How to lay paving slabs on concrete. How to lay paving slabs on a concrete base or on an old asphalt surface with your own hands. How to lay paving slabs on a concrete base: all stages of installation

Every year, landscaping with sidewalk tiles is becoming popular. It is installed everywhere, in dachas, in city courtyards, playgrounds, parking lots and of course in private construction.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base occupies a special niche. It is used in places where increased stability and durability are required, but this does not mean that you cannot install it yourself.

Advice: laying paving slabs on a concrete base is a labor-intensive task that requires care, a certain professionalism and some expenses. Therefore, leave large parking areas to the professionals. But you can improve the blind area near the house or a small courtyard yourself.

What's good about this method?

The technology of laying paving slabs on a concrete base makes it possible to equip road surfaces that are subject to serious loads.

In addition, this method is good because such a path, if laid correctly, will last much longer than with traditional construction using crushed stone and sand.

The point is that with traditional installation, the base needs to be compacted quite well. But no matter how you tamp it, under load, in any case, it sags or moves in places. The concrete monolith does not have this drawback.
If you decide to lay a blind area, then you simply need a concrete pad with good waterproofing.
The technology of laying paving slabs on a concrete base, according to experts, is indispensable for arranging pavement on heaving soils. Winter frosts and associated soil movements are not dangerous for a monolithic slab.
The instructions for laying it on a flat slab with your own hands are not complicated. The main thing before you put paving slabs on a concrete base, ensure good drainage and drainage. The monolithic base does not allow moisture to pass through; in winter or in the off-season this can be dangerous.

Technological stages of installation

As mentioned earlier, arranging a path on a concrete slab is considered a more complex process than installing it on a sand and gravel pad. If the technology is not followed, dismantling such a structure will be problematic ().

Marking and preparation of the territory

All such work begins with markings. To do this, wooden or metal pegs are used, on which a marking thread or guide is attached.

The quality of installation will largely depend on the accuracy of the markings.

Particular attention should be paid to the slope of the path. Traditionally, the slope is made within 1 - 3º, per 1 linear meter, for ordinary surfaces. And up to 5º when installing a blind area.
Behind the markings, soil is excavated. The total size of the road “pie” will be about 400 mm. From here the excavation depth is calculated, taking into account that the path must be higher than the ground, plus have a slope for drainage. On average it is about 20 - 25 cm.

Installing a curb

Before laying paving slabs on a concrete base, you need to arrange the base itself, and this structure is heavy and multi-layered. Most experts advise starting with installing curbs.

They will act as natural formwork.

Otherwise, you will need to install the formwork and after installing the path, still install the curb.

The trench for the curb is dug below the level of the main masonry. Typically, the depth of the trench is about 30 cm below the base of the curb block. Calculation of the depth should be made based on the fact that the upper edge of the block is mounted below the level of the track by 20 - 30 mm. This is necessary so that the block does not interfere with the outflow of water.
Initially, crushed stone is poured into the trench to a level of 100 - 200 mm and compacted well. After which the solution is poured to a thickness of up to 20 mm and the block itself is installed. A day later, when the cement has set, construction of the path can begin.

Tip: when marking, the pegs need to be driven in as often as possible. Keep in mind that even with a good tension of a strong thread, the sagging per 1 linear meter will be 1 mm.

Arrangement of the concrete base

After excavating the soil, the surface is carefully leveled and compacted, taking into account the slope.

You can lay 1 - 2 layers of geotextile on the bottom; according to technology, it is necessary to protect against greenery sprouting, but in our opinion, greenery will not break through a concrete slab anyway.

Important: if a blind area is being built around the perimeter of the building, to improve waterproofing, the bottom must be covered with roofing felt in 1 - 2 layers.

The bottom layer is filled with crushed stone to a thickness of 150 - 200 mm. The crushed stone must also be well compacted.
If you plan to install the coating under heavy loads, then a reinforcement frame with a rod cross-section of about 10 - 12 mm is laid on the crushed stone cushion. For a wide walking path, you can use a chain-link mesh. Narrow paths and house blind areas may not need to be reinforced at all.
The thickness of the monolithic layer itself for parking lots with heavy vehicles or other similar structures can reach up to 200 mm. On a pedestrian path, 100–150 mm is sufficient.
. The higher the grade of concrete, the faster it will harden and last longer, but its price will also be significantly higher. The table shows the basic proportions of filling for various grades of concrete.

Important: on large areas, it is necessary to make damper seams to compensate for stress. On average every 2.5 - 3 m².

Laying tiles

The answer to the question of how to lay paving slabs on a concrete base is quite simple. In a nutshell, the process is similar to installing tiles.

The only difference is that the paving can be installed using a wet solution of sand and cement, a dry solution of sand and cement in the same proportion, or using a special construction adhesive.

When laid dry, there is significant shrinkage, so professionals work more with this mixture. The price of construction glue is quite high. The most cost-effective option is with cement-sand mortar.
In this case, the solution is prepared without adding crushed stone, from sifted sand and cement. The mark is made an order of magnitude higher than on the underlying monolith and a little thicker.

First, it is better to lay the tiles dry, cut out and number the edges with complex details. For the pattern cutting of reinforced concrete with diamond wheels is used. When it is necessary to drill a technological hole, diamond drilling of holes in concrete is used.
A 20-30 mm thick mortar is applied to the concrete base with a trowel and the tiles are installed. A tight fit is made using a rubber mallet. To create a gap of 3 - 5 mm, plastic crosses are used. It is important to immediately control the slope.
After the solution has set for 2–3 days, the cracks between the blocks are filled with sifted sand using a broom. After a week, when the sand is compacted, the gaps between the tiles are rubbed with mortar.

Conclusion

If you nevertheless decide to lay the coating on a dry mortar, then the thickness of the filling is also made around 30 mm. But here you need to give at least 3 weeks for shrinkage. Only after this can the seams between the blocks be rubbed ().

In the video in this article you can learn some technological points for yourself.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base is highly durable and durable. This installation method is used in places where there are intense loads. But this method is quite expensive, so it is used only if there are appropriate technical requirements.

Paving slabs are traditionally laid on a sand-crushed stone base, which is arranged directly on the ground. However, this option is not always optimal. For example, when paving parking lots, playgrounds, and pedestrian areas, it is very important that the base is as strong as possible. In such cases must be laid on concrete, which provides high level coating strength.

It should be remembered that the concrete base under the paving slabs is waterproof

The main advantage of a concrete base is its stability. This is its difference from a sand-crushed stone cushion, which, under the influence of atmospheric conditions, can sag and “drag” the paving stones along with it. This does not happen with a concrete base. The coating laid on a concrete base will not sag even under fairly large mechanical loads, for example, in car parks.

The main enemy of coating is moisture. Water penetrates microcracks, and when it freezes, it expands and destroys the tile from the inside. Therefore, before laying paving slabs on a concrete base, it is necessary to ensure good drainage and drainage.

In the case when the tiles are laid on a sand-crushed stone base, water does not linger on the surface of the tiles, but seeps through the paving joints and is absorbed into the sand and crushed stone. This does not happen when laying on a concrete base. Water, passing through the joints, accumulates between the tiles and concrete. This leads to the fact that in frosty weather the water freezes and tears the material away from the base. Therefore, it is so important that the technology of laying paving slabs on a concrete base is carried out according to all the rules.

Concrete foundation technology

Work should begin with planning the area where paving slabs need to be laid on concrete. The area must be measured, its plan drawn and all dimensions marked on it.. After this, it is necessary to calculate the required amount of material for installation (this includes tiles, sand, crushed stone, cement). Then, using twine and pegs, you should mark the area according to the developed plan.

Now you can start removing the soil. It must be removed to a depth of 25-30 cm. The resulting trench is cleared of plant roots, a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom, creating the necessary slope for water drainage.

Formwork made of boards is installed along the stretched string. The formwork must be secured with pegs. They are placed on the outside of the formwork at a distance of 0.8-1 m from each other. The thickness of the boards must be at least 40 mm. Otherwise, they may not hold the concrete mass.

To fill the base, use a concrete mixture of crushed stone, sand and cement in a ratio of 3:2:1. The strength of the concrete base is reinforced with reinforcing mesh. Therefore, first, a layer of concrete 3-5 cm thick is laid on the crushed stone cushion, a reinforcing mesh is laid on it, and then another 5-10 cm layer of concrete is poured.

The top layer of concrete underpaving under paving slabs should not contain coarse crushed stone

At the pouring stage, the slopes are formed. Paving slabs, their laying on concrete does not require too much slope, one degree will be enough. If concreting is carried out over a large area, then it is necessary to make expansion joints every 2-3 meters to prevent deformation of the paved surface during seasonal temperature changes.

After the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed and installation begins. But before laying the deck on the concrete base, you need to install curbs. To do this, dig a groove around the perimeter of the concrete covering. A layer of cement mortar 3 cm thick is laid on its bottom. The ratio of sand and cement in the mortar should be 1:3. The curbs are driven into the solution using a rubber hammer and left for a day to harden. After the solution has hardened, the gaps between the curbs and the walls of the trench are filled with sand., which is spilled with water and compacted.

Laying methods

It can be laid on a concrete base in two ways: on a dry mixture of cement and sand and on a cement-sand mortar.

When starting to lay tiles, you must first lay them out on a flat surface, following the pattern. This will help you understand how to lay paving slabs on concrete so that every stone is in its place. After this, you can begin preparing the mixture or solution.

The solution is prepared in the same proportion as for pouring a concrete base, but its consistency should be thicker. It is advisable to add only sifted sand to the mixture. Using a trowel, the prepared mortar is laid out on the base in a layer of 2-3 cm. The paving slabs are pressed into the mortar. You can correct its position using a rubber mallet. Wherein You must constantly check the horizontality of the paved surface using a building level.

Paving slabs made with cement mortar are considered the most durable, but they are completely irreparable. If the concrete is deformed for any reason, the tiles cannot be used for secondary paving.

Many people, of course, are interested in how to lay paving slabs with their own hands using paving stone (dry cement-sand mixture). In this case, a layer of grating 5-6 cm thick is first laid on the concrete base. The tiles are carefully laid on it and compacted using a mallet.

The result of the work must be checked at the building level

The seams between the tiles after laying are filled with a cement-sand mixture and are spilled with water. This procedure must be repeated several times until all the seams are completely filled with the mixture. The paved area can be used 2-3 days after the last procedure.

Basic installation schemes

Owners of dachas and country houses want to see their properties landscaped and impressive. Therefore, it is very important for them to know how to lay paving slabs on concrete beautifully. It should be noted that rectangular tiles (paving stones) allow you to create many patterns and beautiful installation options.

The most common installation schemes:

"column";
"herringbone";
"brickwork".

These designs are quite simple and look great when used in multiple colors. They are usually used for paving paths, playgrounds and parking lots.

Features of laying on old concrete

Often, areas already have old paths that they want to modernize. Therefore, many people have a question: is it possible to lay paving slabs on concrete that is already many years old?

This method is allowed, but in the case when the coating does not have large defects and is still quite intact. Otherwise, the old concrete coating must be removed and replaced with a new one.

Technology for laying tiles on an old concrete base:

First you should check the coverage. All chipped pieces, sand, debris, and oil stains are removed from the surface;
pits and cracks must be filled with cement mortar, and the bumps must be combed off;
after the preparatory work, the tiles are laid on the old concrete base using the same method as on the new one.

As mentioned above, if there is serious damage to the old coating, it must be removed. Otherwise, the entire tile installation may be ruined in a couple of years. If the old concrete base is strong enough, then it is not advisable to remove it. After all, with its help you can significantly save on landscaping.

It should be said that To lay paving slabs on an old concrete base, you can use special glue. Before gluing paving slabs onto concrete, the surface must be cleaned of dust, sand and small debris. The concrete surface should not contain any type of paint or any other coating that could peel off. The best adhesion is provided by rough surfaces made of smooth or cellular concrete.

Tile adhesive intended for outdoor use is suitable for laying tiles on concrete.

Laying paving slabs has some tricks:

when laying great importance have accurate measurements;
When starting to lay tile, you should consider renting an electric sealer. This machine will help achieve a smoother surface;
You cannot start laying tiles if there is a chance of rain. The cement mortar will not set well if it is too wet;
It is better to place the upper level of the tiles below the level of the lawn. If this condition is met, you will be able to mow the grass along the edges of the lawn without worrying about damaging the mower or the paving slabs.

Regardless of the basis on which the tiles are paved, they can last a very long time if they are made with high quality and all technological requirements are met when laying them.

How to lay paving slabs with your own hands on a concrete base of a blind area is shown in the video:

When it comes time to pave paths, most often suburban areas use paving slabs. It is much more aesthetically pleasing than concrete or asphalt, and is not inferior to them in strength. The easiest way is to hire craftsmen who are proficient in installation technology, but if you can’t pay about 10 USD. per square, then you can retrain as a bridge worker during your vacation and build it yourself. The main thing is to follow the technology, which is not so complicated, to find necessary tools and decide on the “pillow” on which you will place the finishing material. It can be created from a sand-cement mixture, gravel and concrete. Let's consider in what cases paving slabs are laid on a concrete base and what nuances should be taken into account during installation and operation.

The concrete base is a poured and tired flat area on which paving slabs will be laid. This method provides much greater durability of the coating than a sand-cement cushion, so it is used in places where the tiles will be subject to pressure from heavy equipment or frequent traffic congestion. In addition, it is much easier to align all the tiles to the same level if there is not a moving mixture underneath, but a solid base. It will not shrink during the hardening process, there will be no failures and other problems associated with poor-quality compaction. Therefore, owners who do not have construction experience, but who decide to do this, will simplify the leveling of the coating into one plane.

A concrete base for paving stones provides increased strength to the site, but it is more difficult to create than laying tiles on a sand-gravel mixture

And yet, laying paving slabs on concrete is rarely used, because this technology has its own nuances related to the removal of moisture from the surface of the tile. With the usual sand-cement method, precipitation goes through the hygroscopic base into the ground and does not cause any harm to the coating. If concrete is poured, then the water that seeps under the paving stones cannot go deeper, since the monolithic base simply will not let it through. As a result, it gets stuck between the base and the tile, in the seams between the tiles, and as soon as frost hits, it will begin to expand, pushing the coating upward. As a result of this, the paving stones may swell in some places, split at the edges, etc.

Therefore, when pouring a concrete base, special attention is paid to drainage: they create lines, point moisture inlets, lay paving stones with a slope in a certain direction, etc.

If everything is organized correctly, the created paths will be much more durable than those on a sand-cement bed. You will be able to lay out the most complex fantasy patterns with perfect horizontal clarity of the surface.

The first step is to lay out the area that will be paved: they drive in pegs and set the so-called red marks. Builders use this term to describe a tightly stretched thread that outlines the boundaries of the future height of your site. Take regular twine and tie it to pegs at the height where the tile will end. Do not forget to make a 5 degree slope of the thread to the location of future water intakes.

Even when laying narrow paths, the red marks are still set to get a smooth edge, ideal horizontality and the correct angle of inclination for water drainage

Next, check how many centimeters of free space there is from the thread to the ground. If it’s less than thirty, they remove everything unnecessary with a shovel and take it away in a wheelbarrow so that it doesn’t interfere. Fertile soil can be poured directly into the garden or in places where flower beds are planned.

The edge of the finished earthen “trough” should be immediately reinforced with curbs. Some craftsmen install curbs after pouring concrete, but in this case they will have to protect the edge of the site from falling soil, i.e. install formwork. Therefore, for inexperienced bridge builders, the first option is preferable.

If you install curbs right away, you won’t have to waste time creating formwork and then dismantling it, and the concrete will fill the area without gaps

If you use a border whose height is 50 cm, then:

dig a trench another 30 cm deep;
covered with a layer of crushed stone (about 10 cm);
lay cement mortar (at least 1.5 cm);
A curb is placed on it so that the top edge after laying is 2-3 cm lower than the edge of the paving stones. This is necessary so that the curb does not retain water on the site, but helps drain it away.

With a lower curb height, the depth of the trench is reduced accordingly.

The height of the curb should be slightly lower than the surface of the paving stones to ensure rapid drainage of precipitation from the site and prevent moisture from stagnating

Technological process of pouring concrete

A day after the curb has hardened, you can begin pouring concrete. If you are creating a platform on which equipment, especially large ones, will ride, the concrete base must be reinforced. For this purpose, reinforcement is suitable (no more than a dozen thick), which is knitted with a cell size of 15-20 cm. If the paths are exclusively pedestrian, then reinforcement is not necessary.

It is advisable to pour concrete on sand, which will serve as additional drainage for seeping moisture and allow it to quickly sink into the ground.

So that moisture that gets through the paving slabs onto the concrete can seep further, and not stand inside, it is necessary to create special drainage holes. To do this, use an asbestos pipe, cutting it into pieces 15-20 cm high (the height should match the height of the concrete layer that you will then pour). Pieces of asbestos are laid out throughout the territory at the rate of one per sq.m. They are not removed after the concrete is poured. You can also create holes from boards in the shape of squares, but after the concrete hardens, the wood will have to be removed.

Now we prepare ordinary concrete using cement grade 150-200. Fill it with a layer of 15 cm - if there is no reinforcement, 20 cm - if reinforcement is laid. If a large area is being poured, then every three meters it is necessary to create a so-called expansion joint. It is needed to prevent cracking of the base in winter. The easiest way to make a seam is to press the boards into the concrete with an edge half a centimeter thick. After drying, they are removed and the voids are filled with elastic filler. The top of the seam is coated with concrete to level it with the rest of the surface.

A day later, remove the wooden formwork from the drainage holes and fill them flush with the edge of the concrete with small crushed stone.

Creating a sand-cement cushion

The order of work here is as follows:

We sift the sand, mix it with cement 6:1 (the easiest way is in a concrete mixer);
We fill the area with a layer of up to 10 cm (taking into account the thickness of the paving stones), i.e. The thickness of the pillow + the thickness of the tile should extend beyond the red mark by about 2 cm (shrinkage cover).
We tamp with a vibrating plate or stomp (a log with a wide board nailed to the bottom and a handle bar on top).
We check the tension of the red marks so that there is a slope. By the way, remember that it is better to place pegs more often, because even a very tight thread gives a sag of 1 mm per meter.
We lay out beacons (pipes with a diameter of 20 mm) around the site. They must be pressed tightly against the pillow so that there is a distance from the lace to the beacon equal to the thickness of your tile + 1 cm for compaction. The distance between beacons is slightly less than the length of your rule.
Then we take the rule and, focusing on the beacons, we pull together the excess sand-cement cushion to get a perfectly flat surface.
We take out the first beacons where you will begin laying tiles (you cannot step on the cushion!), fill the grooves with the same mixture and begin laying the tiles on the concrete base.

This is what it all looks like:

If the site is being created large, then it is easier to mix sand and cement in a concrete mixer, and then transport the ready-made mixture in a wheelbarrow

On narrow paths, the rule can be a flat board in which the edges are cut off, and the edges of the installed curb can be used as beacons

When laying paving stones, the edge tiles will have to be adjusted, so find a grinder in advance and install a diamond wheel to make perfectly even cuts

Laying tricks: how to do without a vibrating plate?

If you have completed all the previous steps conscientiously, then laying the paving stones will be easy. The tiles are not laid end to end, but with seams of about 5 mm. They will not allow the tiles to crack when the coating “walks” due to temperature changes and moisture.

Some owners begin laying tiles from the most visible side of the site, so that all cuts and adjustments are made in places least visible to the eye

Laying begins from the curb. Usually they move along the marks from top to bottom, in the direction where the water will flow.

Try to leave even seams between the tiles, at least 5 mm, so that the coating looks symmetrical, and in winter, when the tiles expand, they do not squeeze out one another

Level the surface of each tile by tapping it with a mallet (rubber hammer) and checking the horizontal level. In the future, you need to press down the entire surface with a vibrating plate so that the tiles sit exactly along the stretched threads, but if this is not available, then immediately when laying, use a wide cut of the board. It is laid flat on several tiles and hammered to the desired height with a mallet.

The tile joints can be filled with the same mixture from which you created the pillow, or with fine sand. The first option creates a monolithic coating that allows moisture to pass through less easily. In addition, grass and moss grow less often in the seams. But if you drive over such tiles with heavy vehicles in winter, then both the seams and the edges of the tiles may crack, since there are no thermal joints. Any material, including paving stones, expands at low temperatures. But there is no gap for this expansion. Strong pressure arises in the seams, and if something heavy passes over the coating at this time, the concrete may not withstand the load.

Seams filled with sand perfectly preserve the integrity of the coating, but through them precipitation immediately gets under the tile. So water drainage must be performed at the highest level.

First, sand or a sand-gravel mixture is scattered over the entire site, and then carefully swept into the seams between the tiles

To fill the seams with mixture or sand, use an ordinary household broom. The composition is scattered over the surface of the coating and carefully swept into the seams, and the excess is removed.

The site is ready. It is advisable not to walk on it for three days so that the pillow absorbs moisture from the ground and hardens. It is better to lay a board or plywood so as not to move the edges of the tiles under the pressure of the body.

On the territory of a private house, large stores, car parking areas, a coating that can withstand increased loads is required. To solve the problem you will need a concrete pad. We will figure out how to lay paving slabs on a concrete base on our own, and ensure the reliability and durability of the cladding.

Can it be laid on concrete?

Walkway tiles are basically laid on a bed of sand and crushed stone that is formed directly above the ground. But such a base cannot withstand heavy loads. To improve children's areas, car parking lots, and pedestrian paths, the technology of laying paving slabs on a concrete base is used. A concrete pad can provide reliability and strength to the facing coating.

One of the important arguments in the question of whether paving slabs can be laid on concrete will be both the strength of the coating and its moisture resistance.

The method of laying paving slabs on a concrete base has the following advantages:

ability to take increased loads;
resistance to unexpected damage of various types;
simple installation technology;
You can do the installation yourself.

You can lay paving slabs on concrete, and during further use the coating will not sag if you comply with the requirements of the installation technology.

There are also some disadvantages when laying paving slabs on concrete:

installation is more labor-intensive compared to a sand cushion combined with crushed stone;
if one element of the coating is damaged, then when it is removed there is a possibility of damage to neighboring parts;
If the rules for installing paving slabs on a concrete base are not followed, the concrete pad may crumble after the first winter season.

One of the main troubles for concrete coverings is moisture. When moisture gets into the cracks of the tiles, and when they further freeze in winter, the coating literally breaks from the inside. A deformed coating may come off the base. Therefore, before you start laying tiles on a concrete base, you need to take care of high-quality drainage and drainage design.

It is possible to lay paving slabs on concrete, but it is necessary to correctly install the coating.

Installation stages

Before you begin, check out the video below on laying paving slabs on a concrete base, as well as step-by-step recommendations. It is important to follow the installation rules so that you do not have to do the work again.

Paving slabs are installed on a concrete base in several stages:

preparatory activities are carried out, which include measurements and marking of the surface to be treated;
preparation of the concrete base;
curb installation;
surface cladding.

If you lay paving slabs on concrete according to the steps listed above, the coating will last a long time and will not require unscheduled repairs. Let's look at each stage of work in more detail.

Necessary tools and accessories for installation

To perform facing work, you must use the following devices and materials:

container for mixing the solution. It’s good if you have a concrete mixer;
sand;
cement (grade M500);
crushed stone;
hydraulic levels (2 pieces). One device is 50 cm, the second is 100 cm;
device for compacting the base (tamper). You can use automatic or manual option;
stronger rope, pegs for marking the boundaries of the coating;
trowel (special spatula for applying the solution);
rubber hammer;
irrigation hose;
rake;
broom.

Tools with additional accessories have been selected, and you can proceed to the next step.

We calculate the amount of facing material

To eliminate unnecessary costs, and at the end of installation there are no unused elements left, it is necessary to mark and calculate the required amount of paving slabs for concrete. Thanks to correct measurements and calculations, you will receive a high-quality surface coating.

Position	Calculation principle
Pavement tiles	Measure the perimeter and surface area for cladding. The number of tiles is calculated by the sum of all surface areas that will be tiled. You need to add 10% to the resulting figure in case of defects or other unforeseen circumstances
Construction components for fill foundation	Calculate taking into account the thickness of the pillow layer. To calculate, take the area of the entire working surface (in m²) and multiply it by the width of the future coating (in meters).
Border stone	The required figure is the length of all perimeters, from which the length of the places where the surface adjoins the base is subtracted
Components for concrete pad	The calculation depends on the density of the pillow. So, if you need to make a cushion of B20 concrete (for 1 m³), then you will need approximately the following amount of components: cement - 320 kg, crushed stone - 1150, sand - 770 kg. The water will go away, approximately, about 180 l

After the calculations, you can begin the main preparatory measures before laying paving slabs on the concrete blind area.

Preparatory activities

The quality and durability of the future coating depends on proper preparation before gluing paving slabs onto concrete.

First prepare the soil:

remove soil from the marked working surface (25 cm deep), so as to go beyond the markings to the thickness of the future border, and add another 3 cm. Stones and plant rhizomes must be removed from the pit;
The bottom needs to be leveled with a rake, then watered with a hose and the soil compacted well.

Making a concrete pad step by step

In order to properly lay paving slabs on concrete, it is necessary to make the correct base. If you violate the technology, the surface will soon crack.

The pillow is made as follows:

the bottom of the prepared trench is filled with a special three-dimensional structure made of honeycombs (geogrid) to hold the coating on the slopes, then covered with a layer of crushed stone (15 cm). The edges of the grate should be lower in height than the filled crushed stone, so as not to interfere with compaction;
the resulting layer is well compacted;
a reinforcing mesh is installed on top;
according to the contour markings, a temporary flooring (formwork) is installed, which will be filled with concrete during the installation process;
While the concrete is being prepared, it is simultaneously poured into the deck to eliminate voids. Voids can affect the strength of the structure;
the finished base is covered with film and left in this state for several days (from 3 to 7). Periodically it is necessary to moisten the finished base with water.

To remove moisture that has entered or may seep into the concrete pad, cut pieces of polypropylene pipes are installed at regular intervals. The top of the pipes is placed in such a way that it coincides with the top of the pillow, and the bottom goes into the crushed stone layer. After the concrete layer has completely hardened, the formwork can be removed.

Installation of curbs

When the formwork is removed, curbs need to be installed in the resulting recesses. To complete the work, a concrete solution is prepared and placed into the ditches using a trowel. Border stones are mounted on top, one at a time.

A rubber hammer is used to fix the curbs. The remaining cracks must be filled with a liquid concrete layer.

To avoid interference with wastewater, when installing curbs, pay attention to their height. It should be below the top of the paving stones (30 mm difference). After 24 hours, the solution will harden, and the resulting space between the curbs and the walls of the ditch must be filled with sand.

Surface cladding

After the measures listed above have been completed, you can proceed to the final stage - laying paving slabs on a concrete base. Before installation, it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the video below on how to lay paving slabs on concrete.

If the lined surface is intended to be used as a pedestrian path, then the thickness of the element for cladding can be from 4 to 5 cm. If a parking space for cars is being built, then select facing elements with a thickness of 6 cm.

There are two ways to lay paving slabs on concrete:

apply a dry mixture of sand and cement;
use a solution of cement and sand.

Let's take a closer look at how to glue paving slabs to a concrete base using the methods mentioned above:

Important: if you lay paving slabs on concrete treated with a dry mixture, then without additional equipment this technique will not hold the facing material. Therefore, when laying paving slabs on a concrete blind area, it is necessary to thoroughly saturate the structure with water. Moisture will seep into the resulting gaps between the facing elements, and the dry mixture will harden.

To lay paving slabs on a concrete base, you need to use a rubber hammer to hammer the lining into the cement-based mortar.

Seal the seams

Correctly laying paving slabs on concrete means following all stages in the work process. When the facing stage is completed, you need to take care of grouting the joints.

You will need a dry mixture of sand and cement to fill the remaining seams and gaps. After processing, the seams are shed with water. Repeat these steps until the mixture stops shrinking.

Leave the surface for three days to dry completely. Then you can start cleaning and sweep up the resulting dust with a broom. At the end of cleaning, the finished tiled surface is washed with a hose using strong pressure.

If the concrete pad is old

Walking paths or other surfaces are not always laid over a fresh concrete surface. You can lay paving slabs on an old concrete base. Refining an existing pillow will take less time and money. But some nuances should be taken into account. Laying paving slabs on old concrete is indicated if the base is relatively intact and has no visible defects.

You can lay paving slabs on old concrete as follows:

first you need to carefully inspect the used base;
clean the surface from crumbs, debris, sand. If there are oil stains, they can be easily removed with a solvent. The main thing is that the work surface is clean;
existing surface chips, pits, and cracks are filled with cement-based mortar. The surface must be leveled so that there is a slight slope;

To lay tiles on concrete outdoors without harming your health, you must adhere to the following precautions:

to protect the lungs when working with cement mortars and dry mixtures, it is necessary to use a respirator;
To protect your eyesight, use special glasses with safety glasses, which will come in handy when cutting facing material;
concrete can have an adverse effect on the skin, so protect your hands with gloves;
Upon completion of work with concrete solutions, all tools used must be washed and cleaned immediately. Otherwise, after the concrete hardens, it will be difficult to wipe them off;
Do not cut or split tiles on your knees.

Do not forget that you can use the lined surface no earlier than three days from the date of completion of the work. To ensure the reliability of the structure, install temporary fences.

When performing work, it is necessary to strictly observe not only safety measures, but also the step-by-step technology of the process. If the facing measures are carried out correctly, the coating will not crack on frosty days, the tiles will fit tightly to the concrete base. Parking areas and walkways will last a long time and will not require unexpected repairs if you follow the instructions.

Paving slabs today are available to almost everyone, which is why they are so in demand. They use it to decorate their plots and the territory of the estate. Laying paving slabs on a concrete base is a technology that has been tested by time and different weather conditions, and provides a degree of high stability. This is one of its main advantages. If the base is crushed stone-sand or soil, then under the influence of atmospheric conditions it will begin to sag, which will negatively affect the coating. Concrete is the most reliable option, since the tiles will not sag even in the event of serious mechanical loads. But not everyone knows how to properly lay paving stones on concrete. To begin with, it’s worth getting acquainted with the installation technology in detail.

What is this article about?

Why do you need to make a concrete base?

Most often, paving slabs are laid on a crushed stone-sand base or soil. Many consider this option to be the most common and optimal. Therefore, some people wonder whether it is possible to lay paving stones on concrete. When paving areas for pedestrians, parking lots, and playgrounds, it is worth taking care of the maximum strength of the coating. In this case, experts advise using a concrete base, due to which the tiles will have a high level of wear.

Despite the fact that concrete can provide a long service life of the coating, some finishers do not want to take on this technology. The fact is that laying paving stones on a concrete base is quite a difficult job. If you make even one mistake, the tiles will fall off in the first winter. Therefore, before applying the technology of laying tiles on a concrete base, it is worth getting acquainted with all the nuances of the work and only after that study all the stages of the process and questions about how to lay paving slabs.

Before laying paving slabs on concrete, it is important to drain water directly from the base. Moisture is considered the main “enemy” of paving stones: if it gets into the pores or cracks of the coating, it will freeze in the cold season, expanding and tearing it from the inside. For this reason, drainage is the main condition during installation. In the case of using a sand-crushed stone base, the outflow of moisture occurs immediately. Water penetrates into crushed stone and sand, and then into the soil.

The main stages of pouring a concrete base

Laying paving stones on a concrete base includes the following steps:

making a concrete base for tiles;
marking the area for covering;
creation of reinforcing mesh for concrete strength;
pouring a concrete slab.

To begin with, you should take care of constructing a concrete base for the tiles. To do this, the contour of the site is outlined in the form of a stretched rope marking attached to pegs. After this, the soil should be removed to a depth of 25 cm beyond the markings. The pit should be cleared of possible stones, debris or plants. Then crushed stone is poured into the pit, a layer of which can reach 15 cm. It must be leveled according to the given slope and compacted. Formwork made of boards is installed along the contour and secured with pegs in increments of up to one meter. In this case, the boards prepared for formwork must be at least 40 mm thick, otherwise they will not withstand the weight of the concrete mass. To fill the base, you will need a concrete mixture, for which cement, sand, and crushed stone are taken in a ratio of 1: 3: 2.

To ensure the strength of the concrete base, you will need a reinforcing mesh. First, pour concrete onto the “cushion” of crushed stone, the thickness of which should reach about five centimeters. Next, the reinforcing mesh is laid and filled with another layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. After which the concrete slab is poured. For this purpose, for example, a cement mortar may be useful. When three days have passed and the base has completely hardened, you can proceed directly to laying the paving stones.

If you decide to put the product on a concrete blind area, then in this case you will need a “cushion” that has good waterproofing.

The main stages of installing paving stones on concrete

The concrete floor is only the first stage towards the completion of the work. After this, you will need to lay the paving slabs on the concrete base. This work can be divided into the following stages:

Removing curbs.
Backfilling with cement-sand mixture.
Laying paving slabs on concrete.
Filling the seams with prancing.
Preparatory work before operation.

Before laying paving stones, you should take care of installing curbs. They are necessary elements in the work for fixing the product in the chosen place. In this case, the tile will not “fidget” or move out. To install curbstones, you will need to install pegs around the perimeter of the site and pull a thread that determines the desired height of the curbs.

Then you need to dig a trench along the thread. A “cushion” should be placed under the curb, which will ensure a tight fixation. Cement mortar must be placed at the bottom of this trench. Using a rubber hammer, the stones are driven into the solution. A day later, after waiting for it to harden, you need to fill the natural areas between the borders with sand. Next, the coating is filled with water and compaction is carried out.

Then comes the stage of filling the mixture consisting of cement and sand. As a rule, laying paving slabs on a concrete base is carried out using a dry mixture, that is, a compound that, as a result of moisture, can hold the paving on the base. To do this you will need one part cement and six parts sand. There is no need to add water here.

Quite often, sand alone is used instead of this mixture, but it is not able to fix the tiles well, which is why they can eventually sag and be washed out during spring floods and heavy rains. The good news is that if the paving stones need to be repaired, it will be much easier to remove them from the sand base. Therefore, here everything needs to be decided on a purely individual basis.

It often happens that in places where the coating is, for example, under the weight of several trucks, the prancing also shows its unreliability. In such a situation, you will need glue or a cement screed. This option will be the most durable. However, it will no longer be possible to repair any damaged area. For this reason, before laying the coating, it is necessary to take this nuance into account.

At the third stage, you need to start laying paving slabs with your own hands, since after completing all the previous stages, you can carry out the laying process yourself. The paving stones should be laid on the underlying layer, and it will be compacted by hammer blows. At this time, you should use a spirit level - a stretched cord - to control the even horizontal position of the installation. This work must be done “on one’s own”, that is, moving forward all the time. Some obstacles may appear on the way, for example, the appearance of a drainage hole or sewer hatch at the installation site. They must first be surrounded with whole paving stones, and when the finishing stage comes, the tiles must be trimmed in the required quantity.

An important step is to fill the seams using a bevel. You should also place a dry mixture of cement and sand into the seams, and then fill them with water. This procedure should be repeated several times.

If the question arises of how to lay tiles on an old concrete base, then you will need special glue for this. But first, the surface will need to be thoroughly cleaned of debris. After which comes the period of preparation for operation. After three days, this paving will be completely dry. The construction debris remaining after the work must be removed from it.

Selection of paving slabs

Once the technology for laying paving slabs has been fully studied, it is worth taking care of some details. The most acceptable option is considered to be stones that have a high degree of frost resistance. But the strength of paving stones is considered especially important, that is, its ability to withstand a certain weight. If you purchase a high-quality product, it will withstand more than 0.5 tons, however, the price of such stones will be appropriate. Despite this nuance, a path paved with such tiles will last for many years, while maintaining its presentable appearance.

What you should pay attention to when buying tiles:

appearance (the product should not be chipped);
the color, if it is very bright, then the production technology was violated during manufacturing;
cost (the more expensive the product, the higher its quality).

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base will not be so difficult if you use all the above recommendations, but in order for it to last as long as possible. It is necessary to properly care for it and take care of your area lined with paving stones, regularly clean it, and remove weeds that can grow through the seams. If you follow all the rules of tile laying technology and operation, it will last a long time.