Haircut methods and techniques for performing them. Haircut technology - abstract. Tools, equipment, devices used when performing modern model haircuts

Haircut is not only a creative, but also a complex technological process. However, before we talk about cutting operations and complex techniques, it is necessary to introduce some more basic concepts.

Haircut shape- this is the three-dimensional volume that a hairstyle occupies in space. Forsch can be correlated with geometric bodies: ball, cylinder, cone, etc.

Haircuts come in four forms:

monolithic (massive) - for example, a classic square. All hair is cut along one line;
graduated - with this form, the hair on the lower occipital zone is shorter, and on the parietal and upper occipital zones it is longer;
cascading (progressive) - hair in the parietal zone is shorter than in the temporal and occipital zones;
uniform - the length of the hair is the same throughout the entire head, repeating the shape of the head.

Haircut silhouette- this is the outer contour of the hairstyle, determining its shape. We can say that the silhouette is a projection on the plane of the shape of the hairstyle. For example, a massive silhouette is close to a square or trapezoid, a graduated shape in a silhouette is an extended oval, a cascading shape in a silhouette is an elongated oval, and a uniform shape is a circle.

Haircut structure- This is the distribution of hair length in different zones. For example, when cutting a bob, the hair in the lower occipital zone is the shortest, and in the upper part its length increases. With natural fall, all hair is located at the same level.

Control strand (CP)- this is a strand, focusing on the length of which the subsequent strand is cut. The angles of pulling or combing strands are considered in relation to the surface of the head.

Rice. 5.9. Parallel placement of fingers when cutting

Cutting line is set by the position of the fingers, which, when cut in relation to the partings, can be either parallel (Fig. 5.9) or non-parallel (Fig. 5.10). The cutting line is often determined in relation to the horizon:

horizontal - parallel to the horizon;
vertical - perpendicular to the horizon;
diagonal - at any angle to the horizon.

Rice. 5.10. Non-parallel placement of fingers on the cut

As a rule, all these haircut lines require placing your fingers parallel to the parting. Haircut lines are also classified as concave or curved.

Cutting angle- this is the angle between the plane of the strand and the fingers when the fingers are not parallel.

Pull angle(strand lift) is the angle between the surface of the head (tangent plane at a given point) and the plane of the strand.

Brush angle- this is the angle formed by the direction of combing the hair in the strand in relation to the parting. When talking about the angle of the comb, they often mean the comb towards the face or towards the back of the head.

Types of slice. The cross-section of the cut hair depends on the position of the fingers in relation to the strand and on how the blades of the scissors are positioned in relation to the plane of the strand. This, in turn, affects appearance haircuts, ease or difficulty in styling hair.

Rice. 5.11. Straight cut:
a - cross-section of hair with a straight cut; b - placement of fingers for a straight cut

The slice is called direct, if the hair cross-section is round (Fig. 5.11, a). The blades of the scissors are positioned perpendicular to the plane of the strand, and the strand is drawn, as a rule, at an angle of 90° to the surface of the head (Fig. 5.11, b). The cut can be made both from the inside and outside of the palm.

The slice is called sharp, if the resulting hair cross-section is oval-shaped (Fig. 5.12, a). The blades of the scissors are positioned at an angle to the plane of the strand (Fig. 5.12, b). A similar cut can be obtained with a razor if its tip is located at a large angle to the plane of the strand.

Rice. 5.12. Sharp cut:
a - cross-section of hair with a sharp cut; b - positioning of fingers for a sharp cut

Oval The cross section of the hair is also obtained with the so-called internal or external cut.

The internal cut is obtained by turning the strand when cutting away from you. As a result, we get a section of strand in which the inner layer of hair is shorter than the outer one. This allows the hair to lie down when styling.

The external cut is obtained by turning the strand when making the cut towards itself. As a result, we get a section of strand in which the inner layer of hair is longer than the outer one. This allows the hair to lie up when styling.

Rice. 5.13. Hair section with sliding cut

Sliding cut slicing gives a very long oval in the cross section of the hair (Fig. 5.13). A sliding cut is obtained with straight scissors without notches or a razor. To make a sliding cut with scissors, grab a strand of hair between the first and second fingers of the left hand, pull it back, insert the half-open blades of the scissors into the strand and easily move the scissors from the root to the ends of the hair. Do not close the blades of the scissors or move them, otherwise the strand will be cut.

Serrated cut pointing used for simultaneous hair shortening and thinning (Fig. 5.14). With this cut, the hair seems to be combed into each other. In this case, the haircut looks very neat, “hair to hair.” Perform with straight scissors. The strand is combed out, pulled at the same angle as when cutting, and a fringe-shaped cut is made with the tips of the scissors.

Rice. 5.14. Serrated cut pointing

In this case, it is convenient to turn your hand with the back of your hand towards you. The cutting depth of scissors is from 0.5 to 3 - 4 cm.

Point cut point cut used in very precise geometric haircuts with simultaneous thinning. In this case, the cut is made with the tips of the scissors, which are located almost perpendicular to the strand. Cutting depth 1 - 2 mm. This type of cut is very labor-intensive, cutting takes a lot of time, but the hair lies very well. These haircuts are especially great with a monolithic shape.

In the process of performing a haircut, several operations can be distinguished, differing in the methods of work and the tools used:

reduction "to nothing";
shading;
transfer;
thinning;
edging;
removal on fingers.

Nullification- a smooth, gradual change in hair length from the longest in the central zones (Tz, VZz) to the shortest in the peripheral areas (Vz, NZz) along the edge of their growth (reduction zone).

This operation can be performed with any cutting tool. The most common method is with a machine with or without attachments. But with just one machine, changing attachments, you cannot achieve a smooth and beautiful transition in hair length. The machine only performs rough processing; final work requires painstaking work with scissors. Before performing the operation, it is necessary to clearly understand the style and shape of the future haircut. The height of the reduction zone depends on the length of the hair on the parietal zone. Suppose the length of the hair on T3 is quite large (6 - 8 cm), then the reduction zone will be very small, 1 - 2 cm on the neck and, perhaps, on the temples (Fig. 5.15, a). If the length of the hair on Tz is small (3 - 5 cm), then the height of the convergence zone increases, and it can be drawn parallel to the KLRV (Fig. 5.15, b). With sufficiently short (1 - 2 cm) hair on T3, the height of the reduction zone can reach the temporal and occipital tubercles or even the crown (Fig. 5.15, c).

Rice. 5.15. The reduction zone and the shape of the haircut:
a - with a hair length on T3 of 6 - 8 cm; b - with a hair length on T3 of 3 - 5 cm; c - with hair length at Tz 1 - 2 cm

Reducing hair to nothing using a machine can be done in two ways - without a comb and with a comb. We must not forget that the machine is only used on dry hair.

The first method (without a comb) is performed with or without attachments. The bottom plate of the machine should be pressed against the skin only with the heel, and the teeth should be directed upward at an angle of 10 - 20°. The sharper the transition in hair length is needed, the greater the angle between the teeth and the surface of the head should be. The machine moves smoothly upward against hair growth; First, the heel is pressed tightly against the skin, and then the teeth of the machine gradually move upward. In parallel sections on the right and left, you should carefully monitor the movements of the machine so that the hair is the same length.

The second method (with a comb) is to place a comb under the heel of the machine and cut the hair along the plane of the comb, which moves against the hair growth. The clipper blade moves perpendicular to the direction of hair growth. By moving the comb downward, the cut hair is combed out. The comb is held in the left hand in the fourth and fifth ways (see subsection 2.1). If it is necessary to create a smooth transition in the length of the hair, the teeth of the comb are brought out at a slight angle to the surface of the head, and the butt is pressed tightly against the skin. The quality of a haircut largely depends on the uniform and coordinated movement of the comb and clipper. You must not allow the clipper or comb to get ahead of each other, otherwise there will be snatches or steps.

In any case, after processing the hair with a machine, it is necessary to finalize the haircut using scissors. This operation is the most painstaking and complex, requiring the skill and patience of a master. It is important to hold the comb and scissors correctly to get the correct cut. Control the movements of the scissors blades - only the top blade should work. When working with two blades, hair from the top and bottom of the strand gets into the cutting area; As a result, the shortest hair is obtained in the middle, which immediately affects the quality of the haircut and its labor intensity, since the work requires constant correction. The movements of the comb should be fast, clear, smooth and coordinated with the work of the scissors. The comb moves when cutting against the hair growth, moving gradually from the CLW up and then down, combing out the newly cut hair. The scissors move along with the comb, the working blades are parallel to the plane of the comb. The blades of the scissors can be directed both to the left and to the right (for example, when processing the right side of the back of the head or the right behind the ear). You can work with the tips of the canvases or the entire plane. To make this operation easier and create a smoother transition, single-sided thinning scissors are often used.

You can also reduce it to nothing using a straight razor. Before doing this, the hair must be thoroughly wetted so as not to harm the scales when cutting.

Tushevka- the operation of obtaining a smooth transition from short to long hair. This operation is similar to hair reduction, but requires more careful execution. Even the slightest violation of the smooth transition from long to short hair will lead to the appearance of characteristic steps in certain areas, which indicate poor-quality shading. The latter is performed with simple scissors, the thin ends of which make it possible to perform the operation very accurately. When shading with scissors, the master holds a comb in his left hand, with which he systematically combs the hair in the direction of the planned hairstyle; in his right hand there are scissors. After combing out the next strand of hair, the ends of which are cut at an obtuse angle, the next strand is combed out. In this way, the master moves from short hair (at the base of the neck) to long hair (at the top). The scissors are always in motion. The greater the transition from short to long hair, the more impressive it looks, but also the more difficult it is to perform.

Transfer- this is an auxiliary operation used when reducing “to nothing” and when shading. Hair longer than 0.5-1 cm is inconvenient to cut using the shading technique. To make subsequent cutting easier, use half-opened scissors to pick up a strand of hair, throw it over the teeth of a comb and cut it to the desired length. The comb is held in the left hand with the teeth up, the cut hair is combed out, the comb moves downwards. Having thus removed the excess length throughout the entire area of the hairline, they begin to reduce it to nothing or shading.

Thinning- this is a smooth, gradual change in hair length from the longest in the central zones (Tz, VZz) to the shortest in the peripheral areas (Vz, NZz) along the edge of their growth. Thinning emphasizes the texture of the haircut, lightens the ends of the hair, and emphasizes the shape.

In hairdressing practice, the following types of thinning are used: root thinning, along the entire length of the strand, at the ends of the hair.

Root thinning is used to thin out thick and heavy hair in order to create additional volume. This type of work is performed:

using simple scissors using the plucking (or cutting) method. The thinning depth is 2 - 3 cm from the root. To do this, select a strand 1-3 cm thick, comb it and pull it at an angle of 90° to the surface of the head. Using the ends of the scissors, directed perpendicular to the strand, point cuts of individual hairs are made in a random order at different levels, creating, as it were, an “undercoat”;
thinning scissors with one or two blades (Fig. 5.16). The thinning depth is also 2 - 3 cm from the root. The scissors are inserted into the strand and make one cut. In this case, the blades of the scissors are located at an angle of 45° to the plane of the strand.

Rice. 5.16. Thinning by plunge method

Thinning along the entire length of the strand gives the haircut plasticity, texture, thins out thick, heavy hair and facilitates the styling process. It can also be used for facial correction. For example, using thinning along the entire length of the strand, a round face is corrected if the client prefers long hair and the volume of the face is not needed. This type of thinning is performed:

using simple scissors using the cutting method, cutting the hair at different levels along the entire length of the strand and moving the scissors from the roots to the ends of the hair. You can use a sliding cut. For example, when processing facial strands, it is used after first twisting the strand into a bundle;
Using thinning scissors, the strand is thinned along its entire length, inserting the scissors at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the root. Make cuts moving towards the end of the strand. The blade of the scissors is at an angle of approximately 45° to the plane of the strand. Depending on the length and thickness of the strand, you need to make from 5 to 8 cuts. The dimensions of the strand are the same as when cutting: thickness no more than 1 cm, width 3 - 5 cm. After making cuts, you must comb out the cut hair and only then cut the next strand. Such thinning is performed throughout the hairline or in its individual sections;
a simple or thinning razor.

In the latter case, such thinning is performed using various methods:

hair is combed according to its natural fall. A strand of hair is grabbed and held by the ends with your fingers. The razor smoothly glides through the hair from the middle of the strand and 1/3 of its length (sliding method);
The hair is divided into zones according to the cutting line. The razor is moved with cutting movements towards the ends of the hair in front of the comb. Used on short hair if the hairstyle requires a tight fit of the hair to the head (scraping method);
a strand of hair is combed perpendicular to the head and profiled on one or the other side of the strand. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that if the strand is worked from the outside, then the hair will lie upward when styling, but if you work on the inside of the strand, then the hair will fall down when styling (thinning method);
select a strand of hair in the form of a square. Comb perpendicular to the head. The razor moves from the ends of the strand to its roots, imitating a backcomb. This method is quite harsh on the hair (combing method). At the slightest unpleasant sensations the client is recommended to immediately change the thinning method;
select a strand of hair in the form of a square, twist it into a bundle and, using scraping movements, perform thinning towards the end of the strand (the method of scraping a twisted strand).

Thinning at the ends of the strand gives the haircut texture, lightness, and allows you to obtain a soft contour of the strand. Performed:

with simple scissors using various techniques, for example, cutting to a depth of 1-3 cm from the end of the strand, a sawtooth cut to the same depth, or a sliding cut;
thinning scissors, which are inserted into the strand at a distance of 1 - 3 cm from the end of the strand and cut.

Edging- This is most often the final cutting operation, in which the hair is given a final contour, limiting it along the entire edge of hair growth or in certain areas of the hairline. The edging gives the haircut a silhouette. During the cutting process, it is performed with any cutting tool simultaneously with other operations.

The following types of edging are distinguished: bang edging; temple edging; neck trim.

Edging the bangs is done with simple scissors using a straight, sawtooth or point cut. You can do the edging with a razor using a blunt cut or in the form of a fringe. The shape of the bangs can be adjusted to the forehead or face shape. Horizontal lines expand the face, oblique lines distract attention from a heavy chin or lengthen the face (Fig. 5.17).

Rice. 5.17. Bang edging shapes:
a - straight; b - oblique; c - concave; g - convex; d - triangular; e - fantasy

The bangs stand out from the natural parting in the form of a triangle with the apex at the parting and the base at the temporal notches to hide the receding hairline, if any. The thicker the bangs, the further along the parting the top of the triangle is.

Edging the temples is also done with straight scissors (but can be done in the form of a fringe) and thinning scissors, a razor or a machine (trimming the temples in men's haircuts). The choice of temple shape depends on the shape of the nose and chin and, if necessary, corrects them. For example, a straight or oblique temple suits a person with a snub or regular nose. But an oblique temple is not recommended for a long nose or a hump. In this case, as a rule, the so-called “Hungarian” temple is recommended.

The edging of the temples begins on the left side, since it is more inconvenient when working, therefore, it is easier to equate the right side with the left. When cutting, you can focus on the lobes or tragus of the ears, chin or corners of the mouth, etc.

The shapes of the edging of male temples are shown in Fig. 5.18.

Rice. 5.18. Shapes of edging of male temples:
a - straight (suitable for coarse dark hair in classic haircuts); b - elongated straight line (can correct a full face); c - shortened straight (above the hairline, suitable for sports haircuts); g - straight, rounded (suitable for curly hair); d - oblique; e - extended oblique; g - shortened oblique; h - “Hungarian” (corrects a hump nose)

The shapes of the edging of female temples are shown in Fig. 5.19.

Rice. 5.19. Shapes of edging of female temples:
a - straight; b - oblique; c - “pace” (not suitable for curly hair)

Neck edging is done with any cutting tool. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the growth of hair on the neck and the shape of the edge line. If there is abnormal growth, curls, or cowlicks, you can trim these hairs by placing the blade of the scissors flat and close to the skin. It is not recommended to shave these hairs on women's necks. When performing edging with straight scissors, you need to press the hair that is to be cut with the fingers of your left hand or the back of a comb and trim it.

The shape of the edging can be used to correct the perception of the shape of the neck. Remember that horizontal lines create the effect of expansion, and vertical lines create elongation.

When edging the neck in men's haircuts, clients' preferences become obvious from experience. Most often, men prefer their neck to appear wider visually, but do not like rounded neck corners.

The shapes of the neck edging in men are shown in Fig. 5.20. The edging begins from the left temple, moves to the behind-the-ear, then the right temple, the other behind-the-ear, and only after that the neck is edged. When performing edging with scissors, the cutting line is drawn from one neck corner to the other; When cutting with a clipper, the edging is done from the middle of the neck to the left and right.

Rice. 5.20. Shapes of neck edging for men:
a - bracket of various configurations; b - “in a pigtail”; c - curly (according to hair growth)

Edging with a razor is performed in the same sequence, only you need to slightly pull the skin upward with your left hand. When doing work on the left, the razor is held in the second stroke.

The shapes of the neck edging in women are shown in Fig. 5.21. When edging the neck of women, it is imperative to take into account hair growth and neck correction. If the hair on the neck at the edge of the hairline sticks out in different directions, it should be carefully trimmed with the tips of scissors, while one blade is pressed flat against the skin. Subsequent cutting and edging should cover up such lack of hair growth.

Rice. 5.21. Shapes of neck edging in women:
a - straight; b - concave; c - semicircular; g - “in a pigtail”; d - bracket of various configurations; e - fantasy

A woman's neck should not visually look short and wide. At the same time, if in the area of the seventh cervical vertebra and below there is compaction due to osteochondrosis, the back of the head should not be made thin, as this will only emphasize such a defect. Pigtail edging is performed with appropriate hair growth; with a different type of hair growth beautiful shape will not work. Under the same conditions, figured edging is performed. I

If the client has long or medium-length hair, the edging is done on the fingers. It must be remembered that the lifting angle of the strands in such cases is 0°.

Remember the main rules of edging:

the strand should always be combed perpendicular to the intended edging line (Fig. 5.22);
The edging line cannot be raised above the marginal hairline.

Finger removal is a haircutting operation in which hair is shortened on the entire head or in individual areas. It is often the main operation that performs the entire haircut.

It is necessary to firmly grasp the techniques used to perform finger removal:

Using a comb, select a strand of hair no more than 0.5-1 cm thick (the thinner the strand, the more accurate the haircut!). Each subsequent strand is cut based on the length of the hair of the previous strand, which is why the thickness of the strand affects the accuracy of the haircut;
The strand is carefully combed out, grabbed at the base between the second and third fingers of the left hand and pulled back, observing the required angle of lifting of the strand. At the same time, the fingers slide along the plane of the strand, stopping at the desired length;
the comb is transferred to the left hand, pinching it between the first and second fingers;
make a cut at a distance of no more than 1 cm from the fingers (otherwise the accuracy of the cut line is lost). But you cannot cut close to the fingers, so as not to damage them.

For convenience and depending on the technology, you can separate the strands with different partings. In this case, the appropriate position of the left hand holding the strand is selected. Fingers can point up or down; the cut can be made both from the inside and outside of the palm.

STATE EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTION

SECONDARY VOCATIONAL EDUCATION

"ASTRAKHAN STATE COLLEGE OF PROFESSIONAL TECHNOLOGIES"

COURSE PROJECT

ON THE TOPIC: "MODERN HAIR CUT METHODS"

Completed by: student of group 3-10 PI

Osipova E.P.

Head: Nazarova R.V.

ASTRAKHAN 2005

Introduction

Section 1. Theoretical part

1.1 General information about hair cutting

1.2 Modern methods and techniques for cutting hair

1.2.2 Thinning with a razor

2.1.1 General information

2.1.2 Combs

2.1.3 Scissors

2.1.4 Razors

2.2.2 Style for every day

2.2.3 Grotesque

2.2.5 Sports haircut

Conclusion

1.2.1 Modern methods thinning with scissors

1. Zigzag saw method. The strand is pulled perpendicular to the head, the scissors are held vertically and the required length of hair is cut in a zigzag.

2. Injection method. The strand is pulled perpendicular to the head, and the ends of the scissors make point cuts of individual hairs, creating an undercoat.

3. Tweezing method. Can be done with the ends of scissors in a sliding motion both above and below the fingers.

4. Sliding cut. It is performed with thinning scissors, which seem to glide smoothly through the hair.

5. Thinning along a twisted strand. A small strand is twisted with a flagellum and cut in several places with the ends of scissors.

6. Backcombing method. The strand is perpendicular to the head, the open blades of the scissors are inserted into it and a movement is performed from top to bottom.

1.2.2 Thinning with a razor

Scraping. The hair is divided into zones in accordance with the cutting lines, the razor is moved towards the ends of the hair in front of the comb. This method is performed if the hairstyle requires a tighter fit of the hair to the head (only on curly, coarse hair).

Tumirovka. The comb is positioned with the teeth up and combs the hair. The razor moves parallel to the comb in the opposite direction.

Slip. The hair is combed out with a comb, the razor glides smoothly through the hair towards the ends.

Backcomb method. The strand is positioned perpendicular to the head, the razor moves from the ends to the roots, imitating a backcomb (with a flagellum).

Blunt razor cut. On the twisted strand, we pull small strands perpendicularly, twist them into a rope, and cut off the ends with a razor.

Thinning twisted strands using the “scraping” method. We separate the strand in the form of a square, twist it, pull it perpendicular to the head and mill it with cutting movements towards the ends.

1.2.3 Modern hair treatment methods

Pointcat(pointcut) - a point-toothed cut from the ends of the hair to the middle (for thinning).

Polishing- a point-toothed cut from the middle of the strand to the ends.

Pointing- sliding serrated cut from the middle of the hair to the ends (with straight scissors):

Ponting is a serrated cut sliding from the ends of the hair to the middle onto a dry one (a more obtuse angle);

Pancrotizing - a sliding serrated cut from the ends of the hair to the middle on dry hair (can be done on wet hair) (sharper).

Slicing(clithing) - a sliding cut with straight scissors from the roots of the hair to its ends, angle - 30-60°.

When styling hair up, slicing is done from the outside, and down - from inside.

1.2.4 Modern haircut techniques

Neo-minimalism - simple haircuts with straight scissors, without jagged cuts or thinning. A minimum of details and a simple shape (square).

Geometric- geometric shapes, details, cutting according to hair.

Corridors- non-connecting parts. It is cut using straight scissors. Corridors come in different lengths and can be parallel or staggered.

Non-Mating Connected Parts- not connected in form, but connected in image.

1.3 Factors influencing the choice of haircut

The right choice of haircut will allow the hairdresser to correct flaws in appearance and pay attention to its advantages. When choosing a haircut as the basis for a hairstyle, it is necessary to take into account the individuality of a person’s appearance, as well as existing anatomical features, i.e. The choice of haircut is determined by the following factors.

1. Head and face shape. Due to the fact that the shapes of men's and women's heads are different, haircuts also differ: angular lines predominate in men's haircuts, and rounded lines predominate in women's haircuts.

2. Dimensions. Shoulder width, height, build, etc.

3. Hair growth boundary. In men, for example, the border of hair growth on the neck is lower than in women, and the frontal notches are more pronounced.

4. Type and characteristics of hair growth. Most often, difficulties in performing a haircut are observed on the top of the head, in the frontal and occipital parts of the head.

5. Hair density. Hair density is different in different areas of the head. Typically, there is less hair density behind the auricle, in the lower occipital zone, as well as in the areas of the frontal recesses and the crown. When choosing a haircut, this must be taken into account.

6. Forehead height. For example, a high forehead must be covered with bangs.

7. Profile. There are three types of profile: straight (ideal), which does not require correction; convex - with a protruding middle part (in this case, the volume of the hairstyle on the forehead must be increased); concave - with a protruding chin (in this case, a haircut with small bangs is necessary, i.e. increasing the volume of the hairstyle in the forehead area is not recommended).

8. The width of the back of the head. A triangular edging of hair on the neck visually reduces the width of the back of the head, while a straight edging increases it.

Section 2. Technological part

2.1 Tools, equipment, devices used when performing modern model haircuts

2.1.1 General information

Hairdressing tools are designed to perform various operations with hair (cutting, styling, etc.). All tools used for hair processing, according to their purpose, can be divided into three main types:

1) tools for combing hair;

2) tools for cutting hair;

3) tools for styling and curling hair.

The quality of work depends on the ability to correctly use each type of hairdressing tool. Therefore, the hairdresser must know all the hairdressing tools and be able to use them correctly.

The choice of tool for performing various operations depends on the task assigned to the hairdresser, i.e. the use of each tool allows you to obtain a certain effect, which determines its choice.

Various devices used in hairdressing salons help the hairdresser in his work, facilitate the performance of certain operations and protect the client from unpleasant sensations.

Electrical equipment used in hairdressing is designed to dry hair and speed up chemical processes during coloring and curling.

2.1.2 Combs

When cutting and styling hair, it is necessary to comb the hair to distribute it evenly. For this purpose, combs are used, the components of which are the spine and teeth. Combs vary in length, width and frequency of teeth. Wide combs are used when working with wide strands of hair, small combs are used when working with small strands or when doing very short haircuts. A frequent arrangement of teeth causes strong tension on the hair, which does not occur with a sparser arrangement of teeth.

Based on the material from which combs are made, they are divided into metal, wood, bone and plastic.

Metal combs, when combing wet hair, damage its outer scaly layer, as a result of which the hair becomes brittle, brittle and splits into two or more parts. Due to the fact that the master most often works with wet hair, the use of metal combs in hairdressing salons is strictly prohibited . Wooden combs do not harm hair, but they are not suitable for use in hairdressing salons.

Bone combs are very expensive and most often come in the form of combs and various clips used as decorative elements.

Plastic combs are the most common type of tool today. They differ in the quality of the plastic. All combs used for hairdressing must be made of high quality plastic with antistatic properties; in addition, they must be flexible and durable.

The famous Hercules company produces rubber combs that are very well polished during processing and therefore practically do not damage the outer scaly layer of hair. Their only drawback is their fragility, i.e. if pressed very hard they can break.

Currently, silicone combs, which are particularly durable and safe, are widely used.

Combs used in hairdressing are always smooth, do not slip in the hand, have pronounced angles, while ordinary ones glide in the hand, are oval in shape and magnetize the hair during combing.

According to their purpose, all combs can be divided into four main types.

1. A combination comb is a comb whose working surface has frequent and rare teeth. It can be used for work in both women's and men's rooms. Small combs with thinner edges are more often used in the men's room. Combination comb - universal, used for combing, cutting, cold and hot styling, as well as backcombing and blunting hair .

2. Comb with uniform teeth. On its working surface there are only frequent or only sparse teeth. Such combs are used for combing hair and cutting hair in the women's room.

3. A comb with a pointed handle - a comb-tail. It is used when winding hair with curlers and bobbins, i.e. where it is necessary to clearly separate the hair into strands. This comb should not be used when cutting hair.

4. A comb with a regular handle and a fork comb are used when coloring and styling hair.

Brushes are also used to massage the scalp, comb and style hair. They may have bristle, plastic or metal teeth. It is preferable to use brushes with teeth made of natural bristles, as they pull hair better during styling. Brushes come in two types: flat and round.

Flat brushes (Fig. 1) are used to massage the scalp and style hair. The ends of the teeth of such brushes should have balls that serve to protect the scalp from scratches. Using flat brushes during styling, the stylist lifts the hair at the roots to give the hair volume. Blow-drying with a flat brush is called “bombing.”

Rice. 1 - Flat brushes

Round brushes (Fig. 2), called “brushing”, are used during styling to shape the ends of the hair. Blow-drying with a round brush is also called brushing.

Rice. 2 - Round brushes

All brushes should have fairly stiff bristles and a hollow base to allow air to pass freely. The height of the teeth on the brush is not the same.

"Striper" is a type of comb for coloring hair. With the help of these combs, operations such as highlighting and coloring are performed, especially on hair whose length is 25 - 30 cm. The “Striper” has a special attachment, usually rectangular in shape with several holes. When combining the nozzle with the comb, its holes clearly coincide with the spaces between the teeth, so when applying dye to the nozzle, it is located on the teeth of the comb itself at a certain distance. Then a strand of hair is combed. The teeth of the comb are positioned in such a way that the strand is enveloped in dye and compressed tightly, thereby eliminating the possibility of dyeing subsequent strands.

Comb for highlighting and coloring. Using this comb, highlighting and coloring are performed using special paper or foil. Teeth extend from the central axis of the comb in different directions, bent at the ends into a triangle, which allows them to pry strands of hair. A comb can have up to four rows of teeth. Each row has a different distance between the teeth (from 3 to 10 mm). Depending on the result required, a specific row of teeth is used.

The selected strand of hair is pulled perpendicular to the head, then the teeth of a certain row of combs are inserted perpendicular to it and lifted, pulling the strands intended for dyeing at the same distance from each other. Next, the main strand is released, and the strands intended for dyeing remain raised.

By placing special paper or foil under these strands, dye is applied to them. This operation is carried out over the entire head or partially in some of its zones.

The scissors consist of three parts: two identical halves and a fastening screw. Each half of the scissors consists of a ring, a lever and a working blade. The working blade has a tip, an end and a butt.

There are three types of hairdressing scissors: straight, thinning and flag.

Straight scissors (Fig. 3) are intended for cutting hair, beard and mustache, as well as for thinning. They differ from ordinary (household) scissors in the quality of the steel from which they are made, the sharpening angle of the working blades, and the presence of sharp tips.

Rice. 3 - Straight scissors

Straight scissors can be with long, medium and short working blade. Scissors with a long working blade are most often used for haircuts in the men's room. Scissors with a medium working blade are universal and are used in both men's and women's rooms. Scissors with a short working blade are used for work only in the women's room, since the cut of the strand when cutting women's hair is often done from the inside of the fingers.

Thinning scissors are used to thin and shade hair. They come in two types: one-sided and two-sided. Double-sided thinning scissors have teeth on two working blades, while single-sided thinning scissors have teeth on only one blade (Fig. 4). When working with thinning scissors, the hair that falls between the teeth remains long, and the hair that falls on the teeth is cut off. Therefore, single-sided scissors allow you to cut more hair than double-sided scissors.

Rice. 4 - Single-sided thinning scissors

Flag scissors (Fig. 5) are used for simultaneous cutting and thinning of hair. One working blade of such scissors is either regular straight, or with fine teeth, like thinning scissors, or with two wide teeth, and a nozzle with some kind of pattern is put on the second working blade.

When cutting hair with such scissors, you can get strands with the ends of the hair thinned according to the pattern of the nozzle, many short and long strands with a pattern at the ends of the hair, as well as short strands with elongation at the edges and a pattern at the ends of the hair.

When working, the scissors are held on the first phalanges of the fingers of the right hand, with the thumb in the lower ring and the ring finger in the upper ring.

The index and middle fingers are located on the upper lever of the scissors. Only the thumb works.

Rice. 5 - Flag scissors

2.1.4 Razors

There are two types of razors used in hairdressing: straight razors and thinning razors.

Straight razors are designed for shaving the face and head, as well as for cutting and thinning hair. There are classic straight razors and those with a changing blade, the so-called machine tools. A classic razor consists of two parts: a blade and a handle-case . The blade, in turn, consists of three parts: a working blade b, a neck with notches and a tail . The working blade includes a butt, a head, a sting , heel and radius groove.

Depending on the shape of the working blade, razors with deep and shallow radius grooves are distinguished. The deeper the radius groove, the thinner and sharper the razor tip.

Currently, classic razors are not used due to their non-compliance with sanitary and hygienic requirements.

Thinning razor , intended only for cutting and thinning hair, consists of the following main parts: handle, safety comb, blade, mounting screw and guide pins. All parts of the razor can be made of plastic or metal. Combination razors made of plastic and metal are widely used. The safety comb has teeth on both sides (usually 7 - 9 pieces on each side), which can be oblique or straight. The width of the safety comb together with the teeth is 6-8 mm greater than the width of the blade. The protruding teeth of the safety comb make the razor safe.

2.1.5 Devices for hairdressing

The following devices are most often used for hairdressing work.

Spray bottle - for wetting hair when cutting and styling, as well as applying various lotions that create volume to the hairstyle.

Bowls - for preparing dyes, fixatives for perms and other hair care products.

Brushes - for diluting and applying dyes and other preparations.

Shaker - for mixing dyes.

Sponges - for application chemical composition and fixer.

Plastic and metal clips - for dividing hair into zones and strands when cutting, styling, treating and coloring.

Insulating cap used for perm and hair treatment.

A mask used to fix the hairstyle.

They also use a timer, special collars, caps for highlighting hair, beakers, rubber gloves and much more.

2.2 Technology for modern haircuts

2.2.1 Haircut using styling and color from CiroApicella

Highlight the parietal area with a circular zigzag parting.

Starting from the back of the head, select large sections of hair and cut them using the slicing technique.

Using the trimmed section as a guide, continue cutting around the entire perimeter of the hairstyle.

Move to the crown and select a guide strand. 6

Trim the hair at the crown, gradually reducing its length to give the hairstyle a light look.

Once you've finished cutting, dry your hair.

Then work the ends of your hair with the tips of your scissors to create more airiness.

2.2.2 Style for every day

"Daily" - style - an idea for every day. The clear geometric lines of the hairstyle are designed to emphasize the decisiveness of character.

Select vertical sections of 2 cm each on two levels of the hairstyle.

Having formed vertical sections, trim the hair from the back of the head using the “slicing” technique.

Trim the frontal hair from ear to ear.

If necessary, trim the strands at the back of the head again and comb the hair of the sections left untouched.

Our choice is blonde with all its shades, from neutral to platinum, from copper to gold. Original combinations of warm tones that emphasize the clarity of the lines will help to add additional dynamics to the hairstyle.

2.2.3 Grotesque

Start cutting from the back of the head. Separate the strands with horizontal partings and pull them at an angle of 20°.

Trim the temple areas in the same way.

Using the “ponting” method, cut the hair of the parietal zone, separating the strands with vertical partings.

Perform final thinning.

2.2.4 Haircut with zigzag bangs

Treat the hair of the temporolateral zone, pulling it to the side perpendicular to the surface of the head, using the “pointcut” technique, and then move to the occipital zone and cut it to the middle.

Treat the opposite side of the head in the same way.

Connect the hair with the hair of the frontal parietal zone using the zigzag technique.

You can also decorate your bangs using the zigzag technique.

Edging the back of the head.

2.2.5 Sports haircut

On the parietal area, separate the strand and set its length. This strand will be the control. Then trim the parietal and lateral areas.

The occipital and temporolateral areas should be cut with vertical partings. The occipital area can be cut “to nothing” or left slightly elongated for greater pomp.

Make a border, the length of the hair behind the ears is optional.

Wet the hair well and cut using the sliding technique under a comb with a razor over the entire head.

Use simple scissors to process the entire hairstyle using a jagged, uneven cut. The resulting effect of a difference in hair length makes cutting easier. Create a “ruffy” effect using the same cutting technique. Blow-dry the haircut. You can use gel for styling.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we summarize the main results of the course work.

Thanks to the emerging new silhouettes and forms of haircuts and hairstyles, a person gains hope of meeting the criteria of modern fashion.

In the process of writing my course work, I studied new methods used in modern haircuts.

Based on the studied material, the following conclusions can be drawn.

In my opinion, taking into account the advantages and disadvantages of the client’s face, you can choose a haircut for him using any of the described haircut methods. And this haircut will delight him with its novelty and originality.

In my opinion, progress in hairdressing is possible thanks to the use of completely new modern methods doing haircuts.

Bibliography

1. O.N. Kuleshova, O.B. Iltaeva, T.N. Butko “Basics of hairstyle design” - M., 2004.

2. E. Kurmanaevskaya. “Your own hairdresser.” – Rostov-on-Don, 2004.

3. N.G. Moiseev. "The Art of Hair" - Rostov-on-Don, 2004.

4. Catalog of hairstyles “Estetica” No. 1/2005 (15).

Pointcut - a point-toothed cut from the ends of the hair to the middle (for thinning).

Polishing is a point-toothed cut from the middle of the strand to the ends.

Pointing - a sliding serrated cut from the middle of the hair to the ends (with straight scissors):

- ponting - a jagged cut sliding from the ends of the hair to the middle onto a dry one (a more obtuse angle);
- pancrotizing - a sliding serrated cut from the ends of the hair to the middle, from dry to wet hair (sharper).

Sliding is a sliding cut with straight scissors from the roots of the hair to its ends, angle - 30 - 60.

When styling hair up, slicing is done from the outside, and down - from the inside.

Modern haircut techniques

Geometric - geometric shapes, details, cutting according to hair.

Corridors are not connecting parts. It is cut using straight scissors. Corridors come in different lengths and can be parallel or staggered.

Non-connecting connected parts - not connected in form, but connected in image.

Control strand

Having chosen a haircut, the first thing you need to do is set the length of the hair, cutting off the first strand, along which the rest are then aligned (or, conversely, not aligned, but made shorter or longer). This strand is called the control strand. For different haircuts, the number of control strands may be different. But the technology is the same in any case. After the control strand is separated, the next strand is taken, capturing partially or completely the hair of the control strand, and cut at the desired level. The figure shows how hair is combed to the control strand in different parts of the head. (Appendix C Fig. 1).

This is a technique of holding (pulling) strands in a certain position in relation to the head. The pull can be done at different angles. This means that a strand of hair makes an angle of the specified number of degrees with the surface of the head. A slight pull of each subsequent strand by 10-15° creates the effect of hair curling upward. In this case, each subsequent strand is cut at the level of the previous one.

With a 90° pull, the strand should be perpendicular to the head.

The pull is the main technique when modeling a haircut. By increasing or decreasing the tension of the strands, you adjust their length and create the silhouette of your hairstyle.

Removing finger hair

Tools: straight scissors, comb. Performed on both wet and dry hair.

Sequence of the technique: parietal area, crown, temples, back of the head. Removing hair on the fingers is one of the main techniques in all modern haircuts. This technique must be used:

- if you need to shorten too long hair before the main haircut;
- when performing a control haircut, the purpose of which is to remove individual hairs that violate the haircut pattern. (Appendix C Fig. 3).

When performing the technique, you need to stand behind the client, insert the comb into the hair from the side of his face and move it towards you. The essence of the technique is to shorten the hair all over the head. In this case, the length of the strand is set once, and subsequent ones are oriented towards it. To do this, when combing a new strand, you need to grab some of the hair from the previous one and cut the hair at its level. First, you need to comb out a strand of hair 2-3 cm thick, hold it between your index and middle fingers under the comb. Then, pulling the strand perpendicular to the head, insert the comb upward and then move the fingers squeezing it. Stop the movement of the fingers, just short of reaching the intended cut line. The comb should be brought to the end of the hair and removed. Cut the hair by guiding the scissors along the fingers holding the strand. For thick hair, the thickness of the strand is 0.5-1.0 cm. For hair lengths of more than 20 cm, the removal method is used with your fingers or with a comb. The first cut strand is the control one. The next ones cut, capturing all or part of it.

Removing hair with a comb

Tools: straight scissors, combination comb. Performed on both wet and dry hair.

Used for short haircuts. Sequence of the technique: parietal area, crown, temples, back of the head.

With just scissors and a comb, you can make any haircut, including a very short one, using the hair removal technique with a comb. This technique is used when long hair has already been cut so that the length of the strands does not exceed 3 cm.

A comb with very fine teeth should be inserted into the hair, holding it at an angle of 30-40° and trying to hold the hair perpendicular to the head. The scissors should be held parallel to the comb. The comb is moved against the hair growth and the hair is cut off while it is in a vertical position. (Appendix C Fig. 4).

Reducing hair to nothing

Tools: combination comb, straight scissors, straight razor, safety razor. Performed on both wet and dry hair. The sequence of the technique: from the hairline on the neck up and from the hairline on the temples up to the frontal area. This technique is used to create a smooth transition from short hair on the back of the head and temples to longer hair in the upper occipital and frontal zones. It can be done with either scissors or a straight razor. When performing the technique, gradually and smoothly increase the length of the strands from the shortest on the neck to longer hair in the parietal zone. Performing a technique with scissors. Insert the comb into the hair to the roots at the very bottom of the occipital area and cut the hair from the tips of the comb teeth with the tips of scissors. The comb should be held at an angle of 30-45° to the hair roots. If your hair is long, you first need to cut it off on your fingers to 3-5 cm, and then start reducing it to nothing. When performing this technique, first move from bottom to top and to the right. Then you need to comb your hair in a different direction and cut off any protruding strands. Then they move from bottom to top to the left, etc. This operation is repeated several times. With each higher and higher horizontal line, you can increase the length of the hair on the back of your head. To do this, the hair must be cut not from the tips of the comb teeth, but from their middle, and not from the tips of the scissors, but from their middle part, etc. You can increase the angle of the comb relative to the head if you want to get a smooth transition to longer hair . (Appendix C Fig. 5).

Performing a technique with a straight razor. Usually, a razor is used to reduce the hair of the lower occipital area when cutting a short haircut. Here the upper limit is the line of greatest volume of haircut. It runs approximately from the top of one ear to the top of the other along the convex part of the back of the head. The hair in this area is first combed at an angle of 45° relative to the vertical parting in one direction and cut off, alternating the movements of the comb and razor. Then the same operation is repeated, combing the hair at the same 45° angle in the other direction. When performing the technique, the razor is pressed almost flat against the hair. However, since the goal is to gradually reduce the length of the hair and eliminate it at the edge of the back of the head, the pressure of the razor must be increased as it moves down.

Tools: scissors or razor (used on wet hair), comb. It is performed with scissors on both wet and dry hair, and with a razor on wet hair. Shading is the final stage, fine-tuning the method of reducing hair “to nothing” to a perfectly smooth polished surface. Its goal is to ensure a smooth transition from long to short hair, to create the effect of “varnished” hair. The technique here is the same as when reducing hair to nothing with scissors or a razor. The difference lies in more careful elaboration. To perform this technique, it is better to take a comb with very fine teeth and work with the tips of scissors. The scissors should be held slightly diagonally in relation to the comb. If the technique is performed with a razor, then the latter should be very sharp. When performing shading near the neck, you can resort to the “cutting” method. To do this, insert the comb from below into the hair on the neck and lift it perpendicular to the head. Using a very sharp razor, the blade of which should be at a slight (15-20°) angle to the comb, cut off any stray hairs. The razor should move perpendicular to the comb teeth. (Appendix C Fig. 6).

Thinning

Tools: thinning scissors, straight scissors, straight razor, comb. It is performed with scissors on both dry and wet hair, and with a razor only on wet hair. Thinning is thinning the hair. The essence of the technique is to cut individual strands at different heights. Thinning can solve various problems: creating a specific haircut silhouette (modelling), preserving the hairstyle, and also giving the haircut a natural look. Thinning is performed at the roots, at the ends of the hair and at different heights of the strands. Increasing hair volume. To increase the volume of the hairstyle, root thinning is done. It is performed by plucking hair from the parietal and upper occipital zones. To perform the technique, comb the strand with a wide-toothed comb, lift the strand up and, after 0.5-1 cm, pluck out individual thin strands with the tips of the scissors (after 1-2 intertooth intervals). The length of the strand is 2-4 cm depending on the length of the haircut. Thinning the ends of the hair. It is recommended to file the ends of the hair in almost all haircuts - this gives the hairstyle a natural look. Thinning the ends of the hair can be done with straight scissors, thinning scissors, a straight razor or a thinning razor. Hair is cut with both straight and oblique cuts. Nowadays, thinning performed using the pointing technique, as well as slicing, are becoming increasingly popular. To perform the technique, take strands 1.5-2 cm thick and 3-5 cm long and work with thinning scissors. They are closed at a distance of approximately 2 cm from the ends of the hair strands. This operation is done several times depending on the thickness of the hair. Thinning with straight scissors. First, pull off a strand of hair. Then open the scissors and bring them approximately to the middle of the strand. You need to slightly bring the working blades of the scissors together and at the same time quickly move them towards the ends of the hair. Do not close the scissors, otherwise you can cut off the strand. (Appendix C Fig. 7).

Thinning hair with a thinning razor. There is a special tool for thinning. They are very easy to work with. The razor is drawn along the raised strand from the roots or from the middle of the strand (depending on the thickness of the hair) to the ends of the hair. The razor should be held almost parallel to the strand. Repeat the movement 4-5 times. Thinning hair with a straight razor. This technique significantly improves the quality of the haircut. With its help, you can increase the volume of your hair, especially in the crown and back of the head, even with thin hair. Thinning hair with a razor is done only on damp hair. With one hand you need to grab a strand of hair and pull it to the desired angle. The thicker the hair, the closer to the roots you can start thinning. At the beginning of the technique, the razor blade is pressed flat against the hair. Having brought the razor to the intended hair cut, you need to increase its angle. The movement is repeated 2-3 times, if more pomp is needed - 3-5 times.

Thinning hair with straight scissors. Thinning your hair improves the appearance of your hair. The scissors must be held parallel to the hair. You can work either with the entire length of the working blades - you will get deep thinning - or with part of it. Thinning long hair. To thin out long hair, you need to comb out the strand and remove the hair using the same techniques, only from the palm side. The depth of thinning may vary depending on the purpose. Usually it ranges from 2 cm to 1/3 of the length of the strand. Thinning allows the master to create hairstyles in accordance with his design, without resorting to additional means. Thinning for long hair can be done along the entire length of the working blade of the scissors. (Appendix C, Fig. 8) Thinning using the pointing technique. In modern haircuts, hairdressers try to use techniques that allow them to create an original shape. One of these techniques is pointing - a haircut performed using the pointing technique. Thanks to the oblique cut and teeth, the hair lies perfectly, and after washing it is sometimes enough to dry it slightly with a hairdryer - and the hairstyle takes on a beautiful look.

Haircut is one of the most complex species work in hairdressing. After all, the appearance of the future hairstyle depends on how well it is done.

When performing haircuts, a hairdresser must be able to use various hair treatment methods.

Before making a haircut, it is necessary to correctly divide the hair into strands with partings, which will determine the shape of the future haircut. Partings can be horizontal, vertical, radial and radial.

Horizontal partings are partings located parallel to the plane of the floor.

Vertical partings are partings directed perpendicular to the floor.

Radial The partings run at an angle of 45° to the vertical or horizontal partings and allow you to get the maximum increase in hair length when cutting.

Radiation partings are partings that come out from one point.

All haircuts can be divided into contrasting and non-contrasting.

Basically haircuts are contrasting, i.e. These are haircuts in which the hair has different lengths on different parts of the head.

At low-contrast In haircuts, hair is left the same length on different parts of the head.

Each type of haircut consists of separate technical operations. Depending on the specific model, the following methods and haircut techniques can be used when cutting.

Modern methods and techniques for cutting hair

Modern methods of thinning with scissors

1. Zigzag saw method. The strand is pulled perpendicular to the head, the scissors are held vertically and the required length of hair is cut in a zigzag.

2. Injection method. The strand is pulled perpendicular to the head, and the ends of the scissors make point cuts of individual hairs, creating an undercoat.

3. Tweezing method. Can be done with the ends of scissors in a sliding motion both above and below the fingers.

4. Sliding cut. It is performed with thinning scissors, which seem to glide smoothly through the hair.

5. Thinning along a twisted strand. A small strand is twisted with a flagellum and cut in several places with the ends of scissors.

6. Backcombing method. The strand is perpendicular to the head, the open blades of the scissors are inserted into it and a movement is performed from top to bottom.

Thinning with a razor

Tumirovka. The comb is positioned with the teeth up and combs hair. The razor moves parallel to the comb in the opposite direction.

Slip. The hair is combed out with a comb, the razor glides smoothly through the hair towards the ends.

Backcomb method. The strand is positioned perpendicular to the head, the razor moves from the ends to the roots, imitating a backcomb (with a flagellum).

Blunt razor cut. On the twisted strand, we pull small strands perpendicularly, twist them into a rope, and cut off the ends with a razor.

Modern hair treatment methods

Pointcat(point cut) -- a point-toothed cut from the ends of the hair to the middle (for thinning).

Polishing-- a point-toothed cut from the middle of the strand to the ends.

Pointing-- sliding serrated cut from the middle of the hair to the ends (straight scissors):

Ponting is a jagged cut sliding from the ends of the hair to the middle to a dry one (more obtuse angle);

Pancrotizing is a sliding serrated cut from the ends of the hair to the middle on dry hair (can be done on wet hair) (sharper).

Slicing(clithing) - a sliding cut with straight scissors from the roots of the hair to its ends, angle - 30-60°.

When styling hair up, slicing is done from the outside, and down - from the inside.

Modern haircut techniques

Neo-minimalism -- simple haircuts with straight scissors, without jagged cuts or thinning. A minimum of details and a simple shape (square).

Geometric-- geometric shapes, details, cutting according to hair.

Corridors-- non-connecting parts. It is cut using straight scissors. Corridors come in different lengths and can be parallel or staggered.

Non-Mating Connected Parts-- not connected in form, but connected in image.

Factors influencing the choice of haircut

1. Head and face shape. Due to the fact that the shapes of men's and women's heads are different, haircuts also differ: angular lines predominate in men's haircuts, and rounded ones predominate in women's haircuts.

2. Dimensions. Shoulder width, height, build, etc.

3. Hair growth boundary. In men, for example, the border of hair growth on the neck is lower than in women, and the frontal notches are more pronounced.

4. Type and characteristics of hair growth. Most often, difficulties in performing a haircut are observed on the top of the head, in the frontal and occipital parts of the head.

6. Forehead height. For example, a high forehead must be covered with bangs.

8. The width of the back of the head. A triangular edging of hair on the neck visually reduces the width of the back of the head, while a straight edging increases it.