Installation of an insulated roof made of metal tiles. How to make a cold roof from metal tiles - installation instructions. Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

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If you start to delve into the essence of the issue, it turns out that the technology for installing metal tiles is not particularly complex. But before going to the roof, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of handling this roofing material. Ignorance of some little things can ultimately lead to irreparable results.

What is metal tile?

Before starting work, you must become thoroughly familiar with the material itself. What is the notorious metal tile? The basis of this material is a sheet of high-quality steel, the thickness of which varies depending on the brand of tile and is 0.4-0.8 mm. Profiled roofing steel (curved using a certain technology) is coated with a “passivating” composition of aluminum and zinc compounds. This composition is designed to protect the metal from corrosion. For greater reliability, the passivation layer is covered with a protective coating, and then with a layer of polymer material.

Depending on the polymer used, several tile coatings can be distinguished:

polyester (glossy and matte);
plastisol;
pural.

Composite metal tiles can be classified as a separate category. It is a tile made of steel sheet, the passivation layer of which is covered with natural stone chips. Basalt crumbs are most often used for these purposes. Unlike classic polymer-coated metal tiles, composite tiles are smaller in size and closely resemble ceramic tiles in their shape. That is why the classic technology of roofing with metal tiles differs significantly from laying composite metal tiles.

In order to protect the fragile polymer from mechanical damage, as well as from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, it is coated with one or more layers of varnish. In addition, the varnish significantly increases the water-repellent properties of the tiles.

Calculation of metal tiles

One of the important points that technology includes is that, unlike slate and others roofing materials, the tiles have pronounced lower and upper edges. This means that the metal tile sheet must be oriented clearly in a certain direction.

Therefore, when buying roofing material, it is important to do this in advance, since in the future, if there is a shortage of material, it will be impossible to compose it from fragments, arranging them in any order. In addition, it is important to understand that metal tiles should be cut as little as possible. For rectangular slopes, in almost all cases you can select the required amount of material that will completely cover the slope. By combining sheets of tiles of three, six and twelve waves, you can organize the roof without cutting the tiles to width at all. If the sheets of tiles protrude beyond the slope along the length, then this is acceptable. In this case, a larger overhang allows you to more reliably protect the house from precipitation.

In order to facilitate the calculation of the amount of material required, it is better to calculate its dimensions not in millimeters, but in waves. In addition, serious tile manufacturers allow their customers to calculate the amount of metal tiles using online calculators. This greatly simplifies the procedure for selecting and purchasing material.

Cutting metal tiles

As mentioned above, the technology for constructing a metal roof should exclude cutting of material. This can easily be explained by the fact that when cutting, the polymer layer of the metal tile loses its integrity and, as a result, less protected areas appear. At such points, the likelihood of corrosion increases significantly (required reading: " ").

But there are still exceptions when cutting a sheet of metal tile is simply necessary. For example, when laying a hip or hip roof.

If there is a need to trim tiles, you must use the following tool:

metal scissors (manual or electric);
fine-toothed hacksaw for metal;
jigsaw The blade should be designed for cutting thin metal;
disk plate with carbide teeth.

It is strictly forbidden to use corner tiles for cutting grinding machine(Bulgarian). Under the influence of high temperatures that arise upon contact with the abrasive wheel, the polymer layer and the passivation layer simply burn out. In those places where the angle grinder has passed, corrosion processes begin to develop quite quickly. Because of this, metal tiles become unusable long before the end of the warranty period.

When cutting shingles, sawdust will be generated to varying degrees. They must be swept away very carefully with a soft brush. Care is necessary due to the fact that the protective layer is very sensitive to scratches. In addition, if the chips are not removed in time, they will begin to rust under the influence of moisture, which will negatively affect the appearance metal tiles. Due to the high sensitivity to scratches, installation of metal tiles should be carried out only in shoes with soft soles.

The preparatory stage includes:

arrangement of insulation ( roofing pie);
installation of sheathing.

The waterproofing layer is designed to ensure the impermeability of the roof. Therefore, the quality of installation of the waterproofing film directly affects the quality of protection of the house from the most severe and prolonged rains.

Waterproofing is laid as follows:

Depending on the slope of the slope, the direction is determined. If the roof slope has a slope of more than 1 to 5, then the waterproofing is laid parallel to the ridge. If the roof slope is less flat, then waterproofing is laid from the eaves to the ridge.
The angle of the slope also affects the amount of overlap of the canvases on each other. So, with a slope of 15-30 degrees, individual strips of waterproofing are laid on top of each other with an overlap of 25 cm; with a slope of more than 30 degrees, the overlap is 15-20 cm. If work is carried out on a hip roof, then the overlap on the ridges should be increased by 5 cm .

There are two ways to install waterproofing:

According to the first, the waterproofing is laid in such a way that the material does not come into contact with the insulation. In this case, due to the resulting gap, a ventilation space is formed. Such a gap is obtained by filling the rafters with a sheathing of beams with a cross-section of 5 cm. Thanks to this intermediate lathing, it is possible to lay a layer of waterproofing with a sag of 1-2 cm. But this method of installation has a significant drawback - roof ventilation significantly increases heat loss.
The second method allows you to avoid unnecessary heat losses, since membrane films and are used here. Membranes allow you to reliably protect the under-roof space from moisture that accidentally gets under the tiles and from condensation that forms. At the same time, such a film does not retain steam and moisture that rise from the insulation. Thanks to this, the roofing cake “breathes”.

In both cases, sufficient ventilation space (20-30 mm) is left between the waterproofing and the metal tiles. This avoids unwanted condensation on the inner surface of the tiles and the formation of mold on the wooden sheathing strips.

if the pitch of the rafters is 90-120 cm, then the sheathing is created from slats with a cross-section of 32 * 100 mm;
instead of wooden slats, it is allowed to use a metal profile with a similar or greater bearing capacity;
the sheathing is fixed to the counter-battens or rafters using self-tapping screws or nails;
the bottom lath of the sheathing is always 10-15 mm thicker than the rest.

It is recommended to begin installation of the sheathing from the place where it will begin. This greatly facilitates the joining of tile sheets when arranging a roof with a complex configuration. When installing the sheathing, it is important to remember that repairs to this part of the roof, if the metal tiles are intact, can be carried out quite quickly. This helps to significantly extend the service life of the roof.

Installation of metal tiles

To fix the tiles, special roofing screws made of galvanized steel are used. They differ from ordinary self-tapping screws by the presence of a sealing washer and a drill at the end. For installation, you can use a screwdriver or electric drill. This greatly simplifies the process of securing sheets. But here it is important that the device has the ability to reduce the speed or torque. The point is that you should not over-tighten the screw, as this will lead to destruction of the rubberized seal.

The use of such self-tapping screws in the future makes it quite easy to dismantle tiles and repair the roof. When carrying out such a procedure, the removed sheets are marked and, after repairs, returned to their place.

Installation of metal tile sheets is carried out according to the following algorithm:

Before laying the tiles, a cornice strip is installed on the lower end of the roof, which should protect the front board and sheathing from the negative effects of precipitation. The plank is fixed directly to the sheathing using nails or self-tapping screws with a countersunk head. A sealant is installed between the tile sheets and the eaves strip.
Installation of tiles on a gable roof begins from the end; on a hip roof, tiles are installed from the eaves. The tiles are aligned along the eaves, not the end.
Sheets are laid both from left to right and vice versa. When laying on the left side, each subsequent sheet is placed under the previous one, when laying on the right - on top of the previous one (read also: " ").
The optimal overlap along the slope is considered to be an overlap of 25 cm. But some types of tiles are produced strictly according to the parameters of the slope, so when working with such tiles, overlap is not needed.
The tiles are attached to the sheathing at the bottom of the profile wave. Fastening is carried out through a longitudinal wave into every 2nd transverse wave of the sheet.
The capillary groove must be overlapped with the next sheet. The overlap itself is fixed with a self-tapping screw. At the same time, it does not need to be additionally treated with waterproofing compounds.

The installation of tiles is completed with the installation of valleys, end and ridge strips (read: ""). When arranging the ridge, ventilation strips can be installed. They are a ridge strip with holes for ventilation. They are usually installed in increments of 5-6 meters.

Installation of metal tiles, detailed in the video:

Thus, a roof made of metal tiles can be organized quite simply - the installation technology of which is not so complicated. In addition, to erect such a roof you do not need to have special knowledge in the field of construction and architecture. The only condition for a quality result is the preparation of the necessary materials and tools. Also, covering a roof with a complex shape with metal tiles may require some practice.

For arranging the roofing part in Lately Metal tiles are increasingly being used. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If you wish, you can install the metal tiles yourself. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

Work on laying roofing fragments

The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special polymer-based coating. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

List of advantages

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

aesthetic appeal;
weather resistance;
affordable price;
lightness of the main elements.

Note! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their colors can vary over a fairly wide range.

Few disadvantages

Since the sheets have a small thickness with sufficient large sizes, the risk of damaging them during careless installation still exists. If all the rules are followed, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect in heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this disadvantage is completely eliminated.

Related article:

Tools for installation work

It is necessary to prepare in advance a set of tools and additional devices for the work:

Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, since high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

IN step by step instructions for the installation of metal tiles, the main elements used in conjunction with the sheets should be mentioned. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

We suggest taking a look at the list of basic parts:

a ridge is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
the end strip is necessary to decorate the edges on the side of the gable overhangs;
the valley is installed in the places where the slopes combine;
the cornice strip is attached to the side of the gutters;
the junction strip is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
A snow retention element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Instructions for installing metal tiles: step-by-step work

Loading and unloading of products can be done manually, but during the work a certain number of people must be involved. Usually 1 person is required per 1.5-2 linear meters of sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation is laid between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is attached with brackets to the load-bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across the rafters with an overlap of at least 15 cm along all slopes.

50x50 mm bars are nailed directly onto the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixation, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Correct installation of sheathing under metal tiles

An edged board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide is usually used as lathing, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to 50x50 mm bars using nails no less than 70 mm long. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

In the place where the ridge element is installed, it is recommended to install two planks close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tiles. The same should be done at the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the sheathing should be higher than the others by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, metal tile eaves strips are installed. A ventilation tape must additionally be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. When joining horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Lining a brick chimney involves extending the waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A groove is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is discharged into the valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with an extension of 50 mm beyond the sheathing. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be adhered to:

the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the sheathing;
fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
Along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing the end joints are mounted in the direction from the eaves overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed to the upper crest of every second wave. When building up elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. Self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements to hold snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of heavy snow scraping, two rows of metal profiles can be installed. Pass-through type snow guards are the optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the sheathing itself through. The distance between fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.

To install a high-quality roof made of metal tiles, it is necessary to carefully study the technology of work, be able to handle metalworking tools and prepare all the necessary materials. The following describes in detail the instructions for the entire technological process.. You can install a metal tile roof with your own hands (although you will still need several assistants to transport and deliver metal sheets to the installation site).

Main characteristics of the material

A metal tile roof is a structure made of steel sheets with a thickness of 0.35 to 0.7 mm (the thicker the sheet, the stiffer and more stable the roof), galvanized on both sides and coated on the outside with a polymer composition (plastisol or polyester). Metal tile sheets usually have a width of 1 m and a length of 1 to 7-8 meters.

Roof covering

Among the advantages of metal tile roofing are::

low weight (no more than 6 kg per square meter) due to the maximum possible thinning of the steel sheet: from 0.4 mm to 0.7 mm;
resistance to temperature changes;
ease of replacement of deformed sheets of material;
resistance to corrosion;
long service life (up to 50 years) and reliability;
relatively low cost of material;
huge selection of coating colors (at least 25 different colors and shades).

When choosing a suitable metal tile, it is recommended to pay attention to a material with a thickness of 0.5-0.6 mm, because a sheet with less weight is more likely to deform in the area of the nodes, so you will have to make a replacement. The thickness of metal tile sheets is a very important characteristic, because with increasing strength, the strength indicators of the entire roofing pie also increase. At the same time, the thicker the roofing covering (maximum 1 mm), the more weight the roof has to support, so the rafters will have to be strengthened.

Basic installation rules

The construction of a metal tile roof must be carried out in accordance with established rules, the main ones of which are listed below.

The minimum angle of inclination of a conventional metal tile roof is 14 degrees. If a gable roof structure is assumed, then the laying of sheets begins from the lower left corner of the slope, with each subsequent sheet placed on top of the previous one, taking into account the overlap in one wave. If the angle of inclination is less than 14 degrees (which is not entirely correct), then the overlap should be done in two waves.

Roof structure installation

In the case of a hip roof, you need to start the arrangement from the highest part of the structure, and then go down in opposite directions.

The bottom edges of the latest metal tile sheets should protrude above the level of the eaves by at least 3-5 centimeters. In addition, the steel sheets must be hemmed with boards at the bottom and along the edges.

Installation of metal tile roofing is carried out using self-tapping screws with rubberized gaskets, screwed into the waves of sheets along the lower edge in increments of 7-9 pcs/m2.

The ridge must be covered with compacted additional elements. It is correct to use semi-cylindrical parts at the upper ends of the profiles, because due to their shape they are more securely and firmly held on the ridge.

In order to make a roof valley, you will need: firstly, an intermediate structure, and secondly, a gutter element attached to the sheathing using this structure.

Installation of the internal corner of the roof

When installing additional roofing elements, gaps always form that must be sealed. The correct way to do this is with silicone sealant, as well as sealing tapes.

From the inside, in the under-roof space, the metal covering remains very cold, in addition, developers often note the accumulation of condensation. Therefore, in order not to spend money later on replacing damaged material, it is important to correctly assemble the metal tile roof pie, including in advance layers of material that provides high-quality vapor barrier and ventilation.

Required Tools

In order to cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, prepare the following tools:

Fastening the sheet with self-tapping screws

Drill-driver (it is necessary to have an attachment for a self-tapping screw with a hexagonal head);
A tool for cutting metal tile sheets (for example, a low-speed circular saw with carbide teeth, an electric jigsaw, a hacksaw for metal, or a special drill attachment designed for cutting metal);
Measuring rod and tape measure;
Tracing cord;
A hammer (in addition to the standard one, you will also need a rubber one, which is used if it is necessary to correct a section of the structure without damaging the protective coating of the metal tile sheet);
Gun with silicone sealant;
Marker.

Under no circumstances should you use a grinder with an abrasive wheel to cut metal sheets, as it will irrevocably burn the cut site and all nearby coating.

No protective film or paint that smooths out defects in metal tiles will save you from the corrosion that appears in the areas cut with a grinder. In this case, replacement of the coating cannot be avoided.

Features and composition of the roofing pie for a warm roof

The key point when constructing a roof made of metal tiles is a properly equipped insulation pie. Any element of the composition of this pie plays a very important role, so if you ignore its installation, you cannot count on the most comfortable operating conditions for the future roof. Therefore, we will analyze each stage step by step. Please note that the layers of the roofing cake have a clear laying sequence, which absolutely cannot be changed.

Layer order

So, the composition of the cake for a warm roof includes:

Longitudinal shoulder straps and rafters(this is the roof frame, roofing structure);
Vapor barrier, releasing steam from the house, but not allowing it from the street. The vapor barrier film is attached with inside sheathing;
Thermal insulation material(for example, mineral wool), laid between the joists of the roofing structure (it is necessary to leave space for ventilation between the layers of the cake, because at high humidity the material loses its heat-insulating properties);
Counter-lattice- a layer of cake, the function of which is to fasten the roofing sheathing. It is attached parallel to the rafters, pressing a layer of waterproofing material;
Lathing– (bars with a section of 50x50, attached along the slope in increments of 30-35 cm);
Waterproofing membrane– needed to prevent the penetration of condensate settling inside the roof. The waterproofing is laid in such a way that there is a free space of 4-5 cm between it and the insulation, as well as between it and the coating.
Metal tiles– spreads directly onto the sheathing.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Features of the roofing pie under a cold roof

The design of a roofing pie for a cold roof is much simpler than for a warm one. In fact, the pie includes only the sheathing, sheets of metal tiles and waterproofing.

Roof installation without insulation

First of all, the film must be secured using a construction stapler or small nails. After this, a counter-lattice is placed on top of it, and the screws securing it simultaneously press the waterproofing film.

As in a pie for a warm roof, the waterproofing is attached with some indentation from both the sheathing and the covering material (about 2-3 cm). The indentation is made so that condensate accumulating under the roof flows freely into the gutter. If you do not make an indentation between the waterproofing, but attach it with a tight fit, then the moisture will quickly provoke corrosion of the roof. On top of the waterproofing and counter-lattice, a lathing similar to that used for a warm roof is laid. Installation of a vapor barrier is not required in this case.

The technology of installing metal roofing without insulation in residential buildings is rarely used due to the lack of sound insulation, as in a warm roof.

Roof ridge installation

Before laying the ridge strip, you should ensure reliable ventilation of the space under the roof. If it is decided to make point ventilation vents for this purpose, then they must be sealed around the edges to avoid deformation.

Ridge installation

If the ridge is flat, then its strips are mounted with an overlap, and if it has a semicircular shape, then the fixation is made along the lines of the metal-plastic profile.

Ridge roof units with triangular and trapezoidal slopes are arranged by adjusting the ridge strip to the ridge slope, straightening or bending as necessary.

Valley nodes

In order to properly arrange the roof components made of metal tiles, you need an intermediate structure and a valley element attached to this structure. In addition, the valley needs to be strengthened by strengthening the sheathing with additional floor boards secured between the main beams.

Installation of the valley

The installation of the valley planks is carried out with an overlap of 0.2-0.4 m, moving from the eaves to the ridge. It is necessary to make a side on the bottom bar at the level of the cornice. A seal must be made directly under the ridge and under the last valley strip.

Metal tiles bordering the valley should be correctly cut at a distance of 7-10 cm from the axis on one side and the other.

The valley is attached with self-tapping screws, and if the sheets are cut, then they and the valley must be secured at the points of contact between the metal tile floor and the plane in which the valley strips are fixed:

on the bar, approximately 30 cm away from the axis;
on the profile, at the very bottom of the wave, 1.5 centimeters below the stamping.

Sometimes the cut points of roofing sheets are additionally decorated with special overlays, laid from bottom to top with an overlap of at least 10 cm. In addition to their decorative function, these overlays also reduce the risk of snow blowing under the oblique cuts of the metal tile floor. In addition, thanks to the linings, it is easier for water to roll into the valley.

Pipe bypass technology

The roof structure includes not only smooth slopes, but also other elements: chimneys, ventilation pipes and channels. Because of this, the procedure for covering the roof becomes more complicated, so here you need to follow other instructions:

first, waterproofing is laid on the sides of the object being installed;
after this, you need to install a groove on the surface of the slope that will drain the water. It should stand no further than 0.8 m from the high wall of the pipe;
then, according to the instructions, an additional sheathing is placed slightly above the passage;
steel roofing sheets are cut on both sides of the pipe.

Brick chimney bypass

The design will be reliable only if the following installation rules are observed:

when fixing the apron with self-tapping screws, it is correct to use a sealant;
the nearest peak of the steel sheet wave should be covered with an apron;
First, the internal, and only then the external, upper apron is attached, which should cover the metal profile by 10 cm.

If the apron is installed directly in the cut, then water and melted snow will inevitably flow into it, which leaves you with no hope of a warm, functional roof.

The roof structure covered with metal tiles is strong and durable, and provided that you follow all the rules for laying both the metal tile sheets themselves and the entire roofing pie, your roof will also have excellent performance characteristics.

In many ways it is superior to other types of roofing, such as slate, galvanized sheet, bitumen shingles, etc. Laying the material is usually trusted to specialists, but if you wish, you can install the metal tiles yourself.

Advantages of the material

TO strengths metal tiles include:

The only disadvantages include increased noise during precipitation, but this can be solved by installing a layer of glass wool.

Covering the roof with metal tiles begins with calculations.

Stage 1. Carrying out calculations

Let's make one thing clear first important point. Visually, a roof covered with this material consists of rows and waves (the first run across the slope). The distance between the rows is called the pitch. If a sheet of tile has a pitch of 35 cm and six waves, then it is called a module. The modern building materials market offers sheets for 1, 3, 6 and 10 modules.

Important! If you wish, you can order tiles according to individual sizes, but this will cost much more. It should be remembered that the length of the sheet should not exceed 7 m and be less than 45 cm.

When calculating and laying out, the fact that joints and waves should form a solid coating along the entire length of the slope is taken into account. Having decided on the number of modules, the amount of material is calculated based on the roof area.

In addition to the metal tile itself, the kit also includes:

steel strips 2 m long;
steel sheets 200x125 cm, having the same color as the tiles.

Typically, the strips are intended for roofs made with a slope of 30ᵒ, although if desired, you can adjust them to 11-70ᵒ.

Important! The minimum slope at which the installation of tiles is allowed is 11ᵒ.

Stage 2. Preparing everything you need

To install tiles, you need the following equipment:

metal scissors;
ladder;
electric drill;
long rail;
screwdriver;
mounting tape;
measuring device;
hammer;
marker;
personal protective equipment (mittens, plastic glasses).

You will also need the following consumables:

waterproofing;
tiles;
roofing strips;
aero roller;
trims for ends and ridge;
decorative overlays;
self-tapping screws, sealing washers and for them;
boards 2.5x10 cm;
guide board.

Stage 3. Foundation

As noted earlier, metal tiles weigh little, so they do not need a reinforced base - you will need a regular sheathing of wooden slats. The pitch of the sheathing should be calculated according to the dimensions of the tiles, so as not to drive the screws into the void during installation.

Stage 4. Thermal insulation

Thermal insulation is necessary not only to prevent heat loss, but also to protect against the noise of rain. First, the rafters are covered with a vapor barrier material (for example, Izospan or Yutafol). Next, an insulating layer (no more than 25 cm thick) is laid, covered with an antioxidant film and attached to the rafters with wooden blocks.

Important! The material between the bars should sag slightly (about 2 cm) so that the condensate flows only into the drain.

Stage 5. Installation of tiles. Basic Rules

can be done in one of two ways. If the stacking of sheets begins on the right, then each new one is superimposed on the previous one. If it’s the other way around, then the previous sheets are superimposed.
In order to ensure correct installation, four sheets of tiles, located overlapping relative to each other, are first grabbed, aligned, and only then finally connected with one self-tapping screw.
Self-tapping screws must be of high quality, because the service life of the roofing largely depends on them. These must be galvanized screws with sealing heads made of propylene rubber, hermetically filling the hole when tightened.
A thickening appears at the junction of the four sheets. It needs to be removed, for which part of the corner is cut off or the capillary ditch located under the stamping line is straightened.

Stage 6. Individual elements

Step 1. The end strips are fixed with an overlap (about 2 cm). The size of the wave is adjusted to the width of the slope, otherwise the crest may fit on the pediment.

Step 2. A roofing strip is added, then an additional sealant is placed between it and the sheet of material.

Step 3. When arranging pipes or windows that are located below the ridge, sheets with one module are taken - two pieces for each structural element.

Step 4. For sloping slopes, an aeroroller is installed between the material and the ridge strip, which will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the ridge.

Step 5. The ridge is fixed on the strips located at the ends of the structure. This must be done in such a way that it protrudes by 2-3 cm. In the case of a flat ridge, all elements are attached with an overlap, and if it is semicircular, then only according to the profile lines.

It is also worth noting that, if necessary, the ridge strips can be bent and unbent so that they follow the angle of the roof.

Stage 7. Arrangement of the valley

An additional board is attached to each valley. Installation in this case starts from the bottom and is carried out with an overlap of 25-30 cm. Below the level of the cornice, the bottom strip is cut off and flanging is made along it. A sealant is placed under each trim and ridge.

There is a gap between the axle and the sheets (at least 8-10 cm). Screws are screwed into the cut sheets one and a half centimeters from the stamping line. However, when fixing, the fasteners are made 25 cm from the axis of the valley. If everything was done correctly, then upon completion of the work the sheet at the fastening point will be in contact with the board where the valley is located.

Important! If mistakes were made, the fastening will be located in other places and, as a result, gaps will form on the surface through which the roof will leak.

To cover the cut sheets, decorative overlays are used, when installing which you need to remember some important points:

Often the beginning and end of the valleys are on the roof slope. Take, for example, the installation of a dormer window. Here a separate board is placed under the valley. For the window itself, a cutout is made in the sheet, and sealing material is laid along the walls. In this case, the eaves overhang is covered with a plank.

Then the valley strips, previously cut at the edges, are fixed. The released part should adhere extremely tightly to the tile sheet.

Prices for different types of tiles

Roof tiles

Video - Laying metal tiles

Slopes in the form of a trapezoid or triangle

If the roof slopes have a trapezoidal or triangular shape, then it is necessary to install additional bars.

Step 1. The bars are attached on both sides of the “ridge” along the fold line of the roof.

Step 2. The cornice board is installed and assembled.

Step 3. The cornice system is being constructed.

Step 4. The tiles are laid. This is done along the line of one of the edges or the axis. The first sheet is aligned with the cornice strip.

Important! It is unacceptable that the distance between the cut corner sheets installed near the “ridge” be more than 10 cm.

Step 5. To install the ridge assemblies, perform the following steps. The ridge strips are aligned to the angle of the “ridge”. If a straight ridge is used, then it is cut according to the corners, and if it is semicircular in shape, then the installation of an additional plug (preferably plastic) will be required.

Step 6. The ridge strip lies strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. This is quite simple to do if the angles of the slopes are the same, but if they are different, then it is correspondingly difficult. To control the junction of the slopes, bright-colored mounting tape is used.

Features of material care

As already mentioned, metal tiles are covered with a polymer layer that protects against corrosion. But constant exposure to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation and dust sooner or later causes the destruction of the protective layer. This is why metal roofing should be cleaned regularly.

Dirt and dry leaves are washed off with a damp fluffy brush.
To remove more complex stains, you can use special cleaning products for polymer surfaces.
Do not use aggressive chemicals - they can destroy the protective layer.
Gutters are cleaned with a stream of water under pressure. The jet must be directed from the ridge to the eaves.
To clear the roof of snow, you can use only those tools that, in principle, are unable to damage the coating.

If all these rules are followed, it will last about 50 years.

Metal tiles are one of the most popular roofing materials among owners of country houses. In addition to excellent performance characteristics, it has another important advantage - ease of installation. You can cover the roof with roofing sheets of this type yourself.

What tools and materials will you need?

Screwdriver and hammer;
Electric hacksaws and scissors;
Long staff and marker.

An electric hacksaw is needed for cutting rafters and boards. Using metal scissors, metal tiles are cut.

You cannot cut this material with a grinder. Otherwise, due to damage to the top layer by sparks, the sheets will not last long and you will have to repair the roof with reinstallation of the roofing material.

From the materials you will need to prepare:

Beam for rafters 50x150 mm;
Beam for Mauerlat 150x150 mm;
Lathing board 25x100 mm;
30x50 mm batten for counter-lattice;
Waterproofing membrane;
Mineral wool;
Consumables.

The cross-section of lumber must be maintained. Otherwise, the owners of the house will soon have to repair the roof or even reinstall it after assembly.

In addition to the metal tiles themselves, you will need to purchase various types of additional elements: cornice and end strips, valleys, ridge element, chimney apron, snow retainers, etc.

Additional elements for metal tiles

How much does a metal roofing cost?

The cost of a roof made of this material depends on several factors:

Type of polymer coating material;
Difficulty in roof configuration;
Type of insulation used;
Roof size.

On average, 1 m2 of metal roofing costs approximately 1,000 rubles. Therefore, making a preliminary rough calculation will not be difficult. To do this, the roof area in square meters should simply be multiplied by 1000.

Features of constructing a roof made of metal tiles

Of course, the installation of this material on the installed frame should be carried out correctly. This applies to both the assembly of the rafter system and the cutting and installation of the sheets themselves. There will be no need to repair the roof for a long time even if it is properly covered with waterproofing.

Preparatory work

The construction of a rafter system begins with measuring all the walls and eliminating discrepancies in their dimensions. The smoother the structural elements of the house frame are, the less effort will subsequently have to be spent on adjusting the rafter legs. Before starting work on assembling the roof, all lumber must be dried under a canopy for several months. The Mauerlat is installed first, and then the beams for the floor.

Material measurements

In order to draw up a roof plan, various types of measurements should be taken. For example, all the videos available on this topic on the Internet present this process like this:

First of all, measure the exact length of all the walls of the box. Based on this, the area of the slopes is determined;
Determine where the chimney, ventilation holes, roof windows, etc. will be located.

In accordance with the results obtained, the sheets and timber are then calculated.

Lumber calculation

After the roof project has been drawn up, you can begin to calculate the required lumber. Their number depends primarily on the angle of inclination of the slopes and the area of the roof. Most often, a gable roof with a slope of 30–35 degrees is installed under metal tiles.

The amount of timber for the rafter legs is determined depending on the step at which they are going to be installed, the height of the roof and its dimensions.

The length of one leg is calculated by the formula c = √(v2 + m2), where v is the height of the roof, and m is half the span length.

The pitch between the rafters on a roof with a metal tile roof is usually 80–100 cm (depending on the width of the sheets). You can calculate the required number of rafters as follows:

Divide the length of the wall by the selected step;
Add one to the result and round up.

The rafter system for metal tiles does not require any additional reinforcement. The amount of material required for the sheathing is calculated based on the fact that the pitch between its elements should be 35–40 cm.

Assembling the rafter system

The roof frame is constructed using the following technology:

Mauerlat is fixed on the walls. It can be fixed with studs embedded in the masonry, or with anchor bolts cast into the upper reinforcing belt;
Mount the rafters. The easiest way is to fix the legs on the support beam using corners (preferably galvanized ones, otherwise you will soon have to carry out roof repairs and replace them). The top of the rafters is most often cut at an appropriate angle and fastened in pairs using steel strips and crossbars.

Roof frame construction

On large and high roofs, ridge beams are often used. In this case, the rafters are secured with planks above it and additionally pulled to it with corners. The ridge beam itself is mounted on racks fixed to the Mauerlat of the short walls of the house box.

Hydro- and thermal insulation device

Sometimes a cold roof is made from metal tiles. However, most often it is still insulated, as this significantly improves its performance characteristics. Wire or sparse plank sheathing is used as support for the heat insulator from the attic side. They insert cotton wool between the rafters at random. The top should be covered with waterproofing material, securing it with bars.

Waterproofing scheme

The strips are placed horizontally with an overlap of 15 cm. Do not stretch the film too tightly. Otherwise, when the rafter system moves due to shrinkage of the walls and wind, it may break. The sag of the film should be about 2 cm.

Roof sheathing

It is correct to assemble the base for metal tiles from fairly wide boards (at least 20 cm). Narrow material may warp under the influence of adverse weather factors. The sheathing is installed using a pole and a building level.

The distance between the first two sheathing boards from the bottom should be very small - 10–15 cm. The sheathing is arranged with the elements fastened to two nails to each rafter. In this way, you can assemble a reliable base for metal tile sheets.

How to correctly calculate metal tiles

After assembling the sheathing, you can install the roofing sheets themselves. But of course, you must first make an accurate calculation of the required quantity. A video demonstrating the process of performing these operations is available on the Internet. You can, of course, look at it, but in principle there is nothing complicated in such a calculation. Perform this operation like this:

Calculate the area of each slope;
Calculate the number of sheets required to cover it, taking into account their width and length;
Add up the results obtained.

How to properly install cornice strips and lower valleys

The instructions for attaching these elements are simple. The cornice strip is installed before installing the sheets. The frontal board is pre-stuffed. The gutter brackets are attached to it. Next, you can begin to actually attach the bar itself.

Installation of cornice strips

Another element that needs to be installed before covering the slopes with metal tiles is the lower protective valleys. Their installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:

The sheathing under the valley must be continuous;
Installation of valley elements begins from the bottom up;
Each lower element should be overlapped with the upper one by at least 10 cm.

Choosing metal tiles

There are several types of metal tiles. When choosing this material, you should consider the following:

Only sheets made of steel with a thickness of at least 0.45 mm are considered reliable;
In central Russia, roofs are usually covered with inexpensive sheets with a polyester protective layer;
Warranty period for good material is at least 10–15 years. Home owners who buy this material will not have to pay for repairs if any problems arise.

Installation of sheets

So, now let's see how to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands. Installation of sheets begins from the bottom. When assembling the first row, a cornice overhang about 5 cm wide is arranged. Actually, the instructions for filing themselves look like this:

The first sheet is attached with one screw at the very top;
Then several more sheets (2–3) are attached to it along the side edge;
The entire pack is carefully leveled and secured to the roof frame.

Installation of additional elements

After all the slopes are sheathed, you can begin installing additional elements. First, the upper valley strips are attached. In this case, they perform mainly a purely decorative function. They are mounted on a self-expanding seal.

At the next stage, the end elements are fixed to the gables. Next, the ridge is installed. They fasten it in the same way as the upper valleys on the sealing tape.

Attic roof roof

Construction of the rafter system mansard roof done like this:

Racks are attached under the layered rafters, purlins and tie-downs;
The ridge is being installed. Its racks are secured in the middle of the puffs;
Layered and then hanging rafters are installed;
The sheathing is filled taking into account the characteristics of the roofing material.

Metal tiles are first sheathed on the sheathing of the layered rafters, and then on the hanging rafters. On the latter, in the same way as on the cornice, an overhang is made.

Some subtleties of installing metal tiles

The installation of sheets should be carried out by at least two people in compliance with the following recommendations:

The capillary grooves must be completely covered by the next sheets in the row;
All sheets must be carefully aligned parallel to the cornice.

We cover the roof: how to get around the chimney

Scheme of bypassing a pipe with metal tiles

The construction of a metal tile roof must be such that in the area where the material adjoins the chimney pipe, water does not leak into the under-roof space. To solve this problem, special aprons are used. The instructions for installing them are as follows:

Before laying the metal tiles, a continuous sheathing is packed around the pipe. A waterproofing material is glued onto it with an overlap of 15–20 cm on the pipe walls. A groove is made in the chimney itself along the entire perimeter.
After laying the metal tiles, the lower apron is installed first, and then the upper one. The bent edges of their vertical parts are inserted into the groove.

Subtleties of installing curtain rods

The cornice and end strips must be fixed to the wood of the frame in increments of approximately 30 cm. If this condition is not met, they may subsequently move away, and unnecessary repairs will have to be made. It is highly not recommended to mount them end-to-end. Each subsequent plank must overlap the previous one by at least 1 cm. These elements are fastened with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern.

Installation of valleys: features

The lower valley should be secured with self-tapping screws into each purlin. Its overlap on the slopes should be at least 25 cm. In this case, there will be no need to repair the roof due to a rotten frame. The upper valley is mounted in such a way as not to damage the lower one. They attach it to the metal tiles either with special corners or with self-tapping screws at the top of the wave (in each).

Fastening sheets to roof breaks

Installation of roof breaks

As already mentioned, on attic sloping roofs, metal tiles are laid on the break with an overhang. Before installation, a drip strip (in increments of 30 cm) is usually mounted on the edges of the slopes of such a rafter system for reliability.

Sometimes there is another type of fracture in the roof configuration - with a negative angle. They close it in much the same way as valleys. In this case, the carpet is laid in such a width that it extends at least 35 cm onto the upper part of the slope, and 15 cm onto the lower part. The sheathing under it should also be continuous.

Installation of snow guards

This additional element is mounted on flat roofs to avoid snow avalanches. The instructions for installing snow guards include the following steps:

Fastening is done with long self-tapping screws into the sheathing;
You need to make holes in the metal tiles and line them with rubber seals;
The brackets must be screwed correctly at a distance of at least 35 cm from the cornice.

Installation of lightning protection

Lightning protection scheme for a metal roof

This system must be assembled. If the lightning is attracted by the metal covering, you will have to carry out expensive roof repairs. And of course, natural electrical discharge is a very dangerous phenomenon for those living in the house. Lightning protection is assembled from the following elements:

Lightning rod, which is a rod with a length of 5 m;
Down conductor (circular wire);
Grounding conductor made of a metal strip with a thickness of at least 150 mm.

The lightning rod is fixed to the roof ridge. A wire is wrapped around the chimney and connected to the middle of the rod. The ground electrode is dug into the ground to a depth of at least 80 cm and connected to the lightning rod via a down conductor.

Safety precautions

When installing metal tile sheets, observe the following safety rules:

Cutting sheets and installing them on the roof is done using gloves;
Take the sheets by the edges from the sides;
To move along long slopes, special stairs are used;
People walk on the roof in soft shoes. In this case, there will be no need for early repairs due to damage to the coating.

Conclusion

As you can see, installing metal tiles is a relatively simple matter. Numerous videos and photos available on the Internet confirm this. Rafter system under this material it may not be too powerful, since its weight is not particularly large. In this case, the rafters and sheathing are mounted using standard methods. When installing the sheets themselves, you should adhere to all the required technologies: do not cut the material with a grinder and correctly fasten all additional elements. In this case, the roof will be reliable and its repair will not be required for as long as possible.
Detailed instructions for installing metal roofing are presented in the video.