidden in the housing. Calculations are also carried out using computer software, but not only for the entire body, but also for each of the cameras separately. When you cut out the parts, stick to all the dimensions as closely as possible.
The design is assembled as in previous versions. The partition with the speaker is made from two sheets of chipboard. The inside of the body is covered with noise-absorbing material, batting, for example. The glue is applied in small strokes over the entire area. Do not pour a lot of glue to avoid static properties. You can additionally secure the structure with a construction stapler. Solder the wires to the terminal and speaker. The rear camera must be completely sealed. The greatest tightness is achieved thanks to liquid nails and tape glued over the seam.
The bass reflex bell is made by heating the edges with a can and expanding them. A carpet with a bass reflex is placed in the hole cut with a jigsaw in the lid. Coat the joints with liquid nails. The rear cover with the bass reflex is covered with noise-absorbing material. Assemble the finished subwoofer and cover it with carpet.
Bandpass 6th order
This is the most difficult subwoofer to assemble and calculate. You shouldn’t even approach this without thorough preparation. Comparable to the previous version, but produces a much larger frequency range. Its efficiency and power are difficult to calculate even with the help of simulation programs. As a rule, all parameters are selected solely according to personal preferences.
The design of the body is much more complicated than in previous versions. To make the connections much stronger, they are made from wooden blocks secured with self-tapping screws. Cut all parts strictly according to the calculated dimensions. Everything is done further using a technology similar to the fourth bandpass, only use cotton wool as an additional soundproofing material.
Homemade stealth subwoofer
This type of subwoofer is hidden as much as possible and takes up almost no space in the trunk, so it is very convenient to use in a car. It is usually installed in the trunk behind the rear arch. A good speaker requires a housing of 18 liters, and sometimes more. The housing can be moved slightly inside the trunk, and the subwoofer can also be placed in a niche intended for a spare tire.
When installing a stealth subwoofer, you need to extend its front panel slightly and connect it to the luggage compartment upholstery. It is necessary to construct a form from corrugated cardboard, gluing its pieces together with masking tape. Assemble the amplifier frame and try on the equipment. Next, make a fiberglass cladding panel for the amplifiers that are already installed on the frame.
Seal all spaces between the plastic with tape and polyethylene. Then everything is screwed with self-tapping screws to the housing box. Corrugated cardboard is used as formwork to eliminate gaps in the body. To give a more attractive appearance, you need to use fiberglass and putty. Install the subwoofer into the rear fender and smooth out any uneven surfaces with sandpaper. Cover the body with carpet and attach the speaker.
Subwoofer backlight
To illuminate the subwoofer, you can use both LEDs and diode strip. LEDs have two contacts: anode (A) and cathode (K). To properly connect the LEDs, you need to connect pin A to the positive on the power supply, and K to the minus. The resistors of each individual LED are soldered to the Anode. Decide in advance how you will mount the LEDs inside the subwoofer. It is better to place them so that they stick together and tightly. The equalizer sensor must be located away from the subwoofer so that it is not damaged.
If you use an LED strip as backlight, then fixing the diodes is replaced by installing the strip. This will make installation easier for you, since they are already carefully adjusted to each other and well secured. It is quite simple to mount the tape inside the subwoofer using double-sided tape. Using this option, you can vary various design solutions. For example, a ring of LEDs around the speaker, the brightness and color of which can be adjusted as you wish.
Every car owner who tunes his car is guided, for the most part, only by his preferences, taste and imagination. What experts advise is generally accepted as recommendations. The same can be said about how to create subwoofers yourself and then install them.
I need a cheap and powerful subwoofer for my speakers, and instead of spending money on it, I decided to build a homemade subwoofer from a regular speaker at home. I found a 10-inch Pioneer TS-W255C for only 800 rubles and will tell you how to make a subwoofer with your own hands.
What you will need:
- Old computer power supply (wattage depends on how big your subwoofer/amplifier is)
- Car amplifier (something that can be a bridge and has a built-in crossover)
- Subwoofer. There are quite a lot of choices here, but most car subwoofers are poorly made. Look for a heavy magnet in a fancy casing.
- Speakers
- 18mm fiberboard, depends on the size of your subwoofer
- Several thick wires for speakers
Step 1: Design
To properly design and plan the enclosure I would need, I used Google Sketchup. I calculated the volume and dimensions of the case using WinISD. I got a cubic-shaped case with a side of 35 cm, which made it possible to use it at frequencies up to 32 Hz.
As you can see, my version has a port in the corner. This is in order to obtain the lowest possible frequency.
You need to make such a case to get a flat and lowest frequency. WinISD is a fairly advanced program, so you'll want to watch a few introductory videos.
Remember that the port volume is excluded from the case volume (combine the port volumes and the case volume together and then calculate the dimensions)
Programs
- WinISD - To use this you need to know the Thiel-Small parameters of your speaker
- You need to calculate the wall thickness and approximate volume of the case yourself, and not rely on WinISD readings.
Step 2: Cut out the sides of the case
This is a pretty simple step. Cut the walls of the required size from fiberboard.
I made the fuse for the speaker out of neoprene - it's pretty cheap. I simply cut out a circle of the correct size with a knife, this will seal the area around the speaker.
Step 3: Make a port
I made the port from 110mm plastic gutter.
Other options are a slotted or round port, but in my case this worked best.
Step 4: Glue the Body
I used a lot of wood glue and then secured the frame with clamps overnight. I didn't use any nails or screws, the glue worked great.
Step 5: Port Installation
I glued the port to the case using glue and silicone sealant.
At this point I probably should have secured the free end with some sort of cross fastener to prevent vibration, but the port seems to be pretty solid. To understand the scale, you could easily stick your hand into this port.
Step 6: Speaker Hole
I cut the hole and sanded it down to get a nice rounded edge. This image shows the size of the subwoofer well. To sand, I used a small sander with varying grits of sandpaper until the surface was smooth.
Step 7: Painting the Body
First you need to prime the surface in several layers. After that I spray painted the body with black automotive paint.
It is best to prime the surface and then leave it to dry overnight. After this, sand the surface until it is smooth to the touch. This will give the surface a beautiful glossy look.
Step 8: Finishing the Inside of the Case
I don't know what kind of material this is, but it seemed to me that it was insulation. I used a staple gun to secure a layer of material to each of the walls.
This should make the cabinet less boomy as standing waves and resonance are limited, resulting in punchier bass, but you don't want to add too much insulation - it will reduce internal volume and mess up your calculations.
Step 9: Power
An old PC's 500W power supply with ground and 12V wires tied together and a Lanzar Heritage 2000W universal car amplifier work well with the subwoofer.
Simply connect the green wire on the power supply to the ground wires on the amp, and if your amp has a REM, connect it to 12V so it turns on from the power supply.
Step 10: All Done
The end product produces some decent bass, and the 11mm xmax is damn impressive.
In general, a DIY subwoofer for the home turned out to be quite cheap - about 2,500 rubles.
Possible improvements:
- A little adjustment to the port, at full volume the low notes move so much air that there is a slight slurping sound, but it's not a big problem.
- Feet can be added to reduce vibration.
- Align the speaker. If I made a double wall of fiberboard in the front, I could recess the speaker inward so it wouldn't stick out, which would improve strength.
- You can put the amplifier and power supply inside the case, but I don't think it's worth the effort. You'll have to tinker with the crossovers and check temperatures, etc., but it will look better.
What is the best way to make a subwoofer box?
What is the best way to make a subwoofer box with your own hands? Readers often ask. Let's try to figure it out.
This article was written precisely for this purpose. In addition, the reader will receive valuable instructions on how to make a cabinet for this speaker with their own hands. Having found out what would be the best material to make a subwoofer box from, you can safely proceed to the operation.
Which material is better
In principle, there are many materials from which a housing for such a speaker can be made. It can be plywood, MDF, chipboard and so on. Each of these materials has not only advantages, but also disadvantages.
Note. The best material for making a subwoofer enclosure, according to many experts, is shipboard laminated plywood.
Finding ship plywood is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. Construction sites and other manufacturing enterprises have such material.
Formwork is often made from this plywood. This material is always moisture resistant, very durable and tough. In a word, for a subwoofer body this is what you need.
Note. It will be useful to know that in the West, where the manufacture of homemade enclosures for subwoofers is highly encouraged, they prefer MDF. They don’t have any marine plywood at all, and many experts see this as the reason for their love for MDF.
Chipboard is also a good material, but it doesn’t like moisture at all. In addition, when processed, chipboard tends to crumble. On the other hand, if you take thicker material, the problem can be solved.
Some experts also recommend other materials, but they are, as a rule, not so popular - for example, glued laminated boards.
Purchased or made yourself
Let's get started:
- The first step is to determine the size and shape of the future box. It will be useful to find a suitable housing drawing;
- We determine the material from which we will assemble the box. As mentioned above, marine plywood is considered the best material. If we couldn’t find it, then we use MDF or multilayer plywood.
Note. When choosing plywood, the main thing is to pay attention to its thickness. Try to select thick plywood, because the rigidity of the entire structure will depend on this, which will ultimately affect the sound.
Thus, the optimal thickness for a subwoofer box is considered to be 18 mm. This is quite reasonable: you won’t have to spend a lot of money (the thicker the plywood, the more expensive it is) and the quality will remain at the same level. On the other hand, everyone decides for themselves and sometimes the weight of a homemade box can reach more than 50 kilograms.
- You don't have to cut plywood in your own garage. You can do this right in the store if you ask the seller to observe the appropriate dimensions. In many stores, cutting is completely free;
- We prepare the necessary materials: glue, preferably PVA, brushes, self-tapping screws or furniture screws, liquid nails and much more.
Note. Don’t forget to buy a piece of carpet, which we will use to cover the box at the last stage of production.
We are building a building
First of all, we start making the body of the box.
Started:
- It is advisable to make the front part of the box, where the head will be fixed, double. We just put two sheets of plywood here and that's it.
If the thickness of the plywood sheet is chosen to be 18 mm, then in this part the thickness should be all 36 mm, which will provide greater rigidity. This is very important, because it is this part of the box that receives the greatest impact.
Note. You can do it differently. A hole of normal size is made in the first sheet, and a larger hole is made in the second sheet, which is on the outside. Thus, the subwoofer head will be recessed into the body, which has a positive effect not only on technical capabilities, but also on aesthetic components.
Let's continue:
- We glue the plywood sheets together and then secure them with self-tapping screws. It is important not to skip screws, but to attach them to every 1 cm2 of wall area.
Note. In other words, it is advisable to tighten the screws every 3-5 cm.
- We connect the walls of the box body not with self-tapping screws, but with special furniture screws. To do this, we arm ourselves with a drill and drill holes for the screws. Then we drip glue into the hole we made and tighten the screw. Unlike self-tapping screws, screws will provide better fixation.
Note. Over time, furniture screws do not become loose, even from constant shaking and vibrations.
- A triangular strip is glued into the inner corners of the box if it is necessary to increase the rigidity of the structure. You can even install stretchers inside, which will prevent deformation of the body.
This is recommended to be done only for large speakers (see) with prohibitive power, since for medium and small ones this installation does not make sense.
We protect and modify the hull
Let's get started:
- A special varnish applied to the surface will help protect the plywood from moisture;
- We glue vibration-insulating material inside the case. It will not only protect the body, but will also significantly increase the rigidity of the entire structure;
- Some experts recommend protecting the subwoofer housing with vibration-insulating material on the outside as well. This will make it possible to obtain pleasant and high-quality bass;
- We glue all the joints and connections, paying special attention to the place where the wires come from.
Note. It is believed that a closed type of subwoofer box should not have any holes at all. And some experts even recommend checking the tightness of the box by pouring water inside. But this is already overkill and it is unlikely that this should be done.
How to make a box for a subwoofer
At this point, the process of making a subwoofer box with your own hands can be called complete. The instructions should not be ignored under any circumstances.
Video reviews and photos are of no small importance - materials that also need to be given attention (see). Thus, the price of the subwoofer housing will be the lowest, since you will only need to spend money on consumables.
