Pants are an integral part of a woman's wardrobe. Not surprising, because this is a very comfortable and practical thing that can be worn not only to special occasions or to the office, but also to create a huge number of looks.
In today's article we will look at a pattern of trousers in a classic style that will suit any figure. They will look equally elegant on both a young girl and an overweight one. elderly woman. Only the latter will need to cover her hips by wearing a long blouse or jacket on top.
As an example, the calculation and construction of a drawing of trousers will be made on a figure with the following:
Loose Fit Distribution (CO)
to measure SB = 1 cm
to measure ST = 1 cm
Constructing a pattern for the front half of classic women's trousers
1. Draw a vertical line with its vertex at point T, from which the following values are plotted down:
Waist line level: TT 1 = 1-1.5 cm (the value depends on the shape of the hips).
Seat depth: TY = BC measurement = 27 cm.
Pants length to the knee line: TK = measurement DtK = 58 cm.
Or YAK = 1/2 ДШ 1 – 1/10 ДШ 1, where
DS 1 = DsB – BC = 104 cm - 27 cm = 77 cm
Pants length: TN = DsB measurement – 2-3 cm (the amount by which in our example the trousers are shortened to the required length according to the model) = 104 cm – 2 cm = 102 cm.
How to determine the amount by which you need to shorten or lengthen your trousers, see.
Position of the hip line: YB = 1/3 TY = 1/3 27 cm = 9 cm.
Through points T 1, B, Z, K, H, draw horizontal lines to the right.
2. Width of the front half of the trousers at hip level: BB 1 = 1/2 (SB + CO) – 1 cm = 1/2 (50 cm + 1 cm) – 1 cm = 24.5 cm.
3. Draw a vertical through point B 1, at the intersection with the horizontal lines we get points T 2, I 1.
4. Step width of the front half of the trousers: I 1 I 2 = 1/10 (SB + CO) = 1/10 (50 cm + 1 cm) = 5.1 cm.
5. The position of the fold line (“arrow”) is determined by dividing the segment YaYa 2 in half, we get Ya 3, through which draw a vertical line from waist level to the bottom. At the intersection we get points K 1 and H 1.
6. Along the waist line from T 2, set aside a bevel amount equal to 0-1-1.5 cm to the left, depending on the value of the waist circumference (the lower the OT value, the larger the amount set aside) or the shape of the trousers.
T 2 T 3 = 1 cm.
A bevel measuring 0 cm is taken for figures with a belly and for striped or checkered fabrics.
7.Constructing a bow line(middle line): connect B 1 and Z 2 with a straight line, divide the segment in half (point A); connect A and Z 1, divide in half (point A 1).
Draw a line for the bow of the trousers by connecting points T 3, B 1, A 1, Z 2.
8. To calculate the waist darts of trousers, find the difference between the SB and ST measurements, taking into account their freedom of fit. When calculating, you should also take into account the size of the bevel at the waist, if it was provided (in our example, it was 1 cm for the front and back halves of the trousers).
(SB + CO) – (ST + CO) - bevel = (50 cm + 1 cm) – (38 cm + 1 cm) – (1 cm + 1 cm) = 10 cm
10 cm / 2 = 5 cm - the sum of the waist darts of the trousers, which is divided into:
- 1/3 5 cm = 2 cm – waist dart of the front half of the trousers;
- 2/3 5 cm = 3 cm – waist dart of the back half of the trousers.
9. Width of the front half at waist level: T 3 T 4 = 1/2 (ST + CO) + 2 cm dart = 1/2 (38 cm + 1 cm) + 2 cm = 21.5 cm.
10. Side seam extension: T 4 T 5 = T 1 T = 1-1.5 cm.
11. Width of trousers at the bottom: H 1 H 2 = H 1 H 3 = 1/2 WN – 1 cm = 1/2 20 cm – 1 cm = 9 cm.
To make it easier to process the bottom of the trousers with a hem seam, from points H 2 and H 3, draw perpendiculars 4-8 cm long upward, we get O and O 1.
12. Connect straight line B and O, at the intersection with the knee line we get a point from which we put 1 cm to the right. Point K 2 is obtained.
Level the width of the front half of the trousers along the knee line (from the fold to the right and left). To do this, from K 1 to the right, set aside the value of the segment K 2 K 1.
K 2 K 1 = K 1 K 3.
Note. The width of the trousers along the knee line is determined by the model; it can be equal to the width of the trousers at the bottom, or it can be more or less, but in any case it should be no less than the girth of the knee, taking into account the increase for a loose fit.
13.Side cut drawn up by connecting points T 5, B, I 4 with a convex smooth line, points I 4, K 2 - with a smooth concave line, which turns into a straight line, descending to point O.
14.Step cut the front half of the trousers is designed from I 2 to K 3 with a smooth concave curve and further to O 1 with a straight line.
15. The bottom line is drawn from point H 2 to H 3 in a smooth curve with a deflection in the middle. H 1 H 6 = 0.5 cm.
The bottom line can also be left horizontal: if the fabric is checkered or striped, for fabrics that are unruly when ironed.
16. The dart of the front half of classic trousers is built on the fold line with a 2 cm gap, 8-9 cm long. The sides of the dart are aligned along the larger side and create a beautiful waist line.
When sewing, the dart can be folded rather than sewn down.
Constructing a pattern for the back half of classic women's trousers
1. Extension at the level of the knee and bottom: K 4 K 2 = K 3 K 5 = 2 cm, H 4 H 2 = H 3 H 5 = 2 cm.
2.Constructing a seat line(middle line): from B 1 to the left, set aside 3 cm (constant value), we get B 2, from which upward restore the perpendicular B 2 B 3 = 1/10 (SB - 1 cm) = 1/10 49 cm = 4.9 cm.
Connect points I 1 and B 3, extend the straight line upward. Measure segment B 1 T 3 on the front of the trousers and set aside its value from point B 3 upwards.
B 3 T 6 = B 1 T 3.
3. Seat line deviation: T 6 T 7 = 1 cm.
4. Width at seat level: I 2 I 5 = I 1 I 2.
5. Auxiliary points: A 1 A 2 = Z 5 Z 6 = 1 cm.
6. The seat line is drawn through points T 7, B 3, A 2, Z 6.
7. From point B 3 to the hip line, make a notch: B 3 B 4 = (SB + CO) – BB 1 = (50 cm + 1 cm) – 24.5 cm = 26.5 cm.
8. To construct the waist line, find point T 8 at the intersection of two arcs:
- the first from point B 4 with a radius equal to the segment BT 5;
- the second from T 7 to the left with a radius equal to 1/2 (ST + CO) + 3 cm dart = 1/2 39 cm + 3 cm = 22.5 cm
Connect points T 7 and T 8 with a straight line.
9. From points H 4 and H 5, draw up perpendiculars with a length similar to that on the front half of the trousers (4-8 cm), we get O 2 and O 3.
10. Connect B 4, K 4, we get I 7.
Create a side cut through points T 8, B 4, I 7 with a convex smooth line, points I 7, K 4 - with a smooth concave line, which turns into a straight line, descending to point O 2.
11.Step cut form from I 6 to K 5 with a smooth concave curve and further to O 3 with a straight line.
12. The dart of the back half of classic trousers is built in the middle of the segment T 7 T 8, its opening is 3 cm, length 10-13 cm.
13. Draw a horizontal bottom line through points H 4, H 5.
Is there a more versatile piece of clothing than trousers? They are appropriate for almost any situation, and there are many ways to make them part of a dressy or casual ensemble. So, what fabrics, styles and cuts are trending today? We invite you to take a look at the most fashionable women's trousers for the fall-winter season.
1. Leather pants
Slim fit is still very fashionable, so for fall and winter, look no further than Robert Rodriguez's soft lambskin trousers.
2. Skinny jeans
As for jeans, the classic straight cut remains relevant. Skinny black jeans from Y's by Yohji Yamamoto look amazing, don't they?
3. Printed leggings
If you've ditched leather from your wardrobe, you can still create a stunningly sexy look with Maison Martin Margiela's mesh print knit leggings.
4. Cropped jeans with cuffs
To draw attention to expensive fashionable ankle boots, opt for cuffed jeans from Dolce & Gabbana.
5. Wide pants
Add an element of glamor and trendiness to a boring office ensemble by adding Aminaka Wilmont trousers. A fitted top and a narrow belt go well with them.
Just like A-line skirts, cigarette pants never go out of style. Proof of this is the Samantha model from the Michael Kors brand.
Pants from Proenza Schouler will be a good choice. Their advantages are the central seam in the front, narrow cut and original colors.
8. Skinny jeans
Show off your feminine figure with these fitted Bolen skinny jeans from Twenty8Twelve.
9. Capris with zippers
Capris from Dsquared2 will become the basis of the ideal urban look. They are made from a cotton and silk blend which makes them very comfortable.
10. Jeans with an original pattern
If you want to create an extravagant look, pay attention to the charming jeans from Dolce & Gabbana, decorated with spectacular stripes.
11. PVC leggings
Want to look like Lindsay Lohan? To do this, you should buy eye-catching leggings from Les Chiffoniers.
12. Low-Rise Flare Pants
Versace's elegant black flared pants are very tempting and can easily become your go-to for the new season.
13. Satin stretch pants
Stretch satin trousers, created by Italian designer Alberta Ferretti, are very versatile as they can be the basis of many dressy and casual looks.
14. Riding trousers
Fashionistas who enjoy equestrian sports will appreciate stylish trousers from Dolce & Gabbana.
— tight trousers or jeans, ranging from pencil legs to jeggings (jeans + leggings) are still very popular.
And it’s an illusion that skinny jeans are only suitable for skinny people!
Look at Kim Kardashian, Rihanna and Sofia Vergara looking very attractive in them. Skinnies in different interpretations, colors, textures and details can be found at 7 For All Mankind, Balmain, Burberry, Chanel, Dsquared, J Brand, Notify, Roberto Cavalli, Victoria Beckham Denim, True Religion, Black Orchid - and count on the fact that Fortunately, they won’t disappear anytime soon.
Jeggings, unlike leggings, do not require covering our butt, which gives us freedom in choosing the top part of our wardrobe.
CARGO
According to fashion experts, 2010 was marked by Houlihan jeans from J Brand, which were sold out across America and Europe with incredible excitement! It was this model of jeans that Gwen Stefani, Renne Zellweger, Gwyneth Paltrow, Charlize Theron, Eva Longoria, Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker, Fergie, Cindy Crawford and many, believe me, many others were seen wearing. Good things do not disappear without a trace.
And in 2011, many designers picked up this trend, slightly expanding and evolving it in their collections:
7 For All Mankind, Balmain, Black Orchid, Current/Elliott, Dsquared, J Brand, Stella McCartney, True Religion, Work Custom. This season, a new, no less delightful beige has been added to the already popular olive and gray colors of cargo jeans. 
All models are modeled on the same basic pattern - narrow, tight trousers.
The pattern was created using the Muller and Son method.
Size 44. Hip circumference 88-92cm. The remaining sizes are constructed in the same way.
Increases
From the photo you can see that the trousers are very form-fitting. This means you need to sew them only from elastic fabrics, otherwise you will not be able to sit down or lift your leg in them. We do not make any increases in fit, even negative ones. We take the measurements as they are.
We make the necessary calculations
Dsh - Step length. Lsh=Dsb-Vs=106-25=80cm
Vk - Knee height. Vk=Lsh/2 - Lsh/10 = 80/2 - 80/10 = 32cm
Shpb - the width of the front half. Shpb = OB/4 - 1 = 92/4 - 1 = 22cm
Shzb - the width of the rear half. Shzb = OB/1 + 1 = 92/4 + 1 = 24cm.
Shzb/4 = 24/4 = 6cm.
Building a pattern for the basis of skinny trousers
From this base you can later model and sew any tight denim or leather trousers.
Grid drawing 1
1-3 Seat height. Sun=25cm
3-4 Knee height Vk=32cm
1-5 Length of trousers on the side (with heels) DSB=106cm
5-6 Ankle level. The difference between Dsb - Dsh = 106-96 = 10 cm. If desired, you can make trousers ankle-length or knee-length. In my case, I won’t do anything, I want ones like the ones in the photo, long ones.
3-7 Hip line. OB/20 + 3cm = 92/20 + 3 = 7.6cm
From points 2, 7, 3, 4, 5, draw perpendicular lines to the right.
7-8 Width of the front half of the trousers Shpb=22cm
8-9 Step width of the front half of the trousers OB/20 + 0.5 (for all sizes) = 92/20+0.5=5.1 cm
Draw a perpendicular through point 8, place points 8a and 10 at the intersections.
This is what we have, drawing 1:
Constructions for drawing 2
11 half of the segment 7-9
Through point 11, draw an arrow line upward - we get points 13 and 14.
12-15 and 12-16 1/4 The width of the bottom of the trousers minus 0.5 cm. 21/4 - 0.5 = 4.8 cm
15a-16a lower the perpendiculars down to the bottom line.
7-15a and 9-16a Draw the side and step lines. We get 17, 18, 19 at the intersection.
from 8 to the right set aside 0.5 cm.
8a - 8b copy half of segment 8a-17. Connect points 8b and 17 with an auxiliary straight line.
Draw a smooth cut line for the bow, see drawing 2.
Extend the bow line and draw a straight line perpendicular to it. This straight line will intersect the waist line at a distance of 5 cm from the arrow line.
20-21 OT/4+1cm = 68/4+1=18cm
21-22 = 1-2 In our case, 1.5 cm. Cut the waist with a smooth line.
Make a side cut by connecting 22 and 7.
18-23 and 19-24 tapers depending on the desired shape of the trousers.
23-24 Should equal 2* (1/4 Width at the knee minus 0.5 cm). 2*(34/4-0.5)=16cm.
Back half. Constructions for drawing 3
We construct the rear half using the drawing of the front part.
11-25 arrow offset on the back half of the trousers - 2 cm.
25-26 Shzb/4+0.5cm = 6+0.5=6.5cm
26-27 straight segment. From point 26, restore the perpendiculars up and down.
Drawing 4
Extend the waist and hip lines to the left and right.
28-29 Line of the hips of the back half of the trousers. The line is equal to Шзб-1cm=24-1=23cm. It is parallel to the segment 26-27 and perpendicular to 28-36, should cross the line of the hips of the front half.
25-30 = 25-29 = 17.3cm
Along the bottom line, put 1 cm to the right and left from the side lines, and also on the knee line. Draw a side line and a step line, getting points 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a.
From 32, through 29, draw a straight line until it intersects with the waist line - we get 35.
Connect 30 and 31.
13-36 = segment (13-35) + 3cm = 61.3cm. At the intersection with the line of the rear middle cut we get 36.
35-36 connect.
Drawing 5
37-38 OT/4 - 1cm +1.5cm (tuck) = 68/4-1+1.5=17.5cm
Draw a perpendicular in the middle of segment 37-38 and place a back dart 1.5 cm long, 8-10 cm long, on its sides.
From 38, draw a short perpendicular upward.
Copy the side cut line of the front half, align it along the hip line of the back half and, turning, find the intersection with the perpendicular from point 38. Leave it like that - you get a line for the side seam of the back.
Shape the waist line.
31-39 Length of the back half crotch seam. 0.5 cm shorter than the length of the front crotch.
37-39 Draw a line for the middle cut of the back half of the trousers. 
Here is the pattern we need for modeling - the basis of fitted trousers
Modeling the pattern
Let's model navy suede trousers from Balmain.
Lower the waistline 2 cm down. Draw a belt line, width 4 cm.
On the base pattern we apply the position and size of the welt pockets “in the frame”. Width 15mm, length 12cm. Don't forget about pockets and piping for a 2cm wide pocket.
We draw lines of relief seams, randomly, approximately as on the original. My model is already sewn, so you can apply it like mine.
We draw a yoke line on the back, the width along the middle line is 6-7cm.
We make a dart on the back half. It is needed so that the tissue under the gluteal fold fits well to the body and does not sag. The tuck width is 1.5-2cm. But it can only be done if the fabric stretches a little (2-5% elasticity) and when creating the base pattern you did not make negative increases for elastic fabrics.
We draw a pocket; on it we also need to draw the lines of a dart and a welt pocket “in the frame”.
In order to sew this model from leather or leatherette. the fabric will need “moment” shoe glue for leather (for some knots), threads for leather, 6 metal clasps, the material itself, a hook for trousers.
Leather should not be ironed using a damp iron. Just leave it with a very hot iron.
And now ideas from fashion designers!
Despite the fact that flared trousers and straight-cut models are now actively gaining popularity, skinny trousers are still in trend and are not going to give up their positions. Such trousers, successfully fitting into the look you create, perfectly emphasize the slender legs and femininity of the figure. But only if they are chosen correctly.
Who are they going to?
Ideally, tapered trousers are best worn only by girls with slim figure. Tight-fitting pants can focus attention on problems in the abdomen and hips, emphasizing the presence excess weight or short stature. But any shortcomings can be corrected with other correctly selected wardrobe elements.
For example, it is advisable for short girls to combine tight trousers with high-heeled shoes. Stylists advise choosing shoes of the same color as your pants to visually elongate your silhouette.
Those with curvy hips can hide this flaw with a loose top. Also in this case, you should avoid low-rise pants. Stylists advise women with curvy figures to choose models in dark shades, since light colors will emphasize your fullness. You can also buy pants made of stretch fabric that will fit your figure and visually correct it.
What should the length be?
When choosing the perfect tapered pants, it is important to find the correct length of the pants. The bottom edge of the legs of tapered trousers usually barely covers the ankle. This is a classic option that suits almost all girls.
Slightly shortened models are also popular, for example, 7\8 long. Short, high-waisted skinny jeans look good. But remember that if you consider your short height to be a problem, then it is better not to buy such trousers, because they can make you visually shorter by a few more centimeters.
Popular models
Despite the fact that all tapered trousers seem to be the same type and similar to each other, there are different models that differ from each other.
This season, high-waisted trousers are back in fashion. High-waisted pants are suitable for girls with a good figure, which these trousers will highlight. Don't forget about cropped pants. Lightweight chinos in bright colors often appear both on the streets and in the collections of fashion designers. And the combination of a short length with a high waist, although not suitable for everyone, is now at the peak of popularity.
Ripped trousers are also trendy. Both models with a large number of slits and discreet pants with holes in the knees look impressive.
Active girls will definitely love tight sweatpants. Models made from stretch fabric in your own way appearance resemble leggings or leggings. They do not restrict movement and go well with any loose top.
Summer skinny trousers
For hot summer weather, tapered pants made of thin fabric are suitable. It can be either cotton, light chiffon or even satin, which will make your look more elegant.
To be the center of attention while relaxing, choose interesting models in rich, bright colors. In the summer, you don’t have to limit yourself by buying pants with any patterns, interesting appliqués, stripes and other decorative elements.
Classic cut
Tapered trousers with a classic cut look very stylish and businesslike. They will perfectly complement an office outfit without violating the dress code established by the company. Classic trousers are usually made from thick cotton or suit fabric. Dark trousers or trousers in pastel shades go well with a business outfit. The combination of a lighter top with a dark bottom looks harmonious.
If you want to make your legs visually longer and slimmer, choose models with arrows. Tight trousers with creases are worn with shirts, blouses and blouses. You can also use simple plain tops or turtlenecks as a top, adding a jacket, blazer or jacket on top.
Current colors
Color scheme is another important factor to consider when purchasing pants. True, basically, the choice of color depends on what kind of looks you plan to create based on tapered trousers. After all, this season both classic monochrome and bright colors are relevant.
Black
A timeless classic is the skinny black trousers, which have a place in every girl’s wardrobe. Pants made of any material look good in black, from cotton and denim to leather and latex.
White
Another classic option is white pants. They are less popular due to the color being soiled. But you can’t ignore this version of pants, because such a neutral base is well suited for creating fashionable looks. Cotton white trousers are perfect for summer. However, keep in mind that light-colored pants make you look fatter.
Gray
A compromise option for those who for some reason do not like White color, the pants will become gray. This color has many shades that you can experiment with to create interesting sets. The neutral shade allows you to create looks in any style: from office to street.
Beige
Pants in pastel colors, such as beige, look feminine. Beige trousers made of silk or satin will look stylish. This model will give your image a discreet sexuality.
Prints and patterns
Also this season there are fashionable and bright prints. Unusual colors will add a bright note to your look. True, such a colorful bottom is best combined with a calm, restrained top. Pants in more classic colors, such as checkered or polka dots, will also look interesting.
What to wear with it?
Tapered trousers are a versatile outfit that can be combined with a variety of things without fear of going overboard.
You definitely can't go wrong if you complement your skinny with a men's cut shirt or a loose T-shirt. A fitted blouse will also look appropriate in combination with skinny trousers, especially if you are happy with your curves and don’t mind emphasizing them once again.
A combination of skinny pants with a voluminous top, such as a chunky knit sweater or loose cardigan, looks good. In winter and autumn, the outfit can be complemented with medium-length coats, cropped jackets and even fur coats.
You can also choose a variety of shoes for this style of trousers. These can be either sneakers or slip-ons, which fit perfectly into sporty and casual looks, or something more elegant. You will look truly elegant and feminine when wearing high-heeled shoes. For cool weather, stylish boots or ankle boots that can easily be tucked into your trousers are also suitable.
