Manufacturers offer a wide selection of plumbing fixtures. Each model has its own and imposes certain requirements for the installation procedure. Installing a toilet yourself is possible, but only if you follow the manufacturer's recommendations. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the existing types, procedure and features of the work, so that independent installation is carried out in accordance with regulatory requirements.
In order to correctly place the key ones, you should prepare a drawing to scale on which the plumbing fixtures will be located taking into account sanitary and hygienic standards. You can create a comfortable layout by adhering to the following recommendations:
- The area in front of the toilet must be at least 60 cm long;
- A free space of at least 25 cm wide should be provided on the sides of the toilet;
- The area in front of the sink should not be narrower than 70 cm;
- The bidet and toilet should be fixed at a distance of at least 35 cm;
- It should be fixed at a height of 60÷80 cm above the floor surface, and - 95 cm.
The recommendations given are relevant for those for whom it is enough to adhere to standard standards, principles of practicality and comfort. In apartment buildings, the placement of plumbing fixtures is regulated by SNiP, which are developed taking into account the safe operation of communications. When planning to do the installation yourself, you should definitely familiarize yourself with these standards.
Basics of choosing the right toilet for your home
When choosing a suitable model, you should take into account the features. Noteworthy:
- The area of the room, which affects the dimensions of the purchased plumbing fixtures;
- Availability, geometric parameters and location of external. It should be taken into account how far it will be located from the intended installation location of the toilet cistern;
- Location of the sewer pipe;
- Release angle. The best option is to install a model with an oblique outlet. If the measurement shows a slight coincidence, you should purchase a special adapter—a drain corrugation—along with the plumbing fixtures.
Manufacturers offer plumbing fixtures of various configurations, each with its own mounting characteristics. The division can be made into floor-mounted and wall-mounted models. The latter require less space to install and have a more attractive appearance. This is a suitable option for. Floor-standing models are more reliable and practical.
- hammer;
- drill (perforator);
- yardstick;
- marker for marking;
- adjustable wrench or set;
- pliers;
- screwdriver.
It is also worth preparing:
- FUM tape;
- flexible hose;
- corrugation;
- silicone sealant with a gun.
Removing an old toilet
When dismantling, you should follow the instructions in accordance with which the installation of once new plumbing was previously carried out. Do-it-yourself toilet replacement begins with the following work:
- shut off the water supply inside the drain tank;
- drain the water inside the tank;
- unscrew the tank fasteners. If there is a large thickness of lime deposits or there is rust, use a screwdriver to fix the bolt head and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench;
- Having removed the barrel of the tank, unscrew the fasteners securing the product;
- disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If cement coating was previously used during installation, use a chisel to chip off the cement;
- Drain the remaining water from the toilet and set it aside.
Advice! After dismantling, the hole in the sewer pipe should be closed with a fabric plug to prevent it from clogging.
Preparing a new toilet for installation
Having decided to do the installation yourself, you should figure out how to assemble the toilet. Any model includes two components: a bowl and a drain tank. At the preparation stage, these parts should be connected to each other using the fasteners included in the delivery kit.
First, assemble the drain tank. To do this, a drain mechanism and a float are installed. As a rule, installing the drain mechanism is not difficult, since it is initially supplied assembled. It is inserted into a special mounting hole at the bottom and secured with a plastic nut, onto which a rubber seal is carefully placed. The tank is secured to the toilet using metal pins and nuts.
Attention! Rubber seals should be used at all connections.
A video of assembling a toilet with your own hands will allow you to better understand the sequence of work:
How to install a regular toilet with your own hands?
After the plumbing has been assembled, it is worth clarifying how to install the toilet with your own hands. The work can be performed in the following sequence:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | We mark and drill mounting holes in the floor. |
 | We remove the accumulated dirt and dust. |
 | We hammer plastic dowels into the prepared holes. |
 | We install the toilet at the place of future use and fix its spatial position with bolts. |
If you haven’t yet figured out how to do the installation yourself, a toilet installation video will help you learn all the main steps:
Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern
Models with hidden tanks allow you to use the available space more rationally. They are easy to care for and look stylish. Installation of a built-in toilet can be done in different ways. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the available methods and features of performing the work.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet with installation
First, you need to decide on the model of plumbing fixtures. Its geometric parameters will affect the requirements for the mounted system. Installation of the pendant can be performed in the following sequence:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | The height of the frame structure is adjustable. |
 | Installation of the toilet installation in a metal profile 50 mm wide and screwing it to the floor through special mounting holes. |
 | A frame system is installed to which it will be attached. |
 | Finishing material is attached. |
 | Silicone sealant is applied to the seat. |
 | The fittings included in the delivery kit are inserted into the mounting holes. |
 | The toilet is hung and fixed using the fasteners included in the delivery set. |
 | The water connection is made in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. |
Related article:
If you know the current level, it will be easier to check the value of different sales offers. The information from this article will be useful when performing installation operations with your own hands and for monitoring the actions of professional teams. In particular, they will help to correctly negotiate when determining the cost of performers’ services.
Installation of floor models
Instead of a wall-mounted model, you can install a floor-standing model with a hidden tank. A large assortment allows you to choose the right option for a toilet in any style.
The technology in this case includes the following steps:
| Photo | Description of work |
 | A niche is being prepared in which the tank will be installed. |
 | Do-it-yourself toilet installation inside a niche and fixing it. |
 | The final finishing of the wall is carried out, and the plumbing is installed in the designated place. |
The main types of fastening the toilet to the floor
Fastening to the floor can be done in different ways:
- On, installed in the screed. The hardware is placed in places corresponding to the places where the floor pan is attached, and then the screed is poured. A rather complex option that can be difficult to implement with your own hands without the help of specialists. Insufficient length of anchors may make it difficult to install the nut after installing the toilet;
- On a wooden base, the geometric parameters of which must correspond to the dimensions of the installed plumbing fixtures. Nails are first driven into the board, laid on the floor with nails down, and screed is poured. During the installation process, the toilet is “seated” on epoxy glue and screwed to a wooden base with ordinary screws;
- On the dowels. This is how a toilet is most often installed on a tiled floor. After installing the product at the site of future use, the mounting holes are marked. They should be deep enough to hold the bowl in place. To ensure secure fastening, the bowl can be installed with epoxy resin and a certain amount of sealant added to the mounting holes.
Advice! To prevent the toilet from cracking during installation, gaskets should be used during installation.
The main types of fastening the toilet to the wall
Depending on the design features of a particular model, you can install a toilet yourself using:
- Frame structure, which is a rigid frame attached to the wall and floor. The tank and pipes can be located behind a false wall;
- Block system. A more affordable and compact option that involves installation exclusively on a permanent wall. Installation is carried out in a specially prepared niche, which is then laid with bricks or blocks.
Main types of connecting a toilet to a sewer system
Various adapters are used to connect the system to the sewer. Each type has its own distinctive characteristics. We suggest you familiarize yourself with the main varieties in order to have an idea of the possible options.
Fan pipe or plastic pipe
If you decide to use an adapter, you need to know exactly the characteristics of the model that you plan to install yourself. When choosing a suitable option, special attention should be paid to the shape of the toilet bowl.
Products with an oblique outlet are mounted in the floor, with a vertical outlet - in the wall, placing the pipe at a right angle. With an oblique outlet, it is permissible to install a “wall”, placing the connecting pipe at an acute angle. When replacing plumbing fixtures, you should purchase a model with a similar release, otherwise the use of adapters becomes impossible.
Attention! When using a plastic outlet or fan pipe, changing the geometric shape of the product is unacceptable.
Eccentric
When using an eccentric collar, according to experts, it is not necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection using sealant. With the correct placement of special rubber seals, you can achieve a reliable and tight fit of the mating elements. If the pipes are cast from cast iron, it is still worth using a sealant.
Corrugation
Corrugated pipe (corrugation) is used when other materials cannot cope with the task. How to install corrugation on a toilet? After fixing the system, work is performed in the following sequence:
- One end of the corrugation is placed in the sewer hole. The joint must be lubricated with silicone sealant;
- The second end is put on the toilet outlet;
- Check the tightness of the connection.
Connecting the bathroom to the sewer is done in three ways. Each of them has its own characteristics. We suggest you find out how you can connect a toilet to a sewer and choose the most suitable option.
Bathroom with vertical outlet
Models with vertical release are especially popular in European countries. The design of such plumbing products involves the presence of a siphon located in the bowl and an outlet pipe, which is directed downward during installation. This design is universal, and toilets with vertical outlet can be installed at any angle to the vertical.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation is carried out in the following sequence:
- Markings are being made on the floor;
- A screw flange with a locking device is installed;
- A sewer pipe is mounted in the center of the flange;
- The toilet is mounted on a flange;
- The outlet pipe is fixed.
Bathroom with horizontal outlet
These products are sometimes called direct release toilets. It is most widespread in Russia. Such products have a rearward outlet. It is connected to the sewer pipe using a special cuff.
Models with a horizontal outlet are most often attached to the floor. The manufacturer provides special connection holes that allow you to attach the toilet to the floor. Dowels or standard screws are most often used as fasteners.
Advice! Fasteners should be tightened carefully so as not to damage the product.
Toilet with oblique outlet
A toilet with an oblique outlet can be connected as follows:
- Cleans the socket of a cast iron half-bend from old sealing and debris;
- The toilet is installed on a layer;
- Excess cement paste is squeezed out. It should fill the half-bend socket by at least 2 cm.
This method is currently used quite rarely, since dismantling the equipment is quite difficult. Most often, preference is given to standard anchor screws. However, some cement paste can be placed under the sole of the toilet to compensate for any unevenness.
In some cases, silicone sealant can be used instead of cement paste. However, under significant or uneven load, the sole of the product may crack.
Then, using a sealing coupling, the outlet is connected to the cast iron socket without displacement. It can be used to compensate for existing horizontal or vertical displacement. To ensure maximum tightness, silicone sealant is pre-applied to the outer surface of the coupling.
Connecting water to the toilet cistern
To ensure the supply of tap water to the drain tank, you can use one of the following methods:
- Bottom eyeliner. Such models create a minimum of noise during operation. However, if during the installation process it was possible to ensure sufficient tightness;
- Side eyeliner. They are easy to install. When doing the installation yourself, it may be the best choice due to the simplicity of the work. It creates a lot of noise when filling the tank with water. Some models come with an extended pour pitch, which reduces the amount of noise generated;
- Flexible eyeliner. Models in which the tank is located above the bowl are most often connected in this way;
- Hard eyeliner. Such a system can last quite a long time.
Connections for all types of hoses are performed in the following sequence:
- A separate tap is installed with which you can turn off the water supply. The insertion must be carried out according to all the rules;
- One end of the line is connected to the tap and secured with a special nut;
- The second end is connected to the drain tank and secured with a nut;
- The mating surfaces are checked for leaks.
How much will it cost to install a toilet: price for work
If you want to know the price for the work, installing a toilet can be done for a different amount. On average, such services will cost:
We hope you liked the article. Knowing how to properly install a toilet, you can do the entire amount of work yourself. Share in the comments how you solved this problem yourself. If you have any questions, ask. We will definitely answer.
Finally, we suggest watching a video on how to install a toilet correctly step by step.
During construction, renovation, and simply replacing plumbing, the question of how to properly install a toilet in a private home becomes a priority. Incorrect actions may result in a malfunction of the sewer system. Emergency situations are inevitable if the installation of a toilet in a private house is carried out without complying with the standards. The information given in this article on how to properly install a toilet in a private home will help you avoid mistakes when solving the problem. Of course, a plumber will deal with the problem quickly and efficiently. Nose Installing a toilet yourself in a private house will be more profitable.
Before installing a toilet in a private home, a number of preliminary steps are performed. And the first on this list is the floor plan. You cannot install a toilet in a private room without a plan. The diagram will require:
- precise measurements between location points;
- plumbing dimensions;
- type of equipment being installed.
According to plumbing standards, the distance between the wall and the device should not be less than 20 - 25 cm. The free space between the plumbing fixtures and another object is 65 cm.
Choice
Solving the question of how to install a toilet in a private house is impossible without relying on parameters common to all models. The main selection criterion is the method of fastening and the type of drain. When replacing equipment, preference is given to a product with a similar type of drain and mounting method. The entire segment is divided into 6 types:
- For dachas - a bowl without a tank and fastenings, fixed with ordinary bolts. (A necessary accessory if a drainage pit is built in a private house).
- Compact floor-standing toilet - consists of two interchangeable elements. Fixed with special fasteners included in the kit.
- Monoblock floor – one-piece design. Disadvantage: if one element breaks, a complete replacement is required.
- Attached - with a tank recessed into the wall.
- Suspended - wall installation with complex installation of a holding frame frame and a flushing mechanism.
The second in terms of characteristics is the direction of release. The term hides the method of connection to the sewer pipe. There are three gradations in the group:
- A vertical toilet outlet means that the pipe located under the floor is connected to the neck inside the product.
- An oblique toilet outlet is a connection at an angle of 45 degrees.
- The horizontal scheme involves the formation of a connecting node by inserting into the rear wall of the bathroom.
It becomes obvious that when installing a toilet with your own hands, the design model plays a major role.
Dismantling
The next stage is dismantling the old equipment.
Required Tools
Before starting the removal operation, check that you have the necessary tools. The minimum kit includes:
- hammer drill,
- drill,
- a set of keys (adjustable – a must!),
- fum tape,
- silicone sealant,
- roulette,
- building level.
Steps
Step 1. Turn off the water supply, drain the tank, drain the drain elbow.
Step 2: Remove the drain hose.
Step 3. Remove fasteners.
Step 4. Clean the joint.
Step 5. Remove the bowl and seal the hole with a lid or rag.
Cast iron sewer pipes were usually treated with a cement mixture. It will be easier to break the layer by drilling along its diameter.
The sequence of work when installing equipment directly depends on the type of outlet direction. But there are mandatory points for all types, except for complex mortise models. The instructions look like this:
- Temporary installation of a toilet with corrugation to outline the location. (It is moved to the side while drilling).
- Drilling the required holes.
- Driving in dowels with the appropriate diameter.
- Securing the toilet (pre-install the toilet permanently) and connecting to the sewer. To do this, press the pipe with the seal tightly to the sewer pipe.
- Assembly and installation of the drain tank.
- Connecting the hose to the water point.
- Checking the operation of the flushing mechanism and the tightness of the joints.
Hidden tank
Such installations are a new word in sanitary design. Modern technologies offer two options: suspended or floor-mounted. The installation of a wall-hung toilet is divided into two stages, one of which is associated with the installation of the bowl, the second is dedicated to the flush cistern.
First stage. This is where markup is of great importance. Using a building level, the main lines are drawn vertically and horizontally. Next, the suspension points are marked. Slots for anchors are drilled. The tank is hung on brackets and the water supply is connected. The sewer outlet is tightened with a plastic clamp and lubricated with silicone.
The second stage begins with the assembly of the frame covering the suspended part. A drawing of the false panel is included with the product and you just need to follow the manufacturer's instructions. The only thing worth noting is that in addition, the distance between the module and the wall surface should not be more than 200 mm. Otherwise, there will be no reliable adhesion to the surface.
Built-in modules are intended only for mounting on load-bearing walls.
Connecting elements
There are several connection methods.
Branch pipes and bends are indispensable when working with oblique bends. It is considered a practical and durable option.
The drain pipe is a guarantee of reliable operation of the water seal. Used to protect against the formation of air cushions in pipes. This point is relevant if there are a large number of water points. An analogue is a pipe with a check valve, manufactured as an integral mechanism.
The diameters of the pipe and drain outlet must be the same size.
Eccentrics - connecting cuffs with an offset axis - are successfully used. Plastic or corrugated eccentrics are a universal device for non-standard situations. Another advantage of such a coupling is the ability to be inserted directly into the sewer socket without an adapter.
The corrugation is suitable for difficult conditions. Where the discrepancy in the corners is more than 90 degrees, a corrugated cuff is indispensable.
Installation on a wooden floor
The loose wood structure is subject to risks associated with the low level of moisture resistance of the material. The constant dampness inherent in bathrooms leads to the formation of fungal mold. This is the main reason for the destruction of the floor and the displacement of sewer fittings. If it is not possible to pour a concrete floor, it is recommended to use one of two options.
Substrate
Currently, the use of substrates has practically ceased. The use of taffeta is justified and advisable only in old buildings.
To firmly secure the plumbing fixtures, self-tapping screws are screwed into the support joists installed for this purpose. Taffeta is placed on top - a stand made of a piece of timber of at least 30 mm.
To protect the wood from moisture, the stand is impregnated with drying oil and antiseptic.
The surface of the taffeta and the base of the toilet are covered with a layer of silicone.
Additionally, if the interior design allows, the floor is covered with decorative tiles. As for linoleum, there is no clear opinion here. The only thing that can be noted is that only material with a PVC base is suitable for the toilet.
Glue
An alternative and controversial method. However, for lack of anything better, it is quite acceptable. The technology is simple and does not require drilling holes. The bowl is glued using a compound known as liquid nails applied to a wood or rubber spacer. The perimeter gasket itself is nailed to the floor. An epoxy composition gives good results.
Without a standard set of plumbing fixtures, no modern comfortable home is unthinkable. Most often, professionals are invited to solve such problems and fairly demand remuneration for their services - the amount of which can be sensitive to the family budget. In fact, many stages of engineering equipment are simple and quite accessible for independent execution. It is quite simple, technically, to install a toilet in a private house with your own hands, using step-by-step instructions.
From the point of view of the basic principle, installing a toilet in a private house differs little from that in the bathroom of an apartment building. It is important to understand that for any plumbing fixture the method of connecting to the sewer system is approximately the same - only differences are in the diameter of the connecting pipe. When installing a toilet in a house, everything is the same, you just need to pay attention to the ceiling material and the peculiarities of its behavior. The easiest installation takes place on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. In the case of wood floors, you will have to take some additional steps.
A typical master's set looks like this on average:
- Roulette
- Marker or pencil for marking
- Spirit level
- Plumbing Silicone Sealant
- Hammer or drill with impact function and a set of drills
- Swedish key
- A set of anchors for attaching the toilet to the floor
- Plumbing corrugation, eccentric or fan connection for connecting the toilet to the sewer (the easiest way is using a corrugation).
You may additionally need two-component mastic, red lead, plumbing flax, antiseptic-treated taffeta board, etc.
Choosing a place for the toilet
Any installation of a toilet, including in a private home, begins with choosing a location. There are relatively few criteria: it is convenient to use, it is possible to connect water for the flushing system, and preferably a minimum distance from the sewer riser.
Typically, the installation of a toilet in a home is determined at the project level. When replacing a toilet, there is no question of any variability at all. It is only important to pay attention to the method of connecting the toilet, which will be discussed below.
Toilet installation
The installation of a toilet in the house begins with a simple fitting of the device in its regular place and marking it. Simply put: trace the outline of the base and mark the location of the fastening holes. Then check the horizontalness of the toilet bowl. If there are large deviations, measures will be required to level the base.
Check the outlet of the bowl and its coincidence with the sewer outlet. If everything matches, you can install corrugation on the sewer outlet using sealant. It is not yet connected to the toilet outlet.
If the base is level and stable (concrete slab), then the toilet can be mounted directly on it. When the toilet is installed on a wooden floor, it is advisable to install a kind of wooden gasket under it made of a wooden board or thick moisture-resistant plywood - taffeta. It is cut according to the outline of the base of the plumbing fixtures.
The toilet is placed on a sealant - this will prevent water from flowing under it and the development of microorganisms. Before placing it in its regular place, holes for mounting anchors are drilled according to the markings - the diameter of the holes in the floor is slightly smaller than the mounting holes in the toilet. Depth - with a small margin.
The anchors should fit tightly by hand - do not hammer them in with a hammer.
Place the toilet on the sealant and tighten the base to the floor with nuts. It is important not to overdo it - otherwise the sanitaryware may simply burst. Instead of plumbing sealant, you can use compositions based on epoxy resin. Then you need to take a break - 6 hours for the sealant to harden and at least 12 hours for the epoxy composition to set.
Connection to sewerage
For further equipment of a bathroom in a private house, it is necessary to connect the toilet to the sewerage system. There are two main installation methods - for a modern toilet, the typical solution would be a horizontal connection. In older houses, vertical installation may also occur.
A toilet with a vertical outlet is suitable for a vertical connection, and a toilet with a horizontal drain is suitable for a horizontal connection. A toilet with an oblique outlet is universal.
The choice of connection method is determined by personal preferences and the degree of coincidence of the sewer and toilet outlets. The fan connection requires almost a jeweler's compliance, since it is impossible to trim the fan pipe. The eccentric helps regulate differences in height, but requires maintaining the distance from the toilet to the riser outlet. The simplest and most universal method is corrugated connection.
When connecting, you need to lubricate the edges of the cuff with plumbing sealant - this both seals the connection and is a kind of lubricant that facilitates installation. It is just important not to overdo it - excess sealant reduces the reliability of the connection.
Installing the tank on a shelf
The next step is to install the tank in place. A rubber gasket is put in place to seal the connection between the tank and the toilet. Then put the tank on it and tighten both parts with standard bolts through rubber shock-absorbing and sealing bushings. Here it is important not to allow skewing and not to overtighten - otherwise the rubber washer between the tank and the shelf will deform unevenly and water will constantly leak from the tank.
Connecting the water supply to the tank
The last step of installing plumbing equipment in the house is to connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose in a reinforcing braid. When connecting the pipe to the flexible hose, only rubber gaskets or sealant should be used without plumbing. The fitting is tightened very carefully to avoid cracking the housing or plastic pipe of the filling valve. Next, check the entire system again for leaks and finally adjust the tank fittings.
Having “straight” hands, you can do most of the housework yourself. This category of work also includes installing a toilet. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done with your own hands.
Installing a toilet with your own hands is a task of medium complexity
Types of toilets
In this article, we will consider not the features of flushing or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.
By installation method
The toilet itself consists of a plumbing bowl and a flush cistern. The bowl can be floor-mounted or suspended. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank is hidden - built into the wall. In the case of a floor-standing bowl, there are three options for mounting the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected using a flexible hose, in an installation (hidden in the wall of the frame).
The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a regular flush cistern is its ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to a suspended one, it takes up more space and looks heavier. Accordingly, installation of wall-hung models is complicated—it is necessary to secure the supporting structure—the installation—in the wall. Perhaps this is only during renovation.
Release to sewer
The choice of toilet for discharge into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:
If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet will be optimal. If the outlet is in the floor, but is close to the wall, it is most convenient to have an oblique toilet. The horizontal version is universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected to both the wall and the floor.
Installation of a toilet with a compact cistern (floor-standing version)
The store usually delivers the toilet bowl, tank, flush device and float separately. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.
What does a floor-standing toilet with a compact cistern consist of?
Assembly
The process begins with the installation of a drainage device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in the hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drainage device and the tank.
On the reverse side, the plastic washer included in the kit is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held with your hand.
The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included as standard. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, put on rubber gaskets, then washers, and only then screw on the nuts.
Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “seated” with sealant. First we coat it on one side, place it on the toilet, coat it on the other, and place the tank.
We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers and nuts on the screws from below and tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.
Next, we install a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes at the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.
We wrap a little flax around the outlet pipe, coat it with plumbing paste, and install an angle (brass or stainless steel). Do not overtighten the connection, do not hammer it in; the pipe is made of plastic.
Installing a tee
Floor mounting
The toilet is almost assembled, it can be put back in place. The toilet is connected to the sewer using a corrugated adapter. It has rubber seals at the ends that fit tightly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.
If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted until it stops. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to the metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference of the dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then the corrugation is inserted. To be more sure, you can also apply sealant to the outside of the joint.
In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.
The second end of the corrugation is put on the toilet outlet. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. It's so simple. There is just one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the toilet bowl outlet are lubricated with soap soaked in water, and only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, removing the toilet without damaging the corrugation will be problematic. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove rather than try to move a partially fixed device.
Having put the corrugation on the outlet, we position the toilet the way it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is room for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, and adjust the position if necessary. Then take a pencil or marker, insert it into the holes in the sole, and mark the places for installing the fasteners.
After removing the toilet, drill holes for dowels in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use them - they will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately install powerful dowels.
If the toilet is installed on tiles, to prevent them from cracking, it is better to cover the glazed surface. Take a self-tapping screw, mark it, and hit it with a hammer several times. This is called “kerning”. Then take a drill or hammer drill and drill the tiles, turning off the impact mode. Once the tiles have been passed through, you can turn on the perforation mode.
We put plastic plugs from dowels into the holes. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.
We sweep the floor, removing dust in the area where the toilet is installed. We put it in place, insert dowels into the holes, and tighten them using the appropriate key. The bolts must be tightened alternately, first on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet is secure and free of play.
The final touch is connecting to the water supply. Connect the outlet of the water pipe with the tap installed on it with the corner on the tank that was connected earlier. For this you need a flexible hose. There are union nuts (American) at its ends, so there will be no problems with fastening. We tighten well, but without fanaticism.
How to install a wall-hung toilet with installation
To install wall-hung toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - about 13-15 cm from the far edge. If the exit is from the floor, there is a solution - a special lining, with the help of which the drain is moved closer to the wall.
Installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with attaching stops to the wall installation frame. They are attached in two at the top and bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame is raised and launched.
The upper stops have the form of rods and are adjusted using a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The lower stops are more like plates; they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with the head positioned on the side.
The assembled frame is placed against the wall, its center is positioned above the middle of the sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).
Using a bubble level, the horizontal and vertical installation of the installation for a wall-hung toilet is checked.
Checking horizontality
By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, specified by the manufacturer, is set. How to conveniently do this, look at the photo.
The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. Mark them in appropriate places with a pencil or marker and drill holes. Plastic dowel bodies are installed in them. Most of the wall-hung toilets are imported, and they recommend sealing the dowel bodies with sealant. Some of the sealant is squeezed into the drilled hole and a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic housing.
Connecting elements - pipes, couplings - can be installed in a fixed installation. They all come included and simply snap into place.
Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be supported. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, and silicone seals are put on top (in the bottom photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).
The sewer pipe extends to the required distance and is fixed in the specified position using a bracket. It covers the pipe from above and is inserted into the groove until it clicks.
Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it has latches), remove the plug on the side surface. Right or left - depends on where your water supply is. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, a mating part is inserted from the inside, everything is connected using a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without using excessive force - it is plastic.
A tee is installed inside the tank, and a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. This is done with the help of an adapter and an American one.
The hose from the tank is connected to the special inlet of the tee. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a union nut.
Replace the cover. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall from moisture-resistant plasterboard. It is recommended to use two sheets, but one is also possible. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.
The toilet is placed on pins, its outlet goes into a plastic socket. The connection is sealed, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet.
