The staircase to the second floor is metal. Iron staircase to the second floor - cold metal as an addition to home comfort. Video - DIY metal stairs

You can turn to professionals for help, but keep in mind that they may not pay attention to minor defects during construction, which can subsequently lead to serious damage and subsequent repairs. A staircase to the second floor made independently will give you several advantages:

  • the result will meet expectations;
  • will help save money and nerves;
  • a staircase made by yourself will become a source of pride for you.

If you are limited in cash to purchase materials, you can buy cheaper analogues: instead of wood, use chipboard, which can be coated with varnish or paint.

In pursuit of savings, you can lose sight of quality. Cheap though wooden staircase It can also last quite a long time, but very soon it will start to creak. To avoid this problem, the stairs must be assembled using silicone sealant, which cannot be done without first painting the parts.

In this article we will talk about how to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands from wood and metal, and also show photo and video instructions.


To make an interfloor staircase, concrete with tile or marble cladding, metal (a welding machine is required), and wood can be used. The last option is the most practical and convenient. The wooden structure is lightweight, easy to install and has a beautiful appearance.


If you have a room with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, you should give preference to straight structures, or with a staircase turning by 25%. The flight of stairs is made with a length of 80 cm. This option allows you to use the space under the stairs for storing things. One cannot fail to note a minus: the free space on the upper and lower floors will be significantly reduced.

To save precious square meters, a spiral staircase is ideal, but it is also not without its drawbacks:

  • the climb is too steep;
  • small width of stairs.

Installing a spiral staircase will require 3 m² of free space and a lot of labor.

Another option for constructing a staircase is possible, in which it is located along the surface of the wall. In this case, it is worth considering two marches and a turn. This way you will make it as compact and comfortable as possible for movement.


  1. Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs. Measure the distance between the floors of the first and second floors along with the ceiling. This way you will determine the height of the structure. The step should have a height of 18–20 cm. Next, dividing the height of the stairs by the height of the steps, you will get the total number of steps.
  2. Projection of dimensions onto the floor surface. To design the structure, it is necessary to determine the width of the steps (approximately 30 cm), after which their number must be multiplied by their width. As a result, you will get the projection size.
  3. Manufacturing of staircase elements. To make a stringer you will need timber measuring 14×16, steps – 4 cm boards, risers – 2.5 cm boards. You will determine the length of the step yourself, remembering that the larger it is, the better.
  4. Preliminary fitting. If everything fits during the preliminary fitting of parts, process each element grinder and assemble the structure. To fix the staircase parts together, coat all places where they come into contact with each other with glue (PVA or wood glue) and additionally secure with screws.
  5. Stain and varnish coating. First, apply stain to the surface, and after waiting for it to dry, cover it with several layers of varnish.


As a design solution, you can consider mortise steps, which are inserted into grooves cut into the stringer:

  1. Make markings on the stringer where the steps will be installed. Using a hacksaw and chisel, cut out the grooves.
  2. Make several 9mm holes in the center of the groove.
  3. Screw the turbo couplings into the holes made.
  4. Install the step into the groove and tighten with bolts.


When purchasing planed wood, you must consider the following requirements:

  • there should be no dark spots on the surface;
  • The presence of cracks, chips, roughness and other defects is unacceptable.

Knots (diameter up to 1 cm) can only be present if the material is used to make steps or risers. Also pay attention to humidity; the large mass of the board indicates that you should refuse the purchase.

When making a structure without experience, you may encounter certain difficulties, but your desire and desire will help you achieve the desired result.


Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of making wooden stairs. First of all, it is necessary to make drawings with individual design details. To do this, take well-dried wood and transfer the appropriate dimensions to it. Several factors should be taken into account:

  • The strength and reliability of the staircase will entirely depend on the correct cutting of the stringers. Therefore, their production must be approached responsibly. Moreover, for the stringer it is necessary to select a solid board that does not have large knots in large quantities. The thickness of the board can be 45–50 mm.
  • The board for risers can be 15–20 mm thicker than what is allocated for them on the stringer, and the thickness of the riser is also taken into account. The treads themselves should have a perfectly flat surface with neatly rounded edges. The thickness of the board can be between 30–35 mm.
  • If you want to make a closed staircase with risers, then their manufacture must also be extremely careful. Its thickness should not be large, 15–20 mm is enough. In this case, the main load will go to the stringers. The risers themselves play the role of support.
  • As for balusters and handrails, it is recommended to purchase them ready-made with stationary fastenings.

If you have small children at home, then for safety reasons, install 2 balusters on each step. In all other cases, you can install one at a time.


When all the design blanks are ready, you can begin the most important stage of work - installation of the stairs. All subsequent work looks like this:

  • Stringers are installed at the selected location. To do this, attach a support beam to the floor; it is on it that the stringer will be attached. At the top, the fastening is carried out in a cut groove in the beam. In some cases, a metal support is used for fastening. In this case, an anchor bolt is used for fastening. When installing the stringer, be sure to check everything for a level or plumb line.
  • Before laying the tread fabric, you should screw the risers.


  • After this, treads are fixed with self-tapping screws on the stringers and on top of the risers in the direction from bottom to top.
  • After this, the balusters are installed.


So, you install support drains on top of the stairs and below. They will serve as the border of the handrails and also support the railing.

In addition, the support posts serve as decorative elements. Therefore, they are often made using wood cutting.


Balusters, in turn, can have different shapes, dimensions and fastening methods. Some, for example, are simply screwed on with self-tapping screws, others are mounted in pre-drilled holes. But in any case, the attachment point must be covered with a decorative plug. Further work as follows:

  • On top of the installed balusters, attach the railings to the outer support posts. Additionally, you can install 1 or 2 additional support posts in the middle.
  • When using two, three or more support posts, instead of balusters, several boards can be installed between the posts parallel to the slope of the stairs.
  • At the next stage, you can begin sanding using sandpaper or a sander. After this, the paint coating is applied.


The first layer acts as an antiseptic against rotting and mold/mildew. The structure must dry, after which you can begin the main painting.

The staircase is covered with water-based varnish, hot wax or paint. You can also cover the wood with stain, which will slightly darken the structure. It all depends on your desire.









    Scheme


















    Video

    We present to your attention a video film in which the main character is a wooden staircase.


A metal staircase will fit perfectly into a modern interior

The staircase to the second floor must be planned at the design stage of the house. When a professional architect studies its shape and size, he carefully selects a place for it in the house. He tries on her gait and style, fits it into the interior. Of course, with such a designer you will not need installation and assembly knowledge. But what if you like to create with your hands? If the process itself, as well as the unsurpassed result, gives you pleasure? In this case, you just have to study the rules of manufacture and their types and forms, in general - become an architect. - This is a very reliable way to connect floors to each other. Iron structures have many advantages with certain disadvantages.

Advantages

The malleability of metal allows us to realize our most sophisticated imagination. Designs made from it are durable and can convey the beauty of the product for many generations. The strength of the elements and the rigidity of the joints make it possible to use metal both as a frame and as a decorative material. Welding and anchor fastenings give reliability and stability to flights of stairs. A properly treated surface will last a long time with simple care.



Metal allows you to create very unusual designs

Flaws

To ensure that metal marches are not bulky in the interior, you should choose the shape and type of connections. It may be necessary to build a partition as additional support for the frame. A metal ladder must be installed on a solid foundation, since metal has considerable weight, and thin rods will not withstand the load. As a rule, metal is used as stringers, bowstrings and railings, and other materials, such as wood or stone, are used for steps. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully consider the places and options for connecting different materials.



Although, in some cases, the use of metal steps is very appropriate

Working with metal requires special skills, equipment and space. Metal stringers and strings are quite heavy. It will be difficult to install them alone. You can assemble a modular staircase with your own hands if you have welding skills. As a last resort, invite a welder and explain with the help of a drawing what kind of staircase he needs to make.



But to create such a structure, a welder alone is not enough

Paper will endure anything

The speed of construction, beauty and reliability of your staircase depend on what kind of drawing you make, how deeply and in detail you think through all the elements, dimensions and mounting options. The first thing to do is determine the location for it and choose the type:





Your first choice moved you from a state of rest. Now you should go further and choose the option of the base or supporting structure:



without visible supporting elements. A frame made of bowstrings or stringers is rigidly attached to the floor and ceiling, connecting the second floor to the first.

This design is more complex, but also most effective.

Modular types of stairs

If you have chosen to make your own metal staircase resting on one central support, then you should consider the possibility. Then you can assemble all the components into a single staircase with your own hands without noise, dust and energy costs. To do this, you can postpone the assembly process for more late date, completing the interior decoration of the room, and calmly select the finished staircase according to the style. Assembling a modular staircase

As a rule, modular types of stairs come with detailed instructions on installation. You only need to correctly determine the location of the central support, think about how to attach this structure to the ceiling and assemble it, like a construction set.

Important!The exit to the second floor must be fenced with railings.

Stringers and bowstrings

If you decide to make the steps to the second floor with your own hands using stringers, then for treads up to 800 mm wide one central stringer is sufficient. It will support the steps from below using a leveling platform on a frame made from angle or profile pipe. You can, as an option, make a stringer from a profile pipe by welding it from segments at right angles. Then you should choose a pipe measuring 120x60 mm. Make a platform for a wooden or stone step from a 5 mm sheet. Drill four holes for the fastening bolts with a decorative cap. For greater stability, you can secure the sheet through the corners or transverse gussets.



The metal staircase on the central stringer looks the most sophisticated

Stair steps on bowstrings are most often covered with wooden, glass or stone overlays

Advice! You should not pay attention to bulky metal stairs. For the first time to make it yourself, choose the least labor-intensive, but most stylish, durable and lightweight design. The supporting elements should be both powerful and not massive.

Conditions of comfort and safety

To make a metal staircase comfortable and beautiful, you need to understand a few clear, indispensable rules.



Careful observance of basic rules will ensure the appearance of comfortable and safe flights of stairs in your home. You, your family and many friends will enjoy using it.


  • If the exit to the second floor is made in a wooden ceiling, then it should be between the beams and not exceed 800 mm, so as not to cut them.
  • If the width of the steps to the second floor is more than 900 mm, then it is necessary to install two stringers or bowstrings.
  • Steps made of stone or hardwood can be installed on gussets from the corner with the edge outward, where the long part will lie under the tread, and the short part will be exactly the height of the riser. These frames are welded to the end, narrow part of the supporting stringer. WITH inside covering bowstrings, you can weld straight segments of an angle or profile pipe. Then the edges should be rounded or covered with plastic, and the treads will lie between the bowstrings.
  • Welding work and fastening stringers and bowstrings to the wall should be carried out after laying electrical cables, installing partitions and attaching drywall to the wall. This is necessary to avoid the inconvenience of making grooves behind and under the stringers. It is advisable that the rough finishing of the room does not creep onto the flight of stairs.
  • The installation of all elements must be checked by level and only then welded or bolted together thoroughly.

Creating a staircase on stringers

Don't worry, you will definitely make the exit to the second floor. Make it yourself. Your staircase will be beautiful and light, because it will not have risers, and you will certainly decorate the space under it with some kind of cabinet. You will try and provide for everything that an experienced architect would think about.

Among the wide variety of flights of stairs, it is metal stairs for country house or dachas give the interior individuality, a certain brutal atmosphere in a loft style. Components for stairs to the second floor of a house are selected depending on the location of use, the strength of the interfloor ceilings, the expected load and the manufacturer’s warranty. What kind of metal should be used to build a staircase to the second floor of a summer house or cottage?

Stainless steel: shine of chrome-plated handrails

Stainless steel is a material that will not let you down in many respects:

  • wear-resistant;
  • immune to shoe marks;
  • not afraid of temperature changes, exposure to the sun, high humidity;
  • does not react to the effects of chemicals;
  • environmentally friendly;
  • doesn't need special care;
  • reasonable price.

Why are metal stairs popular?

The choice of stairs is from of stainless steel for the second floor of a house or cottage is due to the following properties:

  1. High strength of the product. This design can withstand heavy weight and is not subject to deformation processes. Components made from this material are scratch-resistant and do not corrode, even when exposed to open air.
  2. Aesthetics and versatility. The beautiful shiny mirror surface of stainless steel stairs goes well with high-tech interiors and materials such as glass, concrete, and natural stone.
  3. The stainless steel structure will decorate the facades of modern buildings, both residential premises and shops and offices.
  4. Production of products of any size, individual design, affordable price.
  5. Light weight of the finished product, which is especially important when planning to install it on the ceiling of the second floor of a cottage or house.

These qualities are characteristic of stainless steel structures due to the composition of the material itself: the alloy contains more than 13 percent chromium. If the amount of chromium exceeds 17 percent, products made from corrosion-resistant material are not afraid of outdoor operating conditions.
By installing a stainless steel structure indoors or outdoors, you can get rid of problems with caring for the product for many years, since the manufacturer provides a guarantee of up to 40 years.

Options for metal stairs leading to the second floor

The production of metal stairs is possible in different structural solutions: screw, cantilever, bolt, marching, modular.
When choosing a design type, you need to consider some points:

  • the marching design requires a lot of space, but it is safe and fairly flat;
  • lifting and lowering along the screw structure is difficult, especially for the elderly;
  • the bolt staircase to the second floor is beautiful and comfortable, economical in space;
  • the console version is very extravagant and creative, but requires a particularly careful approach to fasteners and is unacceptable in a house or country house with small children or elderly people, since it is not possible to install a fence;
  • The modular design is easy to install, since it is made of separate parts, assembled like a construction set, and its price is quite reasonable.

Components for metal products can be traditionally made of metal, but in Lately Glass, wood, and plastic are often used. The latter options are acceptable for indoor use, but cannot be used outdoors. In this case, stainless steel is the only possible solution that can withstand changing weather conditions, extremes temperature regime, the price corresponds to the quality.

Manufacturers of stair products offer options that include forged elements, protective inserts, vertical components, and lighting. Most often, there are staircases to the second floor with metal railings, but wooden steps; such components are much more durable and reliable than glass and plastic, although the price of metal and valuable species is higher. There is a huge selection of components, especially railings. design solutions and can become a decoration for any interior.

Combined design - metal central stringer and plastic treads

Preparation and installation of metal stairs

First, decide on the installation location of the product leading to the second floor of your dacha. Make a choice regarding the type of staircase, its size, number of steps, their width, height, what the angle of inclination will be, and the design of the staircase. The idea of ​​installing a staircase should be included in the project for the construction of a building or its reconstruction, since specialists must provide a place for attaching supports, leave the necessary space, and the necessary openings for future installation of the staircase. Decide on the design of the fence and, most importantly, the material that will be used for it.

Metal fencing made of stainless steel is a way to decorate the interior of a room in a high-tech, loft or industrial style and provide a reliable system safe operation stairs. Forged railings will add charm and the spirit of antiquity to the structure. The glass fencing will add space and airiness. Well, wood will bring comfort and warmth into the atmosphere of the house. Based on the size of the structure, consider the fastening system: when large sizes It would be wiser to fasten the stairs both at the bottom and at the top, since the structure, which is not located near the wall, needs at least two points of support.

Accessories for metal stairs

A metal structure plus the same fencing is the most naturally perceived option, a single whole. Metal handrails are mounted in two ways: assembly and welding. The welding method ensures reliability, strength, and stability of the installed structure; these qualities will remain for many years.
The cost of fastening by assembling elements is significantly less than by welding, but over time, the fencing elements become loose and can pose a threat to safe use.
It must be remembered that when choosing iron railings, you need to carefully monitor the smoothness and safety of the surface so as not to injure your hands.

Don't go wrong with your choice!

Remember, choosing a staircase for your home or cottage is a crucial moment, the result of which you will observe for many years, and the low price of the structure should not be the determining factor. Also, do not lose sight of the fact that a completely metal staircase is only suitable for industrial workshops. And in your cozy home, climbing to the second floor should be accompanied by comfort and safety. Therefore, do not use bare metal on steps; it is slippery and unpleasant for bare feet.

We will send the material to you by e-mail

So you have built your own house, but there will still be a lot of interior work, especially if the home is two-story. One of important points when arranging it, there is a staircase to the second floor. There are many options for its installation and standard projects, but the most reliable option is considered to be on a metal frame. We will tell you what schemes are available and how to implement them in practice to create a reliable design.

Stairs in the house

Why metal frame?

Stairs to the second floor on a metal frame have many advantages, including:

  • Reliability;
  • Strength;
  • Wide possibilities for decoration, including large steps and other decor of any weight.
  • Durability.

But choosing, let alone installing such a staircase is not so easy and you need to be provided with a variety of standard layouts and other important details.

Typical designs

Since stairs have been used in houses for a long time, there are a variety of their designs, these include:

  • Marching - this metal support includes corners and channels. The frame is welded from the latter, and steps from the corners are attached to them. If a single-flight staircase is planned, then the use of support logs is allowed; they are installed in a cone shape. When choosing this constructive solution, make sure the steps are parallel to the floor.


  • On the stringers. A stringer is a support that is located under the steps; it can be in two versions - double and single. The first structure is placed on both sides of the staircase, and the step rests on two points: one stringer, channel or I-beam. It is placed in the middle of the structure, and they are attached to it metal plates, on which steps are in turn mounted.


  • On bowstrings - that is, on a support that is located on the side of the steps.
  • Spiral - these are used when it is not possible to install a full-fledged staircase. The role of support is played by a metal pillar in the central part, around which paddle-shaped steps are mounted. This type of staircase will definitely not work if there are elderly people or small children in the house.

Related article:

Requirements

Making a staircase to the second floor on a metal frame is labor-intensive and requires compliance with certain rules. And this is not without reason, because the safety of movement and the comfort of passage from the first floor to the second will depend on its quality and convenience. These rules include:

  • The width of the staircase opening is 90 cm;
  • The slope of the march must be constant, the values ​​of the slope angles are presented in the table below;
  • The most convenient step height is considered to be from 14 to 18 cm;
  • The depth of each is no more than 27 cm;
  • If there is a guardrail on the stairs, it must be able to withstand a load of at least 100 kg;
  • The distance between the posts is 15 cm, and this is the maximum.
WidthHeightMarch slope
40 cm10 cm14⁰
38 cm11 cm16⁰
36 cm12 cm18⁰
34 cm13 cm21⁰
30 cm15 cm26⁰
28 cm16 cm29⁰
26 cm17 cm33⁰
24 cm18 cm37⁰
22 cm19 cm40⁰

Frame calculation

Stairs to the second floor on a metal frame require careful calculations. The quality of the project is half the battle and needs to be given close attention. What is important to consider when designing is the design of the frame, the method of fastening it and each of its elements, the size of the marches, the opening between floors, the height of the steps and their width, and the necessary materials.

We have already understood about possible design variations; as for the opening, it has a direct dependence on the height of the ceilings and the steepness of the stairs. The height of the steps can be different, the generally accepted one is from 14 to 18, but it will have to be calculated in kind, as well as their number. This can be done by dividing the length of the structure by the height of the steps.

When you have received all the data, you need to sketch the structure on a sheet of paper where you indicate all the dimensions and dimensions, this will help you when welding the frame and its components.

Preparation

Before you start work, you need to prepare everything necessary tools and equipment. Welding work should be carried out in special clothing and gloves to avoid injury. Of course, you need a manual inverter and electrodes, as well as a protective mask. You also need a grinder with cutting discs for grinding, a drill and metal drills. You will also need a reliable metal table, clamps, a vice, a tape measure, a square and a pencil. First you need to take all measurements and cut the materials into the necessary parts.


Supports

At the very beginning, you need to make supports; depending on the chosen type of structure, they can be different:

Process

Armed with the above tools, you need to weld the structures in accordance with the project. Check the parallelism of the placement of the elements on which the steps (supports) will be mounted. It’s good if you have an assistant with the appropriate equipment, since some elements are difficult to weld on your own. For example, stringers at right angles. The advantage of making a frame with your own hands is the ability to create any configuration and quickly change it.

Today, metal for the construction of stairs has become perhaps the most popular material, posing serious competition to wood. Moreover, it is mainly not beautiful forged products that are used, but those welded from corners and channels. The reason, of course, lies in the availability of the material and its strength.

Basically, a simple frame is made of metal, which is subsequently finished with more beautiful and warm materials, like wood. Today we will discuss all aspects of such structures, and also learn how to make an iron staircase to the second floor with your own hands.

Like other structures, iron stairs to the second floor have their advantages and disadvantages.

Let's name the most notable ones:

  • The simplicity and strength of the design is perhaps the most significant advantage. They serve for a very long time, especially if proper and timely care is performed during operation.
  • Despite the unpretentiousness of metal in terms of aesthetics, you can make a staircase truly beautiful and original, since all kinds of pipes, channels, I-beam angles, ropes, etc. are used for this.
  • Metal combines perfectly with other materials, which can also be used to create a certain style for both the structure and the room as a whole.
  • Unlike, metal will never creak, but this does not mean that such structures are quiet. If the steps are made of metal, then when walking, a corresponding sound will be constantly heard, which also needs to be taken into account when designing.

There are also disadvantages:

  • The first thing is, of course, the appearance. Yes, we wrote that there are many options and interesting combinations can be made, but not everyone can do this, and hiring a designer is expensive for many of our people, which is why all the metal is usually hidden out of sight.
  • The second drawback is that making an iron staircase to the second floor with your own hands is quite difficult. You need to be able to handle a welding machine, you need to move fairly massive parts, and you also need high accuracy when calculating and cutting workpieces.

Advice! To refute the last statement, let’s say that you can purchase a ready-made modular design, as in the photo above. These stairs are assembled very simply, like a children's construction set. All you need is the included instructions, a set of wrenches and a screwdriver.

  • Disadvantages also include the periodic need for touch-up, especially if the staircase has contact with water.

Otherwise, you are free to see your pros and cons, focusing primarily on your own needs and financial capabilities.

Types of metal stairs

Now let's look at what kind of stairs there are for the second floor and how they are designed in order to better understand what we will have to face when assembling it ourselves. Based on their location, metal stairs, like the rest, are usually divided into internal and.

According to the method of connecting parts, there are already three types: welded, forged and bolted:

  • The most in a simple way of those mentioned is naturally a bolted connection. It looks quite good, but over time, from constant walking, the components begin to become loose, which is why the design requires periodic revision and tightening of the bolts. If this is not done, the weakened connections will begin to sag under the weight of the structure, which can lead to deformation of the parts.
  • Welding is very reliable, but without proper processing it looks rough. Let us remind you again that its implementation will require certain skills. This method and the previous one are suitable for connecting both decorative and load-bearing parts of the structure.
  • Forging is the prerogative of craftsmen who charge impressive sums for their work, so it is not necessary to take it into account for self-assembly. It is mainly used to create beautiful enclosing structures.

From here we can derive the following classification, which divides all metal stairs into solid and collapsible. We think there is no point in explaining, so we move on. The next important difference is the configuration of the stairs.

The following types are distinguished:

  • The first type of structure consists of marches - straight sections of ascent from repeating steps of the same shape and size (which is why it is called marching).
  • There can be one or several marches. In the second case, they alternate in a certain sequence, changing direction. This approach allows you to make stairs more compact when climbing to great heights.

  • To reverse the direction of the stairs, intermediate platforms or winder steps are used.
  • The winder steps are somewhat reminiscent of a piece of a spiral staircase, and therefore have an irregular trapezoidal shape. The use of this structural element allows you to make the staircase more compact.
  • The platform has a simpler structure, is much easier to manufacture and more convenient to use, therefore the method of rotation is determined for each individual project, depending on the current requirements and capabilities.
  • In general, flight stairs are the most common, safe and convenient, so if the space allows you to place them, feel free to look in their direction.

  • The second type of design is spiral staircases. You can’t even dream of making them on your own, without involving a craftsman and without the proper experience. Not only is it necessary to make quite complex calculations, but it is also necessary to verify the data obtained during assembly.
  • An exception, again, would be a modular factory design. Assembling it will be no more difficult than a marching one of the same type.
  • As for the design itself, it is used primarily where there is not enough space to install a flight of stairs. You can also give preference if the interior style requires it.
  • Spiral staircases are not so convenient to use, and they cannot be called safe. Therefore, they are preferred mainly by people with progressive views, but if you are used to looking at everything from the side of practicality, then, we are afraid, this option will not suit you.

  • Spiral staircases are also bad because it is impossible to move large furniture along them, which is why the ascent is organized through the windows of the upper floors. Take note!

The named types can be classified as the main ones, however, in addition to them, there are many combined options, such as those presented in the photo gallery above. Such solutions may change the parameters of the steps, the entire flight, the direction of bends, and much more that comes to the minds of designers trying to surprise their clients.

Iron stair frames

The frame of a metal staircase can be divided into two main components: the load-bearing supporting part and the fastening for the steps. In this case, there may not be a second part at all if, for example, solid wooden treads and risers are installed.

  • Stairs can be supported on stringers - inclined beams with corner platforms for installation on top of the steps.
  • There can be one or several stringers, depending on the planned design. Their appearance may also differ.
  • The most common are straight stringers, also known as welded corners, channels or I-beams, to which “L”-shaped supports for stairs are welded. This option is easier than others to install, however, it has the roughest appearance.
  • Stringers can be broken, that is, welded or assembled from pieces of a rectangular pipe. Outwardly, they resemble a ladder. These models look much lighter and more aesthetically pleasing, so they are perfect not only for industrial, but also for other modern styles.
  • Spinal stringers deserve special mention. These elements are similar to broken ones, but they represent a modular movable structure that can even be rotated if necessary. A photo of such a staircase is presented last in the gallery above.

  • The second type of support is bowstrings. More precisely, stringers are varieties of bowstrings, but this classification has already taken root. The difference between these elements is that when fastening the steps are not supported from above, but approach their sides, where the connection is made through bolts, screws, supports in the form of corners and other things.
  • There are always two bowstrings in a staircase, due to design features.
  • Their shape can also be different, firstly, depending on the material used, and secondly, due to the type of staircase itself (you can find straight, broken, bent, etc.).

  • The next version of the frame is metal bolts, or bolts, to put it in more understandable terms. These devices are specially designed for fastening stairs without bowstrings and stringers. With their help, the structure can literally “hang” in the air.
  • Despite the apparent flimsiness, such stairs are very durable and can withstand heavy loads.
  • The second thing that is deceptive at first glance is the apparent ease of assembly. To make such a staircase you need to have experience and a special tool.

  • The console mount is the most complex and expensive to implement. Here, along the way, you have to interfere with the structure of the wall, because such structures are often erected simultaneously with them.

  • Consoles are metal pins and platforms that go “rooted” into the wall. The steps are only held on one side.
  • To withstand all the loads, the consoles are made quite long, often extending across the entire step.
  • They can only be installed on strong walls that can securely hold the fasteners.

Analyzing the information received, we can say with confidence that in order to install an iron staircase yourself, it is better to choose the option with stringers or bowstrings. We will look at how this is done in the next chapter.

Assembling the stairs

Let's start by saying a few words about staircase design. Starting to build, especially from metal, without having drawings in hand is more expensive for yourself. The price of materials is not small, but you won’t have a chance to redo something again.

You can perform a simple calculation of a marching-type staircase yourself, or you can find on the Internet one of the many calculators in which you just need to enter the necessary data (such as span height, angle of inclination and number of steps), indicate the desired type of structure, click the “calculate” button and print finished result.

The idea of ​​contacting a design bureau will be the most correct, because professionals will take into account those features of your home that you are not even aware of, but be prepared to pay an extra penny for such pleasure.

Rectangular pipe stringers

Let's imagine that we already have all the calculations in hand, and all we have to do is complete the assembly. We will consider a rather complex version of a broken frame made of a profile pipe - an option that is not so common, but quite interesting and looks neater.

For work we will need the following tools and devices:

  • Smooth horizontal surface– a table that can be made from a single sheet of chipboard;
  • Clamps in the amount of one piece for each element of the stringer (riser and tread);
  • Measuring tools: tape measure, metal ruler, carpenter's square;
  • Sharpened nail or a special metal scriber with a pobedite tip;

  • Two Bulgarians(large and small) and metal discs of appropriate sizes.
  • Welding machine and electrodes for it.

The work begins with the installation of a table, the surface of which is drawn according to the obtained data on the height and depth of the degrees. The result is a lattice of identical cells, which will help us accurately measure and position workpieces.

So, we have at our disposal pipes with a cross-section of 60 by 80 millimeters, which need to be cut into pieces.

  • So, we cut the first piece at an angle of 45 degrees and attach it to the chipboard using a clamp. Fixation is carried out through holes that are drilled using a feather drill for wood with a diameter of 25 millimeters.

  • Next, take another part of the pipe, turn it over so that it forms an angle, and combine the parts. In this case, you need to set them up, focusing strictly on the lines on the chipboard.
  • As you can see in the photo above, the cut did not turn out perfect, which is why a fairly large gap formed on the outer corner. This must be corrected by sharpening the inner corner with a small grinder.

  • In order not to guess about the depth of the point, you need to use a ruler, with the help of which a mark is placed on the inner corner equal to the thickness of the gap, that is, a line is drawn parallel to the cut of the previous part.

  • Next, the pipe is conveniently laid on a flat surface and adjustments are made.

Advice! When sawing metal using an abrasive method, hot particles fly around the sides, so do not forget about safety precautions. Do not do this near flammable substances and materials; be sure to use protective equipment, such as gloves, glasses, a hat and thick long sleeves.

  • Repeated alignment of the workpieces shows that there is practically no gap left, which means that the welded assembly will be strong.

  • Now, having aligned everything along the lines on the chipboard, you need to mark the location of the second cut. To do this, we make a small mark with a nail at the base, turn the pipe over, and use a square to turn it into a line.
  • We know that the height of the pipe is 8 centimeters - this is what we need to step back towards the already sawn edge and move it to the bottom edge. We perform all manipulations with the same square.

  • After marking the indentation, we connect the corners with an oblique line, which essentially forms the diagonal of the resulting rectangle.
  • This marking method is very accurate, so it allows you to make virtually no mistakes when cutting.
  • The lines are placed on two sides and connected to each other.

  • The pipe is securely fixed with a vice, after which the workpiece is carefully cut. In principle, everything is simple and clear.
  • Next, the resulting segment is laid on our “stand” and fixed according to the drawing on a clamp, like the previous one. The entire stringer is assembled in this manner.

  • Having aligned all the parts in the desired position and double-checked this, you can begin welding.
  • We do it pointwise, as shown in the photo. As you can see, all corners are welded, as well as the central point in the oblique joints. You cannot weld the seam right away, since the stringer is highly likely to fail, and even rigid fixation with clamps will not save you.

  • Now we transfer the stringer to the sawhorses for ease of work and turn it over to the reverse side. Now we will weld the seams, but we need to do this wisely.
  • First of all, we make points at the centers of oblique lines on a horizontal plane.

  • Next, the horizontal seams are completely welded. This must be done according to a certain scheme, as shown above.
  • We start from the inner corner and reach the middle of the seam. Then we move in the opposite direction.

Advice! If you weld the entire seam at once, the stringer will turn out crooked, so take your time.

  • Then the same is done on the reverse side.
  • The corner seams are welded last.

  • After welding, all traces of it are carefully cleaned with a small grinder.
  • The stringers are ready for installation. They are mounted either to the beam, where there is an opening to the second floor for the stairs, or to intermediate platforms. We will not describe how these elements are assembled, since everything is very clear - horizontal beams are installed, which, if necessary, are supported by vertical posts. The connection to the wall is made using an anchor made from a piece of reinforcement.
  • Having installed the stringers, they begin to fasten the steps. In principle, you can do without jumpers if you use thick boards as treads.
  • The steps are attached via self-tapping screws from below. To do this, a large hole (about 16 mm) is drilled in the lower part of the stringer, and a small one in the upper part (so that the screw head does not pass through).
  • As a finishing touch, the stringers are primed and covered with a layer of paint.

The price for such a design will be quite low. Basically, you need two pipes of sufficient length. The look will be very neat, and it won’t take much effort to assemble, if you know how to weld metal.

As you understand, we have analyzed far from the only answer to the question of how to make an iron staircase to the second floor. There are a lot of options, and they will all differ in cost, strength and appearance. To get a better understanding, we recommend watching the video in this article. Best wishes!