I'm trying to put everything together
Well, explanations and explanations so that they are not written by idiots.
And for those who are in the know :)
It’s very simple here - Free climbable - first you’ll go through a smooth groove with friction, followed by a hook and three pockets, then two minis and a mono - you’ll hang on them and rest... (lyrics of a Stolbist song, I don’t know the author) :)
SO, let's start (I'm just throwing it out for now)
Kar-a bowl-shaped depression surrounded by steep slopes, formed as a result of the destructive activity of a small, closed glacier. At the bottom of the car there may be a glacier, a snowfield, or a lake.
Trough- a significant cup-shaped depression on a snow slope, as well as a depression formed on a glacier as a result of movement. The slopes of the trough, reflecting sunlight, act like a concave mirror, creating a zone of increased solar radiation in the center. In summer, crossing the trench is associated with the risk of heatstroke or sunburn. In winter, on sunny days, a microclimate can be created in the troughs, allowing you to sunbathe, despite the low temperature.
Icefall- a section of a glacier with many cracks that divide the ice into separate blocks. It occurs in areas where the slope of the glacier valley is high or there are ledges of hard rocks and crossbars in the bed. See also the section "Glacial Crevases".
Ice and snow bridge- a remnant of snow cover or an avalanche runoff covering a crack, a bergschrund, or sometimes a river bed - the most convenient and natural way to cross them.
rock crack- a gap in the rock mass without displacement of blocks. In the practice of travelers, there is a gap in the rocks, where you can drive a rock hook, but you cannot stick your fingers through.
Gap- a crack into which you can stick your fingers, but you cannot insert a shoe.
Cleft- a crack in which a shoe can be wedged, but a person cannot fit.
Fireplace- a vertical crack with a steepness of over 60°, along which you can move on spreaders.
Gutter- a crack with a steepness of less than 60° with vertical walls along which you can move. May be icy and snowy. The chute usually serves as a route for rockfalls and avalanches, so moving along it requires special care.
Balcony- a protruding part of the rock, which is a combination of an overhang and a shelf above it.
Climbing rope- the most important piece of equipment for a climber. It is made of synthetic fiber - nylon, nylon by twisting or weaving strands. The main rope has a thickness of 9-12 mm. and serves for mutual belaying of climbers, as well as for descents, ascents along railings, etc. An auxiliary rope (rope cord) with a thickness of 6-8 mm is intended for self-belaying, pulling out the main rope after descending along it, and other auxiliary purposes.
Dulfer- descent using the Dulfer method along a fixed rope. The friction of the rope, placed over the climber's hip and shoulder, allows him to descend comfortably and safely.
Hook- any small detail of the rock relief that can be used when climbing as a support for arms and legs.
Carbine- a link made of steel or titanium rod, used to attach a rope to a hook or harness. It has a triangular or pear-shaped shape. A spring latch allows you to fasten the rope into the carabiner, which is then secured with a screw-on coupling.
Rock hooks- they get into the cracks of rocks to organize insurance. Made from mild steel or titanium. They have blades of different widths, lengths, thicknesses, and eyelets under the carabiner There are vertical, horizontal, and... combined, depending on the direction of the cracks for which they are intended. Shlyamburny(expanding) hook is used on solid rocks. This is a short cylindrical piston that is driven tightly into the knocked out hole.
Couloir- a wide, bottom-up, trough in a slope (grassy, rocky, ice).
Forehead, or ram's forehead, - the rounded upper part of the rock mass smoothed by the glacier.
Navis- a part of the rock that has an angle of inclination to the horizontal of more than 90°.
Denial- the same as hanging.
Harness(chest, waist) - a system of rope loops or from a special fabric belt (safety belt, Abalakovsky), attached to the climber’s body, which holds him on the rope in the event of a fall.
Railing- a rope fixed at both ends, stretched vertically, horizontally or obliquely along a difficult section of the route. They serve to facilitate the passage of the site and insurance on it.
Shelf- a horizontal or slightly inclined platform encountered during the route.
Safety belt- see Strapping.
Bunch- two (less often - three or more) climbers tied together with a rope for mutual insurance and assistance in overcoming the route (see Dombay rope).
Insurance- a set of measures to prevent a fall in the event of a fall of the teammate, as well as the belayer himself ( self-insurance). The main means of insurance is a rope. There are several types of insurance: with simultaneous movement of partners, with alternating movement, group (on the railing) and gymnastic (without a rope on low rocks). Apply various ways insurance: laying the rope connecting the bundle behind a ledge or bend in the rock, into a carabiner on a hook, over the shoulder or lower back of the climber ( belay points) or a combination of these methods. In Soviet mountaineering, belay is used on all sections of the route, even very easy ones, where in case of an accidental fall the climber will not be able to hold on himself.
Top insurance- belaying the climber using a rope, the anchor point (or bend) of which is located above the climber.
Dynamic insurance- a set of measures (techniques and devices) to dampen the jerk when belaying the bottom in the event of a fall.
Insurance loaded- a safety rope intentionally loaded with the weight of the climber (without breaking). This is an auxiliary technical technique, for example, for support with pendulums. It does not require subsequent rope rejection, since there is no tugging force.
Lower belay- belay with a rope going to the moving climber from below. Used in combination with dynamic belay.
Sling- the applied name for flat tapes. Let us note that in S.I. Ozhegov’s dictionary the word sling is given, but in parachute-paragliding (and hence in mountaineering) usage, it has long been the feminine gender: sling.
Artificial fulcrum is created if the natural supports created by the rock relief itself are not enough to complete the route. An artificial fulcrum can be platform, hook, ladder, hanging platform, fixed rope ( railing) or rope loop, as well as "replant" one climber to another.
Traverse- movement “across” the rock without significant rise or loss of height.
Traverse also called the passage of one or several neighboring peaks if the path of descent of climbers does not coincide with the path of their ascent.
Corner(internal, external) - a relief detail formed by two vertical or inclined rock walls converging into the depths of the massif ( internal corner) or protruding from it ( external corner).
Climbing knots- a tested and strictly regulated set of knots designed for various applications of climbing rope.
I didn’t find the beginning of the dictionary there... The most complete one - 14 pages long - was in my book “Tourist’s Companion” in 1949 (I.N. Burmak stole it and won’t admit it!)
Additions dug here; suddenly you are a rock climber, or planning to go to the Alps:
My deep gratitude for compilation to Anna Piunova (Mountain.RU)
Abseiling (apseil) Rappelling
Altimeter watches watch with altimeter
Ascent Climbing
Attempt Attempt
Afterwork (or Redpoint) Passing the route with "pumping". Still, there is a slight difference between these terms: afterwork is practiced in competitions, when the athlete is given a certain amount of time and attempts to try out the route, after which he is asked to climb it completely.
Redpoint- you choose the route you like and can learn it for at least three years until you climb it. There will be no fundamental error in calling such work afterwork
Allez The French equivalent of the English GO!GO! and Russian Come on! Let's!
Avue (French) French on-sight
Aid route with free climbing potential An aid route, quite passable by free climbing
Ban restriction or ban on climbing
Beta Route information
Belayor (Belayer) Insurer
Betaflash"Clean" first passage of the route, after receiving information about the route
Bergschrund Bergschrund (AAAAAAAAAAAA what is this???)
Bivy ledge Shelf suitable for bivouac
Biner Short for carabiner
Bigwall soloist guy specializing in big wall solos
Bolt Bolt hook
Boulge Belly, forehead
Buttress Buttress
Big-wall style Big-wall style (needs decoding or is it clear???)
Big-wall route big wall route
Brush brush for cleaning snags
Brushing cleaning the hooks with a special brush
Bloc (boulder) bouldering stone, problem
Belay bitch a devoted (faithful) multifunctional woman, following you everywhere, always ready to insure
Сhalk Magnesia. White powder that helps keep hands dry
Сhalk bag Magnesia bag
Chain Stationary chain at the top point of the route for organizing descent/top belay
Chipped hold Dugout
Сlimber Rock climber (actually in a broad sense this word) :). Clymer is pronounced correctly (AAA kill me against the wall!)
Cornice Cornice
Chimney Fireplace
Comfortable belay Convenient station
Couloir Couloir
Connection Connecting two or more routes or individual sections thereof
Crampons Cats
Crumbly brittle, friable, crumbling
Crack system- system of cracks
CE certified, UIAA certified equipment with CE, UIAA certificate
Dihedral Dihedral angle
Dead zone“dead” zone, returning in case of bad weather or ill health is very problematic
Downgrade lower initially given route(problem) category
Expedition Expedition
Enthusiast enthusiast, amateur
To clip Click
To fix line up Hang railing ropes
To haul Pull out (lift) trunk, transport vehicle, luggage
To head off (to lead) Lead (on a section, on a route)
To place bolt Hammer the bolt
Traditional route (Trad)“Trad”, an unequipped route, goes at its points
T-shirt t-shirt
Camp Camp
Crimper Small hook, "minuscule"
Crack climbing"Slot" climbing
Crux"Key"
Cold night Cold overnight
Climbing restriction Restriction or ban on climbing
Dime Edge or simply Edge A tiny horizontal hold on which it is difficult to place and hold the toe of a shoe, or in Fred Nicolas’s interpretation: a good hold, quite suitable for getting it in dynamics, taking a break and making the next interception.
Edge Cm. Dime Edge
Expert professional climber
F.A. Abbreviation for first ascent, can often be seen in guidebooks indicating the name of the person “responsible” for the route.
Face Wall
Facilitate Facilitate
Final section Final section
Feed out"Give out" the rope
First repeat first repeat
F.F.A. Abbreviation for first free ascent, first ascent of a route by “clean” climbing, without the use of aids
Figure-of-eight, figure 8 knot, double figure 8, figure 8 follow through The most popular knot is the figure eight knot.
Figure 8 Safety/ descender,"eight"
First ascent First ascent
First all female ascent first ascent of the route by a female team
Flash Same on-sight, but your task is slightly easier, flash is also your first ascent along an unfamiliar route, BUT after visual and/or verbal “contact”, in other words, your friend showed you the route, climbed it, advised you about the holds, after which you and they went through it themselves. Therefore, at competitions in gyms where all the holds are clearly visible, flash climbs are used, not on-sight climbs.
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau is a legendary rocky area near Paris. Bouldering Paradise
First one - day ascent first ascent of the route in one day
Free solo (- soloist, -ing) free climbing route without belaying
Fragil Fragile (about the breed)
Final grade definitive, established category
Free climbable suitable for free climbing
Font etiquette rules of conduct adopted in the bouldering region of France Fontainebleau
Fair means clean style
Foothold toe hook
Granite Granite
Glacier Glacier
Gear Equipment
Glacier Glacier
Gully Gutter
Harness Alcove
Harness belay loop Safety ring on the gazebo
Helmet Helmet
Highball Broken or very high bouldering “problems”, potentially causing a long flight with an unsuccessful landing in the event of an unexpected stall.
Hold up"Secure", hold on a rope
Hole"Hole"
Haul bag Baul
(heavy) siege style/heavy weight style/traditional Russian tactic Russian tactics, siege style
hanging corners geometry changing angles
Hand jam technique of wedging hands in parallel cracks
King size"King size
Knotted sling a lanyard or cord with knots tied, used as an intermediate belay point in areas where any hardware is prohibited
Insurance insurance
Larry Experts and advanced climbers usually use this word to refer to beginners.
Lip edge, edge, protrusion, rib
Lower-off Descent
Main peak Main peak
Matching a position in which both arms (or both legs) are on the same toe.
Major summit main peak
Mono Pocket or hook for one finger. "Trap" for weak ligaments.
Mixed terrain Mixed relief
Moraine Moraine
Motivation Motivation
Method method
Nine-millimeter rope 9 mm rope
Nail smooth, licked
On-sight“Pure” on-sight is only possible on rocks, when you see the route line, and you can only guess about the location and quality of the holds. I came, looked a little and climbed through, that’s what on-sight is.
Overhang 1) Overhang 2) Cornice
Overhanging section Overhanging area
Offwidth An extremely inconvenient gap, large for jamming a fist, but too small for jamming any other part of the body
Committing route a route requiring determination and risk
Comp (from competition) competitions
objective danger objectively dangerous (about the route)
Overgrown overgrown
Plastic training apparatus
Peak peak, peak
Piss bottle bottle used for minor needs
Pre-clip preliminary snapping of guy ropes
Pitch section of the route, one rope long
Problem 1) A chain of complex movements (bouldering). You can say a bouldering problem, meaning a bouldering route.
2) The route that "someone" is currently working on
3) Prepared (bolts are filled), but unclimbed route. Usually the person who prepared the track becomes its “owner” for some time, i.e. enjoys the right of first refusal. This route is marked with a red ribbon on the bottom bolt.
Problem bouldering course (problem)
Plateau plateau
Pro (from protection) belay points
Pro (from professional) professional climber
Pocket pocket hook
Potential perspective
Quickdraw guy
Rappelling rappelling
Rockfall rockfall
Ridge rib, ridge
Redpoint see Afterwork.
Redpoint Crux Even though you've already completed all the hardest moves, you'll almost always encounter another insurmountable redpoint crux obstacle, a difficult move that you can't do due to fatigue or because it's located at the top of the route. In other words, a place that will guarantee you will fail during your tireless attempts at redpointing.
Remote area inaccessible, little-visited area
Roof A radically overhanging or almost horizontal section of a rock (stand), a “ceiling”.
Rope manoeuvre working with rope
Rope gun a handy guy who hangs guy ropes for you
Roof heavily overhanging cornice, ceiling, roof
Route-setter A track director is, simply put, a preparer. It should be noted that in Russia only two people have an international route-setter diploma. This is Alexander Klenov (Ekaterinburg) and Alexander Kozlov (Moscow) - data as of summer 2008
Run-out 1) a route with sparse pitons. Falling is very scary.
2) As a verb it means: to climb a section without insurance.
3) An area where it is impossible to insure.
4) A route where there are such sections or there are many of them.
Rucksack backpack
Rebolting/regearing replacement (breaking) of old bolts (equipment) on the route
Screamer very deep fall.
Screwgate carabiner screw-on carabiner
Send successfully complete the route.
Set up (place, establish, install) camp set up camp
Short Roping your belayer doesn't give you the rope exactly when you need it most.
Sidepull the toe is more vertical than horizontal
Single-pitch one rope route
Sit down start/sit start (ss) start sitting
Sky hook sky hook (AAA what is this, explain - heavenly strike...?)
Slack the ropes sag or the command: “Give it up!”
Slack rope"Sagging"
Slap I really want to, but I’m not ready: a leap of despair on a hold on which I’m unlikely to be able to hold on.
Spongy mat rug, mat
Spotter Theoretically, a spotter is a person who closely monitors your every move on the track (problem), ready to “catch” you at any moment in order to prevent the possibility of an accident. In practice, a spotter is your friend who stands below, smoking a cigarette and looking around, studying what else is happening there. And if you “fly out” with a bad cry, perhaps you will be able to land on his raised hands.
Spindrift Extremely unpleasant drizzle, water or snow dust
Summit Vertex
Summit push Assault on the summit
Speed record speed record
Speed flying descent (speed riding) combined downhill skiing and paragliding
Slab plate
Shit bag package used in case of great need
Stunning (compelling) line amazing route line
Sequence of moves sequence of movements (when passing a key, for example)
Take! Team: Take it! (Pin it!)
To tie-in To tie (to a rope)
Toothbrush a toothbrush for cleaning magnesium from ingrained hooks
Topo Map (scheme) of routes with names
To unclip leach out
Trek Trekking
Try attempt
Technical terrain difficult “technical” terrain
To push a couple of grades skip a couple of categories (about progress)
Unclimbed route Route not taken
Untested uncertified equipment
Upgrade increase the category originally given to the route (problem)
Unrepeated unrepeatable, not repeated
Variation Route option
Virgin summit/wall virgin peak, wall
Veteran athlete over 35 years old
Whipper Just a deep fall.
White courage see chalk
Widget Gadget, device
Window weather window, short probability of successful summit attempt
Wishlist route list of routes you want to take
WC (World Cup) world Cup
Yosemite speed climbing tactics Speed climbing tactics in Yosemite
8000 x 14 14 eight-thousanders, program 14 eight-thousanders
7summits 7 peaks, 7 peaks program (7 highest points all continents)
***addition from Evgeny Buyanov (2008)
The dictionary is interesting, and it needs to be replenished. In particular, it would be necessary to add to all terms their pronunciation in Russian climbing “jargon”, since the spelling does not always fully correspond to the pronunciation. Peculiarity in English- a frequent discrepancy between spelling and pronunciation, but the “Russian” version of pronunciation often carries its own unique exoticism. Of course, not all terms are “settled”, but those that are “stuck in the teeth” of the “cool elite” of rock runners can be introduced into the mass consciousness of “dummies” for better “boiling” and “infusion”... The illustrations are excellent. , are impressive. The expressions on their faces are unique. And all the girls are “high class” (if we remember the “class struggle”). Here the linking of photos to terms (both direct in meaning and figurative in some ways) can be improved. At the same time, a certain humorous subtext (in meaning and consonance) greatly helps to consolidate the variant of the term. After all, there are probably our own, “native” terms here. They should also be in the dictionary. In those things where we historically have priority, the terms should rightfully be ours.
We were the first to “invent” galoshes and “seat seats” and began to use them. That’s how it should be called “patriotic”, in our opinion. In what we were and are the first, foreigners cannot tell us...
They are starting to publish a series of articles about the basics of mountaineering. The first material in the series is devoted to where, as a rule, any person begins to get acquainted with a rope - with the top rope.
There are the following types of belay: gymnastic, top belay, bottom belay and mass belay.
Gymnastic belay - manual belay, without a rope - used when climbing low rock routes (boulderings) and in the initial sections of climbing with a bottom belay.
Top belay used in rock climbing and when belaying a non-leader (2nd - 3rd participant) on a climbing route. With top belay, the rope goes up from the climber, while the belayer can be either above or below the climber.
Bottom belay used for belaying a leader in rock climbing and mountaineering. The rope goes down from the leader and passes through guys attached to the relief.
Mass (railing insurance) used when it is necessary to ensure safety on difficult terrain for a large number of people, or when it is necessary to travel with a very heavy backpack.
EQUIPMENT FOR UPPER BELIANCE
Top belay is performed using a single or double dynamic rope and a belay device (hereinafter referred to as the SA). For mountaineering, it is recommended to use belay devices of the ATC type (reverso, basket, Sticht washer and similar) or a UIAA unit. In rock climbing, belay devices with increased friction (not automatic) such as Gri-Gri and devices similar in operating principle have become widespread.
ATTACHING TO A ROPE WITH A TOP BElay
It is also possible to fasten the rope to the power loop of the safety system using two coupling carabiners. This method is especially often used on climbing walls, and is only applicable for top ropes.
Snapping a carabiner through two loops of the safety system, parallel to the power ring, as well as snapping it into one carabiner is DANGEROUS!!! With this type of fastening, the load during a break may fall on the carabiner latch. The latch, depending on the design and direction of application of force, can withstand from 100 to 700 kgf (1-7 kN), which is less than the possible force when jerking.
The belayer attaches the belay device to the power loop of the belay system using a coupling carabiner. The wedge-shaped slots and/or teeth on the belay device should face down, the free end of the safety rope passes through the wedge-shaped slots in the belay.
When used as a UIAA control unit, use a pear-shaped coupling carabiner marked HMS or the letter H in a circle. It is important to control the position of the free end of the rope - it should not come into contact with the coupling and/or carabiner latch. Rubbing the rope against the coupling can cause it to unlock, opening the carabiner latch and causing loss of belay.
If the belayer is higher than the climber, then it is convenient to use an ATS-type control system in guide mode (auto-blocking). In this mode, the ATS is a high-friction device (similar to Gri-gri) and the load on the belayer during a jerk is significantly reduced. However, the PBX in auto-blocking mode is not automatic device. If it is necessary to release the rope, the device must be blocked with a Munter-Mule knot.
The device is attached to a belay station and a rope is threaded into it, as shown in the photo. The SS and the rope in the SS are secured using coupling carabiners.
PREPARATION FOR ORGANIZING TOP INSURANCE
The safety rope should be sorted and laid in front and slightly to the side of the belayer so that he does not step on the rope when moving during belay. The end of the rope going to the climber should come out from above.
A knot is tied one meter from the end of the rope, which will prevent loss of belay if the rope is too short. The recommended knot is half a grapevine knot.
The rope can also be tied to the belayer's or station's belay system.
The area for the rope and the belayer should be as flat as possible - without large stones, bushes, etc. During belaying, the belayer should be able to move around for better control and visibility of the climber.
If the platform for the belayer is not level and/or dangerous, it is possible that the belayer may fall, and also if the weight of the climber greatly exceeds the weight of the belayer, then a self-belay is organized for the belayer, which should prevent him from falling or being pulled up during a jerk.
CONTROL AND MUTUAL CONTROL AT TOP INSURANCE
Before climbing, the climber and the belayer check the correct organization of the entire safety chain. The check is carried out according to the following scheme - ABCDE. Where A is anchor, station. B - backle, buckles on the safety system. C - carabiners, D - device, E - end of rope, end of the rope (you can come up with your own memorization scheme - the result is important).
It is important to check the entire safety chain - incl. safety system, knots, carabiners and control system from a partner. Mutual control allows you to avoid many mistakes and dangerous situations.
COMMUNICATION
When climbing, proper communication is the basis of safety. Commands are given loudly in the direction of the person to whom it is addressed. A common mistake is that commands are given quietly and in the wrong direction.
If the command is heard, then the command “Got it!” is given in response. If not heard or partially heard, then the command “I don’t understand” is given. Repeat".
Before you start climbing, especially with a new partner, you should always discuss the commands used and their meaning.
It is important that all commands are heard and understood clearly! Loss of communication and communication errors often lead to accidents.
If there is direct visibility between the climber and the belayer, you can duplicate commands using gestures, the meaning of which should also be agreed upon in advance.
The following commands are used.
- The insurance is ready.
- Give.
- Choose.
- Secure it.
- Disruption.
- Self-insurance.
- Down. On a rope.
- Down by climbing.
- Understood.
- Didn't understand. Repeat.
And others.
Before starting to climb, the climber must ask the question “Is the belay ready?” And he doesn’t start moving until he receives the answer “Insurance is ready!”
UPPER BELIANCE TECHNIQUE
The insurer carries out insurance wearing shoes. Belaying barefoot or with rock slippers half off is dangerous!
The stance and position of the legs must be chosen in such a way that a possible jerk does not lead to a fall or impact on the terrain. The usual stance is facing the rock with one leg in front. The hand holding the rope should be as far away from the rock as possible - this will prevent it from hitting the terrain when jerking and possible loss of insurance.
When the climber moves upward, the belayer selects slack in the rope so that it is slightly tensioned, but does not pull the climber and does not interfere with his movement.
The most common mistake when top belaying is the incorrect technique of intercepting hands on the rope, when the belayer clamps the load and free end of the rope in one hand above the belay device.
With this position, the effectiveness of the belay device is reduced by almost 10 times and the friction becomes insufficient to maintain a fall. In practice, the belayer tries to hold the fall with one hand simply through the carabiner - because The belay device does not work in this position.
For correct and safe belaying, the belayer intercepts the rope only below the belay device and constantly controls the rope below the device with at least one hand. In this position, the rope bends correctly through the bell and the friction is sufficient to maintain the fall.
CORRECT INTERCEPTION TECHNIQUE (MountSchool video)
You should not try to make very long rope interceptions - it is better to do 2-3 short and quick interceptions than one very long one. With long interceptions, the rope is pulled out more slowly and becomes more tangled.
If the belayer does not have time to select the rope at the same speed as the climber, he must inform him about this, and he must adjust the speed.
At the command “Secure”, the belayer pulls the rope and holds it. If the rope needs to be held for a long time, the belayer blocks the control system using the Muntera-Mula knot (more details in the next article).
The descent can be organized by parachuting on a rope and by climbing.
When rappelling, the belayer holds the rope in his hand or moves it with both hands. The descent speed is no more than 1 meter per second. Particular care must be taken when climbing cornices, ledges and when landing.
When descending by climbing, the belayer provides a rope with a slight slack so as not to interfere with the climber’s movement.
Organizing a descent when belaying an ATS-type control system in auto-locking mode is quite complex and is described in a separate material
FORCES AND LOADS
In the event of a fall with the top rope and in the absence of errors in the work of the belayer, the climber almost immediately hangs on the rope - a significant downward movement and jerk usually do not occur. But even with ideal work by the belayer, the load on the person who has fallen will exceed 2.5-3 times his weight. The jerk on the belayer will be twice the weight of the person who has fallen off, and the load on the upper point, where the forces are added up, will reach five times the weight of the person who has fallen off. In case of even minor errors in insurance, these figures can increase TWO-THREE times. The load on the top point can reach one or more tons, and the belayer can be pulled with a force of 400 kgf. (4 kN)
Awareness of possible forces in the system is necessary in order to assess risks, consciously use the correct belay technique and manage these risks.
ADDITIONAL FEATURES
When using a double rope and belaying from above using an ATC in the auto-blocking mode, it is possible to belay two climbers climbing at the same time. The distance between them is chosen so that they do not interfere with each other when moving. The use of this technique greatly increases the speed of movement of the trio.
There are situations when belaying without a belay device is applicable (through a carabiner, tree, rocky ledge, etc.). But this is a topic for a separate discussion, because... the technique is applicable only if there is no likelihood of falling along vertical terrain and requires the climber to adequately assess the risks. If a mistake occurs, the belayer may injure his hands and let go of the rope.
insurance
Self-insurance
Railing
Mutual
Spot
Horizontal
Variable
Simultaneous
Upper
Vertical
Static
Dynamic
Lower
Static
Dynamic
Self-insurance
Self-insurance –complex of technical
techniques,
providing protection
climber from falling on
great depth.
Self-insurance
carried out at
individual assistance
without safety equipment
interactions with others
members of the group and
wears to a large extent
prophylactic
character.
Mutual insurance
Appointment of mutualinsurance - hold
broken comrade
bunch.
When character
surmountable terrain
raises doubts about
opportunity to stay
in case of failure by one's own
forces, climbers
tied together in bundles
two or three people and
carry out mutual
insurance.
Spot belay
Insurance is organized byas follows: install
two or three points of insurance (equipment
specific for each species
relief) at a short distance
from each other. Moreover, all points
must be independent from each other
friend. Carabiners are connected with a loop
from a sling or rope with a diameter not
less than 8 mm. United like this
thus the points are called base.
While near the base, the participant
climbing must be fastened to
base (namely to the rope,
connecting point) using
self-insurance. All additional
safety devices also
must be attached to the base.
Railing insurance
A rope is called a railingthe ends of which are fixed to
two bases. Maybe
use of several
intermediate points
insurance. Railing use
in mountaineering for movement along
difficult areas together with
other methods of insurance, and
to move relatively
light areas (in which,
however, failure is possible
fatal or
severe injury to the participant)
without insurance.
Variable insurance
Insurance performedgroup members
alternately.
And the insurance is on top
B insurance "fishing rod"
In insurance from below
G simultaneous
Top belay
Belay points are located aboveparticipant. The rope goes through these
points and goes down to the participant. IN
in the process of climbing, it moves upward or
down and the person exercising
insurance, pulls (“chooses”)
extra rope or gives it away. So
Thus, in case of failure, the participant
hanging on a rope a little lower than that
the place to which he was able to rise or
go down. Snatch load and risk
get injured in this case
minimal. With top belay
mandatory use
dynamic rope (stretching under
load about 30%). Only in this
In case a breakdown can be safe
Bottom belay
Belay points are located along the entire route, or they are requiredinstall in suitable locations. One end of the rope is tied to
participant, and the belayer holds in his hands a section of rope several
meters from it. While climbing, the participant
threads (“snaps”) the rope into the carabiner at the point to which
ascends or removes (“snaps out”) the rope during descent.
At the same time, the belayer gradually “gives out” or “chooses” the rope.
Thus, in the event of a breakdown, the participant hangs not far from that point
insurance to which he was able to climb or descend. The most dangerous
is a situation when an athlete breaks down while trying
“snap” the rope to the next belay point or immediately after
leaching. At this moment the last belay point is located
much lower, and the fall height can be up to 10 (and sometimes 2040 with rare elements) meters. This method is
dangerous and requires great skill from the belayer.
When under belaying, only a dynamic rope should be used,
since the fall experienced by the climber can be very large
(jerk factor 2)
10. Bottom rope
11. Jerk Factor
Factorjerk or coefficient
fall – depth ratio
free fall leading to length
rope issued to the belayer.
12.
A 1 meter fall on a static rope candevelop sufficient force to damage or
accident.
We must remember that human body Maybe
withstand a jerk force of 12 kN without serious risk
damage, and no more than 18 kN.
This force value of 18 kN is incorporated into the lower
limitation for all elements of the safety harness
systems.
UIIA restrictions:
Hooks: 25 kN
Carabiners: 20 kN
Guys: 22 kN
Straps: 15 kN
13.
Drop: 2mSling length: 1 m
Weight of the insured: 80 kg
Fall factor: 2
Drop: 10m
Dynamic length
ropes: 5 m
Weight of the insured: 80 kg
Fall factor: 2
Drop: 10m
Dynamic length
ropes: 5.2 m
Weight of the insured: 80 kg
Fall factor: 1.9
Drop: 10m
Dynamic length
ropes: 9 m
Weight of the insured: 80 kg
Fall factor: 1.1
Jerking force from
static sling:
Jerking force with
dynamic rope:
Jerking force with
dynamic rope
on the insured: 9 kN
on the top hook:
Jerking force with
dynamic rope
on the insured: 6 kN
Top belay
- organization of belaying, in which the rope goes upward from the climber. For example, when climbing on rocks, when the belayer is on the ground, and the rope from the belayer passes through the top station to the climber. In multipitch climbing, when the first participant (at the top) takes over the second participant. The belayer can be either below or above the relative climber.
Bottom belay
- organization of belaying, in which the rope goes down from the climber. The belayer is always below the climber. For example, when climbing on rocks, when the belayer is on the ground, and the rope from the belayer is snapped into the guy ropes by the climber (the leader). In the event of a breakdown, the leader hangs on the guy closest to him.
Top belay via descender
Procedure:
● the rope is arranged in such a way that it is freely given to the climber;
● a control knot is tied at the end of the rope (to prevent the rope from slipping out of the device after the end of the free length);
● the belay device is snapped into the carabiner (according to the manufacturer’s recommendations);
● the carabiner with the coupling on the belay device is snapped into the power ring of the system;
● stable position of the belayer, one leg in front;
● the load should not fall on the carabiner coupling;
● while belaying, your hands must be kept at least 10 cm from the belay device.
Descend smoothly, without acceleration, thread the rope through the descender. Place both hands below the belay device during descent. When communicating with a partner, confirm commands.
ATTENTION!
Before starting climbing, check the readiness of the belay by cross-questioning: is the belay ready and answering about readiness.
ATTENTION!
When top belaying at a station, use two carabiners with a coupling, directed in opposition, i.e. in different directions:
Load end- part of the rope going to the climber.
Free end- the second part of the rope coming out of the device
Five steps of top rope
Control the free end of the rope (coming out of the belay device) with your hand:
6 - starting position
ATTENTION!
Position yourself directly under the climber (1.5 0 2 m), tie a knot at the end of the rope:
Top belay via belay device
When climbing multi-pitch routes, the following techniques are used to belay the bottom participant(s).
You need:
place the belay device at the station either in auto-locking mode or using additional friction through a carabiner;
Acceptable and unacceptable options for top belay:
If you need to free your hands while belaying through a rappel device, also use a reef + control knot.
Invalid top rope options:
You need:
Use only coupling carabiners;
constantly monitor the loose rope;
select ropes without losing control of the free end or sagging.
Unlocking the belay device under load
To release the rope and unlock the belay device under load (in auto-locking mode), the following solutions are possible:
option 1: unlock using an auxiliary carabiner;
option 2: movement of the carbine up and down (for a slight descent of 1-2 m).
ATTENTION!
Be careful when unlocking your device! Secure the rope in advance with a “UIAA” or “stirrup” knot, snapping it into the system’s power ring.
Gymnastic belay
It is used when climbing short or bouldering routes (4-5 moves), when climbing with a traverse, as well as when starting to move with a bottom rope before snapping in the first quickdraws (the first three meters). The main purpose of gymnastic belay is to prevent the participant from tipping over and hitting their head when falling.
Procedure:
● stable position of the insurer;
● arms raised up at the ready;
● attention is directed to the climber;
● knees spread to the sides to prevent the belayer from falling on his feet;
● the arms are slightly bent at the elbows and, when released, rest against the upper back in the area of the shoulder blades;
● after a fall, it is necessary to soften the fall by holding your partner so that he does not hit the back of his head.
Bottom belay
Bottom belay is used when climbing both multi-pitch and short (single-pitch) routes.
Procedure:
● insurance is carried out using a belay device;
● the belayer is tied to the end of the rope (on multi-pitch routes), or a half-grapevine knot is tied at the end (on single-pitch routes);
● the rope is moved so that the end of the rope, which is tied into the leader, lies on top;
● if possible, provide a gymnastic belay until the first guy rope is snapped into place.
ATTENTION! It is recommended as a leader to clip a second quickdraw from the waist, this means you have less rope to pick up, making it much less likely that you will fall to the ground if you fall early in the climb.
- provide and select a rope in a timely manner during belaying;
- The belayer must position himself directly under the first intermediate belay point until the moment of snapping occurs. Next, move a little to the side (1 m) so that in case of a fall the leader does not fall on the rope and the belayer.
ATTENTION! The strongest jerk on the belayer occurs during a fall on the first quickdraws.
Additional insurance for the belayer is necessary when there is a large difference in weight and when belaying under an eaves.
As soon as movement along the mountainous terrain becomes dangerous, climbers tie together with a rope of 2-3 people and carry out mutual belay. The movement of partners in the link involves high level concerted actions. The occurrence of danger for one of the partners must be immediately compensated by the corresponding actions of a comrade, up to holding him in case of a break with the rope connecting them.
Depending on the order of movement and the location of the partners in the chain, there is a distinction between simultaneous insurance, when the partners in the chain move simultaneously (Fig. 26), and alternating, when one of the partners moves and a friend belays him
(Fig. 27). Having gone up and belaying his partner from above, the climber performs the top belay (Fig. 28, 29, 30). At the beginning of the upward movement of the leader of the ligament, the one remaining below carries out the lower belay (Fig. 31).
With a top belay, there is virtually no excess slack in the rope, which is why the free fall and the corresponding dynamic load when holding it are minimal. The hold is carried out without etching the rope - static belay. In any case, when a free fall occurs, the rope must be etched to compensate.
The magnitude of the dynamic load perceived by the belayer when the partner in the rope or the fastening points and the rope connecting them falls can vary widely. It depends on the relative position of the partners on the terrain, intermediate fastening points (hooks, hooks, ice axes, etc.), as well as on the nature of the friction surfaces (carabiners, ledges and bends of the slope). This entire system is called a safety chain (Fig. 32).
If one of the above methods is not enough to achieve reliability, it is necessary to increase the total friction at the belay point by combining different methods (hook-protrusion, shoulder-protrusion, etc.). This type of insurance is called combined (see Fig. 53).
The main means of compensating and regulating dynamic load (jerk) is dynamic belay, or etching of the rope along any friction surface (carabiners, pitons, ice ax shaft, belayer's body). The work of friction in the etching area absorbs the energy of the falling body. The stretching of the ligament rope and other links of the safety chain (harness system, knots, self-belaying loops), as well as the elasticity of the body of the fallen climber, have a shock-absorbing effect.
The general case of a fall with a bottom belay is characterized by approximately the following scheme (Fig. 33): the person who has fallen first falls along the line of falling water, and when the safety rope becomes taut, he falls in a semi-pendulum. If the person who has fallen is located to the side, but at the level of the anchorage or safety point, the fall occurs as a pure pendulum. If the point of failure is on the vertical with the point of anchorage, the pendulum phase is completely eliminated and the fall will be free, i.e., the person who has fallen off will fly to the level of the point of anchorage, then to the same depth below it, and only then will the safety rope come into effect.
The speed that a falling person can gain and, accordingly, the kinetic energy developed during a fall, in the general case, depend on the weight of the falling person’s body, the amount of excess of the fall point above the last point of fastening the rope in the safety chain, as well as on the steepness and nature of the terrain.
It is possible to understand the specific values of the physical characteristics of dynamic insurance and their interdependence by considering the most unfavorable case of free fall from the point of view of the resulting loads, when the points of failure and fastening are on the same vertical, and there is no friction on the slope. To hold a falling body, you need to apply a force counteracting the fall to it. The greater this force, the shorter the braking distance. It will be as many times less than the total depth of the fall (twice the excess of the stall point over the fastening point plus the length of the braking path) as the braking force exceeds the weight of the falling body (Fig. 34).
In any case, the main means of regulating the braking force is the etching of the ligament rope along the friction surfaces by the belayer. In this case, two problems are solved simultaneously. On the one hand, the braking force should not exceed that permissible for the weakest link of the safety chain, and on the other hand, the shorter the braking distance, the smaller the overall depth of the fall and, accordingly, the smaller the possibility of injury from impacts on the slope.
The elasticity of the rope itself, the tightening of the knots and the shock-absorbing effect of deformations of the harness system and the human body itself, of course, have a positive effect on the holding process, softening the jerk force. You just need to know exactly the elastic limit for each type of rope in order to correctly take this factor into account in the operation of the safety chain when the leader in the rope fails and consider it as a reliability reserve, like the other listed factors.
To better understand the operation of a safety chain, it is necessary to consider the load limits allowed on its individual links. Taking into account that the extreme links of such a chain are two climbers, the first link of consideration will be the leader of the chain at the moment of his breakdown.
Broken. Research by the UIAA commission has recorded cases in which a person subjected to a jerk in a harness (parachuting) withstood a load of over 800 kg. For mountaineering practice, the UIAA commission gives a threshold of no higher than 400 kg for such loads. This threshold is set taking into account the fact that the climber at the moment of the fall jerk is in a combined safety system (chest harness interlocked with a gazebo and a belt). Moreover, it is indicated that in some unfavorable cases, studies and at lower loads were sufficient severe injuries spine and internal organs. Therefore, when learning to belay, you should focus on the value of 400 kg as the limit. The permissible working load should be considered 250-300 kg.
Rope. The quality of modern climbing ropes is not assessed by static strength to tear, as was previously accepted, but by their elasticity and ability to absorb dynamic shock. Currently, the maximum force generated on a rope when statically (without pickling) holding a falling load is 80 kg. According to UIAA standards, this force should not exceed 1200 kg, and for the best imported samples it reaches 800 kg. Nevertheless, the manufacturer also puts a warning sign on such ropes that they can be belayed only in dynamic belay mode, i.e. with pickling. This means that even on ropes with very high elasticity, static belaying should not be carried out - its rigid fastening to the belay point (or, as they say, the situation of a dull jerk).
What can happen in the safety chain if the rope of the belayer, when the leader falls, is clamped tightly or is rigidly fixed in advance? Braking in this case will occur only due to the stretching (elasticity) of the rope. The dynamic jerk, even with high elasticity of the rope, will be so great that one of the links in the belayer-rope-anchoring point-the belayer chain cannot withstand it (Fig. 35). The force along the entire length of the rope used for belaying is not constant. It changes as it goes around friction objects, decreasing by an amount corresponding to the work of friction when the rope is etched along this object (Fig. 36). So, when bending around a standard carabiner with a coverage angle close to 180, the forces in the rope on both sides of the carabiner will show a 2:1 ratio. When going around rocky ledges, the ratio can increase to 5i: 1. Thus, the force acting on the belayer can reach him, decreasing many times, which will ultimately lead to the transformation of dynamic belay into static belay with all the ensuing negative consequences.
To avoid the disorienting influence of many objects of friction and to make it easier for the leader of the ligament to pull the ligament rope, straightening techniques, a safety chain by hanging additional carabiners, extension loops on the hooks, or using a double rope will help (Fig. 37, 38, 39, 40, 41).
Attachment points. In most cases, they are the weakest link in the safety chain. This especially applies to rock pitons. There are no objective criteria for the strength and reliability of driving rock pitons. Statistical conclusions drawn from tests by the UIAA and the Soviet Safety Commission show that 50-60% of hammered rock pitons do not withstand a 600 kg jerk. If we take into account that the upper point of the belay (the upper hook of the safety chain), when holding the person who has fallen, is affected by the sum of the forces arising in the rope on both sides of the carabiner (Fig. 42), it will become clear: the limit of effort permissible by the UIAA, which falls on the person who has fallen, in itself makes this the hook is unreliable. It should also be noted that the resultant of these forces may not coincide in direction with the plane of greatest efficient work hook
In practice, it should be assumed that for an average standard rock hook with a blade length of 100-120 mm, the permissible load can be taken no higher than 400-450 kg. In this case, taking into account the division of the load on the carbine, the force on the person who has fallen off should not exceed 250-300 kg, which corresponds to the standards established by the UIAA.
Perhaps the only reliable belay point on mountainous terrain is a monolithic rocky ledge. If you put a loop of the main rope or strong tape on it and attach a carabiner, such a belay point will withstand any load that occurs in the safety chain (Fig. 43). Unfortunately, such convenient points are not often found along any climbing route. Therefore, to ensure his safety, the climber has to use many other points of intermediate rope fastening, in addition to ledges and rock pitons. Here is an artificially made eye or ice column, and an avalanche shovel for belaying in the snow or a firn hook, and an ice hammer, and an ice auger, and finally, just an ice ax. Each of these insurance items can reliably perform its function only if the climber knows the degree of reliability of their use and has some experience working with them. Unfortunately, it is now impossible to express any certainty regarding embedded elements (stoppers, hexes, etc.), increasingly used for insurance and other purposes. Due to the wide variety of forms of bookmarks and the even wider range of the nature of rock cracks and rocks that make up the climbing routes, collecting statistical data on their reliability is difficult to implement. This, in turn, obliges climbers to be especially attentive to the use of such belay points, to carefully compare all their characteristics (size, shape, design) with specific terrain conditions, sizes and shapes of cracks, and the direction of a possible jerk.
To increase the reliability of such fastening points, they are blocked (Fig. 44).
Blocking pitons, straightening the safety chain, passing the rope through the eaves, hanging bookmarks and much more in route work today cannot be imagined without the use of loops made of tape or rope. The strength of the hinges must correspond to the load that may occur at the attachment point. Loops made of steel cable with a diameter of 1 to 3-5 mm are effective for bookmarks. And in this case, the diameter of the cable must correspond to the expected loads on the bookmark and meet the purpose of using the bookmarks. For example, for bookmarks that perform auxiliary work (hanging a backpack, ladder), there is no need to take a cable with a diameter of 5 mm. One of the most difficult moments homemade loops from a cable - its splicing. Without detailed consultation with a specialist, without confident skills acquired by practicing cable connection, you cannot begin weaving loops to the bookmarks used on the ascent route.
Tape loops also have a weak link. Here the places where it is stitched require special attention. You can avoid stitching (the least reliable joining method) only by using tape tying. Of course, the appearance of a connecting knot on the loop creates a certain inconvenience when working with such tapes, but the strength is fully guaranteed. It is best to tie the ribbon with a grapevine knot (see p. 352) - it is reliable, easy to knit, can be untied without much effort after removing the load, and most importantly, has no tendency to unravel itself during operation.
The carabiner serves as the main link in the safety chain - it connects the climber to the ligament rope, and the latter to the pitons on the route and performs many other functions during the climb. Currently, there are many different types of carabiners in terms of shape and range of applications. In a safety chain, the carabiner carries the same load as the hook and lashing rope. Therefore, when choosing the type of carbine, you should always remember this.
When hanging a carabiner on a hook, you need to check how the rope goes into it, so that its movement does not untwist the carabiner coupling, and during its passage there are no unnecessary kinks and “wings” that will slow down or completely stop the movement of the rope through the carabiner. Where the carabiner, due to circumstances (and it is better to avoid them by using a quickdraw loop), rests on a rocky surface, you need to ensure that its coupling is only on top and is not clamped under load.
In the practice of mountaineering, a hook-catcher carabiner is used, the main purpose of which is to secure the hook at the moment of knocking it out of the rock. It is unacceptable to use such carbines where they, even for a short time, work without insurance.
Insurer. The effort with which the belayer must hold the rope when his partner in the rope falls off is significantly less than what is perceived by the person who has fallen off. It depends on the number and nature of intermediate friction surfaces in the safety chain on the way to the belayer from the point at which the hold occurs. The degree of change in this force can only be estimated approximately by the force required to pull the rope through the safety chain. The first, going up the route and placing the rope in the next carabiner, must warn the belayer about this, and he, in turn, approximately estimates the degree of change in the force from the last hook to his hands.
The ability to assess the actual force with which the belayer holds the rope comes only with experience. Invaluable assistance in acquiring it is provided by training at a belay stand, equipped according to the requirements for testing belay equipment according to UIAA standards and allowing you to change belay points depending on the tasks assigned to the leader and the belayer himself. Working at a belay stand will also help you gain the necessary skills in choosing the right position and method of belaying, ensuring a high degree of reliability and the ability to quickly control the rope.
To ensure reliable operation, the belayer should always have a set of necessary equipment ready, which should be at the climber’s hands: placed on the climber or in his pockets.
Not a single climber, when belaying, can know in advance exactly at what moment his partner will need his help. He must always be ready for this.
When working, the belayer must select an effective lanyard and organize it on an independent hook (hooks, ledge or a combination of them). The belay must absorb the jerk and protect the belayer from falling off the belay station. To do this, depending on the terrain conditions, self-belaying is organized at two or even three fastening points (see Fig. 51), and the belayer should have a clear idea of what could happen if the top hook (or any other of the intermediate), how to ensure and place a sufficient reserve of rope for pickling; the belayer carefully and continuously watches the movement of the rope, and if possible, then the leader moving forward along the route, and in case of a fall, he adjusts the required length of the rope, secures it after stopping the fall and provides assistance to the person who has fallen.
Each individual case of failure is characterized by its own unique characteristics. And the actions of the belayer must be proportionate to these features, including the size of the rope to be etched. It must be remembered that the established rule for etching the rope when falling on a plumb line of 0.5 x 1 m can entail complex consequences for the person who fell if his fall occurred on a flatter terrain.
Safety system - harness and gazebo (Fig. 45)." Being a guarantor of the personal safety of the climber, it is primarily intended to fulfill the conditions for compiling a climbing harness and the safety of a person during his possible fall on mountain terrain.
The UIAA has developed mandatory requirements for this type of personal equipment, which is important in ensuring the quality of the safety chain. Its design must be such that a person, after a breakdown, can hang in it for at least 10 minutes without pain, while maintaining the ability to freely move his arms and legs. The load should be evenly distributed between the harness and the gazebo. To avoid an overturning moment, the system suspension location should not be below the sternum (Fig. 46).
But in the event of a fall, the load on the climber’s body should be distributed approximately in the following proportions: 1/3 on the harness and 2/3 on the gazebo. It is unacceptable to use the system in parts: when working in only one gazebo, a breakdown can lead to severe injuries to the spine (Fig. 47). Hanging in a chest harness after 12-15 minutes can lead to irreversible consequences due to compression of the person’s chest by the harness straps.
The safety system must withstand a static load of 1600 kg, and each of its loops must be able to withstand at least 800 kg. Metal parts (buckles, rings, etc.) must be kept to an absolute minimum; they must all have a radius of at least 3 mm and not be located under the arms, in the kidney area or between the legs. All connecting seams should be made with a contrasting thread to make it easier to detect their wear. Moreover, the ribbons need to be sewn together with threads of the same material as the ribbons themselves. It is not allowed to make frequent transverse seams at the places where the system elements are stitched together.
A tape, any part of which turns into a loop, when connected to a ligament rope, a round metal buckle or a ring, must be sealed according to the thimble principle (Fig. 48). At all points where the loops of the system are connected to the rope, abrasions of the tapes, fraying, and tears of the seams are unacceptable. In this form, the safety system cannot be used either during classes or on the ascent route.
Tie the harness to the gazebo with a piece of soft main rope or half rope (9 mm), tape 20 mm wide and 2 mm thick. It is strictly forbidden to use for this purpose the braid of the main rope - a “stocking” or a cord, even a double one. Under dynamic load, the “stocking” of the main rope breaks at a maximum load of 170 kg! The double loop of the cord cannot withstand the loads required at this point. To make arguments on this topic convincing, a small experiment should be carried out in any lesson. A load of 80 kg, attached by a loop from a cord, is dropped from a height of 1 m. The lower end of the loop is rigidly fixed to a hook.
When connecting a harness with a harness or even loops of one chest harness, it is unacceptable to use a carabiner (Fig. 49).
Summarizing the above operating conditions of individual links of the safety chain, we can derive some general rules, the implementation of which is mandatory for both partners in the chain: - the bottom safety net must only be dynamic; the maximum force on the upper hook, which holds the broken one, should not exceed 400-450 kg;
- the exit of the leader of the bundle higher than 2.5-3 m above the last point of fastening the rope in the safety chain is unsafe for him and can, if the leader fails, lead to the destruction of this point (for example, the hook being pulled out);
- the safety chain must provide the ability to maneuver the rope;
- the strength of the fastening points should be assessed in relation to the magnitude and direction of possible loads during failure;
- when organizing an insurance point, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of prompt actions by the insurer after the successful detention of the person who has fallen;
- having arrived at the point from where insurance will be organized for the partner in the link, the leader first of all organizes reliable self-insurance;
- before changing the leader and starting other manipulations within the ligament, both partners must be on independent self-insurance loops;
- the replaced leader of the team can start moving only after a clear command from his partner “Belay is ready!”
It should be noted that in mountaineering a way to stabilize dynamic belay and control the braking process has not yet been found. Persistent searches are also being carried out in our country and abroad. Examples include the Sticht puck and figure eight, which have become popular, as well as the device of the Leningrader B. L. Kashevnik. These and many other devices are an undoubted step forward in improving the mutual insurance system. However, all of them still have a serious drawback: the regulation of the braking force in the process of holding a partner is still carried out manually by the belayers.
The most promising direction of search was the development of shock absorbers for damping impulse loads. The first samples of such a shock absorber, manufactured by NIITGP, are distinguished by their simplicity and manufacturability. It is made from tape fabrics with a three-dimensional structure. The principle of its operation is based on multiple plastic deformation with sequential destruction of one or several layers of tape in the form of woven loops. The structure of the belts and the design of the shock absorbers make it possible to widely program their response threshold depending on the application conditions. Unfortunately, such shock absorbers are still manufactured of one type, with a threshold response load of 360-400 kg, which does not provide high reliability for rock pitons. For example, the upper hook, on which the hold will take place using a shock absorber, will have up to 600 kg of load. Thus, the task of moving the leader will be set in advance with a 50-60% possibility of the hook being pulled out if it falls. With further improvement of a shock absorber of this type, this force should be reduced to 250-300 kg.
Another significant drawback of this shock absorber design is that it is disposable and cannot be restored after operation. In addition, due to the very high threshold of operation, it cannot be used to ensure safety when driving on the most unreliable surfaces of mountain terrain - snow-firn and non-steep ice slopes. Here the shock absorber response threshold should be between 60-70 kg.
On such slopes, the main means of insurance is an ice ax, which is the weakest link in the overall safety chain, with a pullout force of no more than 120-150 kg. This means that, taking into account the division of the load on the ice ax shaft, the jerk force on the part of the one who breaks it should not exceed 60-75 kg. This is where the requirement for such an initial shock absorber response threshold comes from.
To realize this condition, the “pigtail” shock absorber, so to speak, a hand-made shock absorber, used at all stages of climber training, deserves attention.
The “pigtail” shock absorber was proposed by master of sports V.D. Saratovkin from Novosibirsk. The principle of its operation is based on the same principles as the mentioned NIITGP shock absorber. It can be made from a separate piece of main rope (???)
This kind of shock absorber is easily and quickly manufactured and, most importantly, restored. During one practical lesson on belaying in the snow, he can withstand 3 jerks in a row, after which he completely recovers in 15-20 minutes. To do this, you need a supply of bandage, nylon cord and a small folding knife. Moreover, when moving, say, from a rocky part of the route to a snowy slope, which, due to its condition, does not guarantee the organization of reliable insurance, you can, by making a short stop and tying a shock absorber on the safety rope itself, can safely move forward. The reliability of insurance in the event of a possible failure is almost one hundred percent.
In relation to the organization of a bottom belay point on rocks using a pigtail shock absorber, if there is a double-sided clamp designed by B. L. Kashevnik in the group, it is possible to achieve almost complete automation of the process of belaying a partner (Fig. 51). With this scheme, the belayer freely releases the safety rope through the clamp as the leader moves upward in the rope. If the leader falls, the belayer can completely let go of the rope, since the Kashevnik’s double-sided “fish” clamp, having excellent shock-absorbing properties, itself begins to slow down the rope pulled through it by the breaking force. And if its activation threshold (300 kg) is not enough to stop the rope, the pigtail shock absorber begins to operate.
The effective use of all three energy dissipation mechanisms determines the increased reliability of the pigtail in comparison with other systems. Its disadvantage is a certain bulkiness, but if you knit a “braid” from a soft rope, its size will be significantly reduced and it will be more compact.
A prerequisite for the complete operation of this scheme is the removal of the hook on which the “pigtail” is attached from the first (safety) hook at the belay point by at least 3 m in height. This is to prevent the clamp from being pulled tight against the first hook, which could occur if the shock absorber is fully deployed. In this case, the system ceases to perform its functions even half-rope) 5 m long or tied at the ends of the tying rope in front of each partner in the tying. The shock absorber loops are knitted sequentially, like an endless knitting of a bowline knot (Fig. 50). Each interlacing of loops is tied with a medical bandage 5 cm wide or a nylon cord with a breaking force of 10 kg. The “pigtail” works by alternately breaking the connecting rings. The loops, having lost the base connecting them, unravel one by one, releasing up to 20 cm of rope in one cycle. The kinetic energy of a falling body is dissipated due to the successive tension of the cords before they break: friction of the rope loops against each other and against the cords, internal friction of the rope, the arbor and the climber’s body.
The pigtail shock absorber is described in more detail in methodological manual, released by the Central Advertising and Information Bureau "Tourist" in 1988.
