On rock climbing, caving, and sometimes on regular hikes, it may be necessary to climb a rope. For these purposes you can use different devices, but most often they use zhumar (there is even a word for it - “zhumar”). However, sometimes it is not at hand... Now we will look at how to climb a rope with a jumar and a prusik.
At first glance, it may seem that while lifting the jumar, the arms are heavily loaded, but in fact this is not entirely true - the main role is played by the work of the legs. There are two main jumaring techniques: using one leg and using both legs.
Jumaring - one leg technique
Climbing a rope on one leg requires the following equipment: two lifting clamps (jumar and Croll, also called “crawl”), a rope “pedal” attached to the jumar, up to 4 carabiners.
What do we have to do:
- stretch the jumar upward along the rope, simultaneously bending the leg - this loads the crawl, fastened to the gazebo and to the rope;
- stand on the “pedal”, straightening your knee, and stretch the crawl upward, lifting it as close to the jumar as possible;
- Pull the jumar up again, loading the crawl and repeating the whole cycle from the beginning.
As you can see from the picture, this rope climbing technique may involve the use of two legs (and two "pedals"), but the principle is the same as for one.
Jumaring – two-legged technique
To climb a rope on two legs, you need the following equipment: two lifting clamps - preferably two jumars, two pedals - each of them is attached to one of the lifts, up to 4 carabiners.
What do we have to do:
- we fasten the jumars on a rope, one above the other, and fasten each of them to the gazebo by means of a mustache;
- We attach one “pedal” for the legs to the first and second jumar;
- we stand on the “pedal” No. 1, loading the jumar No. 1, and stretch the jumar No. 2 upward;
- We stand on the “pedal” No. 2, loading the jumar No. 2, and stretch the jumar No. 1 upward.
The result is practically “walking” in small steps. This jumar lifting technique requires some skill, but is much faster.
And, a mandatory warning in such cases: any method of climbing a rope, no matter how simple it may seem, requires supervision by an instructor for the first time. Under no circumstances try to do this yourself! The mountains do not forgive amateur activities.
Technique for climbing a rope WITHOUT a jumar - on Prussiks
If you initially didn’t plan to go anywhere and didn’t take your zhumar with you, you can do without it, but the process will be slower and more labor-intensive.
What do we have to do:
- using prusiks you need to secure two gripping knots on the rope, placing them one above the other;
- we snap the upper Prusik into the gazebo, and from the lower one we make a “pedal” (for this it must be long enough);
- Having pulled the rope, we raise both prusiks as high as possible;
- insert your foot into the “pedal” and load it, pulling the upper prusik up;
- we load the upper Prusik (hanging on it), and pull the lower one higher with the “pedal”.
The main inconvenience is that the grasping knots, unlike the jumar and crawl knots, do not slide up the rope so easily and you will have to make some effort to pull them through. It is optimal if there is an assistant who remains below and holds the rope taut, otherwise you will have to clamp it with your feet.
As in the previous case, climbing a rope for the first time must take place in the presence and under the supervision of an instructor. Remember that any wrong action can cost not only your health, but also your life.
Zhumar is a device for climbing a rope.
Officially, this piece of hardware is called a “clamp,” but the popular term “zhumar” is adopted, after the name of the first manufacturer.
Its purpose is to move up, not to move down.
For beginners, the clamp is the second most important tool. The first is the head.
Remember:
Do not allow the jumar with which you are attached to the rope to be below waist level. Is it dangerous.
- I do not do that!
- You are well done. But read the article, it contains useful numbers.
If a load weighing 80 kg is tied to a piece of dynamic rope 60 cm long and dropped, it will create a load of 5.7 kN. And if the load is dropped from the same height, but using a Dainima lanyard, then the load will be 16.7 kN.
That is, if the jumar is attached to a rope lanyard, it will probably remain intact, but if it is attached to a Dainima sling, it will break. We recently wrote about loads in an article.
As experiments show, the clamps do not wait for destruction. With a load of 6 kN they tear the braid from the rope. Different clamps do this under different loads. The old Petzl in the video breaks the braid at a load of 6.14 kN, and the Vento clamps at 5.4 kN.
Grasping knots proved to be the “kindest” in relation to the rope. They tear off the braid at a load of 12 kN. There is a good article on gripping knots on Risk.ru - gripping knots on Risk.
Zhumar - climb the rope and open the beer
Zhumar is a device for climbing a rope. Officially, this piece of hardware is called a “clamp,” but the popular term “zhumar” is adopted, after the name of the first manufacturer. Its purpose is to move up, not to move down. For beginners, the clamp is the second most important tool. The first is the head.
Let's consider the strength of the clamps and errors when using them.
Remember:
Do not allow the jumar with which you are attached to the rope to be below waist level. Is it dangerous.
This happens if you climb along the railing and move the clamp “for safety.” This is usually justified with the phrase: “It’s easier for me!”
You can not do it this way!
I do not do that!
- You are well done. But read the article, it contains useful numbers.
The passport for Petzl clamps indicates a maximum load of 4–6.5 kN, for Ropeman from Wild Country - 4 kN, and Vento speaks of a maximum load above 550 kg.
If a load weighing 80 kg is tied to a piece of dynamic rope 60 cm long and dropped, it will create a load of 5.7 kN. And if the load is dropped from the same height, but using a Dainima lanyard, then the load will be 16.7 kN. That is, if the jumar is attached to a rope lanyard, it will probably remain intact, but if it is attached to a Dainima sling, it will break. We recently wrote about loads in the article “Comparison of nylon and Dyneema loops.”
We're exaggerating. Dynamics of a rope (even static), tightening of knots, relief and softness human body will make the load on the clamp less. We don’t have data to what extent, but we don’t want to check on ourselves.
Due to their aggressiveness, conventional clamps are not used in rescue operations.
If you have to climb a diagonal railing, secure the clamp with a carabiner.
Insert it into the hole at the top of the clip:
Or pass the rope through the carabiner on which the jumar hangs:
Manufacturers (in particular Petzl) allow both methods.
When moving, do not push the clamp against a knot in the rope. In this case, you will spend extra time removing it. Due to its structure and main function (to go up and not go down), the zhumar will get stuck in place. To remove, push it forward a little and open the cam.
We will not touch on the technique of moving on a zhumar in this article. Note that there are different ways to climb a rope:
- On one jumar
- On two:
- Hand leg
- Leg-leg
- Chest-leg
- Using gripping knots
- Using a semi-automatic belay device (Gri-Gri and analogues) in combination with a gripping unit/clamp
You can also use the clamp to open beer.
Original taken from mr_aug V
Original taken from survivalpanda in Vertical training for beginners. Educational program. Entry-level theory and practice
In this article I will try, to the best of my understanding, to explain the basics of mountain training as simply as possible for absolute beginners in the topic.
I’ll tell you about the terms and simple techniques of descent and ascent that anyone can master.
Just a few months ago, I had to surf the Internet for quite a long time to collect this information, so I decided to systematize and present it as simply as possible, I think it will be useful.
The article turned out to be long, but you can’t erase the words from the song. It took a long time to write. Directly in parallel with writing, I tested or mastered something new and included it in the article.
I also do not rule out some mistakes that I could well have made.
Warning: it is better to do such things under the supervision of professionals. Otherwise, you can very easily get killed or injured.
So. It all started with a great bang. All mountain training, according to my classification, is divided into two types of organization of rope movement. This is an upward movement i.e. ascent and downward movement i.e. descent.
Now we will slowly begin to examine each piece of equipment and term that may come across on the thorny path of a beginner who wants to get a little familiar with this topic.
The first thing we need is rope.
Without a rope, we won’t climb anywhere and then we won’t get down from there.
There are two types of ropes used in mountaineering: static(statics - slang) and dynamic(dynamics - slang). They are distinguished by dynamic qualities, namely the ability to elongate under load.
The main property of dynamic ropes is the ability to absorb the shock that occurs when a climber falls (we will talk about the fall factor below). Therefore, dynamics are very often used for insurance when climbing. For bottom belay it is generally required.
For simple descent and ascent along a rope, a beginner will only need to purchase a static rope. A bay of 50 m is enough for everything and there will still be some left. A budget option would be to purchase domestic rope (Kolomna, Dzerzhinsk, etc.).
Standard diameters used in mountaineering are 9-11 mm (in industrial alps - 10-12). The more, the stronger and heavier the rope. The more it slows down in the trigger device.
I advise you to stay at the golden mean - 10 mm.
And if we touched the ropes, then we cannot ignore cord(repik, repchik - slang). This is an auxiliary static rope with a diameter of 3-8 mm. It has a bunch of uses, from organizing self-insurance to making laces.
In general, there was no paracord lying around.
I use a 5mm cord, a coil of which is almost always in my backpack.
Looks like we've sorted out the ropes.
From the ropes we smoothly move to the knots.
There are a lot of different knots and you can learn them endlessly. I will focus only on a few that, in my opinion, are most in demand.
Firstly this eight, one might say, is the main unit that can be used in almost any case. A very reliable knot that practically does not weaken the rope.
A figure eight is used for tying both to an individual safety system (ISS) and to a support. For connecting and extending ropes, in general for almost everything.
You need to learn how to knit a figure eight stitch.
Bowline- a very common knot for tying and creating loops. Less reliable than figure eight, but knits faster. A control node is required. Not completely reliable. Better tie a figure eight.
You need to know at least one grasping knot. Then we will use them to insure ourselves.
What a knot UIAA(UIAA), needed for emergency descents and descents with a minimum of equipment.
Note! The free end of the rope should come out from the side opposite to the carabiner coupling.
Have you bought a rope, mastered the knots, can you now climb and descend?
In principle, yes, you can rappel without any equipment, just like in the good old days.
Rappelling - rappelling. Many people think that this is any descent, but this is not so. Dulfer is a technique of descent named after the inventor.
So, it is possible to go down this way, but it is not safe and inconvenient.
For convenience and safety, they have been invented for quite some time. Personal Safety Systems(ISS, system, gazebo, suspended).
They serve to distribute the load on the body when hanging and falling and prevent you from falling.
There are systems full And waist.
I use a belt system. If desired, it can be turned into a full one by purchasing special straps.
For beginners, I would recommend a regular ASC without shoulders.
If needed a budget option, then a domestic company Vento. In any case, you should not take systems consisting only of slings. People affectionately call them “egg slicers.” If you have enough money, then it’s better not to skimp and take something from famous brands Petzl, Black Diamod, etc.
The following photo shows the main elements of the safety system:
Leg loops
Waist circumference
Safety ring (green)
Loops for hanging equipment - they are not load-bearing, and under no circumstances should you belay or hang on them.
WITH safety systems figured it out.
Now we need combine the rope with the iss. There are two ways to do this. With a knot and through a carabiner.
The knot is the same figure eight, and I’ll tell you about the carbines a little lower.
The carabiner clips into the central safety loop. This is a strong recommendation from all manufacturers.
Very often they teach how to fasten into a belt loop and a leg loop at the same time - this is a mistake because... increases the chance that the carbine will skew and it will be loaded in the transverse direction. Only a knot can be attached to both loops at the same time.
If you don’t believe me, then read the instructions for your ISS.
Now let's move on to carbines.
So, what are there carbines.
Firstly, they are either coupled or uncoupled.
Their difference is that the clutch ones are equipped with a special clutch that prevents the carbine from opening spontaneously.
Couplings There are threaded, bayonet and automatic.
Automatic ones are easy to operate with one hand, but their reliability leaves much to be desired. I recommend using carabiners with threaded couplings. And the main thing is to always make sure that the carabiner is locked.
Also, carbines differ in shape and are: oval, trapezoidal, triangular, pear-shaped, etc.
Oval carabiners are the most versatile and inexpensive.
Trapezoidal ones with the same weight have greater strength than oval ones.
Triangular and pear-shaped carabiners have increased rope clearance. They are more convenient to fasten and use the UIAA knot.
Carbines are made from different materials. These are steel, aluminum alloys and titanium.
Steel carabiners are heavy and very durable, aluminum carabiners are much lighter in weight. Titanium ones are quite rare and I have not communicated with them.
Now for strength.
Each carabiner is marked like this. It means that the carabiner from the photograph in a locked state will withstand a load of 22 kN (2.2 tons) in the longitudinal direction. 8 kN if the latch is open and 8 kN in the transverse direction.
You see how important it is to couple the carabiners and make sure that they are positioned as they should.
Note! The carabiner coupling should always be facing you. This way you will see if the carbine has accidentally become loose.
If there is a possibility that the load will be applied from several sides, so-called rapids are used. These are steel carabiners that do not have a folding latch, but only a threaded coupling.
I would advise a beginner to buy 3-4 carbines different shapes with threaded couplings. Manufacturing material - optional.
Let's move on to Descenders(SU, trigger).
The main principle of operation of all control systems is the creation of rope friction in the mechanism. As a result, you can control the descent with very little effort.
There are SUs manual And automatic.
In manual control systems, the speed of descent and braking depends only on the method of threading the rope and on the force with which the person pulls the rope below the control system.
Automatic release devices have a special mechanism. Pull the handle and go down. Let go of the handle and freeze. In this case, the free end of the rope must still be controlled.
In this article I will only talk about hand-held devices because for a beginner who does not plan to engage in industrial alpine automatic devices completely redundant.
And I’ll tell you about two types of triggers - the figure eight and the Shikht washer.
SS eight- This is one of the most classic devices. It looks something like this.
The horn is needed to fix the rope, there are eights and without horns.
The disadvantage is that the figure eight twists the rope. This means that after several descents the rope will be full of “lambs” that will then have to be untangled.
The advantages include several options for threading the rope.
There are two of them. Through the carabiner (the descent speed is higher) and through the neck of the figure eight.
Well, at any moment the horned eight can be blocked by winding a rope around the horn.
One more, more modern version Eights - piranha from Petzl. Has even more ways to clip in and adjust the release speed. More details about this trigger will be in a separate review.
By the way, take a look at this carbine. When it is uncoupled, the red anodizing strip is visible - a great idea, in my opinion.
The second type of manual control system is washer charge. They are: glass, basket, reverso, etc.
Works great with single and double rope. They don't spin it. In general, I recommend starting with just such a trigger.
Threading the rope is carried out as follows. A loop is created and threaded through a slot on the device. The free end of the rope is directed towards the SU jaws.
A carabiner is attached inside the loop.
Note! The cable is a non-loadable part and is used only for transportation.
Let's say the stars align. You have purchased a coil of rope, an ASC, carabiners and a belay device.
Good, still needed helmet. But I’ll leave that up to your conscience.
Although even a banal construction helmet won’t hurt.
I use ballistic helmets, which doesn't always cause a healthy reaction.
Will not be superfluous knee pads. Otherwise, bruises on the knees cannot be avoided.
Good ones are just as important. gloves. When descending quickly, the rope rubs and burns your palm; you may instinctively let go of the rope out of pain, which can be fatal.
Now we take all this and go to an impromptu climbing wall.
Don’t forget to invite a friend with you who will provide insurance. Have you forgotten? Well done!
Our climbing wall will be a small wall from which you can climb down. In the photo, for example, a retaining wall.
For the first training, the lower the better.
Now we put on the harness. Tighten and check all buckles. We ask a friend to check again.
The first step is to secure the rope. In mountaineering, it is customary to fasten either to one absolutely reliable point, or to two less reliable ones. These rope attachment points are called stations.
We will be tied to a living tree. This is a very reliable attachment point.
We tie ourselves to the tree with the same blessed eight, or with a bowline, not forgetting the control knot.
There is another option to buy yourself guy from a 120 cm long sling and use a carabiner to create a station like this.
Using a half-grabbing knot reduces strength by 50 percent, but the "noose" ( semi-grasping knot) allows you to gain a foothold higher.
We'll do it like this.
Well, in general, such sling guy lines are very useful on the farm. You should take a couple.
The station was created. First of all, we secure ourselves to it with a lanyard. If you don’t know what it is, then you can play it safe with a replica, like I do in the photo.
And while we're on the subject, I'll say a few words about lanyard mustache.
These are pieces of sling or dynamic rope, which are attached at one end to the system and at the other to the belay point.
There are industrial production and self-connected.
The purchased ones look like this.
Self-connected like that. The mustache is attached to the system using a figure eight knot.
The first mustache, as a rule, has a standard length of 55 cm. It is mainly used for securing to surrounding objects, such as the station that we made in the previous step.
The zhumar is usually attached to the second mustache. Its length should be such that, hanging on this mustache, you can reach the latch of the zhumar (I’ll tell you what the zhumar looks like, where the latch is and what it actually is a little below).
At the free ends of the lanyards, knots are tied into which carabiners are fastened. I use a half grapevine with three turns. If you don’t know how to do this kind of knot, use a figure eight.
Now let's go back to the beginning of the "cycle". We found support. We created a station on it, clicked on the lanyard. Happened? Well done!
Now, at the end of the rope along which we will go down, we knit a figure eight and snap it into the carabiner that we hung at the station.
At the other end of the rope we also tie a knot and throw the bay into the “abyss”.
This knot ensures that even if the rope does not reach the bottom, you will simply stop and not fall by slipping past the end.
Even if you think the rope has reached the bottom, you still need to make sure. Ask a friend below.
If the rope passes through the edge of the wall and rubs against it, then you should put it on it tread. This is a strip of dense material (teza, a piece of fire hose, etc.) with Velcro. Wraps around the rope and protects against abrasion.
If you don’t put on the protector, then after a couple of times you get this picture. Agree, that’s not the point.
We thread the rope into the descender (I hope you didn’t forget it below). Pull the free end up and take up the slack.
Now, if you pull the free end of the rope, you will not be able to fall.
At this stage, you can snap the lanyard arm out of the station.
By the way, your insurance will be based on the same principle. There should be a belayer standing below, and it is advisable that it is not yours worst enemy, who is already rubbing his sweaty palms in anticipation of your fall.
The belayer must be ready to pull the free end of the rope.
He should not be distracted from belaying by pretty climbers or talking on his cell phone. All his attention should be focused on you.
We place the hand with the rope under the butt, while the rope will be additionally controlled on the thigh.
We go out with our backs to the edge, slowly releasing the rope by slightly relaxing our palms.
While resting your feet, we hang your butt so that your legs are at right angles to the wall. The back is straight and parallel to the wall.
We make the first descent slowly, in steps. We rearrange our legs and slowly release the rope until we touch the ground.
Congratulations, the first descent is completed!
In the future, the descents can be made more difficult as desired.
You can and should move from an insuring comrade to self-insurance(And also, for maximum security, both of these options can be combined).
This is precisely why we learned the grasping knot.
The knot is usually knitted either above the SU or below. What's the difference?
If we knit a grasping knot above the suction knot, then in case of failure we hang on it. The descender becomes unloaded.
To continue the descent, we need to loosen the knot and load the descender again. In order to loosen the knot we need to rise a little. To do this, we will need a clamp (I will talk about them later) or tie a stirrup on a rope.
In general, the task is not very trivial.
A simpler option is to tie a catching knot below the tie knot. The autoblock unit is used in the photo.
In this case, during a breakdown, we remain hanging on the knot, while the trigger remains loaded.
We only need to grab the rope between the control system and the knot, thereby unloading the knot, it will be possible to loosen it and continue the descent.
It seems like a good method, but it also has drawbacks. If the reason for the failure is the destruction of the control system, then we will be turned upside down, which is very unpleasant. Although this probability is quite small, it should not be neglected.
Read more about attaching lanyards below the control system in a very sensible article:
That's it, the descent is mastered. You can not stop there, but continue training, for example, master the elements of assault mountaineering, which basically consists of spectacular descents.
Even if you stop after mastering only the basics, you have already acquired skills that can, in the event of certain circumstances, such as a fire in a stairwell, save your life.
Everything about the descent.
Now is the time to touch climb along the rope, but first I’ll tell you a little about the clamps.
Clamp- a device that moves freely along the rope, but when a load occurs, the device is fixed, clamping the rope, hence the name.
To climb a rope you need two clamps or one clamp + an automatic belay device.
The most common clamp is zhumar. This is a clamp with a handle that is comfortable to hold. The most convenient tool for lifting (this is where the term zhumarit comes from, meaning to rise). It is advisable to have at least one.
Jumars are left and right, for any hand.
The operating principle of the zhumar is quite simple. It is based on pressing the rope with a spring-loaded cam with spikes.
We put the open jumar on a rope and snap it into place. It slides upward freely along the rope, and when loaded it is fixed. It is impossible to remove a loaded jumar.
For greater security, you can click the carabiner like this.
A pedal is attached to the handle of the jumar. Still, the strongest muscles in a person are in the legs.
The pedal should be such a length that when standing in it with a fully straightened leg, the jumar is at chest level.
Let the jumar be our first clamp. The second clamp can also be a jumar, but for the left hand.
Lifting on two zhumars is done like this.
We stand on the left pedal. We push the right jumar along the rope as high as possible, while bending the right leg at the knee. We push with our right foot - “climb the step.” Then we push the left jumar, etc.
It is better to secure both jumars with a self-insurance mustache.
Instead of the second zhumar, you can (and even need) take crawl. This is a clamp that is very similar to a jumar with a sawn-off handle. He hangs himself on his chest. In case of use with a waist-mounted ASC, you must additionally hang a special rope around your neck.
The principle of lifting on a pair of jumar + crawl.
I will further demonstrate this method in a separate video.
We hang out on the crawl. We push the jumar as high as possible, bending the leg with the pedal on the knee. We pull ourselves up on the pedal. The rope itself passes through the crawl. Then we hang on the crawl and push the jumar further.
In this case, you can hold onto the jumar with both hands, and put both legs into the stirrup of the jumar.
Lifting using jumar + crawl is the fastest and easiest to learn.
There is an option to do without jumar altogether.
For example, using the crawl + pantin pattern.
Pantin- this is the same crawl, only attached to the boot. The lifting principle is similar.
But I would advise you to buy at least one zhumar. In addition to climbing, you can also insure yourself on it, although it is not recommended.
The second type of clips that I highlight are safety clips.
You climb, and the belay clip rides next to you on the second rope, or above you if there is only one rope.
They go up freely, and when they fall down they are blocked and prevent you from falling. The most famous representatives: various drops, shants, backups and asaps.
I also want to mention the various mini-clamps. They are capable of performing functions similar to large ones, although they are less reliable and convenient. Their undeniable advantage is their low weight and size.
As a result, one or two of these clips can always be kept on the harness. You can read more about them in the review.
IN general outline everything is on the rise.
Now about the unpleasant, namely about breakdowns. And even more specifically about the jerk factor.
A newcomer entering any forum to discuss any hardware almost immediately sees this term.
Its essence is very simple to understand.
"Jerk factor" is the ratio of the height of the fall to the length of the rope that stops it.
A rather rough indicator by which it is easy to determine whether a given piece of hardware will fall apart when jerked or not.
I strongly recommend avoiding falls with a factor greater than one.
It’s quite simple: if we secure ourselves to something (a quickdraw, a belay device on the second rope, etc.), the belay point should not be below the waist.
That's all. Thank you for your attention!
The main danger in mountaineering is rappelling. However, you have to resort to this very often. Before starting such an operation, you should take into account all the little things, such as the choice of support, the length of the rope, the height, the possibility of subsequent removal of the rope, etc. You need to pay attention to all the little things and reduce the risk as much as possible.
DESCENT EQUIPMENT
Today there are a lot of devices for belaying and rappelling. It makes sense to have a device that performs both functions. Modern belay devices provide excellent rope descent, so in this article we will proceed from the fact that it is very stupid not to have an important detail of our safety.
INDIVIDUAL DESCENT
Below we will consider the best method for most situations, suitable for most situations. No additional equipment other than standard is required.
- The extension cord is equipped with 2 carabiners, one is attached to the loop of your harness, and the second is attached to the rope passed through the safety plate.
- Make sure the free end of your rope is at the bottom of the plate. Tie a French Prusik onto this end, subsequently connecting its loop to the trigger loop using another carabiner below the extension carabiner. (It’s written about nodes
- While moving, use your hand to maintain the prusik in a relaxed state, releasing the knot as you need to stop. For additional control of the descent with the other hand, the free end of the rope can be passed between the legs.
Italian embossed knot with a free carabiner on top of it
DESCENT USING ITALIAN SHAKING KNOT
The method will be useful if you drop the belay plate, or in conditions where the rope freezes and “stiffens” to such a state that it will not be possible to set it into the belay device. You need to use a triangular carabiner, which ensures a smooth descent.
■ When going down a double rope, tie both ends into one large Italian knot and fasten it into a carabiner. Be sure to control the lower end so that it does not hit the carabiner latch and screw off the coupling. Fasten the carabiner to the loop in the opposite direction from your dominant hand (if your hand is right, then fasten the carabiner with the latch to the left) and then the end of the rope will bend around the solid side of the carabiner without touching the latch.
CONSEQUENTIAL Descent
The principle is that the group leader controls the descent of less experienced members from below. The main advantage of this method is that on the route you, as the leader, descend first and set up an intermediate position.
When considering this method, we will assume that there are two inexperienced team members and will omit the details of ensuring safety at stops.
All three descenders are attached to the rope. The first two at the support are for beginners. Strap into your descender and belay device as usual. Attach a loop about a meter long to the other two devices and fasten the beginners to the loops. Then start descending.
The weight of your body will tighten the rope and lock the beginner's descenders. After you have descended and ensured your safety, the first of the newcomers can begin the descent. Belay the person descending without pulling on the rope, so as not to restrict movement and allow the person to control the speed of descent. At the same time, keep an eye on him and be ready at any moment to pull the rope and stop the descent. After the first one has descended, the second beginner can begin in the same way.
EMERGENCY DESCENT
A situation may arise (darkness, worsening weather, the wrong path, poor health, etc.) in which a return from the slope will be required. The procedure is described point by point in a logical sequence. In such a situation, climbers use a single rope.
- The second in the bunch gets to the position with a loop belay at the fastening point with an Italian knot.
- A support point is equipped.
- Climbers are secured to the support using loops passed through the harness with the lark's foot.
- The original safety system is removed.
- One of the climbers unties himself from the rope and passes it through a new fulcrum until the middle mark appears.
- The one who gets untied clamps the rope in the hook, while the second one unties his harness.
- Knots are tied at the ends of the rope, the rope is wound around the hand and thrown down.
- The first person descending attaches the descender and belay devices to the rope, collects excess equipment, unfastens the lanyard loop from the support, hangs it from the back of the harness and begins the descent.
- Having descended to the next position and remaining fastened to the rappel rope, he prepares the next support point.
- Next it is attached to new point supports through the loop on the harness and removes the descending and belay devices from the rope. Now he can help his partner go down. holding the ends of the rope loosely.
- The second descends in the same manner and, upon arrival, is fastened to the fulcrum and removes the descender and belay devices from the rope.
- The knots at the ends of the rope are untied.
- One end of the rope is pulled through the fulcrum, and the rope is pulled down to the middle mark.
- The rope at the level of the mark is clamped by one of the partners at the fulcrum, and the other pulls out the other end.
- Knots are then tied again at the ends of the rope, the ends are dropped to the next position, and the descent is resumed.
SECURITY MEASURES
The safety prusik is tied under and above the descender. It is necessary to take into account the mechanics of the system. If the knot is under the device, it is the latter that bears most of the person's weight, and the knot simply holds the rope at a safe 180° angle, providing maximum braking. If the prusik is placed above the descender, the entire weight of the climber falls on the knot, and the device is unloaded. The problem in this case is that the person is suspended from a 6mm cord, and if there is a jerk, the French Prusik can slip off. If, in order to avoid slipping, you use a prusik klemheist in this situation and it turns out to be loaded, then it will be almost impossible to loosen it again.
Thus, the upper location of the control unit is only possible when using an Italian blending unit. In this case, if the prusik is under the tapping knot, the latter will be held open with the ends of the rope at an angle of 180°, that is, in the position of least friction.
At the fulcrum
In case of organizing an emergency descent, it is advisable to have something with you that can be used to equip a support point. This could be a couple of old loops or pieces of tape. In the worst case scenario, you can use a knife to cut off a small piece from the main rope. There is no need to hang a carabiner on a fixed loop, and this is the only case when it is allowed to thread the main rope directly into the loop, that is, its contact with another element of soft equipment. During descent, the rope will be in a static state. When you pull the rope, it will rub against the loop, generating heat, but it will be the loop that heats up, not the rope.
For this reason, never use rope or tape loops found on slopes. It is possible that they were used for emergency descent and therefore may turn out to be extremely unreliable.
Tying the ends of the rope
The ends of the rope should be tied with one knot or another to avoid blocking the descent. It is best to use cloverleaf knots. As a result, any twists created during the descent process will be eliminated through the ends, rather than collecting in huge knots and weaves, which can easily happen if the ends of the rope are tied.
Tying rope
If two ropes are used to rappel, or the rope has been damaged by a falling rock, you will have to tie the two ends together. You can use a double fisherman's knot. The knot tends to tighten under load, so you can first tie the ropes with a reef knot, and then with a fishing knot. The reef knot will not allow the entire bundle to get confused and overtightened. On the other hand, each of these knots is quite voluminous and can get caught on stones when pulling the rope.
The method we recommend is simpler, although it may look a little scary. Bring the ends of the ropes together and... leaving tails approximately 45 cm long, tie a clover leaf in a knot and tighten. When pulling the rope from below, the knot itself will turn its flat side towards any obstacle and the likelihood of it getting caught will be less. It is clear that the knot should be at the end of the rope by which you will pull it in order to remove it from its fulcrum.
Dropping the rope
This simple action becomes especially important when there is wind or when the rope has to pass through a narrow crevice. Leaving two or three meters of rope free on the side of the fulcrum, do not put it in a coil, but wind it on your hand, placing turns crosswise. Remove the skein from your elbow, grab it in the central part and throw it with force to where you intend to go down. Coiling the rope is better than laying it, since in this case the rope does not get tangled as it unwinds.
Position of the rope at the fulcrum
It would seem a small, but extremely important detail. When pulling the rope, pull at the end coming out from under the loop on the support. In this case, the rope does not press either the loop or the carabiner against the rock, is subject to minimal friction, and you will return it to yourself without much effort.
The most common types of extreme activities, in which the need to climb a rope regularly arises, can be called mountaineering (both sports and industrial) and caving. Obviously, to carry out such a climb, first of all, you need to have at your disposal a rope securely fixed at the top or, as it is also called, a railing. Those who are somehow involved with the use of climbing ropes know very well that climbing it is like a rope, i.e. what is called manually is quite difficult, and to a greater height is not very realistic, since the diameter of such a rope rarely exceeds 10-11 millimeters. Therefore, to perform a comfortable and safe ascent, it is necessary to use additional means. Until not so long ago, these means were all kinds of grasping knots that were tied around the railing rope with loops from the cord. But their ease of use was not great, so over time the nodes were replaced by technical means lifting - clamps.
How does climbing a rope work?
There are a great variety of lifting options themselves, but they all boil down to alternately loading the clamps and moving up the one that is currently not loaded. (I think that from what has been said it is quite clear that there should be two clamps)
In this case, the hands serve only to move the clamps along the rope and maintain balance, and the lifting is carried out due to the strength of the legs, for which loops of sufficient length, the so-called “stirrups,” are attached to one or both clamps. The stirrup can be used for one leg or both at once.
Basic principles:
For ascent, the main (descending) rope is always used and never a safety rope;
When climbing a rope, additional clamps are used; the safety clamp must simultaneously perform its function and cannot be used for climbing;
Prussian grasping knot- this is a short piece of rope (5-6 mm), tied in a ring using a double fisherman's knot.
The diameter is important, 5 mm is the best option - it is important that it is fixed, and not that it is thick.
The Prussian knot can be attached to the main rope with several different knots other than the Prussian, however the name "Prussian" is used for any of them.
Below is a description of the two most commonly used:
The simplest grasping unit does not require a carabiner:
It is usually knitted with a loop, as shown in the figure, but it is useful to be able to knit it with one end when the other is already tied to something.
It is often used to temporarily hold a taut main rope (for example, when pulling it with a pulley for crossing or when passing a knot through a belay device) and for climbing the rope.
Can be quite dangerous if used incorrectly - keep in mind the following limitations:
- The cord used to tie the prusik should be noticeably thinner than the main one. The sling is no good.
- When tugging, the knot can become very tight - and then untying it in a hanging position is a very unpleasant task.
- If the Prusik doesn’t “grab” in the first moment after the jerk, it will never grab. Let’s say, if you use it to secure yourself when descending a rope, tying it above the descender (which I really don’t recommend doing, although this is a very common method), then in order for the Prusik to work and hold you when you fall, you need to release it from your hand instantly - otherwise, having already begun to slip, then when you try to tighten and “grab” it will simply melt right through.
So have a nice descent!
If a regular prusik doesn’t hold well on a slippery rope, you can try making three turns around the main one instead of two:
Advantages:
- lightness
- convenient to attach to the “system”
- can be used for purposes other than climbing up a rope
- simple
- gentle on ropes
Flaws:
- the prusik must be loosened when lifting, thereby lifting with a prusik is a rather slow process
- if the assembly slips under load, there is a chance that the friction of nylon on nylon will fray the prusik and this will be very bad
Special devices:
The devices described below are interchangeable - any of the two devices used simultaneously can be either above the second or below, since either of them is easily RELEASED when tensioned.
Mechanical lifts:
These devices were intended as attempts to improve upon the classic Prusik. Except for the Shunt, all of these devices only work on a single rope.
Specifically designed for single rope climbing, the Wild Country Ropeman is a compact and highly efficient device. It is a block with a built-in kamalot and a carbine.
Advantages:
- easy to use
- reliable to use
- gentle on the braid
Flaws:
- cannot be used with double rope
- not very light
The clever design of this device, with absolutely no moving parts, brings it closer to the Prusik in terms of simplicity.
The only drawback of the device is that the teeth are quite aggressive, and if you do not install the device on the rope correctly, they can slide down, simultaneously damaging the rope and scaring you to death.
However, with enough training, using this device is absolutely not difficult.
Advantages:
- easy
- no moving parts
Flaws:
- slow
- practice is needed to learn how to use the device without damaging the braid
Petzl Handled Ascender (familiar zhumar for everyone)
Petzl
CAMP
The Petzl Ascender is a Rolls-Royce on the rise. Fast, convenient, safe, but heavy and expensive. This is exactly what you need to take with you when you are absolutely sure that you will be climbing. This device has an ergonomically shaped handle, a superbly designed lock/latch that can be operated with one hand. There is a hole on the top of the device where you can install a carabiner to ensure that the device does not slip off. At the bottom of the device there is also a large hole for a carabiner and a smaller one for the “pedal”.
Advantages:
- Absolute ease of use
Flaws:
- big
- heavy
- Expensive
At first glance, the Petzl Croll looks like an incomplete version of the Petzl Ascender - without the handle. I thought so until I had to use a croll this year - while filming a big wall in Sardinia - I instantly realized that a fast climb without a croll was impossible. The Croll is a torso lift that attaches directly to the harness and is held in place by a loop that goes around the neck.
If you use the croll in conjunction with the Petzl Handled Ascender double leg loop, the croll allows you to ascend very quickly indeed, because the technique used in this lift allows you to use both hands on the upper lift and both legs on the leg loop at the same time, it is less exhausting than others methods.
Advantages:
- fast
- less exhausting
- light weight
Flaws:
- inconvenient when negotiating obstacles such as corners, knots, and other equipment on the rope.
This smart multifunctional device can be used for upward transport, lanyarding and lifting.
As a lift, this device, although not as convenient as a lift with a handle, is still very effective.
Advantages:
- the built-in unit makes it very convenient to use the device for lifting loads.
Flaws:
- heavy and bulky
- not as convenient as a lift with a handle
- more steps to prepare for use
The shunt was invented for belaying when descending a rope, but can also be used for ascent.
This device has the great advantage that it can be used with two ropes, and also, if you suddenly need to rappel, you can easily release the shunt and descend more easily than with any other device mentioned here.
The main rule in the Petzl instructions is the correct use of Shunt.
Advantages:
- possibility to use 2 ropes
- gentle on ropes
Flaws:
- heavy and bulky
Self-anchoring belay devices and their use.
The devices discussed below can be used as part of a lifting system. Since they lock when the rope to which they are attached is loaded, they can only be used from below one of the devices described above. The advantage of using self-anchoring devices is that you will need to take one less device with you, also if you are using a Gris-Gris or SRC type device, you can get down quickly if you need it.
(and similar devices)
Gri-Gri is a fairly popular device for skeet routes; it is usually used in conjunction with a lift with a handle. Gri-Gri provides additional anchorage and the ability to quickly and safely descend if needed.
Although Gris-Gris can be used to attach a "pedal", most effective way use is to attach the Gri-Gris directly to the gazebo in the same way as if you were attaching a belay to it.
A lift with a handle, into which the “pedal” is threaded, is placed above the Gri-Gri.
Advantages:
Easy rappelling
- auto-lock
Flaws:
Heavy
- not the best quick method rise
- a rather exhausting method of lifting
- the ropes must pass freely through the Gri-Gris - forget about using very thick ropes.
Magic Plates (Magic plates)
Petzl Reverso, Reversino and other "magic plate" belay devices can be used on the bottom of the rope when climbing.
Two carabiners are required for use, but the device works well enough without requiring the use of any other devices, however the lifting will not be as easy as using specialized lifting devices, however it will be useful to learn how to use this device as a lift.
Advantages:
Dual-purpose device, useful in case of unforeseen circumstances and the absence of a specialized lift
Flaws:
Additional carabiners required
- very difficult to use
Trigger "Reflex"— reliable self-insurance when descending
I'm excited to introduce you to a new use of the "grasp reaction" to provide 100% reliable lashing when abseiling - this Self-Belay Trigger "Reflex"
After six months of field testing, I was able to create a device that can easily be equipped with Petzl's Ascension.
Unlike the original design, the “Trigger-Reflex” is foldable and can be attached to the poignette lock during lifting.
In fact, they can be equipped with any eccentric clamp, if it is fundamentally suitable for a clear grip on any normal rope (not icy)
Official presentation of the Self-Belaying Trigger “Reflex” based on the company’s “Ascension” 
"Petzl",
which can be downloaded from the website at:http://www.soumgan.com/srt/descriptions/Trigger-Reflex.htm
So today, for anyone who wants a 100% reliable cam clamp for rappelling, I can offer this solution. This is the “Trigger Reflex” for the Petzl company, which uses the panic reflex to trigger without fail and stop the fall in the event of a fall.
It is noteworthy that it appeared 25 years after the use of the panic reflex in the design of a self-belaying clamp, which I called the “Universal self-belaying clamp “Reflex”, the first copy of which was created by Shyngys Duysekin, the Sumgan speleologists club, in 1982.
Then for the first time we turned the panicked grasping reflex to the benefit of self-belaying purposes, and were successful, although the world community passed by our breakthrough in deathly silence, continuing to pay victims for refusing self-belaying during descent or using unsuitable devices for this.
“Trigger-Reflex” has already received the approval of those who have become acquainted with it in practice.
TECHNIQUE
One leg method:
This is the simplest technique and very easy to understand. It doesn't matter whether you use Prussian or handle lifts or 
anything else - the principle remains the same. It is necessary to have two points of attachment to the rope. If one of the points is a "magic plate", make sure that its mounting point is lower than the other device, otherwise
- you will move up VERY slowly.
The top device should be attached to the safety loop on your gazebo, the bottom one to the “pedal”. It also makes sense to attach the bottom device to the safety loop on your gazebo for added safety.
The lifting is done by loading the “pedal”, moving the upper device up the rope, loading the upper point, and then moving the device to which the “pedal” is attached. Repeat this sequence until the desired point is reached.
Required equipment:
Two lifts
- "pedal"
- up to 4 carbines
Two Leg Method:
Using a pair of lifts, you can rise faster by attaching a “pedal” to each of them, 
simultaneously securing each device to your gazebo. In fact, you will have to “walk” the rope in small steps.
Required equipment:
2 lifts
- 2 loops of sufficient length
- 2 “pedals”
- 2 carabiners (depending on the mounting method, you may need 2 more)
Lift or roll method:
Considered one of the most quick ways rise.
The crroll is attached directly to the safety loop of your gazebo and is secured with a loop around the neck or gazebo if you have one with a chest part.
A lift with a handle is placed above the roll and a “pedal” is attached to it, and it is also attached to your neck or gazebo. Grasp the lift with both hands and apply pressure to the pedal.
The loop on your chest harness will tighten and pull the crroll up the rope (if this does not happen, shorten the loop that secures the crroll). This movement technique is less strenuous than using two lifts, making it more suitable for long climbs, often in caving.
Required equipment:
Kroll
- neck loop
- lift
- a “pedal” that can accommodate both feet
- lanyard, loop or other device of sufficient length
- two carbines
Method using a lift and Gris-Gris:
The scheme is similar to the one with a roll, the only difference being that instead of a roll, a Gri-Gri or other similar self-locking device is used.
However, with this method, the rope itself will not pass through the Gris-Gris, so it will need to be pulled in by hand.
Required equipment:
Lift
- "pedal"
- Gris-Gris
- a loop
- 2 or 3 carabiners
Warning: It is impossible to cover every safety detail in an article, so it is assumed that the reader has sufficient basic knowledge of the use of equipment, not to mention common sense.
The best option would be to use the help of an instructor when learning how to climb and descend.
http://alp.org.ua/?p=8838 — link
You need to start talking about gripping the rope with your feet from the very beginning of the rope climbing technique with the system "Grandfather"
Lifting efficiency depends on:
1) Correct selection and regulation of equipment.
2) Correct movements.
The equipment itself for lifting using the “Dead” method consists of:
1) Gazebos with a low and rigid suspension point.
2) Chest harness for pulling the “croll” up (whatever is convenient for you).
3) Pairs of clamps: chest + leading
Usually it is a “croll” + “poigne” (“basic” with an additional carbine in the French fashion). It is also possible to use “basic” instead of “croll”.
4) Paired whiskers, the long one of which serves as a safety net to the leading clamp.
5) Pedals with stirrups for two feet (some people find it convenient to have separate stirrups for each foot, but I don’t find this comfortable).
It is very important to adjust the pedal correctly. Its regulation is based on compliance three basic principles.
1) The length of the pedal should be such that, standing in it with one foot and forcefully pulling the clamp up, the distance between the bracket of its body and the bracket of the “croll” body is ensured - 3-5 cm.
Let's pay attention! One foot!
It follows from this that if you place both feet in the stirrup and stand as we are accustomed to doing on the ground (feet side by side and parallel to the surface of the earth), then the length of the pedal will noticeably shorten and become small. That is, we will not be able to stand on fully straightened legs! And this sharply reduces the effectiveness of lifting, causes fatigue and generally melancholy. The second element follows from this.
2) When placing two feet in the stirrup, they are positioned with the outer welts down and one steps lightly on the other. In this case, practically the same volume of stirrup is used as when working with one leg standing flat. That is, the pedal is long enough for both legs to be fully straightened!
(see photo below)
Let's pay attention! When resting on the stirrup, the pedals of the feet lightly step on one another! This is what makes it possible to clearly grab rappels with your feet.
3) The size of the stirrup must be sufficient for both feet to freely rest on it, freely put the feet in and out, and freely move them apart by 5 centimeters - enough to pass the rope...
Without further ado, the guideline is this: the length of the stirrup with one foot inserted into it should reach the knee. A little lower, but not higher, because otherwise the knee tends to slip into the stirrup, and this is unpleasant.
Grasping the rope with your feet while climbing
It is worth talking in more detail about the technique of using your legs to grab the rope under the “crawl” without using your hands. It seems that everything is obvious, but no - even small nuances of movements play a role.
Today, the craze for “Petzl Pantin” may give the impression that there is no need to be able to pull the rappel out of the “croll” with your feet, but this is not so.
Long before the advent of “Pantin”, cavers (including us) had already attached a variety of clamps to the foot, of which “Basic” still remains relevant for this purpose, since it is a full-fledged clamp for any operations, and not an extremely specialized one , like "Pantin".
In the end it turned out that The clip on the foot is really convenient: on long flights, but there the rope after a few meters itself comes out of the “croll” under its own weight and with proper lifting technique.
But there are also disadvantages
At each PZ, the need to unfasten and fasten an additional piece of hardware is also not pleasant, and then tear the rappel out of it for a couple more meters until it moves on its own (despite the weak spring of the “Pantina”, it’s a similar story).
In addition, there are a lot of small plumbs where it’s easy to fasten the “leg” with a crowbar.
In addition, there are a lot of inclined climbs, where the clamp on the leg just gets in the way - it throws us belly-first onto the rock.
It’s not very convenient to hobble around the cave with a clamp on your leg between the plumb lines... So, take it off and then put it on?
Well, and something else.
I’m not saying all this to discredit Pantin - no! A wonderful piece of hardware when it's in place.
I’m just emphasizing the importance of perfect mastery of the footwork technique for pulling the rappel out of the “croll” when lifting.
Lifting with emphasis on the pedal and gripping the rope with both feet
This technique is useful in the following cases
1) When moving in a pure plumb line and along steep walls. Even if the rope itself falls through the “croll”, the emphasis on the rope helps you stay vertical, so you don’t get so tired.
2) When lifting with a load
3) When you are tired.
Initial position:
1) Both clamps are on the rope, we sit on the “crawl”.
2) The cross-shoulder belt is tightened as far as possible to eliminate the “croll” play.
3) Both feet are inserted into the pedal stirrups, and the rope from under the “croll” is placed between the feet from the outside, on the toe side.
The lifting cycle is as follows:
1) We lift the leading clamp with our hands, at the same time as if turning over on our backs and thereby raising our legs.
In this moment keep your socks pointed out by 5-10 cm so that the rope can freely pass down between them. If the rope still gets caught, bent, it is easy to straighten it by hand.
(technique demonstrated by Alina Gauzshtein, Sumgan club, 1988)
This lifting of the legs by inversion is rarely understood immediately - people begin to pull their hips up, tensing their abs and arms. In fact, everything is done without the slightest effort - swing back and your legs are up!
2) Now we close the toes of the feet, directing them with their outer welts downwards - emphasis in the stirrup, and with our toes grabbing and pressing the rope - as if stepping foot on foot
3) Gradually transferring the weight to the feet closed in the stirrups and squeezing the rope, we pull our legs under us for subsequent standing.
Don't go ahead! - Alinka shows, - At least the rock was nearby. Namely, for yourself.
4) Then we stand up, pushing our feet into the stirrup downwards, under ourselves, as if we were getting up from a chair without the help of our hands (try it!).
The hands hold the rope and the leading clamp higher and pull us up. In this moment of getting up, the whole body takes part, and not just the legs, or even worse, the arms!
Don't act like Alina in the right photo - it's difficult. The hands should be placed a little higher - not by the handle of the poigne, but by its body. The handle is comfortable on slopes, not on plumbs.
Attention! If you place your feet parallel and spread them entirely, and not just your toes, then the rope will most likely rest on the stirrup between your legs, and as soon as it can, it will throw the stirrup towards your heels! (this is in addition to the fact that the pedal length will not be enough to fully straighten your knees).
Lifting with an emphasis on the pedal and holding the rope with one foot
Very it is often difficult to work with both legs due to the nature of the climb itself or it simply is not necessary. For example:
1) When moving along inclined walls, and the steeper the slope, the more problematic it is to use both feet in the pedal.
2) On cascades of small ledges, where it takes longer to push your legs into the stirrups and pull them out than to get out with one leg.
3) When moving lightly, with a small load, in the absence of fatigue.
In addition, working with one leg is often more convenient due to coordination of movements and more stable balance - the second leg pushes off the wall. With one foot you rise a little higher on the pedals - it’s paradoxical, but somehow it works out that way. Maybe due to fine-tuning the foot and better coordination?
Lifting with one leg is easier than with two, and is easy to master.
But to successfully pull a rope with one leg, there is one small subtlety in the movement of the leg.
1) We insert the supporting leg into the stirrup, leaving the rope outside on the right, so that it rests on the instep of the leg inserted into the stirrup. Help with your hand (often in the first step there is no way without this)
2) We lift the leading clamp with our hands, while simultaneously raising the supporting leg in the stirrup. But we don’t just lift!
The leg should make a sort of ballet feint: the knee goes to the side, and the foot under itself - at the same time, we provide the best straightness to the rope from under the “croll”, and it falls down most easily even under its minimum weight
Under no circumstances should you lift your leg just straight up.— the rope will definitely get stuck at the stirrup and give a bend that you will have to pull with your hands
3) After the clamp with the pedal and leg are raised, before standing up, you need to make the opposite movement - return the knee inward, placing the leg straight. In this case, the rope will definitely be pressed between the shin and the pedal!
4) Stand on the supporting leg, helping with your hands, which are held higher - by the body of the clamp and the rope above it.
5) And right there without a pause sit down gently on the crawl. There’s no need to plop down on the “crawl” like you would on a sofa at home—we’re on a rope!
This "feint" - knee to the side - inward - stood up, and makes it possible to drag the rope from the “crawl” with one foot without any problems.
http://www.soumgan.com/ - link
Then everything works out as if by itself - the body already automatically makes the necessary movements. And at first, in the process of learning a technique, sometimes one misunderstood or misunderstood point can completely ruin the pleasure and impression of the technique.
After all, a good descent is a safe descent!
