Frame house roof assembly. DIY gable roof. Types of roofs erected over frame houses

There are many material options for building a private house on the modern market. The most common ones are brick, block and log. But lately, frame houses have become increasingly popular. They are characterized by simple and quick installation. You can do it yourself without resorting to the help of professionals. Below you will find recommendations on how to build the roof of a frame house with your own hands.

The roof structure is heavy and rests on the load-bearing walls of the house.. In the case of a frame house, the roof is installed on vertical posts covered with OSB boards up to the middle of the top frame beam. Decorative wall cladding is done after the roof is installed. And after this, the pediment and cornice overhangs are hemmed.

They are erected and sheathed before the roof is assembled. Therefore, before starting work, you need to prepare a project where it will be determined appearance roof and its slope. The pediment can be attached in parallel with the installation of the roof, but first you will still have to install the outer trusses, securely secured using braces.

The roof height of a frame house is usually more than 6 meters. Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of rafter system. Depending on the width of the span to be covered, the rafters may have a ridge board, a support screed or sloped braces if there is a central load-bearing wall. If the span is small, then rafter ties are usually installed. Attic walls can act as a supporting screed.

The rafters are secured using nails, self-tapping screws, metal plates or corners. The pitch of the rafters is determined within the range of 40 - 100 centimeters. This figure depends on the cross-sectional size of the wooden beams from which the racks are made. They can be within 2.5 - 5 meters.

Wooden blocks with a cross-section of 10x10 centimeters, called mauerlats, are laid on the external load-bearing vertical posts of the wall to support the rafter legs. A prerequisite for its installation is rigid fixation. It is best to connect the rafter legs using serrated overlays. If the overlapped span is more than five meters, it is necessary to install a special support under the rafters. After installation, the sheathing is installed to lay the roof covering. It can be made of OSB boards, plywood, edged, half-edged or unedged boards. This depends on the chosen roofing covering.

If there is an attic floor, the roof must be insulated. The insulation is placed between the rafters. Provided that its thickness is 10 - 15 cm, the cross-section of the rafters will be 15x5-15x7 cm. The cross-section of the rafters is selected according to the thickness of the insulation and the amount of snow load. To do this, calculations are made. If it is not possible to carry it out, then take a larger section of rafters. If the insulation thickness is more than 15 cm, rafters with a section of 20x7 cm are suitable.

When installing rafters on the mauerlat, a triangle equal to 1/3 of the rafter height is cut out in the support bar.

The roof may have one or more slopes. At the same time, a complex roof looks more interesting. But the best option, both in terms of the amount spent and the work carried out, would be two pitched roof. It does not have valleys and has only one ridge, which will be a definite advantage when building a roof with your own hands, since these places in the structure are the most vulnerable.

When choosing the slope value, it is worth considering that with an indicator of less than 28 degrees, the load on the rafter system increases. This will lead to the need for strict calculation and control of load-bearing elements. And with a slope exceeding 50 degrees, wind loads increase. The optimal choice would be a slope between 35-45 degrees. Such a roof will look better, and snow will not linger on it.

Roof installation

Let's look at roof installation using the example of a house with overall dimensions of 6x8 meters, a gable roof with a slope of 45 degrees, where bitumen slate is used as a roofing covering. The design includes an attic floor with a wall height of 1.1-1.6 meters.

The height of the walls of the attic floor should not be less than 1.1 meters. This will cause inconvenience during the operation of the under-roof space. In a cold attic, there is no need to raise the walls, and the roof structure will not change.

As a rafter system we will use two inclined rafter legs connected by a crossbar to ensure rigidity. It is also called a tie, jumper, cross member, etc.

The presence of an attic floor requires. Therefore, we will choose the parameters 15x5 cm as the cross-section of the rafters. And we will take the thickness of the insulation 15 cm (according to calculations for Moscow - 138 mm).

Next you need to decide on the length of the rafters. This can be done by making calculations. First of all, you need to decide on the angle of inclination. If you don't yet know which inclination to choose, follow the instructions below

Two slats 6 meters long need to be knocked together using nails in the shape of the letter “L”. This will clearly show what the roof truss will look like. The work is carried out on the ground. After this, it is worth preparing a test crossbar. It is a long strip that is applied to the rafters to measure its length.

After this, we lift the resulting truss onto the roof and rest it on the beam of the upper frame. Next, using the selection method, we determine the angle of inclination and, accordingly, the length of the rafters. When determining this parameter, it is necessary to take into account that the overhang of the rafters relative to the wall should be 30-55 cm.

The roof overhang is made to protect the walls of the house from precipitation. If there is no drain, the overhang should be at least 50 cm.

With this method of selecting the length of the rafters, it is necessary to take into account that the final height will be 5 cm lower due to installation on the mauerlat. To make such an installation, a rectangle of 5x5-5x6 cm is cut out of the Mauerlat bar for rafters with a section of 15x5 cm. And when trying on the rafters, it is necessary to mark where the support will take place and draw a vertical line. Thus, we will mark one side of the triangle, and mark the other on the ground at an angle of 90 degrees.

The pitch of the rafters is determined depending on the cross-section of the rafters and the roof slope. For the example under consideration, a step of 70-80 cm is best suited.

The next stage is preparing the required number of rafter legs. To do this, we use an already marked truss. This work should be carried out on the ground. We mark each subsequent rafter leg according to the first sample to prevent the accumulation of errors.

Then we proceed to fastening the crossbars. Best place for their placement - as low as possible. The crossbar is necessary to perceive the thrust, and the lower it is, the better it works.

In the presence of an attic floor, the best mounting height for crossbars is 2.25 - 2.35 meters. This will allow for doorways with a height of 2.1 meters. When reducing the height of the openings, the crossbars can be placed lower. But at the same time, the height of the premises will be correspondingly lower. To make the height of the premises equal to 2.5 meters, which is considered the most convenient parameter, the crossbars are made at an identical height of 2.5 meters.

The presence of a counter-lattice will provide a gap for ventilation in the roof. There should be two of them - a lower and an upper ventilation gap, each 2-4 cm high. This is done regardless of whether the roof is insulated.

The lower ventilation gap is made under the waterproofing layer, and the upper one is made above. They allow condensation to evaporate and prevent water accumulation. The presence of both ventilation gaps will ensure that the wooden elements do not become covered with mold or mildew.

The counter-lattice is attached to the rafters lengthwise. The pitch for them is chosen in accordance with the pitch of the rafters. The cross-section of the boards for these purposes is 2x5 cm.

Next we attach the sheathing. The size of the section and pitch will depend on the selected roofing material. According to the conditions of our example, this is . Therefore, we choose unedged boards for the sheathing with a cross-section of 4x5 cm. And we will install them in increments of 35 cm.

We select the length of the sheathing taking into account the presence of an overhang beyond the outer rafter leg of 20-50 cm. It can be equated to the overhang of the rafters.

Material selection

For roofing works undried wood is suitable (sometimes called wet wood). You can buy it at the sawmill. When choosing, pay attention to appearance. If the wood is gray, this may indicate the presence of fungus. Undried wood will require less financial investment than dried wood, since its price depends on the cubic meter rather than the square meter.

After purchasing, be sure to remove the bark from the wood - this will prevent the formation of bark beetles.

After calculating the roof elements, you should order the material. It should be borne in mind that standard lengths of lumber will cost less. And you can trim them yourself, using the leftovers for something else.

Rafters perform a number of significant roofing functions. They set the configuration of the future roof, absorb atmospheric loads, and hold the material. Among the rafter's duties are the formation of smooth planes for laying the covering and providing space for the components of the roofing pie.

In order for such a valuable part of the roof to flawlessly cope with the listed tasks, information is needed about the rules and principles of its design. The information is useful both for those who are constructing a gable roof truss system with their own hands, and for those who decide to resort to the services of a hired team of builders.

In device rafter frame For pitched roofs, wooden and metal beams are used. The starting material for the first option is a board, log, timber.

The second is constructed from rolled metal: channel, profile pipe, I-beam, corner. There are combined structures with the most heavily loaded steel parts and wood elements in less critical areas.

In addition to its “iron” strength, metal has many disadvantages. These include thermal qualities that are unsatisfactory to the owners of residential buildings. The need to use welded joints is disappointing. Most often, industrial buildings are equipped with steel rafters, and less often, private cabins assembled from metal modules.

In the matter of independent construction of rafter structures for private houses, wood is a priority. It is not difficult to work with, it is lighter, “warmer”, and more attractive in terms of environmental criteria. In addition, to make nodal connections you will not need a welding machine or welder skills.

Rafters - a fundamental element

The main “player” of the frame for constructing a roof is the rafter, which among roofers is called a rafter leg. Beams, braces, headstocks, purlins, ties, even a Mauerlat may or may not be used depending on the architectural complexity and dimensions of the roof.

Rafters used in the construction of gable roof frames are divided into:

Layered rafter legs, both heels of which have reliable structural supports under them. The lower edge of the layered rafter rests against the mauerlat or the ceiling crown of the log house. The support for the upper edge can be a mirror analogue of the adjacent rafter or a purlin, which is a beam laid horizontally under the ridge. In the first case, the rafter system is called spacer, in the second, non-spacer.
Hanging rafters, the top of which rests against each other, and the bottom is based on an additional beam - a tie. The latter connects the two lower heels of adjacent rafter legs, resulting in a triangular module called a rafter truss. Tightening dampens the tensile processes, so that only vertically directed load acts on the walls. Although a structure with hanging rafters is braced, the bracing itself does not transmit to the walls.

In accordance with the technological specifics of rafter legs, the structures constructed from them are divided into layered and hanging. For stability, the structures are equipped with struts and additional racks.

To support the top of the layered rafters, planks and purlins are installed. In reality, the rafter structure is much more complex than the elementary templates described.

Note that the formation of the frame of a gable roof can generally be done without a rafter structure. In such situations, the supposed planes of the slopes are formed by slabs - beams laid directly on the load-bearing gables.

However, what interests us now is specifically the structure of the rafter system of a gable roof, and it can involve either hanging or layered rafters, or a combination of both types.

Subtleties of fastening rafter legs

The rafter system is fastened to brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete walls through a Mauerlat, which in turn is fixed with anchors.

Between the Mauerlat, which is a wooden frame, and the walls made of the specified materials, a waterproofing layer made of roofing felt, waterproofing material, etc. is required.

The top of brick walls is sometimes specially laid out so that along the outer perimeter there is something like a low parapet. This is so that the mauerlat placed inside the parapet and the walls do not push apart the rafter legs.

The rafters of the roof frame of wooden houses rest on the upper crown or on the ceiling beams. The connection in all cases is made by notches and is duplicated with nails, bolts, metal or wooden plates.

How to do without mind-boggling calculations?

It is highly desirable that the cross-section and linear dimensions of wooden beams be determined by the project. The designer will provide clear calculation justification for the geometric parameters of the board or beam, taking into account the entire range of loads and weather conditions. If the home craftsman does not have a design development at his disposal, his path lies on the construction site of a house with a similar roofing structure.

You don’t have to pay attention to the number of floors of the building being constructed. It is easier and more correct to find out the required dimensions from the foreman than to find out them from the owners of a shaky self-built building. After all, in the hands of the foreman is documentation with a clear calculation of the loads per 1 m² of roof in a specific region.

The installation pitch of the rafters determines the type and weight of the roofing. The heavier it is, the smaller the distance between the rafter legs should be. For laying clay tiles, for example, the optimal distance between the rafters will be 0.6-0.7 m, and for corrugated sheets 1.5-2.0 m is acceptable.

However, even if the pitch required for proper installation of the roof is exceeded, there is a way out. This is a reinforcing counter-lattice device. True, it will increase both the weight of the roof and the construction budget. Therefore, it is better to understand the pitch of the rafters before constructing the rafter system.

Craftsmen calculate the pitch of the rafters according to the design features of the building, simply dividing the length of the slope into equal distances. For insulated roofs, the pitch between the rafters is selected based on the width of the insulation slabs.

You can find it on our website, which may also help you a lot during construction.

Rafter structures of layered type

Layered rafter structures are much simpler to construct than their hanging counterparts. A reasonable advantage of the layered scheme is to ensure adequate ventilation, which is directly related to long-term service.

Distinctive design features:

It is mandatory to have support under the ridge heel of the rafter leg. The role of support can be played by a purlin - a wooden beam resting on posts or on the internal wall of the building, or the upper end of an adjacent rafter.
Using a Mauerlat to erect a truss structure on walls made of brick or artificial stone.
The use of additional purlins and racks where the rafter legs, due to the large size of the roof, require additional support points.

The disadvantage of the scheme is the presence of structural elements that affect the layout of the internal space of the attic in use.

If the attic is cold and it is not intended to organize useful rooms, then the layered structure of the rafter system for installing a gable roof should be given preference.

Typical sequence of work for the construction of a layered truss structure:

First of all, we measure the heights of the building, the diagonals and horizontality of the upper cut of the frame. If we identify vertical deviations in brick and concrete walls, we eliminate them with a cement-sand screed. Exceeding the heights of the log house is cut off. By placing wood chips under the mauerlat, vertical flaws can be combated if their size is insignificant.
The floor surface for laying the bed must also be leveled. It, the Mauerlat and the girder must be clearly horizontal, but the location of the listed elements in the same plane is not necessary.
We treat all wooden parts of the structure with fire retardants and antiseptics before installation.
We lay waterproofing on concrete and brick walls for installation of the Mauerlat.
We lay the mauerlat beam on the walls and measure its diagonals. If necessary, we slightly move the bars and turn the corners, trying to achieve the ideal geometry. Align the frame horizontally if necessary.
We mount the Mauerlat frame. The beams are joined into a single frame using oblique notches; the joints are duplicated with bolts.
We fix the position of the Mauerlat. Fastening is done either with staples to wooden plugs installed in advance in the wall, or with anchor bolts.
Mark the position of the prone position. Its axis should recede from the mauerlat bars at equal distances on each side. If the run will rest only on posts without supports, we carry out the marking procedure only for these posts.
We install the bed on a two-layer waterproofing. We attach it to the base with anchor bolts, and connect it to the inner wall with wire twists or staples.
We mark the installation points of the rafter legs.
We cut out the racks to uniform sizes, because... Our bed is exposed to the horizon. The height of the racks should take into account the cross-sectional dimensions of the purlin and beam.
We install racks. If provided by the design, we secure them with spacers.
We lay the purlin on the racks. We check the geometry again, then install brackets, metal plates, and wooden mounting plates.
We install a test rafter board and mark the cutting areas on it. If the Mauerlat is set strictly to the horizon, there is no need to adjust the rafters on the roof after the fact. The first board can be used as a template for making the rest.
We mark the installation points of the rafters. For marking, folk craftsmen usually prepare a pair of slats, the length of which is equal to the clearance between the rafters.
According to the markings, we install the rafter legs and fasten them first at the bottom to the mauerlat, then at the top to the purlin to each other. Every second rafter is screwed to the Mauerlat with a wire bundle. IN wooden houses The rafters are screwed to the second crown from the top row.

If the rafter system is made flawlessly, the layer boards are installed in any order.

If there is no confidence in the ideal structure, then the outer pairs of rafters are installed first. A control string or fishing line is stretched between them, according to which the position of the newly installed rafters is adjusted.

The installation of the rafter structure is completed by installing fillets, if the length of the rafter legs does not allow forming an overhang of the required length. By the way, for wooden buildings the overhang should extend beyond the contour of the building by 50 cm. If you plan to organize a canopy, separate mini-rafters are installed under it.

Another useful video about building a gable rafter base with your own hands:

Hanging rafter systems

The hanging variety of rafter systems is a triangle. The two upper sides of the triangle are folded by a pair of rafters, and the base is the tie connecting the lower heels.

The use of tightening allows you to neutralize the effect of the thrust, therefore, only the weight of the sheathing, roof, plus, depending on the season, the weight of precipitation, acts on walls with hanging rafter structures.

Specifics of hanging rafter systems

Characteristic features of hanging type rafter structures:

The obligatory presence of a tie, most often made of wood, less often of metal.
Possibility to refuse to use the Mauerlat. A timber frame can be successfully replaced by a board laid on double-layer waterproofing.
Installation of ready-made closed triangles – trusses – on the walls.

The advantages of the hanging scheme include the space under the roof free from racks, which allows you to organize an attic without pillars and partitions. There are disadvantages.

The first of them is restrictions on the steepness of the slopes: their slope angle can be at least 1/6 of the span of a triangular truss; steeper roofs are strongly recommended. The second disadvantage is the need for detailed calculations for the proper installation of cornice units.

Among other things, the angle of the truss will have to be installed with pinpoint precision, because the axes of the connected components of the hanging rafter system must intersect at a point, the projection of which must fall on the central axis of the Mauerlat or the backing board replacing it.

Subtleties of long-span hanging systems

The tie is the longest element of a hanging rafter structure. Over time, as is typical for all lumber, it becomes deformed and sags under the influence of its own weight.

Owners of houses with spans of 3-5 meters are not too concerned about this circumstance, but owners of buildings with spans of 6 meters or more should think about installing additional parts that exclude geometric changes in tightening.

To prevent sagging, there is a very significant component in the installation diagram of the rafter system for a long-span gable roof. This is a pendant called a grandmother.

Most often it is a block attached with wooden pegs to the top of the truss. The headstock should not be confused with the racks, because its lower part should not come into contact with the puff at all. And the installation of racks as supports in hanging systems is not used.

The bottom line is that the headstock hangs, as it were, on the ridge assembly, and a tightening is attached to it using bolts or nailed wooden plates. To correct sagging tightening, threaded or collet-type clamps are used.

The tightening position can be adjusted in the area of the ridge assembly, and the headstock can be rigidly connected to it by a notch. Instead of a bar in non-residential attics, reinforcement can be used to make the described tension element. It is also recommended to install a headstock or hanger where the tie is assembled from two beams to support the connection area.

In an improved hanging system of this type, the headstock is complemented by strut beams. The stress forces in the resulting rhombus are extinguished spontaneously due to the proper placement of vector loads acting on the system.

As a result, the rafter system is stable with minor and not too expensive modernization.

Hanging type for attics

In order to increase the usable space, the tightening of the rafter triangles for the attic is moved closer to the ridge. A completely reasonable move has additional advantages: it allows you to use the puffs as a basis for lining the ceiling.

It is connected to the rafters by cutting with a half-pan and duplicating with a bolt. It is protected from sagging by installing a short headstock.

A noticeable disadvantage of the hanging attic structure is the need for accurate calculations. It is too difficult to calculate it yourself; it is better to use a ready-made project.

Which design is more cost effective?

Cost is an important argument for an independent builder. Naturally, the price of construction for both types of rafter systems cannot be the same, because:

In the construction of a layered structure, a board or beam of small cross-section is used to make rafter legs. Because layered rafters have two reliable supports underneath them; the requirements for their power are lower than in the hanging version.
In the construction of a hanging structure, the rafters are made of thick timber. To make a tightening, a material with a similar cross-section is required. Even taking into account the abandonment of the Mauerlat, the consumption will be significantly higher.

It will not be possible to save on the grade of material. For the load-bearing elements of both systems: rafters, purlins, beams, mauerlat, headstocks, racks, 2nd grade lumber is needed.

For crossbars and tensile ties, grade 1 will be required. In the manufacture of less critical wooden overlays, grade 3 can be used. Without counting, we can say that in the construction of hanging systems, expensive material is used in greater quantities.

Hanging trusses are assembled in an open area next to the facility, then transported, assembled, upstairs. To lift weighty triangular arches from timber, you will need equipment, the rental of which will have to be paid. And the project for complex nodes of the hanging version is also worth something.

Video instruction on the installation of a hanging category truss structure:

There are actually many more methods for constructing rafter systems for roofs with two slopes.

We have described only the basic varieties, which in reality are applicable for small country houses and buildings without architectural tricks. However, the information presented is enough to cope with the construction of a simple truss structure.

Roof installation is a complex multi-step process. To independently assemble and install a rafter system, you need to carefully study the methods of connecting elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If you don’t have the necessary experience, take on complex designs not worth it. The best option for a small residential building is a do-it-yourself gable roof.

A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat is a timber laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is secured using threaded steel rods embedded in the wall or anchor bolts. The timber must be made of coniferous wood and have a square section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. The Mauerlat takes on the load from the rafters and transfers it to the external walls.

Rafter legs- these are long boards with a cross section of 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The structure of their two rafter legs is called a truss. The number of trusses depends on the length of the house and the type of roofing. The minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum is 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, you should take into account not only the weight of the covering, but also the wind load, as well as the amount of snow in winter.

Is located in highest point roof and most often represents a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. The beam is supported from below by vertical posts, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards that are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

Racks are vertical beams with a cross section of 100x100 mm, located inside each truss and used to transfer the load from the ridge run to the load-bearing walls inside the house.

The struts are made from scraps of timber and installed at an angle between the posts and rafters. The side edges of the truss are strengthened with braces and the load bearing capacity designs.

Tie - a beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters, the base of the truss triangle. Together with the struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss and increase its resistance to loads.

A log is a long beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which vertical posts rest. Lezhen is used when installing layered rafters when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

The sheathing consists of boards or timber placed on the rafters. The sheathing can be continuous or with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always attached perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

If there is no more than 10 m between the external walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With this system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle and connected to each other using nails, excluding the installation of racks and ridge beams. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on the external walls. Due to the absence of racks, the attic space can be used for arranging an attic. Very often, the function of tightening is performed by floor beams. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the top tie at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

If there is a central supporting wall, the arrangement is more justified layered rafter system. A bench is laid on the wall, support posts are attached to it, and a ridge beam is nailed to the posts. This installation method is quite economical and easier to implement. If ceilings in interior spaces are designed at different levels, the racks are replaced with a brick wall dividing the attic into two halves.

The roof installation process includes several stages: attaching the Mauerlat to the walls, assembling the trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, and attaching the sheathing. Before assembly, all wooden elements are carefully treated with any antiseptic composition and air dry.

To work you will need:

timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
boards 50x150 mm;
boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
roofing felt;
metal studs;
jigsaw and hacksaw;
hammer;
nails and screws;
square and building level.

In wooden houses The functions of the mauerlat are performed by the logs of the last row, which significantly simplifies the work process. To install the rafters, just cut inside log grooves of the appropriate size.

In brick houses or buildings made of blocks, installation of the Mauerlat occurs as follows:

The mauerlat bars must form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. Finally, markings are made on the beams for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the beam.

When choosing a hanging rafter system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground and then install them above the floors. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the roof slope is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily blown areas it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, you should multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

Knowing the length of the purlin between the external walls and the angle of connection of the rafters, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often it is 4-6 m, taking into account the eaves overhang 50-60 cm wide.

The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlapping, end-to-end and “into the paw”, that is, with grooves cut out. Metal plates or bolts are used for fixation. Next, the lower and upper ties are installed, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the floors.

The outer trusses are attached first: using a plumb line, the rafters are aligned vertically, the length of the overhang is adjusted and attached to the mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. To prevent the truss from moving during installation, it is reinforced with temporary beams made of timber. After installing the outer rafters, the rest are set, keeping the same distance between them. When all the trusses are secured, take a board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer than the length of the cornice, and nail it along the upper edge of the slope. The same is done on the other side of the roof.

The first option: a rectangular groove is cut out on the rafter leg at the point where it touches the mauerlat, 1/3 of the width of the beam. Stepping back 15 cm from the top of the box, a steel spike is driven into the wall. The rafter is leveled, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is placed on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fastened to the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut with a circular saw, leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

Second option: the upper rows of walls are laid out with a stepped cornice of bricks, and the mauerlat is placed flush with the inner surface of the wall and a groove is cut out in it for the rafter. The edge of the rafter leg is cut to the level of the upper corner of the cornice. This method is simpler than others, but the overhang is too narrow.

Third option: ceiling beams extend beyond the edge of the outer wall by 40-50 cm, and roof trusses are installed on the beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and rest against the beams, secured with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width of the attic space.

Installation of layered rafters

Figure 1 shows the cutting of rafter struts into a beam laid on intermediate supports, and Fig. 2 - resting the rafter leg on the mauerlat

The procedure for installing a layered rafter system:

When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with fire retardants. Now you can start making the sheathing.

For the sheathing, timber 50x50 mm is suitable, as well as boards 3-4 cm thick and 12 cm wide. Waterproofing material is usually laid under the sheathing to protect the rafter system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid in horizontal strips from the eaves to the roof ridge. The material is spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are secured with tape. The lower edges of the film should completely cover the ends of the rafters.

It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the boards and the film, so first wooden slats 3-4 cm thick are stuffed onto the film, placing them along the rafters.

The next stage is covering the rafter system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the slats, starting from the roof eaves. The pitch of the sheathing is influenced not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the greater the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

After completing the installation of the sheathing, they begin cladding the gables and overhangs. You can cover the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated sheeting - it all depends on your financial capabilities and personal preferences. The sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters; nails or screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed with various materials - from wood to siding.

Video - DIY gable roof

Today, for the construction of a private house, there are quite a large number of material options on the construction market. Of these, the most common are wooden beams, concrete blocks, and bricks. Lately Frame houses are becoming increasingly popular due to the simplicity and speed of their installation. It is quite possible to build such a house with your own hands without the involvement of professional builders. And the roof of an erected frame house is considered one of the simplest structures.

In this article

Types of roofs of frame houses

There are several roof options for frame houses. The technology of its installation depends on the choice of roofing structure. There are two types of roofs most commonly used:

Flat. May have a slight slope.
Sloping. In this case, two or more slopes are installed.

In private housing construction, gable, hip, and hip roofs are most in demand.

The main function of roof slopes is to drain rain and melt water from the roof. Without them, water will collect on the roof surface, resulting in leaks and, consequently, failure of the roof structure. If the slope of the slopes is no more than five degrees, internal drains must be installed.
Flat roof structures are best used for frame houses built in regions with strong wind loads.
The flat roof of a frame house provides the opportunity to equip recreation areas and gardens. But in this case, its design must be as reliable as possible, so the ceilings are further reinforced. It is also necessary to equip a more powerful foundation and load-bearing walls of the house. Plus, a high-quality waterproofing layer is provided for a functional roof.
When used for a frame house attic structure roof, it becomes possible to arrange a living room in the attic. For this purpose, you can also install a hip roof.
Recommended for frame two-story houses After all, pitched roofs, which have a number of significant advantages over flat structures. For example, rainwater and snow in winter will not be retained on a gable roof, so the risk of water leakage into the frame house is significantly reduced.
It is quite difficult to independently make a roof structure for a frame house, so it is better to use ready-made roof trusses. This not only guarantees the installation of a reliable roof, but will also significantly speed up the construction process.

Arrangement of a reliable roof structure for a frame house

For frame houses, you can use almost any type of roofing structure. The roof height can be up to six meters or more. The roofing design option is selected depending on the size of the house itself and its design features. For frame houses, a rafter system made of wood is ideal, the design of which will depend on the type of roof.

The principle of installation of a roof structure

The rafter system is pre-arranged. To fasten the rafters, self-tapping screws, special nails for the roof frame structure, corners and metal plates are used. The pitch between individual rafters is selected depending on the size of the rack; it can range from 40 cm to 1 meter. The size of the spans is affected by the cross-section of the beams; they can be 2.5–5 meters.

The rafters rest against the mauerlat, which must be very rigidly fixed, and its cross-section is 10x10 cm. There are different methods of such fastening, but in this case, the connection of all rafter legs is carried out by serrated overlays. Supports are additionally installed under the rafters if the span width is more than 5 m.

The design of the sheathing will depend on the choice of roofing covering. For example, under flexible tiles A continuous sheathing is installed, for which OSB sheets are used. If metal tiles are used as roofing, then wooden beams are used, the cross-section of which is 5x5 cm. The installation step depends on the parameters of the metal profiled sheet, on average - 50 cm.

Materials used for arranging the roof of a frame house

The angle of inclination of the roof slopes is selected depending on the roofing used. So for different types coatings have their own slope range for their safe installation. Sometimes this parameter may be less or more. The angle of inclination of the slope accordingly affects the roof structure. For example, the sheathing can be installed very often, or a continuous flooring can be installed instead, good waterproofing can be installed, roofing sheets can be fastened more often, and other issues.

Slope slope options for different roofing coverings

12–60 degrees - for standard asbestos-cement slate;
12 degrees or more - for bitumen shingles (no restrictions);
20 degrees or more - for metal tiles (with high-quality sealing, up to 15 degrees is allowed);
20–60 degrees - under polymer-sand tiles (a greater slope is possible if the sheathing is reinforced);
25–60 degrees - under ceramic, cement-sand tiles;
10 degrees or more - for profiled iron sheets;
15 degrees and more - under ondulin (possibly up to 10 degrees in the case of reinforced sheathing and up to 5 degrees with continuous flooring.

Important! When using a pitched roof for a frame house, the installation of a powerful foundation is not required; therefore, you can save on consumables used for its arrangement.

For thermal insulation of roof structures, an insulation layer with a thickness of 10 to 15 cm is usually installed, more in rare cases. The insulation material is laid between the rafters and must be ideally suited in height.

If the width of the insulator sheet is less than 10 cm, then the cross-section of the rafters can be up to 10x5 cm (when calculating the minimum cross-section, the pitch of the rafters, the maximum possible snow loads, and other criteria are taken into account).

Take two 6-meter slats and fasten them together with a nail (you should get the letter “L”).
Next, at the required level, one batten is applied to the rafter truss blank, and the required length of the crossbar is measured.
The rafter leg blank is lifted onto the roof of the erected frame house, attached to the wooden beam of the top frame, the optimal angle of inclination is selected, and the length of the rafters and the angle of their location are changed accordingly.
The resulting length of the rafters is measured, and an additional 30–55 cm is added under the overhang behind the wall.

Important! The length of the overhang should not be less than 50 cm, since it must protect the windows and walls of the frame house from precipitation.

When using the above option for calculating the length of the rafters, it is also worth considering that after planting these elements of the roof structure on the Mauerlat, they will be 5 cm lower.

It is also worth understanding that the pitch of the rafters is the distance between the rafter legs. Its distance depends on the cross-section of the timber used to make the rafters, the area of the roof slopes, and their angle of inclination.

Example:

The parameters of the frame house are 8x6 meters.
The beam for the rafters has a section of 15x5 cm.
The slope is 45 degrees.

In this case, the rafter pitch will be from 70 to 80 cm, and with insulation of the roof - 60 cm.

Roof construction technology

Construction of the roof structure of a frame house begins:

From the marking of the strapping at the bottom of the structure.
Next, the structure is calculated and the parallelism between its individual elements is checked.
The diagonals of the wooden planks are aligned.

Installation technology (step-by-step instructions)

First of all, you need to strive to maintain the parameters of the roof frame structure specified in the projects. When building a frame house in a region with strong wind loads, the lower frame of the roof structure and the upper section of the outermost floor are connected with studs.
Installation of the ridge beam begins with the arrangement of two supports, which are fixed in the middle of the frame. They must be set clearly to the level; a cord is stretched between them, which is necessary for guidance when installing three intermediate supports. The ridge beam must be mounted clearly below the level of five support beams.
The length of the ridge beam is from 11 meters, it consists of 4 boards, the cross-section of which is 3.8x10x15 cm. Its height is about 25 cm.
The joints of the boards at the ends are moved apart. Next, every 2 m, logs are fastened together, for which they are used metal plates. The location of each individual element of the rafter system is marked (clearly according to the drawings).
The finished beam is installed on supports temporarily connected by boards. To prevent the rafter span from exceeding 2.7 m, they must be supported on each side against the intermediate wall.

Important! All rafters must be made according to a single template. And to obtain a flat roof surface, all boards that have a curvature are laid with a curve upward, then stretched to the wall (intermediate) and connected to each other with nails.

It is worth laying OSB boards with a thickness of 12.5–15 mm on the sheathing in a checkerboard pattern.
A temporary roof covering before laying soft tiles can be a roofing carpet.

Conclusion

Independent arrangement of the roof structure of a frame house is characterized by maximum simplicity, since it is possible to use various structural options. Such a roof is highly reliable, has a long service life, and if desired, you can freely convert the attic into a living space.

How to properly design the roof of a frame house? For these purposes, it is necessary to follow generally accepted rules, maintain installation technology and select the right material. Below are tips and recommendations for this work.

In frame house construction, two options for arranging the roofing system are used: flat and pitched. The first is applicable in regions where heavy snowfall is not observed in winter, the second is more widely used, and there are no special restrictions here.

hip;
gable;
hipped.

The best option for a house built using frame technology would be a pitched roof with two slopes. In difficult climatic conditions, it will not retain water or snow in winter, which reduces the risk of leakage. An interesting solution would be an attic roof with the possibility of equipping a living space in the attic space. But it is more complex in execution and requires more building material.

How the rafter system works

The quality of the roofing system is the key to the reliability and durability of the entire house. To do everything correctly and not create additional problems during the construction process and after, you need to follow some simple tips. First calculate total area roofing to know the amount of material. Decide on the cross section. Thickness boards for work depends on the complexity of the structure and climatic loads in the region. If a large amount of snow falls in winter, the roof is made from timber of the thickest section. You need to decide on the connection method. Considering these factors, it is better to entrust the work of roof construction to specialists.

The construction of a hip roof will be faster and with the best results if you purchase a finished structure. To do this, specialists are invited to the site, who, having calculated all the parameters of the roof, will manufacture load-bearing elements at the enterprise. You just need to assemble them correctly on site.

The roof structure in any form will be very heavy. Therefore, only the finished walls of a frame house can provide reliable support. By readiness we mean the vertical posts of the frame that have already been mounted and reinforced with jibs. Additionally, they are connected to each other by a beam of the upper trim, and sheathed on all sides with particle boards. The walls must also be of final readiness. They are also sheathed with OSB boards for greater strength. Only such a frame can be considered a reliable support for a roof of any complexity.

Attention! You cannot do decorative finishing before assembling the roof; all manipulations to create beauty are done after the system has been installed.

The main elements of the roof are the mauerlat, ridge, rafters and sheathing. There is only one addition to houses built using frame technology. The sheathing can be solid. Instead of laying boards, lining is used with the same OSB boards or sheet plywood impregnated with antiseptics to protect against moisture.

Structural elements

For those who are encountering this work for the first time, the names of some elements may be unclear.

Rigel

This is a horizontal element connecting the rafters. It is located as low as possible, but not below the ceiling level. It performs the function of a spacer, fixing and holding the rafter legs at a certain distance.

Counter-lattice

Provides air access to the sheathing. Regardless of the degree of insulation of the roof and whether the attic space will be residential, it is imperative to provide a couple of ventilation gaps and install counter-lattice. They are divided into two types: upper and lower. The former are used to ventilate condensation on the internal waterproofing, the latter on the outer part.

Horse

Supporting structure for rafter legs. It is made of timber with a section of 150x150 mm. These dimensions will allow you to withstand any load. Mounted on support legs and in a conventional gable design are located along the length of the slopes. To give additional stability, the supporting legs need to be reinforced with jibs.

Mauerlat

This is a beam mounted on the top trim. The rafter legs are attached to it. It is fixed using a bolt connection or steel wire.

Lathing

Basis for roofing material. When calculating the length, it is necessary to take into account that the maximum overhang beyond the outer rafters should not exceed 50 cm. According to technology, this determines the size of the rafters. The sheathing should not protrude beyond them.

Roofing technology

The first step is to install support logs for laying the ridge beam at the ends of the house. First, two are mounted, along the edges, supported by side jibs. A control cord is stretched between them to determine the installation height of three more supports. Thus, the skate will stand on five legs. This is the best option to make the structure more reliable.

Then the rafter joists are attached to the mauerlat and the ridge. To do this, a special cutout is made in the lower part of each bar, with which it will rest against the support. The rafter leg is pulled to the mauerlat as tightly as possible and connected with corner fasteners or nails. The edges of the rafters, pulled one to one, are fastened with bolts on the ridge beam (holes are first drilled for the connections). To reduce the thrust force exerted on the mauerlat and increase the strength of the structure, the rafters from below must be additionally reinforced with a crossbar.

On top of the mauerlat, with each rafter leg, an overhang board is fixed. Then the sheathing is filled. The boards that form the ridge fit together on all sides as tightly as possible. At this stage, it is necessary to take care of the ventilation gaps. A lining layer is laid on the sheathing. It is mounted on internal valleys, along the edges of the roof, at the ridge and near all places where water can leak: ventilation outlets, holes for chimney and etc.

Advice. To reduce the possibility of leakage through the lining material, the joints are sealed with tape, coated with bitumen mastic or special glue.

Now it’s the turn of the roofing material. If there are outlets for antennas and pipes on the roof, then it is necessary to purchase passage elements fastened along their perimeter, only after which it will be possible to lay the roofing covering.

Cornice filing

This is the final process performed at the very last stage of roof assembly. Before this, it is necessary to lay external insulation of the walls, because the lining box is located on top of it. To prevent excessive ventilation, which reduces the thermal conductivity of the walls, it is better to make the lining from wood. At the corners, the frame is sawed down at the required angle and fastened with wood screws. After this, it is sewn up with boards, in a horizontal or vertical plane.

Roof insulation

The material is laid both under the sheathing and on top of it. Internal insulation will additionally decorate the space between the rafters and make the roof warmer. This is relevant when assembling an attic system. But first, the waterproofing material is stretched. The slabs are laid between the rafters. For convenience, you can purchase material of the required width, since the modern market allows this. Along the length of the slabs, they are laid as closely as possible to each other, gluing the joint with reinforced tape. A vapor barrier film is mounted on top of the insulation. It is necessary to ensure that its connection does not come into contact with the insulation joint. The entire structure is hemmed with any sheet material. It would be better if you first soak it with antiseptics against rotting.

That's the whole roof assembly technology. Follow these recommendations, and you can do everything yourself, from laying the Mauerlat to sewing insulation into the sheathing.