Probably, the vast majority of owners of dacha plots and private country houses cannot imagine their lives without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. A bathhouse is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home “dispensary” that works to restore the strength and health of the owners, and provide the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular all the necessary communications, must be carried out according to all the rules.
One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its drainage and collection site. Disposing of contaminated, untreated wastewater onto the ground or into natural bodies of water is strictly prohibited, and such an approach will inevitably lead to penalties from supervisory environmental authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewerage system (as is most often the case), a special storage or drainage pit is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drainage pit for a bathhouse to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of arrangement work, follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.
Main types of drainage pits
Construction of any drainage pit is a rather labor-intensive process, since the pit will most likely have to be dug manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure is not very complex in design, so any owner of the site can build and equip it independently, without even involving assistants, of course, if there is enough strength for excavation work.
Drainage pits can be divided into three main types - a sealed container, a pit with drainage capacity, and one consisting of several chambers.
First, let’s figure out what each of the varieties is, in principle.
- A sealed drainage pit is most often installed on construction sites with shallow groundwater aquifers. It is more often called a cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying of accumulated volumes of dirty water.
To build it, a pit is dug into which a container of sufficiently large volume is installed. This is where wastewater will be collected. As the container is filled to a certain critical level, the waste is pumped out by a sewage disposal machine.
This option is environmentally friendly, since no contaminants or chemical cleaning solutions get into the soil and groundwater at all, which can negatively affect the condition of the fertile soil on the site, as well as have negative impact to high ground aquifers. However, this option is not convenient and economical, since you will have to constantly monitor the filling level of the container and quite often call specialized vehicles, and such services are not cheap.
Prices for septic tanks
- There is no hermetically sealed bottom created in the drainage drainage pit. It is used as a bulk layer of filtering building material - most often crushed stone or gravel is chosen for this purpose.
In addition, holes are often made in the walls of the drainage pit at a certain height through which water will be absorbed into the soil. This option is perfect for a bathhouse and is perhaps the easiest to build, however, if the soil characteristics on the site allow it.
- A septic tank is a whole system consisting of two or more chambers that have different purposes.
In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a sealed design and is used for collecting, primary filtration and purification of waste - solid components settle to the bottom, and liquid components are clarified and undergo a biological treatment cycle due to the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is connected to the second chamber with a special overflow pipe - clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle of a drainage well. Water passes through the drainage, is further purified and absorbed into the soil.
If a septic tank of three containers is planned, then the third chamber is made into a drainage chamber. The second serves for the final sedimentation of suspensions, deeper purification of water due to the action of anaerobic microorganisms. And from here the purified liquid is poured into the drainage well.
A septic tank is most often installed when it is intended to collect the entire considerable volume of liquid waste from both a residential building and a bathhouse.
What is important to know about the design and rules of septic tank equipment?
A septic tank is already a rather complex engineering structure, the creation of which must obey certain rules. Often home owners prefer to install a ready-made factory-produced system. What are the rules for setting up such a treatment plant, and what to pay special attention to - read in the special publication of our portal.
Materials for arranging a drainage pit for a bathhouse
Various materials can be used to construct bath drainage pits. Their choice directly depends on the expected volume of wastewater, the financial capabilities of the site owners and the convenience of construction.
Barrel drainage pit
To create this water drainage system, metal or plastic barrels of different sizes are used. However, such a drain can be arranged in different ways:
- First option. At the bottom of the excavated pit, covered with drainage material 300–400 mm thick - crushed stone or coarse gravel, after compaction, a barrel with perforated walls and a cut bottom is installed. In this case, it is taken into account that between the walls of the barrel and the pit there should be a space of at least 100 mm, which is also filled with drainage backfill.
A pipe is inserted into the barrel at the required slope angle, through which used water from the bathhouse will flow into the container. These drains will gradually seep into the drainage layer through holes in the walls and through the bottom, be cleaned, and then be absorbed into the surrounding soil. In some cases, drainage material fills not only the free space of the pit, but even the barrel itself, that is, water will flow directly into the drainage layers and then into the ground. This way the barrel will never fill up.
It must be correctly understood that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For a bathhouse that is used for its intended purpose once or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the most optimal options.
- Second option. In this method of arranging a pit, two barrels are used, installed at different levels - one above the other by about 200 mm. They are connected to each other at the top by an overflow pipe. Water from the bathhouse enters the first upper container, soap sediment and solid suspensions settle in it, and when it is filled, the water is poured into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are connected.
Outlet pipes from the second tank are laid in drainage trenches filled with gravel or crushed stone, through which water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moistening the soil. The trenches are filled with a layer of fertile soil on top, approximately 500 mm, and can be planted ornamental shrubs that will receive constant watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - draining water from the bathhouse and irrigating plants on the site.
This option for arranging a drainage pit will be discussed in detail below.
Brick drain pit
The walls of the drainage pit can be arranged using bricks, which are laid out with gaps - through them, water is drained into the drainage backfill and further into the ground. The difference between this pit and the first version, made from a barrel, differs only in the material, but the operating principle remains the same. A drainage layer is poured into the gap between the soil and brick walls, which will purify the water and distribute it throughout the pit, discharging it into the ground.
A pit made of brick is more durable and is designed to hold a larger volume of water. Moreover, if you dig a pit deep enough, and the bottom and lower part of the walls are sealed, then this structure can also be used to drain other waste, but in this case the pit will have to be cleaned periodically.
To build this version of a drainage pit, it is not at all necessary to use new brick - used material is also quite suitable.
Prices for metal barrels
metal barrels
Drainage pit made of concrete rings
If financial and technical capabilities are available, then a drainage pit can be built from perforated concrete rings, which are installed in a prepared pit. After installing the rings, a drainage backfill is arranged at the bottom of such a well.
In this option, the entire space between the walls, as in previous cases, is also filled with drainage material, so the hole, provided it is used only for bathing needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case, when the pit is deep enough and the bottom of the well is cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for a bathhouse, but also for a general one. True, this will require additional calculations, assessment of the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifers.
Pit made from old car tires
A drainage pit made from unnecessary car tires can only be used for liquid waste, so it is ideal for collecting periodically incoming water from a bathhouse.
Tires are installed in different ways: in some cases, holes are cut out in their side walls, in others, a small gap is provided between the slopes, in others, the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of operation of the drainage pit remains the same.
This option for draining water from a bathhouse can be called the most popular, since it is simple to install, affordable (tires are easy to find for free) and practical to use.
The numbers on the diagram indicate:
1 – Crushed stone or coarse gravel – drainage backfill, in a layer 250÷300 mm thick.
2 – Old car tires.
3 – Drain pipe from the bathhouse (there may be two of them)
4 – Crossbars for laying the lid.
5 – Cover or hatch.
Around the stack of wheels laid out, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a drainage cushion is backfilled, which allows you to retain and purify the water coming from the bathhouse. With good drainage capacity of the soil and periodic use of the bathhouse, the pit never overflows.
It should be noted that other materials that can withstand the effects of high humidity are also suitable for the construction of a drainage bath pit.
How to independently equip a drainage pit for a bathhouse
Inspection of the soil at the site of the planned drainage pit
In order for the bathhouse drainage system to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil in the area at the approximate depth of the planned pit. To do this, a trench or test hole is dug. So that the bathhouse can be used in winter time, the depth should be below the soil freezing level. Information about soil freezing in a specific area can easily be found on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring plots who have been using similar drainage systems for a long time.
Prices for concrete rings
Sandy soils and sandy loams, including those with rocky inclusions, have good drainage abilities.
But dense clay layers can cause problems. At high humidity, they are well saturated with water, swell, and become practically waterproof; when dry, they shrink. In addition, they are highly susceptible to frost swelling. These qualities of such soils are unfavorable both for laying and laying pipes in trenches, as they can lead to deformation and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.
Constructing a drainage hole in such soil, if it extends to great depths, is an almost pointless exercise. Well, if you have to lay a pipe through such layers to a drainage pit that reaches the depth of soil with high absorbency, then the bottom of the trench must be lined with a sand cushion 100–120 mm thick, which will prevent the harsh impact of ground vibrations on the elements of the drainage system.
The level of occurrence is also important groundwater(GWL), since the degree of absorption of water entering the drainage pit will also directly depend on this. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of the stable aquifer there should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the contaminated water will not flow well into the drainage, and such a well will soon turn into a fetid pit, as it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clay soils, the option of a drainage pit is not suitable. You will have to either install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize water drainage to special surface filtration fields.
Having chosen the material for constructing the pit, you need to decide on a few more important points its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system and the environmental safety of both the site itself and its inhabitants depend.
First of all, you will need to decide on the location where the hole will be located.
- Quite often, owners place a drainage hole directly under the building, but this becomes possible only if:
- the pit is equipped before the construction itself;
- the structure rises above the ground on a columnar or pile foundation, which will need to be well waterproofed;
— good ventilation must be provided under the bathhouse building;
- the sewer pipe connecting the bathhouse drain and the pit will require effective thermal insulation.
- If the pit is located separately, away from the bathhouse, then it is necessary to ensure that it is located at the required distance from the sources drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and commercial buildings, trees, the border of the site and the road passing near it. The required standards are shown in the diagram below:
- The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the bathhouse floor by at least 150÷200 mm, and the recommended distance from the bathhouse building is 3÷5 meters.
- If the drainage pit has to be located fairly close to the bathhouse structure, then:
- the bottom of the pit should have a slope of 20÷25 degrees, draining water from the walls of the building;
- perforation in the walls of the barrel, concrete rings or tires must be done on the side that will be located further from the walls of the bathhouse;
- It is very important to maintain the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that dirty water does not stagnate inside the channel, but immediately goes into the drainage hole, and there is no risk of freezing when using the bathhouse in winter. It is especially necessary to remember this in cases where it is decided to place the pit quite far from the bathhouse. The amount of required slope depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is clearly shown in the diagram below:
It should be noted that to organize the drainage of water from a small bathhouse without a toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is usually sufficient. In order to maintain the required slope, when digging a connecting trench, as well as when adding a sand “cushion” to it, you should control the difference in its depth using a building level.
Arrangement of a drainage pit - step by step
In this section of the publication, two options for drainage pits will be considered, which can be arranged independently.
Regular drainage hole
This version of the drainage pit has a design that can be made of various materials, which were discussed above.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | After determining the location of the drainage hole, you can proceed to digging a pit. For a bath drainage well, a pit depth of 2500÷3000 mm will be sufficient. It can have a round or square cross-section - it will depend on the chosen material for the walls. For example, if the pit is made of brick, then it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape from it, but in some cases a round well can also be built from it. The diameter of the pit should be 150÷200 mm larger than the prepared container. |
 | When the pit is prepared, a trench is dug from it to the bathhouse building at the required angle for laying the drainage pipe. The width of the trench can be 300÷500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of soil freezing in the area where the bathhouse is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well. |
 | The bottom of the finished pit is filled with medium-fraction stone - gravel, crushed stone, crushed brick or even broken slate. The drainage layer must be at least 300 mm, as it is designed to retain dirty water and purify it, that is, moisture must reach the soil by capillary action, which will allow it to be quickly absorbed. |
 | Next, they act differently. You can lay a sewer pipe right away, and then work on the brick walls of the water intake well, or you can first install or build a container, and as it is being built, a drainage pipe is inserted into one of the specially made holes. Most often, the pipe is laid at a time when the walls are brought out to the level of the depth of the trench, otherwise it will simply interfere with the work. |
 | So, the walls of the drain well can be built of brick. The laying is carried out maintaining a clearance between adjacent bricks in a row of 40÷50 mm. The wall can have a thickness of half a brick or one brick - this parameter is chosen by the builder, and largely depends on the amount of prepared material. Having raised the walls of the well by another 200÷300 mm, the space between the soil and brick walls is filled with drainage backfill. |
 | If concrete perforated rings are used to form the walls, then specialized equipment will have to be used to install them, since each of them has an impressive mass, and distortions must not be allowed during installation. After their installation, the distance between the soil and concrete also needs to be filled with drainage backfill. It should be noted here that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then you should not rush to install them in the hole of the sewer pipe wall, since under their weight they can sink somewhat into the ground - sometimes by 100-150 mm. Therefore, it is recommended to leave the finished concrete well alone for some time to shrink, otherwise the plastic pipe may crack or break due to the resulting pressure and tension. |
 | When using metal barrels for a pit, the bottom and lid are cut off, and the side walls can simply be cut using a grinder. The cuts are made at a distance from each other of 200÷250 mm horizontally and in increments of 100÷120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are placed one on top of the other. After installing the lower one, the free space around its walls is filled with drainage. After this, in the second of them, in the top, a hole is marked and cut through which a drainage pipe will be installed into the barrel. The hole according to the markings can be cut with a grinder, but an opening made with an electric jigsaw will still be neater. To do this, a hole is drilled at one of the points on the marked circle into which the tool file should fit freely. |
 | If plastic barrels are prepared for the drainage pit, then they are mounted in approximately the same way as metal ones, but quite often the drain pipe is connected through the top lid of the container. The bottom of a plastic barrel can also be cut off or several round holes with a diameter of 100÷120 mm can be cut into it. |
 | Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the side walls along the entire perimeter of the polymer container with a frequency of 100÷150 mm horizontally and vertically. Crushed stone or gravel is poured around the barrel and under it, into which, just as in previous cases, water will flow from the holes of the barrel, be cleaned and go into the ground. |
 | The most commonly used material for arranging a bathhouse drainage well is car tires, which are stacked one on top of the other. WITH inside At the edges of the tires, in three or four places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled, through which they are fastened together using, for example, plastic clamps. The sewer pipe can be connected between two tires. In this case, for support, bricks are installed along the edges of the plastic pipe and in three or four more places between the tires at the place where it passes, which will relieve the load on the plastic from the upper slopes. |
 | Another option for drilling the pipe is to install it in a hole cut in the side wall of the tire. When choosing this method, it is necessary to provide for possible shrinkage of the structure by cutting a hole larger than the diameter of the pipe by 70÷80 mm. |
 | Quite often, the drainage bath pit is not filled with drainage material around the barrels or tires, but is filled with it two-thirds - this allows the water to slowly flow to the soil walls and slowly be absorbed into them. |
 | It is recommended to strengthen the top of the pit with brick walls by constructing a concrete platform with a hole for a hatch. To do this, a formwork is built around the well, into which a reinforcing grid is laid, and then it is filled with concrete mortar, a layer 70–80 mm thick. |
 | After the concrete has hardened, a homemade cover made of a steel sheet and an angle is installed on the hole. Factory-made hatches, metal or plastic, are also quite applicable. |
 | Special plastic sewer manholes can have various shapes and linear parameters. So, when planning to install this particular option, the hatch is purchased in advance, and the top cover of the drainage pit is built according to its dimensions. |
 | A well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special lid made of the same material with a ready-made hole for a plastic or cast iron hatch. |
 | Well walls built from tires or barrels have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them with cement mortar mixed with crushed stone. If the drainage was filled between the walls of the well and the soil, then its top layer, 120÷150 mm high, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pit can be left in this state by simply installing a hatch on the hole, or a concrete platform can be built over the structure and then backfilled with soil. |
A pit based on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with access to a filtration field
The second option is more complex in design, but its functionality is significantly higher. This system is perfect for installation in areas with groundwater located close to the surface, since it does not require a deep pit. In addition, such a design can be a solution for organizing drainage outlet water from the foundation, from a storm well, filled from linear rainwater inlets on the site or their gutters on the eaves of the roof of the house.
To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such a hydraulic structure, you should consider this process in detail.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | For this system, two plastic barrels are used, which are easy to prepare for installation work and connect to sewer pipes made of the same material. Usually, for the drainage pit of a small bathhouse, two or three containers with a volume of 200÷250 liters are enough. |
 | The pit for installing barrels is also dug 100÷150 mm larger than their diameter, and due to the fact that containers of equal size will be installed at different levels, the pit for them should have a stepped configuration. The depth of the pit in this system should be 450÷500 mm greater than the height of the barrel. This distance will be needed to create a drainage cushion under the barrel and a recess for the pipe entering it. The difference in the installation level of the containers should be 150÷200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. The barrels are installed in one line. The bottom of the pit is compacted and filled with medium-fraction crushed stone, a layer 80÷100 mm thick, which also needs to be compacted. |
 | Next, you can move on to working on preparing the containers. The barrel installed above will serve as the primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. A neat hole is cut in its top cover into which the drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side from the hole in the lid, holes are cut for a pipe that will connect the first barrel with the second, installed slightly lower. To insert plastic pipes into the lid or into the walls of the barrel, you can find special flanges at a plumbing store, such as the one shown in the illustration. |
 | If not, then you will have to cut the hole with maximum precision, and then to seal it, use high-quality silicone sealant. |
 | Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installing a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40÷50 mm, or install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one outlet will be intended for connecting the sewer drain pipe from the bathhouse, and the other, vertical, for the ventilation pipe. |
 | The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the top lid, and two in the side wall, 100÷120 mm below the top edge. The axes of these side windows should be radially rotated from the axis of the central hole by 45 degrees. |
 | Nozzles with 45-degree bends installed on them are cut into the side holes and sealed. As a result, the pipes for connecting the drainage pipes will become parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration. |
 | Additionally, in the lower part of the walls of the installed second barrel, on the opposite side from the entrance, small holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled, at a distance of 150÷170 mm from each other. This is an additional outlet of water into the drainage fill around the barrel. However, if powerful filter fields will certainly cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic tank has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of a bathhouse, then this operation is not necessary. |
 | The result should be a design similar to that shown in the illustration. Having installed a system of barrels and pipes, you can proceed to creating a filtration drainage field. |
 | For the drainage area, which is located at a slope from the installed barrels, a trench is dug, having a width of 1200÷1500 mm and the same depth to which the first barrel standing above is buried. If desired, the drainage filter field can be extended over the entire area, since it will not interfere with the arrangement of beds for annual crops or for planting shrubs above it. A geotextile fabric is laid at the bottom of the resulting channel, on top of which drainage will be laid. Filling the trench with crushed stone is done in layers, each of which should be carefully compacted and distributed at a slope along pre-set pegs. The slope of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per linear meter. Pegs installed in advance with the required height difference will become a kind of beacons for the correct filling of the drainage layer. |
 | As drainage material is poured around the lower barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise external soil pressure may deform it. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls of the barrels with gravel or coarse sand, which should be compacted by pouring water. Next, pipes with perforated walls are connected to the nozzles, through which water will be distributed throughout the drainage area. Holes are drilled in increments of 150÷180 mm along the bottom and sides of the pipes. After drilling, the pipes are dressed in a filtering “casing” made of geotextile - so that the inside of the pipes is not subject to silting. |
 | The next step is to fill the pipes and the entire trench space with medium-fraction crushed stone mixed with sand. Such a layer should reach the lid of the barrel installed below, that is, completely cover the pipes from above with a layer of at least 100–120 mm. It is best to backfill several different layers of soil on top of the crushed stone. So, the crushed stone is first covered with geotextiles, on which a layer of moistened sand 70÷80 mm thick is laid, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. On this site it is quite possible to arrange a flower bed, plant annual vegetable crops or even small shrubs with shallow fibrous root systems. |
At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the yard among old supplies or even seemingly unnecessary trash, which in fact may well be suitable for building a drainage pit for a bathhouse. For example, you can find use for old sheets of corrugated or smooth slate, or even those left over after roofing works covering scraps of corrugated board.
Some inventive owners of country houses line the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles, which are filled with sand, find other very interesting solutions. Therefore, if you want to save money, and at the same time free up part of the yard or barn room from old materials, then you need to use your imagination “to the fullest” - and act! We will be glad if any creative master shares his innovations on the pages of our portal.
Another example of a simple drain for a bathhouse is shown in the video below.
Video: How to make a bath drain yourself at minimal cost
It is important to note that the sewage system in the bathhouse is designed to make the use of this room as convenient and simple as possible. However, in order for the bathhouse to only please you and not cause any inconvenience, you should carefully consider all stages of the work on creating a sewer system, study the advice of professionals and correctly assess your strengths. Let's understand the nuances of building a sewer system in a bathhouse with our own hands: a wiring diagram and a description of the installation stages will help you complete the job correctly.
Many owners begin developing a site by building a bathhouse. It could be a Russian steam room or a Finnish sauna, but in any case, it is necessary to provide for the laying of a water supply and build a sewage system in the bathhouse.
If you are thinking about how to make a sewer system in a bathhouse, we note that the work on creating a drainage system is not too complicated, but you must follow the instructions during the work process and take everything into account existing rules and tips that we will consider in the article.
Drainage type sewerage
There are certain nuances here that are important to take into account during the work process. First of all, you need to decide on the fundamental points:
- How should drainage be carried out?
- How deep does the soil freeze in the area?
- What is the soil like on your site? Does it drain water well?
- Will there be an additional bathroom installed in the bathhouse?
- Where should the drainage hole be located?
- How functional will the system be?
- How many visitors are expected in the bathhouse?
If the bathhouse is designed for not big number visitors, then a drainage-type bath sewer is ideal.
Stages of creating a sewer system in a bathhouse
Step-by-step installation guide for this drainage system:
- A drainage well is being dug next to the bathhouse. The dimensions of the well should be approximately one meter by meter, but if the bathhouse is designed for a large number of guests, then the dimensions of the well should be increased. You should also take into account the degree of soil freezing in the place where the bathhouse is located. If the freezing depth reaches approximately 60-70 cm or more, then the hole for the well should have a depth of at least one and a half meters.
- The bottom of the pit, the soil near the foundation of the bathhouse, as well as the trench should be waterproofed by laying a layer of clay mortar 10 centimeters thick with a slight slope towards the water drainage. It is necessary to smooth and level the clay well and give the trench the shape of a tray.
- The sewer well must be filled with expanded clay, crushed stone, gravel with sand or other material that has drainage properties. The drainage layer should be approximately 0.5 meters thick, that is, slightly above the soil freezing line.
Advice! If the well was filled with gravel and sand, it is important to periodically clean such a sewer. These two elements can not only let water through, but also become clogged with soapy liquid.
- The remaining part of the well is covered with earth, which is compacted tightly.
- It is also necessary to properly insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter.
Advice! It is very important to perform high-quality drainage, since if the technology is violated, the system will freeze, which means that frozen water will accumulate under the floor and in the pipes in winter. This will make washing in the bathhouse very uncomfortable. In addition, due to dampness, the floor will soon begin to rot.
If the soil on your site is sandy, instead of a well, you can dig a horizontal drainage pad to receive sewage. To do this, you need to dig a trench 1 meter long, about 30 cm wide and up to a meter deep.
The trench is filled with crushed stone or other drainage about 20 cm high, and soil must be filled on top. The drain pipe then leads directly to the pad.
Pit device
If the passage of liquid through the soil is weak, it is better to build a pit. In the pit, water will be collected until a certain level, and then through a pipe it will be discharged outside the site.
The pipe must be installed with a slope towards the wastewater outlet. As for the material, the sauna sewer can have a pit made of any material that will not allow water to pass through. The drainage design must have a water seal:
- A drain pipe inlet is installed at a level of 9-12 cm from the bottom;
- A plate is installed on three sides of the pipe, which is not fixed from below;
- There should be a distance of 5-6 centimeters between the bottom and the plate, where a water seal will form. This will prevent unpleasant odors from rising into the bathhouse.
Advice! When installing a sewer system in a bathhouse, it should be noted that for the installation of waste pipes it is best to use heavy-duty polyethylene pipes. This will allow you to connect to the sewer not only the steam room, wash room and dressing room, but also the bathroom if necessary.
In what cases is it necessary to install a septic tank?
If you are planning to install a permanent bathhouse, which will have not only a washing and steam room, but also a toilet, then simple types sewers cannot be used. Fecal wastewater must be directed to a septic tank. It’s not too difficult to build it, you need:
- dig a pit of the required depth, optimally if the bottom of the pit reaches the level of the sand or gravel layer;
- arrange formwork, lay reinforcement and fill the walls and floor of the pit;
- Place two containers in the prepared sarcophagus. The choice of container volume depends on water consumption. For a small bathhouse, these can be plastic barrels with a volume of 250 liters. For significant water consumption, you can purchase Eurocubes or ready-made plastic tanks of the required volume;
- one container must be sealed, the second must have perforations at the bottom and lower part of the walls;
- the perforated tank is installed 20 cm below the sealed one;
- the containers are connected by an overflow pipe;
- connect the pipeline from the bath to the sealed container;
- cover the septic tank with the installation of a ventilation pipe.
In the first container, the wastewater will settle, and when it enters the second, it will gradually be absorbed into the soil.
It is also necessary to pay attention to the flooring in the bathhouse itself. There are two ways to organize flooring in a bathhouse:
- Leaking floor that will not be attached to the joists. The boards are laid on the floor with gaps of 5 millimeters. And they can be dried at any time.
- When using a solid floor, it is necessary to create a slope. A tray is placed under the flooring in which water will collect. The water will then be transported to the pit.
Besides, drainage system implies mandatory wastewater treatment. The cheapest cleaning method is the septic method. It includes the following steps:
- Preliminary mechanical cleaning, which allows you to clean wastewater from sediment, lime and organic matter.
- Filtration biological cleaning. In this case, the filters are soil, wells or cassettes.
Organization of wastewater disposal system
If you have a bathhouse, it must have a sewerage system. But if you expect a lot of visitors in the bathhouse, then it is better to abandon the drainage system in favor of a more complex system for drainage and subsequent wastewater treatment:
- A hole is dug at a distance of half a meter from the foundation of the bathhouse to a depth of about 1.5. In this case, it is necessary to carefully consider the occurrence of groundwater. Dig a trench under the base of this hole, leading it out. At a distance of 2.5-3 meters from the bathhouse, a drainage well is dug, to which a trench will be drawn. The dimensions of the well should be approximately 2 meters. A shallower depth can cause water to freeze during the cold season.
- The trench and the well itself must be thoroughly coated with a thick layer of clay, and everything should be carefully leveled. If possible, the trench should be U-shaped. The clay must be placed with a slight inclination towards the water drainage.
Advice! If it is possible to use a public sewer for wastewater, this will be the best option. In some cases, you will have to obtain permission to drain the wastewater from the bathhouse into a ravine.
Note that the sewage system in the bathhouse with your own hands must be equipped with cast iron, asbestos-cement, concrete or ceramic pipes. Use wooden boxes or steel pipes should not be done, since they fail quite quickly, rot or corrode.
The diameter of the pipes should be selected taking into account how many visitors will use your bathhouse. It is also necessary to consider the installation of additional plumbing. However, the minimum diameter is at least 50 millimeters. Pipes should be laid with a slope below the freezing depth.
It is advisable that your sewer be equipped with a special drain, which can be made of stainless steel or concrete. The pipe must be raised 10-15 centimeters from the bottom, and the plate must be secured at a distance of 5 centimeters from the bottom, tilting it at a certain angle. This ladder will serve as a water seal.
Construction of a manhole
If your DIY sauna sewer system is too long, the system should be equipped with an inspection well with a diameter of about a meter. At the bottom of the well it is necessary to build a concrete pit. The walls can be laid with bricks or also made of concrete mortar.
During the cold season, the water in the well may freeze, so it must be equipped with two covers. The outer cover can be covered with sawdust and earth, and the inner cover can be made with an additional layer of heat-insulating material.
After completion of the work, the trench and hole inside the steam room must be filled with sand. Also, the well one meter deep and the outer part of the trench must be covered with sand and earth and everything must be compacted thoroughly. And, of course, do not forget to clean the well, since the pores of the soil will quickly become clogged with solid particles contained in the wastewater.
We hope that this article was able to answer all your basic questions, and you now have an idea of how to make a sewer for a bathhouse. Following these simple tips, you can handle creating a sewer system yourself. Of course, this will take a lot of time and effort, but a good result is worth it.
In simple village baths, they did not think much about sewerage. Wastewater simply went into the ground through the slatted floor. In modern private estates this has long been abandoned. Now, when building a bathhouse, the disposal of wastewater is carefully considered, observing all the rules in order to protect both the building and the site from the effects of wastewater.
What to consider?
In order for the liquid removal system from the bath to work effectively and for a long time, several rules must be followed.
- It is necessary to plan and install the sewer system at the stage of laying the foundation and arranging the floor. It is important to leave a hole in the base of the building for the outlet pipe, and before pouring the screed, dig trenches and lay the pipes.
- Even if you plan to steam and wash in different rooms, you still need to install a drain in the steam room. After all, after each bath procedure, this compartment must be thoroughly rinsed from a hygienic point of view.
- Since I most often use gravity-type sewerage in the bathhouse, when laying pipes it is necessary to maintain a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter. Floors should also be made with a slope towards the drain hole.
- If wastewater will be diverted from different rooms, then it is necessary to install a riser for ventilation.
- Where water enters the drain hole and enters the sewer pipe, there must be a water seal that prevents unpleasant odors from penetrating into the bathhouse premises.
SEWER. EXTERNAL NETWORKS AND STRUCTURES SNiP 2.04.03-85
In addition, when designing external sewerage, it is necessary to take into account 2 natural parameters:
- type of soil;
- depth of soil freezing.
The last factor is important to know when laying internal drainage pipes. This point for some regions of Russia is indicated in the table.
| Regions | Maximum depth of zero soil temperatures, m |
|---|---|
| Moscow region | 1,2–1,32 |
| Leningrad region | 1,2–1,32 |
| Nizhny Novgorod Region | 1,4-1,54 |
| Oryol Region | 1,0-1,1 |
| Novosibirsk region | 2,2-2,42 |
| Astrakhan region | 0,8-0,88 |
| Arhangelsk region | 1,6-1,76 |
| Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug | 2,4-2,64 |
| Sverdlovsk region | 1,8-1,98 |
| Chelyabinsk region | 1,8-1,98 |
| Saratov region | 1,4-1,54 |
| Samara Region | 1,6-1,76 |
| Omsk region | 2,0-2,2 |
| Orenburg region | 1,6-1,76 |
| Rostov region | 0,8-0,88 |
| Smolensk region | 1,0-1,1 |
| Tomsk region | 2,0-2,2 |
| Tyumen region | 1,8-1,98 |
| Republic of Bashkortostan | 1,8-1,98 |
| Stavropol region | 0,6 – 0,66 |
More detailed information taking into account the type of soil, as well as calculations are given in SNiP 2.02.01-83 and SNiP 23-01-99. If it is not possible to lay communications deeper than this mark, then the pipes must be insulated.
Let's take a closer look at the process of installing a system for removing and recycling wastewater from a bathhouse.
Internal network and its installation
The type of sewage system running inside the bathhouse depends on the type of floor. Today, concrete screed is most often made. Tiles can be laid on it or a slotted wooden floor can be installed on the joists. The gap between the floorboards in the latter case will be about 5 mm.
Note! For safety reasons, when choosing tiles, it is better to opt for a product with a rough surface that will not slip.
But, as mentioned above, before the floors are laid out and at the stage of laying out the foundation, it is necessary to begin the arrangement of the sewerage system.
Note! The sewage outlet from the bathhouse is made where the washing room will be located. It is in this section of the base of the bathhouse that a hole is left for the outlet sewer pipe.
All this must be taken into account in the design of the bathhouse and the drainage system from it, in accordance with which the entire sewage system is installed in stages. But first you need to prepare all the materials and tools.
What is needed for internal sewerage?
There are many materials for arranging drainage systems. For self-installation, it is important to choose products that are not only reliable, but also convenient during the installation process.
- It is better to purchase pipes for all wiring and fittings for them from plastic. For a bathhouse, pipelines with a diameter of 50 to 110 mm are usually used. Don’t forget about the riser pipe and fastening systems for it. If you have a toilet, you will need a tee to install it.
- As a water intake element in premises, it is better to use ready-made drains equipped with a water seal and protective grilles.
- You will also need sand to prepare the bottom of the trenches.
- Recommended purchase.
- Materials for connecting pipes and sealing all joints.
Tools you may need:
After preparing everything you need, you can begin installation.
Prices for sealant for sewer pipes
pipeline sealant
Laying the internal sewage system of a bathhouse
Step 1. Inside the bathhouse, trenches are prepared in the ground at least half a meter deep from the soil surface. The width of the ditches should be slightly larger than the diameter of the internal drainage pipes.
Step 2. Create a slope in the ditch towards the point where the sewage system exits the room. Check the angle using a construction hydraulic level.
Step 3. Fill the bottom of the trenches with sand and compact it. The layer thickness is 10-15 cm. At this stage, you also need to maintain a slope.
Step 4. Lay all the pipes. The horizontal pipeline should run 30 cm above the point of greatest soil freezing. It is recommended to insulate the pipes.
Note! The section of the pipeline running in the foundation is mounted using a metal sleeve.
Step 5. Vertical pipes are also installed, to which drains or a tee for the toilet will be connected in the future. To do this, sticks or metal pins are dug into the ground, to which the pipes are fixed. Length vertical pipelines must be taken with reserve. The excess will be cut off when installing water intakes.
Step 6. Install the ventilation riser. It is attached to the wall using clamps. The vertical pipe is brought above the roof or cut indoors and a check valve is installed at the top hole of the riser.
Step 7. While pouring the floor, drains are installed. If you plan to also lay tiles on the screed, this must be taken into account when installing water inlets. The screed should have a slope towards the ladder. The tiled or wooden covering is laid after the concrete has dried.
Step 8. If necessary, connect the washbasin and other equipment.
The internal sewage system is ready, but it is unacceptable to use it without connecting to external elements.
Wastewater disposal options and their implementation
There are several ways to dispose of wastewater after a bath:
- central sewerage;
- filtration well;
- cesspool.
Each of these options can be used under certain conditions and for different purposes.
This is the most convenient way to dispose of wastewater. To implement it, you must obtain permission from the service organization and enter into an agreement with it. An inspection well is installed at the connection point to the main line.
Since the services of contractors can be expensive, and during the registration process you will have to deal with the Russian bureaucratic system, to receive a small amount of wastewater, it is better to use other methods, for example, soil filtration.
This is one of the most popular options for draining wastewater from a bathhouse that does not have toilets. But it is feasible only in conditions of low groundwater level and permeable soil.
To implement this, you need to purchase a container without a bottom, for example, plastic pipe. It can be replaced with concrete rings and even old tires that are mounted on top of each other.
The construction of the well is carried out according to a simple scheme.
Step 1. Dig a trench for the pipeline, maintaining a slope to the site where the future well will be installed.
Step 2. They dig a pit at a distance of about 3 m from the bathhouse, the minimum area of which is 1 m2, and the depth should be greater than the freezing level of the soil. This will be the site for soil filtration.
Step 3. A bottomless container is installed in the hole.
Step 4. The bottom of the trench for the supply pipeline is filled with sand and compacted, not forgetting to maintain the slope.
Step 5. Lay the pipeline and connect it to the well. If necessary, the pipe is additionally insulated, for example, sprinkled with expanded clay.
Step 6. Filter material, for example, crushed stone, is poured into the resulting well. The height of the backfill should be slightly higher than the zero temperature point of the soil.
Step 7. Install the ceiling or neck with a hatch.
Step 8. Produce backfill well and pipes.
Periodically you need to check the condition of the filter media, and if necessary, change it or wash it.
If a lot of wastewater is generated, and in addition, a toilet is installed in the bathhouse, then it is recommended to install it to dispose of bathwater. You can also connect to an existing local sewage system. Moreover, the second option is much more profitable, since it does not require additional investments. But bath drains (their quantity) must be taken into account when choosing the performance of a septic tank.
cesspool
Since the bathhouse is not used every day, not too much wastewater is generated, one of the options for collecting wastewater is simple, which will have to be emptied periodically by calling a sewer truck.
A sealed catchment container is installed in a convenient place, and a pipeline coming from the bathhouse is connected to it. This method can be used where soils are poorly permeable to water and fecal contamination is present in the drains.
Sewage for a bathhouse, although it requires taking into account several nuances, can be installed independently. The main thing is to choose the right method for waste disposal, observe the slope for the gravity system and take into account natural features terrain.
Video - Do-it-yourself sewerage in a bathhouse
Trench for sewer pipeline (external)
Viega - drain with insulating flange, water seal, stainless steel grating, 100x100mm
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.
High-quality sewerage in a bathhouse is as important as a good steam room and a comfortable relaxation room. But there is often a situation when the developer, due to ignorance, makes mistakes, and as a result, problems arise during operation in the form of blockages and freezing in winter. To avoid this, carefully read this article, it contains the most useful recommendations, following which you can build a reliable system.
Workflow Description
I would like to immediately note that work must be carried out at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to break the screed or adapt to existing conditions. I will analyze the process as it should happen, and I advise you to stick to this option. If you do everything correctly, the work will not take much time and effort, and the result will be excellent.
Preparatory stage
This stage is carried out after you have poured the foundation, because it takes 4 weeks for the concrete to gain strength, and during this time you can do a lot of useful things so that the work does not stand still.
To begin with, I will present a diagram of the process, and below I will analyze it in more detail:
- You must draw a diagram and mark exactly where the drain holes, wash basin, toilet and other sewer elements, if any, will be located. It is important to clearly understand the position of all components, this will help calculate the length of the pipelines and their location, it is better to spend 15 minutes on the plan and see the full picture than to think about everything while working, in this case you can make mistakes;
- Next, everything necessary is calculated; special ladders with are used for drain holes in the floor. A riser is assembled at the location of the toilet, and a thin pipe is connected from the washbasin to the main line. In fact, everything is very simple, and if you have a detailed plan, then all you have to do is make a list of the necessary elements and calculate the length of the pipes;
You can contact a consultant at a plumbing store with the drawing, he will help you calculate everything you need or double-check your list, so the likelihood of miscalculations and errors is reduced to a minimum.
- When purchasing, purchase pipes with a small margin; if necessary, an extra piece can be cut off, but if you don’t have enough 5-10 cm, then you will not be able to solve the problem in any way. For the outer part of the system, which will be laid under a car driveway, it is better to use orange pipes; their price is higher, but they are more resistant to loads.
Laying communications inside the building
While the foundation is gaining strength, you can lay internal system. Generally used different sewerage in the baths - you can implement several options with your own hands. I will tell you about the most modern and most reliable of them. In addition, in addition to excellent performance characteristics, it is also easy to assemble, which is important for those who do not have experience in this field.
The work is carried out in the following sequence:
- Inside the building, dig trenches for laying pipes; their depth should be 70-80 cm. Try to plan the position of the pipes so that there is minimal amount turns and bends, as blockages most often occur in these places. It is important to dig trenches in such a way that when laying pipes, a slope is maintained, which should be 2-3 cm per linear meter;
- Next, a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom and carefully compacted and leveled. It is necessary to make the base reliable, then minimal load will be placed on the pipe connections;
- If there is a significant depression inside the foundation, then vertical pipes are installed at the level of the future floor location. Don’t worry that in fact the floor may turn out to be slightly higher or lower than the planned line - set them with a small margin and the excess can simply be cut off;
- As for connecting the elements, this part of the work requires a separate description: carefully inspect the sealing rubber bands for integrity and correct location in seat. In order not to damage the seal, lubricate the joints with liquid soap or at least moisten them with water;
- All the elements that will be filled with sand and concrete are laid out, the outer part is assembled afterwards, at this stage it is important to assemble the hidden part of the communications.
When pouring the foundation, you can leave a hole for the sewer by inserting a piece of pipe with a larger diameter.
If you don't do this, you'll have to drill a hole, which involves a lot of labor, so it's best to think about this aspect in advance.
Next, the space is filled with sand and a concrete screed is poured; I will not describe this process; this review is about something else. What you need to do at this stage is to accurately set the position of the ladders so that they are located at the desired level and the slope of the floor leads to them. If everything is done correctly, then the work can be considered successfully completed; all that remains is to install and connect the plumbing afterwards.
External part of the system
Let's figure out how to make a sewer system in bathhouses that are not connected to centralized system communications. That is, you need to build an accumulation system with your own hands; there may be several options, and each of them has its own characteristics.
But I'll start with laying pipes to the well, since this is a very important part of the process:
- The depth of the pipeline must be below the soil freezing level, in each region this indicator is different and can vary from 60 cm to two meters. The average figure of 120 cm is suitable for most regions, and many use it as a guideline when carrying out work;
- Again, a sand cushion must be poured onto the bottom of the trench. To ensure that the base is reliable and level, the slope is standard - 2 cm per linear meter, this is enough for the smooth removal of wastewater. Next, a pipe is laid on this base, all elements are carefully connected from start to finish;
- If laying a pipe to the required depth is not possible due to problematic soil or other factors, then insulation can be used. Insulation is carried out using special elements made of polyurethane foam, which are simply put on the pipe and perfectly protect it from freezing even at the lowest temperatures.
Pay special attention to the place where the sewer pipe exits the foundation; it is this area that most often freezes, so it can be additionally insulated by wrapping it in mineral wool.
Now let's look at the system for accumulating wastewater from the bathhouse. There are two main options: a storage well and a drainage system. Both options have their own characteristics, and I will talk about each of them. Let's start with the storage tank, its main advantages:
This option also has disadvantages:
- The need to periodically call a sewer truck for pumping;
- It is necessary to provide special equipment access to the well;
- The container can be filled with groundwater.
As for the workflow, it is simple:
- A hole is dug for well rings, their number can be from two to five depending on the volume of waste;
- Next, the elements are laid; if necessary, the joints are additionally sealed with cement mortar;
- A sand and gravel cushion is poured into the bottom and a concrete solution is poured in, as a result you get a sealed container from which wastewater will not leak out. A hatch is placed on top and the system can be used.
The drainage well has its own differences, as for the advantages, the following can be noted:
- Low cost of arrangement, you can use various available materials;
- Simplicity of work - below I will describe the process, and you will be convinced that there is nothing complicated about it;
- There is no need to pump out wastewater, which reduces the cost of system maintenance.
Among the disadvantages, it should be noted the need to replace the filter layer every 1-2 years.
Work on constructing a drainage well looks like this:
- First of all, you need to build a container; for this you can use either special well rings or wheels from a truck or tractor. Or you can even lay the structure out of brick; the photo below shows just such an option;
- Next, you need to pour a drainage layer of crushed stone in a layer of 30 to 40 cm, this is very important for filtering wastewater, and at this point the work can be considered complete. Be sure to cover the top with a hatch or other durable structure.
As you can see, the instructions for carrying out the work are quite simple, it is important to do everything carefully and reliably, do not skimp on the quality of the pipes, and the system will serve you for a very, very long time.
Simplified version of the sewer system
If you use the structure only in the summer, then a sewer system for a bathhouse with your own hands can be implemented in this way:
- A pit is built under the floor, this is the name of a recess 50-70 cm wide and 50-60 cm deep;
- The floor is made with a slope, and a grate or ladder is placed in the middle above the trench through which the water will drain;
- Next, the hole is half filled with crushed stone, it will filter the water and release it into the ground. The filtrate needs to be replaced once every 2-3 years.
Naturally, this option is only suitable for small volumes of water, and the system functions well only on well-absorbent soils.
Installing a bathhouse in your home requires the creation of appropriate utility networks. In particular, you will also need a sewer system in the bathhouse with your own hands - the diagram of which is quite simple. Usage standard scheme allows for uninterrupted operation. But for this you will also have to take into account a whole range of factors - the type of soil and its freezing depth, the dimensions of the sewer pipes, the number of people and the regularity of using the bathhouse, the presence of a central or autonomous sewerage system.
The easiest way to install a sewer system in a bathhouse is on highly absorbent soils - sand, crushed stone, gravel or pebble. Then it will be enough to build a drainage well. But if the building site has clay soils, then not a drainage well is made, but a pit.
When designing a sewerage system in a bathhouse, the size of the building and the volume of wastewater are taken into account, but the determining factor is still the type of bathhouse sewerage system.
Sewerage for a bathhouse with your own hands can be one of the following types:
Rules for gutter installation
Before you make a sewer system in a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to know that the floors in the bathhouse are made as dense and insulated as possible, and necessarily with a slope, directed towards the sewer grate. A gutter is placed under it - a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm or more.
Important: Suitable materials for guttering are asbestos, cast iron, concrete, ceramic or galvanized iron, but not steel or wood, as these materials deteriorate and corrode too quickly.
The gutter can also be mounted under a partition that will separate the steam room and the sink - in this case the partition is raised by 20 mm. As a result, water from the floor in the bathhouse immediately enters the pit or is quickly drained through a gutter into a sewer pipe, and then into a drainage well.
The sewage system under the bathhouse also includes another option for installing floors: installation on joists with 5 mm gaps between the floorboards.
Please note in the photo number 6 metal plate, which serves as a water seal and prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors into the bathhouse.
The main elements of the design of a sewerage system in a bathhouse
The classic implementation of a sewage system in a bathhouse with your own hands involves the removal of wastewater from all designated rooms - a bathroom, shower room, steam room and dressing room. When designing, the number of all main and additional rooms in which sewage may form is taken into account.
Important: If a toilet is provided in the sauna bathroom, it is necessary to disinfect the drains. If there is only a sink, then you can get by with a pit or drainage well.
- At each drain point or plumbing connection point a water seal is being installed so that sewer odors cannot penetrate inside.
- When choosing a material for the pipeline, the high temperature of the discharged liquid is taken into account, and therefore heat-resistant plastic is preferable.
- Inspection wells are installed at the junction of several pipes so that the system can be cleared of blockages at any time.
- Each drain hole must have a protective mesh to prevent debris from getting inside the pipe.
- Pipes are not laid near heating devices.
The location of the waste pit relative to other household objects and its dimensions are also regulated.. So, the pit is 500 mm away from the foundation of the building, it is 50*50 cm and 70 cm deep, and more than 2.5 meters should remain to the drainage well.
To install a drain well, you will need to create walls - these could be brick structures or ready-made plastic containers. The pit is removed from the bathhouse at least 3 meters, and it depth is below the freezing point of the soil. Land work includes not only preparing the pit, but also digging trenches for the drain pipe. Then the bottom of the prepared pit is lined with crushed stone, which will act as a natural filter. Its layer is within 200-500 mm.
For pipes laid in trenches, a sand cushion about 100 mm high is provided, as well as a crushed stone or sand backfill layer. A ventilation pipe must be attached to the well, extending to the ground surface at least 600 mm. A hatch is also required to be provided in the well ceiling, which is necessary for clearing the well of formed sediment.
If you implement a sewage system in a bathhouse with your own hands, in which bathrooms are provided, then on the site also provide for the construction of a septic tank. It can be a ready-made plastic container or reinforced concrete rings. For lightweight plastic septic tanks, it is necessary to fasten them with cables to a prepared concrete site. You can also fill a light septic tank with crushed stone so that the pre-filled water exceeds the backfill layer by 1/3. An additional filtration well can also be attached to the septic tank - this is especially important if the purified water will then be used for technical needs or irrigation.
Construction of a manhole
Sewerage for a bathhouse and its laying provide for the installation of an inspection well if the external pipeline is more than 10 meters long. Inspection structures are also installed in areas where pipelines branch, their differences, turns and connections. They are needed to carry out cleaning as needed.
The distances between inspection wells are regulated by standards - standard values depend on the diameter of the pipeline. When constructing a sewer system in a bathhouse, pipes with a diameter of less than 155 mm are used, and therefore inspection wells can be located every 35 m.
For wells, concrete rings or plastic containers are used, through which sewer pipes pass. Better to use concrete structures, since they qualitatively protect the most vulnerable sections of the pipeline. In addition, they do not in any way restrict the technician’s access to carry out inspections.
Installation of reinforced concrete rings involves making holes for pipes. Rings with holes already made are lowered into the trench, and then pipes are passed through them so that the joint is inside the ring. All joints must be carefully sealed, as well as the surfaces of the walls of reinforced concrete rings. In addition, the outer walls of the inspection well are sprinkled with a dry mixture of cement and sand in a 1:1 ratio.
You can make a linear inspection well on a straight sewer section or a rotary one, where the main line runs at an angle. In any case, concrete structures are complemented by a sewer hatch or cover - this provides easy access and protects against debris.
As an option, you can use ready-made plastic manholes - they are characterized by light weight, durability, and ease of installation. They are easy to install also because they already have pipes for hermetically sealed connection of pipes.
Do-it-yourself sauna sewer video
We invite you to watch a video on the topic of our article, which gives tips on how to install a sewer system in a bathhouse.
